VEGETABLE BASICS

VEGETABLE COOKERY IS GENERALLY QUICK AND easy. Even so, cooks are perplexed by vegetables. They wonder what is the best way to cook a particular vegetable and are often in desperate need of inspiration when it comes to choosing simple flavorings. This book addresses both issues.

In the pages that follow, we examine the 13 most popular garden vegetables. We started by testing all the relevant cooking methods and making some conclusions about which methods are best for that particular vegetable. From there, we offer master recipes that explain our preferred techniques along with plenty of variations so that you can produce vegetable side dishes that are interesting and varied.

As you will see, a number of cooking techniques are used repeatedly in this book. Here is an explanation of each method and its general pros and cons.

BOILING

"Boiling" means cooking in an abundant amount of boiling water, at least enough to cover the vegetables by several inches. When referring to vegetables, the term "blanching" (which means cooking in boiling water until partially but not fully done) is often used. If the water is salted (use at least ¹/₂ teaspoon of salt per quart of water) during boiling or blanching, the vegetables will be nicely seasoned. Blanched vegetables are often sautéed to finish the cooking process; this is also when more seasonings can be added. Porous vegetables, such as cauliflower and broccoli, can become waterlogged and mushy when boiled.

STEAMING

"Steaming" means cooking in a basket set over boiling water. It has similar effects as boiling, except that there is no possibility of seasoning vegetables with salt as they cook. Also, since the vegetables are above water as they steam, they absorb less liquid and don't become soggy.

BRAISING

"Braising" refers to cooking in a covered pan with a small amount of liquid. Often a braise starts with sautéing the vegetables in some fat before adding the liquid. Steam from this liquid cooks the vegetable through and eventually becomes a sauce that seasons the vegetable.

GRILLING

The intense heat of the grill caramelizes the exterior of vegetables and concentrates their flavors by driving off water. Vegetables should be brushed lightly with oil before grilling, and the grill surface should be meticulously scraped to prevent delicate vegetables from picking up off flavors. Vegetables should be grilled over a medium-hot fire—you should be able to hold your hand five inches above the cooking surface for four seconds.

BROILING

"Broiling" is similar to grilling. The intense heat of the broiler browns the exterior of vegetables and causes water to be expelled and evaporated. Lightly oiled vegetables should be placed in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet for broiling. Position the vegetables about four inches from the broiling element for the best results.

SAUTÉING AND STIR-FRYING

Most vegetables can be cooked in a hot pan with a little oil or butter. Sautéing and stir-frying are similar, especially since we find that a skillet works well when stir-frying on an American stove. (A wok is designed to sit in a cylindrical fire pit and is ill-suited to a flat stove.) In general, stir-frying relies on oil, not butter, and uses very high temperatures. We find it best to stir-fry in a very large (12-inch) nonstick skillet so that the vegetables can be placed in a single layer and will cook as quickly as possible. Sautéing generally occurs at more moderate temperatures. You may use a regular or nonstick skillet here. Sautéing is appropriate for eggplant, tender greens, peppers, cherry tomatoes, and zucchini.

There are several other cooking methods that can be applied to vegetables that we have not considered in this book. We tested many vegetables in the microwave. Although this controversial kitchen tool did a decent job in some cases, it was never our favorite method. Often vegetables cooked unevenly and dried out in spots.

We understand the value of roasting many vegetables. However, for garden vegetables we find that we want to cook them faster. Grilling and broiling yield comparable results—the exterior caramelizes and flavors are concentrated—and these methods seem more appropriate to warm-weather cooking.

Finally, we recognize how delicious fried vegetables can be. However, most cooks are looking for simpler, lower-fat preparations that they can use on a daily basis. For this reason, we have not considered frying in this book.