FRUIT FILLINGS FOR COBBLERS
While there is little need to thicken the fruit for a crisp or a betty, we found that cobblers are a different matter. The fruit usually cooks under a thick blanket of dough or pastry, so excess fruit juices cannot evaporate. Also, many cobblers are traditionally made with berries, which are quite watery. To keep cobblers from becoming a soggy, soupy mess, it is necessary to thicken the fruit.
For a natural, thin, silky syrup, we prefer cornstarch, arrowroot, or potato starch. Used in small quantities, we found it difficult to tell much difference among the three. Though they all worked equally well at unobtrusively thickening fruit juices, we recommend cornstarch because it is the most widely available. Flour turned the juices cloudy and tapioca can actually thicken the fruit too much and give it a jammy consistency. Neither is recommended in cobblers.
We found that each fruit requires a different amount of thickener based on its liquid content. At one extreme, apples and pears were so dry we ultimately added water to make them juicy enough. At the other end, sour cherries were too watery and demanded more thickener than other fruits. Soft berries (strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries, but not blueberries) need more thickener than fleshier fruits like peaches or plums.
As for sweetening, most fruits benefit from the addition of sugar, since they are too tart when baked without. Sweet toppings and ice cream only make unsweetened fruit seem tarter. We found that sugar is also crucial in thickening the fruit juices into a light syrup.
After extensive testing, we devised the following methods for preparing, thickening, and sweetening thirteen fruits for cobblers. Each preparation yields 5 to 6 cups of fruit filling. Adjust the sweetness according to the ripeness of the fruit and individual tastes. Different cobbler toppings contain different amounts of sugar. See individual recipes for suggestions on choosing the lower or higher amount of sugar listed in the fruit filling directions.
Fruits may be combined if desired. Adjust amounts of thickener and sweetener as needed. For example, to make blackberry-apricot filling, use 21/2 teaspoons cornstarch and about 1/2 cup sugar to balance differences between the two separate formulas.
Apple Filling: Peel, quarter, core (see figures 2 and 3), and slice thick 13/4 pounds tart, firm apples such as Granny Smiths. Mix with 2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 1/4 cup cold water and 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar.
Apricot Filling: Halve and pit 13/4 pounds apricots. Mix with 2 teaspoons cornstarch and 1/2 to 2/3 cup sugar.
Blackberry Filling: Rinse 2 pints fresh blackberries (or use 24 ounces frozen). Mix with 1 tablespoon cornstarch and 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar.
Blueberry Filling: Rinse and pick over 2 pints fresh blueberries (or use 24 ounces frozen). Mix with 2 teaspoons cornstarch and 1/2 to 2/3 cup sugar.
Cherry Filling: We prefer sour cherries, but you may substitute sweet cherries if sugar is reduced to about 1/3 cup. Stem and pit 13/4 pounds sour cherries (or use 24 ounces frozen). Mix with 11/2 tablespoons cornstarch and 2/3 to 3/4 cup sugar.
Mango Filling: Pit, peel, and slice thick (see figures 11–14) 3 pounds ripe mangoes. Mix with 2 teaspoons cornstarch and 1/3 cup sugar.
Nectarine Filling: Follow Peach Filling, substituting an equal amount of nectarines for peaches.
Peach Filling: Peel (see figures 4 and 5), pit, and slice thick 13/4 pounds peaches. Mix with 2 teaspoons cornstarch and 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar.
Pear Filling: Peel, halve, core (see figures 6–8), and slice thick 2 pounds pears. Mix with 2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 1/4 cup cold water and 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar.
Plum Filling: Pit and quarter 13/4 pounds plums. Mix with 2 teaspoons cornstarch and 1/2 to 2/3 cup sugar.
Raspberry Filling: Rinse 2 pints fresh raspberries (or 24 ounces frozen). Mix with 1 tablespoon cornstarch and 1/2 to 2/3 cup sugar.
Strawberry Filling: Hull and rinse 2 pints fresh strawberries (or 24 ounces frozen). Leave small or medium berries whole; halve larger ones. Mix with 1 tablespoon cornstarch and 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar.
Strawberry-Rhubarb Filling: Follow Strawberry Filling, using 10 ounces each fresh strawberries and stringed rhubarb (see figures 18 and 19) cut into 1/3-inch chunks.
OPTIONAL FLAVORINGS FOR COBBLER FILLINGS
The cobbler fruit fillings are delicious as is. However, they can be flavored if desired. Here are some of our favorite flavorings and notes on their use.
Almond extract: Use no more than 1/2 teaspoon per filling recipe. Works especially well with cherries and apricots.
Brandy and liqueurs: Use no more than 1 tablespoon per recipe. Fruit-flavored liqueurs, such as kirsch or pear brandy, can boost fruit flavor and are especially good.
Ground spices: Ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves may be added in varying amounts. Use no more than 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger or cinnamon per recipe; keep nutmeg and cloves to 1/4 teaspoon or less.
Lemon juice and zest: Add 1 teaspoon juice and/or 1/2 teaspoon grated zest.
Vanilla extract: All the fillings will benefit from the addition of 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. Nice but not essential.