GRILLED LAMB CHOPS

GRILLED LAMB CHOPS DON'T HAVE TO BE A rare (and expensive) summer treat. True, loin and rib chops (together, the eight rib chops form the cut known as rack of lamb) can cost upwards of $12 a pound. But we love the meaty flavor and chewy (but not tough) texture of shoulder chops. We also like the fact that they cost just $4 per pound.

In a side-by-side taste test, we grilled loin, rib, and shoulder chops to medium-rare and let them stand about 5 minutes before tasting. The rib chop was the most refined of the three, with a mild, almost sweet flavor and tender texture. The loin chop had a slightly stronger flavor; the texture was a bit firmer (but not chewier) than the rib chop. The shoulder chop had a distinctly gutsier flavor than the other two. While it was not at all tough, it was chewier. If you like the flavor of lamb (and we do) and are trying to keep within a budget, then try shoulder chops.

We also tried a second test in which we grilled the chops to medium, a stage at which many people prefer lamb. Both the rib and loin chops were dry and less flavorful and juicy than they were at medium-rare. The shoulder chop held its own, in both taste and texture, displaying another advantage besides price.

Shoulder chops can range in thickness from ¹/₂ to 1 inch. We prefer the thicker chops and you should ask your butcher to cut them for you if necessary. Loin and rib chops are usually thicker, often close to 1¹/₂ inches. The added thickness means that these chops should be cooked over a two-level fire to bring the inside up to temperature without charring the exterior. A two-level fire also makes sense as lamb tends to flame and the cooler part of the grill is the perfect place to let flames die down. Even when making a single-level fire for thinner shoulder chops, we often leave part of the grill bottom uncovered with coals so that we have a place to slide the chops if the flames become too intense.