GELATO

GELATO IS ITALIAN ICE CREAM. ALTHOUGH the ingredients are similar to American ice cream, the results are surprisingly different. First of all, gelato is often made with flavors we rarely see in America. Hazelnut and the combination of hazelnuts and chocolate, called gianduja, are as common in Italian ice cream shops as vanilla or strawberry.

Of course, Italians make coffee gelato, but since coffee ice cream is a common American flavor we have not included this recipe. In addition to hazelnut and gianduja, you will find recipes for fig, amaretti, and cinnamon gelato in this chapter.

Besides unusual flavors, many American visitors to Italy are struck by the intensity of the flavors in gelato. Gelato should not contain a hint of hazelnuts or cinnamon, rather a strong jolt. Many gelato recipes use large amounts of flavoring ingredients, and some add liqueurs for a further boost. While American ice cream is often about the cream, gelato is about the flavorings.

There are several reasons for this difference. In general, American ice cream contains more butterfat. The additional fat coats our tongues and dulls the perception of flavors. While we find that American ice cream is best made with equal parts heavy cream and whole milk, gelato requires a lighter hand, with almost two parts milk for each part cream. The texture will be less indulgent and rich, but the flavors are more intense.

Another important difference is temperature. Gelaterias in Italy generally serve their product at a higher temperature than do American ice cream shops. Because cold dulls flavors, a higher serving temperature heightens the intensity of gelato. It also makes gelato less icy and helps counteract the lower butterfat content.

We find that gelato tastes best when served at 15 degrees, about five degrees higher than American ice cream. At this temperature, gelato will not be as firm as ice cream, and it should be eaten with a spoon (as it is in Italy) and not licked from a cone.