EQUIPMENT AND INGREDIENTS

STIR-FRYING REQUIRES FEW PIECES OF specialized equipment (you may already own them), but there are a number of ingredients that may seem unfamiliar. Here's a brief guide to buying and using the right tools and ingredients.

TOOLS FOR SUCCESS

PLASTIC SPATULA

Chinese cooks use long-handled metal food pushers or shovel spatulas to move food around woks. The same tool works well in a nonstick skillet, although to protect the pan's surface, you should use only plastic or wooden implements. We prefer large shovels with a wide, thin blade and long, heat-resistant handle.

NONSTICK SKILLET

We prefer a 12- or 14-inch nonstick skillet for stir-frying. This pan requires a minimum of oil and prevents foods from burning onto the surface as they stir-fry. We tested the major brands of nonstick skillets and particularly liked pans from All-Clad and Calphalon. Both pans are sturdy but not overly heavy. For instance, many enameled cast-iron pans weigh close to five pounds and are hard to maneuver. A pan that weighs about three pounds is much easier to control and still heavy enough to heat evenly. When shopping, make sure the handle is comfortable and preferably heat-resistant. A hollowed-out metal handle or a handle with a removable plastic sheath is ideal.

Our second choice for stir-frying is a regular 12- or 14-inch skillet. Without the nonstick coating, you will need to use slightly more oil. However, this pan will deliver excellent results. Look for the same features (a sturdy but not overly heavy pan with a heat-resistant handle is best) as with a nonstick skillet.

If you do not own a large skillet of any kind, do not substitute a smaller size. A 10-inch skillet is not large enough to accommodate all the ingredients in a stir-fry recipe for four. The ingredients will steam and stew rather than stir-fry.

A large Dutch oven with a 12-inch base can be used for stir-frying if you do not own a large skillet. It's a bit harder to maneuver this pan (swirling oil and scraping out the cooked protein are easier in a shallow skillet with a handle), but as long as the pan bottom is large enough, a Dutch oven will work fine. As with a regular skillet, you may need to use more oil to keep ingredients from sticking.

RICE COOKER

A heavy-duty saucepan with a tight-fitting lid is fine for preparing rice. However, if you make rice often, an electric rice cooker may be a wise investment. First of all, rice cookers are foolproof. Just add the right amount of water and rice and walk away. No need to adjust the temperature or check for doneness. An automatic sensor heats the water and then shuts off the cooker when all the water has been absorbed. Best of all, there is no need to time rice perfectly. All electric cookers automatically keep rice steaming hot for hours. Many models also come with nonstick pots that eliminate tedious cleanup.

STIR-FRY PANTRY

ASIAN SESAME OIL

Also known as dark or toasted sesame oil, this aromatic brown oil is used as a seasoning in sauces. Because of its low smoke point, it is not used for cooking. Do not substitute regular sesame oil, which is pressed from untoasted seeds and meant for salad dressings and cooking. Japanese brands of sesame oil are commonly sold in American supermarkets and are generally quite good. Sesame oil tends to go rancid quickly, so store it in a cool cabinet or refrigerate an opened bottle if you will not use it up within a couple of months.

CHILI PASTE

Sometimes labeled chili sauce, chili paste is a spicy seasoning made with crushed chile peppers, vinegar, and usually garlic. The texture is thick and smooth and the color is bright red. Brands vary from mild to incendiary, so taste before using chili sauce, and adjust as needed. Opened bottles can be refrigerated for many months.

DRIED HOT RED PEPPER FLAKES

Also called crushed hot red pepper flakes, this pantry staple is a convenient way to add heat to most any stir-fry recipe. We find that adding hot red pepper flakes along with the aromatics (scallions, garlic, and ginger) maximizes their flavor. Note that hot red pepper flakes will lose their punch over time and should be replaced at least twice a year

DRY SHERRY

We tested various combinations of ingredients for marinating the protein in our stir-fry recipes, including soy sauce, dry sherry, rice wine, chicken stock, sesame oil, cornstarch, and egg whites. We found that a simple mixture of soy sauce and dry sherry provides the best flavor. Rice wine also works well, but since most American cooks are not likely to have this ingredient on hand, our recipes call for dry sherry. Of course, if you have rice wine in the pantry, use an equal amount in place of the sherry.

SOY SAUCE

Soy sauce is the most important condiment in Asian cooking. Made from equal parts soybeans and roasted grains (usually wheat), plus water and salt, this fermented sauce is an all-purpose condiment that works with many other flavors. Many Americans confuse soy sauce with tamari. Soy sauce is made with wheat, while tamari contains just soybeans, water, and salt. Tamari is generally saltier and darker and better-suited as a dipping sauce (with sushi, for instance) than as a seasoning in cooking.

There are several kinds of soy sauce commonly sold in supermarkets in this country. For the most part, we prefer regular Chinese soy sauce. It's our choice for marinating meat, seafood, or tofu, or for adding a salty, fermented flavor to sauces. However, when using a larger amount of soy sauce, we prefer to use a light or reduced-sodium brand. For instance, a ginger sauce that contains three tablespoons of soy sauce would be too salty if made with a regular, full-sodium sauce. Unless otherwise noted, recipes were tested with regular soy sauce.

SZECHWAN PEPPERCORNS

Szechwan peppercorns have a mildly peppery, herbal flavor and aroma. If possible, smell peppercorns before buying them to gauge freshness and intensity. Twigs and tiny leaves will be mixed in with the peppercorns (just pick them out as you use the peppercorns), but there should be a minimum of black seeds. To bring out their flavor, toast peppercorns in a dry skillet until fragrant and then grind them in a coffee mill set aside for spices.