Grilled London Broil

NOTE: London broil is a recipe, not a cut of meat. You take a thick steak, grill it, then slice it thinly, on a bias, across the grain. Traditionally, the cut for London broil was flank steak, which was once inexpensive but now costs upwards of $7 a pound. Thick steaks cut from the shoulder rather than the round (in our kitchen tests we found the latter to have a livery flavor and tougher texture) make a cheaper alternative, often selling for $2 or $3 a pound. This recipe can be adapted to thinner flanks. Simply grill over a single-level fire to desired doneness, 6 to 8 minutes total. Because the shoulder is thicker, it requires the two-level fire specified below. Do not cook past medium-rare or this lean cut will be unpalatably dry. London broil tastes best when served with a compound butter. Serves four.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Build a two-level fire (see figure 4). Set grill rack in place, cover grill with lid, and let rack heat up, about 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, sprinkle both sides of steak with salt and pepper to taste. Grill, uncovered, until well browned on one side, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn steak; grill until well browned on second side, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Once steak is well browned on both sides, slide to cooler part of grill. Continue grilling over medium fire to desired doneness, 5 to 6 minutes more for rare (120 degrees on instant-read thermometer), 6 to 7 minutes for medium-rare on the rare side (125 degrees), or 7 to 8 minutes for medium-rare on the medium side (130 degrees). Let steak rest 5 minutes, slice thin on bias, and serve immediately.