TRIFLE

VICTORIAN TRIFLE IS COMPOSED OF THREE OR more layers of sherry-moistened sponge cake, each dotted with tiny almond cookies and fresh raspberries and spread with a rich custard. The top is crowned with rosettes of lemon-scented whipped cream.

The texture of this celebratory dish is delicate and creamy, never heavy or wet, and the flavor is a subtle balance of tart fruit, slightly astringent wine, toasty almonds, and suave, eggy custard.

The custard is probably the trickiest part of the entire recipe. It must be rich and creamy but should not be too runny (or it might obscure the carefully constructed layers) or too stiff (or it might separate into curdish bits when spread over the cake layers).

Most custard recipes that we tested were too thin. We tried using less milk and more cream, more egg yolks, thickening with cornstarch and gelatin, and failed every time. Because all of these custards were made in a pan on the stove, we figured it was time to try the oven and use a water bath, a method that works well for many puddings and custards, including crème brûlée (see Chapter 7).

We used a shallow baking dish so that the custard was no firmer at the edges than the center when it set. On our first attempt, the oven produced a thick, glossy, completely smooth custard with the same texture as homemade mayonnaise—perfect for dropping over the cake layers in dollops.

The science here is quite simple. The proteins in the eggs need to coagulate when heated in order to produce a thick custard. However, if the eggs are overheated, the custard will scorch and curdle. Cooking on the stove requires constant stirring to prevent scorching. However, stirring makes it difficult for the egg proteins to bond together, and the custard is much softer when it finally sets. When the custard is baked, there is no need for stirring (the water bath prevents scorching), so the custard sets up much firmer and thicker.