Fresh Clam Sauce

NOTE: Large quahog clams, though they do not make great eating, provide plenty of liquid for a briny, brothy pasta sauce. And because quahogs, also called chowder clams, are so cheap, discard them without guilt and dine on the sweet, tender littlenecks with the pasta. To keep the littlenecks from becoming tough, cook them just until they begin to open in a little wine and then add them back to the sauce just before it is tossed with either spaghetti or linguine. The diced plum tomato in this recipe provides some acidity as well as color. Start the pasta at the same time you start cooking the garlic and undercook the pasta slightly, because it will be cooked again with the sauce. See figure 32 for information on cleaning clams.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Bring clams, wine, and cayenne to boil in deep, 10- to 12-inch covered skillet over high heat. Boil, shaking pan occasionally, until littlenecks begin to open, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer littlenecks with slotted spoon to bowl; set aside. Recover pan and continue cooking quahogs until their liquid is released, about 5 minutes more. Discard quahogs and strain liquid in pan through paper towel—lined sieve into large measuring cup (see figure 33). Add enough water to make 1 cup; set aside.

2. Wipe out skillet with paper towel and heat oil and garlic in empty skillet over medium heat until garlic starts to sizzle, about 1 minute. Adjust heat to low; cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic turns pale gold, about 5 minutes more. Add tomatoes, raise heat to high, and sauté until incorporated, about 2 minutes. Add littlenecks and cover; cook until all clams are open, 1 to 2 minutes more.

3. Add cooked, drained pasta, reserved clam liquid, and parsley and cook, stirring often, until pasta is melded with sauce, about 30 seconds. Serve immediately.