Piquant Caper Sauce
NOTE: If making
this sauce, ask the butcher for the aitchbone (see
figure 27) and reserve any meat scraps that
have come off the lamb during the cleaning process. Make sure to
remove the fat from these scraps. You can also use the hinged part
of the shank bone (see figure 27). To accommodate the aitchbone,
you will need a wide saucepan or deep sauté pan. Start the sauce as
soon as the lamb goes into the
oven.
1 tablespoon olive oil
Lamb bones and meat scraps
1 medium onion, chopped coarse
3 cups chicken stock or canned chicken broth, preferably low-sodium
1/3 cup dry white wine or dry vermouth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/3 cup (3 ounces) small capers, drained, bottling liquid reserved
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in large, heavy-bottomed saucepan set over medium heat. Add reserved bones and meat scraps and onion. Sauté, turning bones several times, until well browned, about 10 minutes. Add broth, scraping pan bottom to loosen browned bits; bring to boil. Reduce heat to low; simmer, partially covered, until bones and meat have given up their flavor to broth, about 1 hour. Add a little water if bones are more than half exposed during cooking.
2. Set empty pan used to roast leg of lamb over medium heat. Add wine and scrape with wooden spoon until brown bits dissolve. Pour mixture into lamb stock, then strain everything into 2-cup glass measure. Let sit until fat rises, then skim. Add water, if necessary, to make 11/2 cups of liquid. Pour liquid back into saucepan and bring to boil.
3. Mix butter and flour to smooth paste. Gradually whisk butter-flour mixture into stock. Stir in capers, vinegar, and any juices lamb throws off while resting. Simmer to blend flavors, about 3 minutes. Add more vinegar or caper bottling liquid to achieve piquant, subtly sharp-sweet sauce. Serve with lamb.