Sticky White Rice

makes about 6 cups, serving 4 to 6

NOTE: This traditional Chinese cooking method yields sticky rice that is easy to eat with chopsticks. This rice closely resembles the plain white rice served at most Chinese restaurants.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Place rice, water, and salt in medium saucepan set over medium-high heat. Bring water to a boil. Cook, uncovered, until water level drops below top surface of rice and small holes form in rice, about 10 minutes.

2. Reduce heat to very low, cover, and cook until rice is tender, about 15 minutes longer. Rice is best served immediately, but pan can be taken off heat and set aside, covered, for up to 15 minutes.

FRIED RICE

Fried rice is a Chinese-American restaurant classic. It's also a dish frequently made at home in China. While both traditions start with leftover rice, they depart in their perspective on soy sauce. Fried rice in China is rarely made with soy sauce, while American restaurant versions often contain so much soy sauce that the rice is dyed brown. In addition to cooking questions—such as the temperature of the rice before frying it, the amount of oil, and the type of pan—we wanted to resolve the flavor issues that we uncovered in our research.

Fried rice should contain separate grains of firm but tender rice. We wondered what would be the best initial temperature for the rice—freshly warm from the pot, room temperature, or cold?

Freshly made rice produced the least desirable results. The individual grains did not separate, and they were overly tender and mushy. Room-temperature rice was only slightly better. Some grains separated, but overall the rice was still too soft and clumpy. Cold rice worked best in our tests.

Some sources suggest refrigerating the rice in a bowl. Others call for spreading it out on a tray for rapid cooling. The rice is then refrigerated.

We found that spreading the rice out on a baking sheet allows it to dry more quickly and better preserves its flavor and texture. Rice cooled in a bowl was stickier and less flavorful. The next day out of the refrigerator it did not feel as dry as rice that had been stored on a baking sheet. We did notice that rice cooled on a metal baking sheet could be stained brown from rust on the pan. Lining the pan with a clean kitchen towel prevents any discoloration. We also found that the towel absorbs moisture, which also creates more desirable dry rice. Rice stored this way is best used between 24 and 48 hours after cooking. It's also important to cover rice left this long in the refrigerator to keep it from picking up off flavors from other foods.

As an aside, we tested rice stored in a quart container from a Chinese restaurant. We had excellent results when we used this rice the next day. Our theory is that the standard heavyweight paper Chinese food container allows some air to penetrate into the rice, which facilitates its drying. At the same time, the container prevents the rice from picking up that hard-to-describe refrigerator taste.

With the preparation of the rice decided, it was time to start testing the frying process. The main issues were the type of pan (nonstick or conventional) and the type and quantity of oil.

A nonstick skillet consistently produced the best results. When using a regular skillet, more oil is needed, and even with more oil the egg (used in most fried rice recipes) may stick. If using a regular skillet, it's best to clean the pan after removing the egg and before continuing with the recipe.

Tests showed that even when using a nonstick skillet a substantial amount of oil is required. Oil is needed to scramble the egg, to cook the protein (we include recipes that use pork, chicken, or shrimp), and to cook and coat the vegetables. We ended up using close to ¹/₄ cup of oil, depending on the components of the dish. If you skimp on the oil, the texture of the dish suffers, sticking is likely, and the rice will be mushy.

We next turned to the issue of seasonings. Although soy sauce is the most obvious seasoning in the fried rice prepared at Chinese-American restaurants, we found that salt enlivens fried rice without overpowering other ingredients. We decided to make salt part of the master recipe and leave soy for a variation. Sesame oil, ginger, and curry are examples of seasonings that, when used in moderation, create interesting and flavorful variations; none of these was listed as an ingredient in the basic fried rice recipes we reviewed.

The final issue concerned the other main ingredients in fried rice—namely, egg, vegetables, and proteins.

Eggs are a must. To make sure the egg is perfectly cooked, we found it best to cook it first and to remove it from the pan before cooking the other ingredients. The technique of scrambling it over medium heat, using a wooden spatula to break it into small pieces, and cooking it until golden and aromatic yields pieces that will be flavorful and evenly distributed in the rice.

For a basic stir-fry, the choice of vegetables is simple. Tradition calls for scallions, peas, and sprouts, and we liked all of these ingredients. It took more time to figure out the order in which to add the rice and vegetables to the pan. When cooked first in oil by itself, the rice came out beautifully, each grain separate and the texture perfect. When the vegetables were added, though, the moisture they gave off caused the rice to soften and clump. We were surprised to learn that it's best to cook the vegetables first in a good amount of oil, which in turn lubricates the rice and facilitates a pleasing texture of all ingredients.

Our basic recipe contains only egg for protein. Most Americans will prefer one of the heartier variations made with shrimp, chicken, or pork. We found that raw protein, such as shrimp or scallops, is best cooked before the egg and then removed from the pan. The protein can be added back to the rice later, along with the cooked egg.

Although you can cook protein for the purpose of using it in fried rice, the beauty of this dish is its capacity for leftovers. For best results when using cooked protein, treat it like a vegetable. The protein and the rice will then be coated with oil and have the most pleasing texture.