CORN CHOWDER

THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE IN MAKING CORN chowder is getting corn flavor. The sweet, delicate flavor of corn can be easily overwhelmed by the cream, potatoes, leeks, bacon, and other seasonings. At the outset, we decided to use frozen corn because it is available year-round and is so easy to work with. (We also developed a variation for fresh corn that can be used during the summer.)

Since broiling worked so well to bring out the flavor of asparagus in our Creamy Asparugus Soup, we decided to try this method with frozen corn kernels. As we hoped, the flavor of the chowder made with broiled corn was richer and deeper. We had worried that the application of dry heat might toughen the kernels as well as enhance their flavor, but they softened nicely when stirred into the soup. As an added bonus, we found that broiled corn kernels were less likely to fall apart after being simmered.

Having achieved the corn flavor we were after, we turned our attention to texture. Many corn chowders are too thick, even gluey. We tried eliminating flour and the step of pureeing the finished soup, but did not like the results. The soup was a bit thin, and the corn and the liquid did not meld. Next, we tried pureeing the finished chowder, but we didn't like these results either. The soup was too dense, and we missed the chunks of corn and potato.

We decided to thicken the soup without pureeing. Sprinkling two tablespoons of flour over the sautéed aromatic vegetables worked well, but the soup was still a bit thin. When we added more flour, the soup tasted floury. We had better results when we pureed some of the corn kernels before adding them to the soup kettle. The starchy pureed corn made the soup silkier and heartier without making it dull or gluey. At last, we had a corn chowder with excellent corn flavor and a silky, substantial texture.