ROASTING BASICS

ALTHOUGH ROASTS COME FROM A VARIETY OF animals, they are all cooked in the oven, often in a similar fashion. Many of the issues are the same when roasting turkey or goose, prime rib or leg of lamb. What's the best oven temperature? Does the roast need to be turned? Is a rack necessary?

There are two basic styles of roasting. What might be termed "conventional roasting" starts with a moderate oven—350 or 375 degrees are standard temperatures. The roast is placed in the oven and then cooked at that initial oven temperature until the internal temperature of the meat reaches the desired number. Although this method is easy, it does not take full advantage of the oven's capabilities.

Other roasting methods manipulate the temperature, sometimes using a combination of higher and/or lower temperatures. High-heat roasting (temperatures of 400 degrees and higher) promotes exterior browning, which builds flavor, crisps any skin, and makes a roast more attractive. But high-heat roasting can cause uneven cooking, with the temperature of the exterior layers of meat racing ahead of the temperature in the center of the roast.

In general, high heat is better for small roasts and birds (like Cornish hens) that need to brown thoroughly by the time the meat is cooked through. High heat can also be used at the beginning of the cooking time to brown a roast or at the end of the cooking time to crisp the skin on a bird.

Slow roasting, or low-heat roasting, relies on temperatures of 325 degrees or lower to cook gently and evenly. Lower oven temperatures allow sufficient time for the even conduction of heat from the outer layers of a roast to the center. The main problem with slow-roasting is that the exterior will remain quite pale, even after hours in the oven. Many slow-roasting recipes either begin by searing the meat (prime rib) or end by raising the oven temperature (goose).

EQUIPMENT FOR ROASTING

Roasting requires a few pieces of equipment. In addition to the list below, you will need a carving board and some knives.

INSTANT-READ THERMOMETER We recommend an instant-read thermometer over traditional meat thermometers that are inserted into the roast before it goes into the oven. An instant-read thermometer can be inserted into almost any food—everything from a roast to a custard for ice cream—and will display the internal temperature within seconds. Unlike traditional meat thermometers, instant-read thermometers are not designed to be left in the oven. Prolonged exposure of the whole unit to heat will destroy the measuring mechanism.

There are two types of instant-read thermometers on the market—dial face and digital. Though pocket-size dial face thermometers are less expensive than digitals, they are less precise, and most read temperatures in a narrower range. Our favorite thermometer registers temperatures from below zero to 500 degrees.

Another important difference between digital and dial thermometers is the location of the temperature sensor. On dial face thermometers, the sensors are roughly 1¹/₂ inches from the tip of the stem. The sensors on digital thermometers are usually located at the very tip of the stem. The former position means that the stem must be stuck deep into the meat or other food. A digital thermometer will deliver a more accurate reading in thin cutlets or shallow liquids.

There is one last factor to consider when buying an instant-read thermometer. In our testing of nine models, we found that some models responded in just 10 seconds, while others took as long as 30 seconds to record the correct temperature. There is no point keeping the oven door open longer than is necessary, so choose a fast-responding model such as the Owen Instruments Thermapen or Taylor Digital Pocket.

ROASTING PAN Roasting pans can cost $2 or $200, or even more once you start talking about copper. Most roasting pans are made of aluminum because it heats quickly. Some pans are lined with stainless steel, which is easier to clean than aluminum. We find that material is less important than size, depth, and weight.

You want a roasting pan that is large enough to hold a leg of lamb or country ham. A 13-by 9-inch baking pan is fine for a chicken, but you will need something considerably larger for most roasts. A size of 15 by 12 inches will work fine for most recipes in this book. (You will need a roasting or jelly roll pan that measures 19-inches long and 13-inches across to cook six Cornish hens at one time.)

In addition to size, you want a roasting pan that is deep enough to keep fat from splattering onto the walls of the oven. Since many roasts are cooked on racks, a shallow pan may prove problematic. On the other hand, a really deep pan will discourage browning. We find that a depth of 2¹/₂ inches is ideal.

We also prefer roasting pans with handles, which make it easy to lift them in and out of the oven. Lastly, you should consider buying a roasting pan with a heavy bottom. Some recipes end by placing the empty pan on top of the stove for deglazing. A thin pan may buckle or scorch, but a heavy-duty roasting pan with a thick bottom won't.

We know that many cooks rely on disposable aluminum pans for holiday roasts and birds. They are large and cheap and there is no cleanup. The downside is that these pans are flimsy and can fall apart. If you insist on using them, fit two pans together to support heavy roasts and birds. Also, try to buy disposable pans with handles and make sure to support the bottom of the filled pan when lifting it.

ROASTING RACK A rack keeps a roast above pan juices and grease, which helps prevent the exterior from cooking up soft or fatty. A rack also allows air to circulate underneath so the bottom of a roast can brown without burning or overcooking, which sometimes happens when a roast rests directly on a hot pan.

There are several types of roasting racks, each with a different use. A U-shaped basket rack cradles a chicken perfectly. In our test, we found that the perforated nonstick finish conducts heat better than other racks so that skin browns especially well. Basket racks are solid and stable, but too small to accommodate turkeys or geese. For these larger birds, a nonadjustable V-rack is recommended. Unlike adjustable V-racks, the nonadjustable version is made from thick metal bars, not flimsy wires. We found that this kind of rack stays put in the pan and doesn't bend when holding heavy birds.

Basket and V-racks keep birds well elevated from the roasting pan so that the skin on the underside browns well. In our tests, we found that a vertical rack doesn't lift the chicken far enough off the pan to brown the skin on the bottom end of the bird. A vertical rack also splatters fat all over the oven.

For other recipes, you simply need to keep the meat out of the rendered fat and juices. A flat rack is fine for prime rib, ham, or leg of lamb. Look for special roasting racks that are small enough to fit in most pans.