VEGETARIAN STIR-FRIES

TOFU AND/OR VEGETABLES CAN BE used to make meatless stir-fries. Tofu adds a protein element and absorbs the flavors of the sauce well. Stir-frying is a good match for tofu because it browns the tofu cubes and gives them a pleasantly crisp exterior.

We find that firm tofu (rather than soft or silken varieties) holds up best when stir-fried. Like dairy products, tofu is perishable and should be kept well chilled to maximize its shelf-life. We prefer to use tofu within a day or two of its purchase. If you want to keep the tofu for several days, open the package when you get it home from the market and refrigerate the tofu in fresh water. Change the water daily to keep the tofu fresh. Any hints of sourness and the tofu is past its prime.

When ready to stir-fry, drain the tofu and pat it dry with paper towels. We cut tofu into 1-inch cubes to speed cooking. To promote caramelization on the exterior, we turn the tofu as little as possible, no more than two or three times, as it sears. Tofu is hard to overcook, so let it brown for a total of two and one-half minutes.

Tofu is quite bland and we prefer it when paired with very flavorful sauces like those made with fermented black beans or chiles and cider vinegar.

In addition to two tofu recipes, this chapter contains four simple vegetable preparations that can be served as side dishes with a Western meal or as part of a multicourse Chinese meal. These dishes are especially quick to prepare and require a minimum of ingredients. There is also no need to marinate any ingredients in these recipes. We find that two of these dishes benefit from a little seasoning with salt just before serving.