Grilled Chicken Thighs or Legs

NOTE: Brining improves the chicken's flavor, but if you're short on time, skip step 1 and season the chicken generously with salt and pepper before cooking. Add flavorings or during cooking: Rub the chicken parts with a spice rub or paste before they go on the grill or brush them with barbecue sauce during the final 2 minutes of cooking. Serves four.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Trim overhanging fat and skin from chicken pieces; this will prevent burning. In gallon-size zipper-lock plastic bag, dissolve salt and sugar in 1 quart of water. Add chicken, seal bag, and refrigerate until fully seasoned, about 1¹/₂ hours.

2. Build a two-level fire (see figure 4). Set grill rack in place, cover grill with lid, and let rack heat up, about 5 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, remove chicken from brine, rinse well, dry thoroughly with paper towels, and season with pepper to taste or one of the spice rubs or pastes.

4. Cook chicken, uncovered, over medium-hot fire until seared, about 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Move chicken to medium fire; continue to grill uncovered, turning occasionally, until dark and fully cooked, 12 to 16 minutes for thighs, 16 to 20 minutes for whole legs. To test for doneness, either peek into thickest part of chicken with tip of small knife (you should see no redness near the bone) or check internal temperature at thickest part with instant-read thermometer, which should register 165 degrees. Transfer to serving platter. Serve warm or at room temperature.