CRÈME BRÛLÉE

PERFECT CRÈME BRÛLÉE HAS A SMOOTH, creamy, slightly eggy custard and delicate, crisp brown sugar crust. While it is necessary to heat the eggs so that they thicken the custard, the risk of curdling is ever-present. Slow, gentle heat is the key to making the custard set properly without any loss of smoothness.

For this reason, the custard for crème brûlée should be prepared in a protective water bath in the oven, not on top of the stove, where the heat is much more direct and intense. In addition, we found it preferable to add chilled cream (not scalded, as is common in most recipes) to the egg yolks. Hot cream quickly raises the temperature of the eggs, something we were trying to avoid.

We tried various combinations of ingredients and found that a simple custard of egg yolks, white sugar, and light whipping cream tastes best. Flavorings such as vanilla and spices detracted from the sweet cream and egg flavors and are not needed. We found that other types of dairy were too watery (half-and-half) or too rich (heavy cream). Light whipping cream, which has a fat content between 30 and 36 percent, is ideal. If you cannot find this cream, make your own by combining equal parts of heavy cream (36 to 40 percent fat) and light cream (18 to 30 percent fat).

As for the crisp, caramelized sugar topping, it is easily prepared under the broiler and does not require the use of a blow torch, as is the custom in many restaurants. Drying the dark brown sugar (it has a richer flavor than either light brown sugar or white sugar) in a warm oven improves its taste, texture, and appearance by removing excess moisture and lumps that might otherwise cause problems when the topping is caramelized.