STEAMED FISH

A STEAMED WHOLE FISH IS A CHINESE DELICACY. In the United States, though, whole fish can be hard to find, and most cooks lack the proper pot in which to steam one. We wanted to adapt this technique for fillets, making sure to retain the most prized qualities of a steamed whole fish: moist, perfectly cooked flesh that is lightly seasoned to enhance, but not overwhelm, the flavor of the fish.

We started our testing with salmon fillets and focused on the issue of equipment. In our research, we identified a number of possible steaming containers: a bamboo steamer, a collapsible metal steamer basket, a pasta pot with perforated insert, a glass pie plate, and a ceramic dinner plate.

We started our tests with a pie plate and heatproof dinner plate with a lip, assuming most everyone would have one or the other at home. Typically, the marinated or seasoned fish is placed on a plate and the plate then set on a rack in a wok or wide pot. Moving the plates in and out of the rather cramped Dutch oven we were using was a challenge. Perhaps more important, we found that fish did not cook evenly on a pie plate, which does not allow the steam to penetrate evenly through the fillet.

We next tested a pasta pot with a perforated insert. Removing the cooked fillets from this pot was challenging as well because there is not enough room to maneuver a spatula under the fish.

We moved on to a collapsible metal steamer basket, which many cooks have in their kitchen, and it worked beautifully. We found that a large basket, preferably 11 inches or more across, is needed to hold four fish fillets. You might get away with a slightly smaller basket when steaming compact salmon fillets, but longer, thinner pieces will hang off the edge of the basket.

Sticking is the other major issue. Fillets placed directly on the metal are hard to remove when done. Coating the basket with nonstick cooking spray works, but many traditional Chinese recipes place the fish on leafy greens instead. We tested napa cabbage, spinach, green cabbage, iceberg lettuce, bok choy, and chard. Owing to their sturdiness, the napa and green cabbage leaves worked best. The other greens tended to collapse during steaming, making it harder to remove both the fish and the greens from the steamer.

If each fillet is placed on a separate leaf, it is very easy to simultaneously remove both cabbage and fillet from the basket. The cabbage adds a subtle flavor to the fish, provides a bed to hold the juices of a marinade or cooking sauce, and looks appealing when served under the fillet.

We next tested bamboo steamers. Typically, a set includes two steamers and a cover. We determined that using one steamer at a time ensures even cooking; foods cook at different rates in the top and bottom steamers when they are stacked. We tried placing the steamer in the bottom of a large stockpot, in the bottom of a wide, straight-sided skillet, and on top of a narrower stockpot. All three setups worked, but we preferred the narrow stockpot; you can put a lot of water in a narrow stockpot pot without worrying about the water touching the fish, and, because you can put a lot of water in the pot, you don't have to worry about the pot running dry.

Up until this point, we had been steaming salmon fillets. With our steaming equipment chosen, we moved on to other fish. We found the cabbage leaf to be even more helpful when steaming thin fillets and flaky fish. In the end, you can use this method to steam almost any fish you like. Our tasters especially liked the results when steaming cod and halibut, although thinner white-fleshed fish, such as flounder and snapper, can be used if you fold the thin tails under to prevent overcooking.

Our final set of tests involved flavorings. Many traditional recipes call for marinating the fish before steaming, and we found this to be beneficial. Fish marinated briefly before cooking (10 minutes was enough) tasted better than fish steamed plain and then seasoned.

We like the subtle sweetness of rice wine (it was preferred over sherry, which tasters found too strong for white-fleshed fish) balanced with some soy sauce. A little minced garlic and ginger were welcome. Scallions and fermented black beans are traditional flavorings for Chinese steamed fish, and we like to add them to the fish just before turning on the heat to preserve their texture and color.

Some final notes on safety. Steam is very hot and can burn. The safest way to put a collapsible basket in the pot is to bring the water to a boil, then briefly shut off the flame while lowering it in (the flame should also be off when you remove the basket). Use oven mitts or a folded dry kitchen towel to hold the basket as you put it in and take it out of the pot. When it's time to test the fish, lift the lid at an angle away from you to release steam, and don't stick your face in the pot.