PEAS

THERE ARE THREE VARIETIES OF PEAS SOLD in most markets—shell peas, sugar snap peas, and snow peas. Shell peas are generally mealy and bland. Frozen peas are usually sweeter and better-tasting, but since fresh sugar snap and snow peas are almost always available, we prefer not to use frozen peas for side dishes.

The flat, light-green snow pea has a long history, especially in the Chinese kitchen. The peas are tiny and the pod is tender enough to eat. Sugar snap peas are a relatively recent development dating back just 20 years. They are a cross between shell peas and snow peas. The sweet, crisp pod is edible and holds small, juicy peas.

Sugar snap and snow peas should be cooked quickly so that they retain some crunch and color. Stir-frying works well with snow peas, which have a fairly sturdy pod. However, sugar snap peas are too delicate for such intense heat. We found the pods will become mushy by the time the peas inside are actually heated through.

Both kinds of peas can be steamed, but we found that they respond better to blanching in salted water. The salt balances some of their sweetness and brings out their flavor. Blanched peas tend to shrivel or pucker as they cool. To solve this problem, we plunge the cooked peas into ice water as soon as they are drained. This also helps to set their bright color. Once cooled, the peas can be drained, patted dry, and briefly sautéed in butter or oil to heat them through and add flavor.