CAULIFLOWER

CAULIFLOWER IS VERY POROUS, WHICH CAN BE an advantage or a disadvantage depending on the cooking technique used. We found that boiled cauliflower, even when underdone, always tastes watery. Steaming is much better, producing a clean, bright, sweet flavor and a crisp-tender, not soggy, texture.

To confirm our sensory observations, we weighed cauliflower before and after cooking and noticed a 10 percent increase in weight when the cauliflower was boiled (the extra weight was all water) and no change in weight when the cauliflower was steamed. After steaming, cauliflower may be dressed with a vinaigrette or sautéed briefly in a flavorful fat.

A second option is braising, which takes advantage of cauliflower's ability to absorb liquid. We found that it is best to sauté the cauliflower first—browning intensifies the naturally mild flavor of cauliflower and adds a layer of sweetness—then add a flavorful liquid. Browned cauliflower takes well to aggressive seasonings, such as soy sauce, Indian spices, or even chiles.