GRILLING BASICS

GRILLING IS THE QUICK-COOKING (OR SEARING) of foods over an open fire. Grilled foods are fairly thin so that they can cook through over a hot fire without causing the exterior to char. Larger cuts, such as roasts or whole birds, can be cooked over an open fire, but they require lower cooking temperatures and longer cooking times, as well as the use of indirect heat and the cover. Although many cooks call this grilling, a turkey or brisket is technically barbecued or grill-roasted. True grilling, which is the subject of this book, is hotter and faster.

Grilling is not a science. Fire is a living, changing entity that requires constant attention and rapid response to current conditions. Gas grills deliver consistent results but often sacrifice intensity in the process. (See information on using a gas grill.) Charcoal fires do a better job of searing and browning. We also find that charcoal-grilled foods taste better. Adding up all the pluses and minuses, we think that working with a live charcoal fire is worth the effort.

All the recipes in this book were tested on a kettle-style grill using hardwood lump charcoal (see figure 1). During the hundreds of hours we spent cooking outdoors to produce this book, we developed the following guidelines for optimum results when grilling.

USE A KETTLE GRILL. We find that a round kettle-style grill is the best all-purpose choice for outdoor cooking. The large cooking grate (usually at least 16 inches across and often as much as 22 inches in diameter) allows you to prepare a good amount of food at one time. Also, the deep kettle holds a lot of charcoal so you can build a big, hot fire.

USE ENOUGH CHARCOAL. Many cooks stint on the fuel when grilling and never get the temperature high enough. There's no point spending $30 on steaks and then steaming them over an inadequate fire. The size of your grill, the amount of food being cooked, and the desired intensity of the fire are all factors in deciding how much charcoal to use. In the end, you want a fire that is slightly larger than the space on the cooking grate occupied by food. Remember that you can always let the fire die down a bit if the heat is too intense. It's possible to add more charcoal if the fire is too weak, but this involves lifting up the hot cooking grate, which is awkward and inconvenient.

For most jobs, we light one chimney full of charcoal. When the coals are well lit and covered with gray ash, we dump them on the grill bottom and add the rest of the charcoal (see figure 2). Five pounds of charcoal (or more when a blazing hot fire is needed for cooking steaks) is not an unreasonable amount.

BUILD THE RIGHT KIND OF FIRE. There are two basic types of charcoal fires you can build in a grill. When the coals are lit, they may be spread out evenly across the bottom of the grill (see figure 3). A single-level fire delivers even heat across the cooking grate, usually at a moderate temperature because the coals are fairly distant from the cooking grate. We cook vegetables and shrimp over this kind of fire.

A second option, one that we employ in most instances, is a two-level fire. Once the coals are lit, some of the coals should be raked off the pile and spread out in a single layer across half the grill bottom. The remaining coals stay piled up on the other side of the grill so that they are closer to the cooking grate (see figure 4).

There are several advantages to a two-level fire. The heat above the pile of coals is quite hot, perfect for searing. The heat above the single layer of coals is less intense, perfect for cooking thicker foods once they are well browned. This cooler part of the fire also comes in handy if flames engulf food. Simply drag the food to the cooler part of the grill and the fire will usually subside.

TAKE THE FIRE'S TEMPERATURE. Different foods require different heat intensities. To gauge the temperature of the fire, hold your hand 5 inches above the cooking grate and use the timing in figure 5 to determine the heat level. If the fire is not hot enough, add more charcoal. If the fire is too hot, wait for the heat to dissipate a bit.

GET THE RIGHT TOOLS. Many grill manufacturers produce sets of long-handled tools for use with the grill. We prefer less expensive, sturdier tools such as a long-handled fork, a spring-loaded tongs, a dogleg metal spatula, a paintbrush, and a wire brush for cleaning the grill (see figure 8). Some grill grids have hinged sections that make it much easier to add charcoal to the fire during cooking (see figure 6). If you have a choice, buy a grill with this feature.

DON'T USE THE COVER. Over time, soot and resinous compounds can build up on the inside of a kettle grill cover. For this reason, we don't use the cover when grilling since we find that the cover often imparts a slightly "off" taste, which we can best described as resembling the odor of stale smoke. We prefer to use a disposable aluminum roasting or pie pan to cover foods that require some buildup of heat to cook them through.

THICKER IS OFTEN BETTER. In general, moderately thick steaks, fish fillets, and chops are easier to grill because they will be well seared by the time the inside is properly cooked. Very thin steaks, chops, and fish fillets are harder to keep moist, especially if you like a crisp exterior. When shopping, you may need to ask the butcher or fish-monger to cut meat or fish to fit your needs.

COOKING TIMES ARE ESTIMATES. Cooking over a live fire is not like cooking in a precisely calibrated oven. Be prepared to adjust timing, especially if grilling in cool or windy weather. An instant-read thermometer or taking the meat off the grill and peeking with the tip of a knife are the best ways of telling when food is cooked to your liking.

WE LIKE IT RARE. We find that beef, pork, and fish are more flavorful and juicier when cooked short of well done, either rare, medium-rare, or medium, depending on the item in question. If you are worried about killing possible bacteria, you should cook all meat and seafood to an internal temperature of at least 160 degrees. Of course, chicken must be well done in all cases.