Minestrone

serves six to eight

NOTE: The rind from a wedge of Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano, brings complexity and depth to a soup made with water instead of stock. Remove the rind from a wedge of fresh Parmesan, or save the rinds from pieces that have been completely grated in a zipper-lock bag, stored in the freezer to use as needed.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Bring vegetables, tomatoes, 8 cups water, cheese rind, and 1 teaspoon salt to boil in a stockpot. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally until vegetables are tender but still hold their shape, about 1 hour. (At this point, soup can be refrigerated in airtight container for 3 days or frozen for 1 month.)

2. Add beans and cook just until heated through, about 5 minutes. Remove pot from heat. Remove and discard cheese rind. Stir in pesto or rosemary-garlic mixture. Adjust seasonings, adding pepper and more salt, if necessary. Serve immediately.

VARIATIONS:

Minestrone with Pancetta

Mince 2 ounces thinly sliced pancetta or bacon and sauté in 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in soup kettle until crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Proceed with recipe for Minestrone, adding vegetables, tomatoes, and water but omitting cheese rind.

Minestrone with Rice or Pasta

Follow recipe for Minestrone or Minestrone with Pancetta until vegetables are tender. Add ¹/₂ cup Arborio rice or small pasta shape, such as elbows or orzo, and continue cooking until rice is tender, about 20 minutes, or until pasta is al dente, 8 to 12 minutes. Add beans and proceed as directed.

VARYING MINESTRONE

Minestrone contains seven kinds of vegetables as well as tomatoes and cannellini beans. The aromatics—leeks, carrots, onions, and celery—are essential, as are the tomatoes. We like to add starchy potatoes, sweet zucchini, and leafy spinach, but these choices can be altered according to personal preference.

What follows are some notes on other vegetables that were tested in this soup. Bell peppers and broccoli were too distinctive, while eggplant and white mushrooms added little flavor, so none of these four vegetables is recommended.

When making substitutions, keep in mind that the Minestrone recipe has 2¹/₂ cups of solid vegetables (potatoes and zucchini) and three cups of leafy spinach. Use similar proportions when working with the vegetables below.

As for the beans, white kidney beans, called cannellini beans in Italy, are the classic choice. But other white beans can be used, as well as red kidney, cranberry, or borlotti beans, all of which appear in various Italian recipes for minestrone.

CAULIFLOWER: While broccoli is too intense for minestrone, milder cauliflower can blend in. Cut into tiny florets and use in place of potatoes or zucchini.

ESCAROLE: This slightly bitter green works well with white beans and pasta. Chop and use in place of spinach.

GREEN BEANS: Beans are a standard ingredient in French versions of this soup. Cut into ¹/₂-inch pieces and use in place of zucchini.

KALE: This assertive green can be overwhelming on its own, but it gives the soup a pleasant edge when combined with spinach. Remove ribs and chop. Use up to 1¹/₂ cups in place of 1¹/₂ cups of spinach.

PEAS: The delicate flavor of fresh peas is wasted in this soup, so use frozen. Add up to ¹/₂ cup in place of ¹/₂ cup zucchini or white beans.

SAVOY CABBAGE: This crinkly leaf cabbage adds an earthy note. Shred finely and use up to 1¹/₂ cups in place of 1¹/₂ cups spinach.

SWISS CHARD: This green is similar to spinach, with a slightly more earthy flavor. Remove ribs and chop. Use in place of spinach.

TURNIPS: The modest bitter edge of the turnip helps balance out the flavors of the sweet vegetables. Peel and use in place of potatoes.

WINTER SQUASH: Butternut squash is sweet, but in small quantities it is especially colorful and delicious. Peel and dice. Use in place of potatoes or zucchini.