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Figure 33.
Because they are thinner at the edges, salmon fillets do not cook
through evenly. We like the gradation from well-done at the edges
to rare in the center, but not everyone does. Steaks, which have an
even thickness throughout, cook more evenly, but are bony. However,
it is possible to turn a fillet into a steak. Start by cutting
through a 3-inch-wide fillet lengthwise down to, but not through,
the skin.