GRILLED PORK TENDERLOIN & CHOPS

TODAY'S LEANER PORK DOES WELL ON THE grill as long as you are careful not to overcook it. However, the tenderloin and chops can become tough and dry if cooked until thoroughly gray. This method worked for our mothers when even "lean" cuts of pork were laced with fat. But today we recommend grilling both the tenderloin and chops until the center is just tinged with a little pink (not bloody) in the center. The meat will register about 150 degrees on an instant-read thermometer at this stage.

The tenderloin is a torpedo-shaped cut that runs along the rib bones in the loin section. It is extremely lean and notable for its lack of marbling. While tender, it can be bland and benefits greatly from assertive seasoning. We prefer to coat the tenderloin (as well as chops) with a spice or herb rub before grilling and then serve it with a salsa, which adds more flavor and moisture. While a little sweetness often accentuates the flavor of pork, a sweet rub can burn easily, so tend the grill carefully when adding sugar to the mix.

Pork chops were once much fattier and less prone to drying out. While the problem is not quite as acute as with the tenderloin, care must be taken when cooking chops to keep them moist. When buying pork chops, look for chops that are solidly pink rather than streaked with white—the white is not fat but connective tissue, mostly elastin, which does not break down during cooking. Also, be sure to buy chops that are an inch thick. Thinner chops will dry out by the time the exterior is nicely seared.

The two "center-cut" chops (see figure 25) are taken from the center of the loin and are our first choice for grilling. The center rib chop looks like a miniature beef rib and the center loin chop looks like a miniature T-bone or porterhouse steak. Avoid cuts from the end of the loin, which tend to be tough and sinewy. Like the tenderloin, chops can be a bit dry and bland when simply oiled and seasoned with salt and pepper. Serve them with salsa and rub with spices or herbs for extra flavor and moisture.