LATKES

LATKES ARE THICK, GRATED POTATO PANCAKES that are pan-fried in vegetable oil. They should be golden and very crisp on the exterior, creamy and moist on the interior.

We tested russets, red potatoes, and Yukon Golds. The russet potato pancakes had a pleasantly pronounced potato flavor and dry texture. The red potato pancakes were at the other end of the spectrum; very creamy, almost gluey on the side. The Yukon Gold pancakes were an attractive yellow-gold color, tasted somewhat sweet and mild, and were creamy in texture but not gluey at all. The pancakes made with Yukon Gold potatoes were deemed the best, followed closely by the pancakes made with the russets.

In our tests, we found that most latke recipes produce pancakes that are either thick and creamy or thin and crisp. We wanted a thick pancake with a creamy center, but the exterior had to be lacy and crisp

Shredded potatoes make latkes that are very crisp and lacy on the exterior. For a creamier interior, we found it best to grind the potatoes to a coarse puree. We decided to use both shredded and more finely grated potatoes. We simply took some of the shredded potatoes out of the food processor and pulsed those remaining (with the onion added) until pretty fine. This two-step procedure gave us the best of both worlds: latkes with an exterior that cooked up crisp because of the larger shred and an interior that was thick and chewy, like a traditional pancake.

Many recipes use a lot of flour or matzo meal as a binder. These starches help soak up some of the moisture the cut potatoes exude. Unfortunately, starches can make latkes heavy. We decide to press out some of the moisture by hand and then lightly bind the potatoes with the starch that settles to the bottom of the bowl filled with the potato water.

We found the temperature of the oil to be crucial to frying the perfect latkes. Unfortunately, there's not enough oil in the pan to use a thermometer. Instead, you must look for visual clues. When the oil is hot enough for frying, it will shimmer on the surface and look kind of wavy.