GRILLED VEGETABLES

VEGETABLES DON'T RESPOND WELL TO BLAZING fires—incineration is a real possibility. A medium-hot fire (you should be able to hold your hand five inches off the grate for four seconds) is ideal for most vegetables. A few, slower-cooking items, such as new potatoes, or particularly delicate vegetables, such as asparagus, are better cooked over a medium or medium-low fire.

Because even a cheap gas grill has enough BTUs to reach these heat levels, the type of grill used to cook vegetables is not very important. Delicate vegetables can pick up some resinous flavor from the cover, so leave it off. It is also imperative that the grate be scraped clean. Tiny bits of charred-on food cause flare-ups (which must be avoided at all costs when grilling veggies) and can impart an off flavor.

We tested various grill equipment designed for vegetables and found it best to cook vegetables right on the grate. (Hinged metal baskets are not practical because some vegetables will cook faster than others, and in these baskets everything must be turned at the same time.) Smaller items like cherry tomatoes or mushrooms can be skewered to keep them from falling through the grill grate. A vegetable grid (a tightly woven grid with handles) or piece of fine mesh can be set right on the cooking grate to keep small items and onions from falling onto the coals.

The following vegetables work best on the grill, all without any precooking. Toss or brush each vegetable with extra-virgin olive oil (other oils are too bland) before grilling and cook over a medium-hot fire unless otherwise specified. If you like, add salt and pepper, fresh herbs, garlic, and/or grated citrus zest to the oil before brushing it on vegetables, or try one of the flavored oils sold at supermarkets. Grilled vegetables can also be seasoned with salt and pepper just before serving.

ASPARAGUS: Snap off tough ends. Grill over medium fire, turning several times, until tender and streaked with light grill marks, 6 to 8 minutes.

CORN: Remove husk and silk. Grill over medium fire, turning often, until kernels start to char, about 4 minutes.

EGGPLANT: Remove ends. Cut large eggplant crosswise into ¹/₂-inch-thick rounds. Slice small eggplant lengthwise into ¹/₂-inch-thick strips; if you like, remove the peel from outer slices so they match other pieces (see figure 40). Grill, turning once, until flesh is darkly colored, 8 to 10 minutes.

ENDIVE: Cut in half lengthwise through stem end. Grill, flat side down, until streaked with dark grill marks, 6 to 8 minutes.

FENNEL: Remove stalks and fronds. Slice vertically through base into ¹/₂-inch-thick pieces. Grill, turning once, until streaked with dark grill marks and quite soft, 10 to 15 minutes.

MUSHROOMS, PORTOBELLO: Clean with damp cloth and remove stems. Grill, with gill-like underside facing up, until cap is streaked with grill marks, 8 to 10 minutes.

MUSHROOMS, WHITE BUTTON AND CREMINI: Clean with damp cloth and trim thin slice from stems. Grill on grid, turning several times, until golden brown, 6 to 7 minutes.

ONIONS: Peel and cut into ¹/₂-inch-thick slices. Grill on grid, turning once, until lightly charred, about 6 minutes.

PEPPERS: Core, seed, and cut into large wedges. Grill, turning once, until streaked with dark grill marks, 9 to 10 minutes.

POTATOES, NEW: Choose very small potatoes (no larger than whole walnut) and cut them in half. Grill on grid over medium-low fire, turning several times, until richly colored and tender throughout, 25 to 30 minutes.

TOMATOES, CHERRY: Remove stems. Grill on grid, turning several times, until streaked with dark grill marks, about 3 minutes.

TOMATOES, PLUM: Cut in half lengthwise and seed. Grill, turning once, until streaked with dark grill marks, about 8 minutes.

ZUCCHINI (AND SUMMER SQUASH): Remove ends. Slice lengthwise into ¹/₂-inch-thick strips. If you like, remove the peel from outer slices so they match other pieces (see figure 40). Grill, turning once, until streaked with dark grill marks, 8 to 10 minutes.