BARBECUED RIBS

WE WANTED TO KNOW WHETHER IT IS possible to produce "authentic" ribs (the kind you get at a barbecue joint) at home. We started by cooking ribs—for us, this means pork spareribs—three different ways. One slab was cooked over indirect heat, one parboiled and then grilled over direct heat, and the third cooked on a rotisserie attachment to our grill—we were reluctant to use this unusual bit of equipment but, in the name of science, thought we should give it a shot. All three tests were conducted over charcoal with hickory chips in a covered grill.

The ribs cooked over indirect heat were the hands-down favorite. Those cooked on the rotisserie were not nearly as tender, and the parboiled ribs retained the unappealing flavor of boiled meat. While the indirect method needed some refinement, we were convinced it is the best way to cook ribs at home. It also came closest to replicating the method used by barbecue pit masters.

We prefer regular spareribs to either baby back ribs or country-style ribs (see figure 12). The latter ribs are leaner, and therefore prone to drying out, but the extra fat on spareribs helps keep the meat tender and moist during the long cooking process.

We tested a number of popular techniques for barbecuing ribs. Some experts swear by placing some source of moisture in the grill, most often an aluminum pan filled with water or beer. We filled a pan with water and put it next to the coals to create some steam. We couldn't taste the difference between ribs cooked with or without the water.

Next, we tested turning and basting. We found that for the even melting of the fat, it is best to turn the ribs every half hour. Turning also ensures even cooking. When turning, work as quickly as possible to conserve heat in the grill; don't leave the lid off and wander away to find a pair of tongs. Basting proved to be a bust. Tomato-based sauces burn over the long cooking time, and we didn't find the meat any moister after basting.

Under normal weather conditions, we found the ribs to be done in two to three hours. Signs of doneness include the meat starting to pull away from the ribs (if you grab one end of an individual rib bone and twist it, the bone will actually turn a bit and separate from the meat) and a distinct rosy glow on the exterior. Since the ribs require a relatively short cooking time, there is no need to replenish the coals. A fire that starts out at 350 degrees will drop back to around 250 degrees by the end of two hours.

At this point in our testing, we had produced good ribs, but they were not quite as moist and tender as some restaurant ribs. We spoke with several pit masters, and they suggested wrapping the ribs when they come off the grill. We wrapped the ribs in foil and then placed them in a brown paper bag to trap any escaping steam. After an hour, we unwrapped the ribs and couldn't believe the difference. The flavor, which was great straight off the grill, was the same, but the texture was markedly improved. The wrapped ribs literally fell off the bone.

We spoke with several food scientists who explained that as the ribs rest, the juices are evenly distributed back through the meat and the resulting ribs are more moist and more tender. In fact, our ribs are so flavorful and tender that we consider sauce optional.