GRILLED STEAKS & BURGERS

THE KEY TO COOKING STEAKS PROPERLY IS high heat. For an all-over seared crust, a very hot charcoal fire is a must. The coals must come within 2¹/₂ inches of the cooking grate. While this intense heat is needed to produce the crisp crust we like, it will burn the exterior of the steak before it is cooked through. We found that making a two-level fire (with coals piled high on one side and spread out on the other side of the grill) is necessary. After a quick searing over the very hot part of the fire, we move the steaks over the single layer of coals to cook through.

This system acts as insurance against bonfires; at the first sign of a flare-up, slide the steak to the cooler part of the grill. A two-level fire also solves the problem of cooking a porterhouse or T-bone steak that contains delicate tenderloin meat on one side of the bone and strip on the other side. Simply position these steaks so that the strip is over the hotter fire and the tenderloin is over the cooler fire.

For all cuts of steak, look for meat that has a bright, lively color. Beef normally ranges from pink to red, but dark meat probably indicates an older, tougher animal. The external fat as well as the fat that runs through the meat (called intramuscular fat or marbling) should be as white as possible. The marbling should be smooth and fine, running through the meat, and not in clumps. Stay away from packaged steaks that show a lot of red juice (known as "purge"). The purge may indicate a bad freezing job, and the steaks will be dry and cottony.

Grilling hamburgers requires a different technique. Their high fat content makes burgers particularly susceptible to flare-ups, but you still need enough heat to generate a good crust. The solution is a fire made of a single layer of coals. The heat is even but not overly intense.

Chuck is the best choice of meat for burgers. It has a robust, beefy flavor that other cuts do not. If you like, ask your butcher to grind a chuck roast to order or do it yourself in a food processor.

NOTES ON CUTS OF BEEF FOR STEAK

There are nine primal cuts of beef sold at the wholesale level. A butcher will trim these primal cuts into retail cuts. Steaks generally come from the following parts of the cow.

SHOULDER/CHUCK: Often labled London broil, steaks from this region are boneless and consist of a single muscle. Buy a shoulder steak that is ¹/₂ to 2 pounds and slice it thin on the bias. We find that shoulder steaks offer the best value for cost-conscious shoppers.

RIB: Rib, rib eye, or Delmonico steaks can be cut with or without the bone. They are tender and have a beefy flavor.

SHORT LOIN: Our favorite steak, the strip or top loin, is cut from this region. The tenderloin and filet mignon also come from the short loin, but we find them overly tender. The T-bone and porterhouse contain a nice balance of chewy strip and buttery tenderloin.

SIRLOIN: Sometimes labled London broil, these steaks are tougher than short loin steaks and not as highly prized.

ROUND: Steaks cut from the round (most often called London broil steaks) are boneless and quite lean. We find them dry and chewy and generally avoid them.

FLANK: The tender, boneless, single-muscle steak from the flank is often sold as London broil. It is fairly thin (no more than an inch thick) and weighs 1¹/₂ to 2 pounds. Like shoulder steaks, slice this cut on the bias for serving.