Insight: Preserving Arts and Crafts

Local customs form a thread of continuity in rural Portugal, and none is stronger than the craft skills which are found throughout the country.

Portugal is a land rich in tradition, and in rural areas the skills and artistry of local craftspeople have been passed from generation to generation. Most skills are specific to one locality: pottery is perhaps the only national craft – although with important variations in design and decoration. Craft work is a significant cottage industry, but there is a danger of skills dying out, especially in regions with few visitors. To prevent this, EU funding has been channelled towards promoting the work of artisans to save skills, create employment and retain life in dying villages.

There are plenty of craft shops in the large towns, but the real joy is to stop in tiny villages and discover the spinning and weaving cooperatives formed by women, as in Mértola. See bobbin lacework, watch ceramics in the making, buy jute dolls, and marvel at the basket creations made from leaves of the dwarf fan palm.

The products of some regions have gained national importance. Arraiolos in Alentejo has a centuries-old tradition of rug- and carpet-making which has grown into a major industry; and the hand-embroidered bedspreads of Castelo Branco, which have been made since the 17th century, are also popular throughout Portugal and now in demand by tourists. You will see distinctive hand-painted furniture throughout the Alentejo. Estremoz sells little figurines in its weekend market; Caldas da Rainha is known for its ceramics; while Peniche, also in Estremadura, is famous for lace.

IGPORTUGAL_BeiraAlta-47_Portugal_EC.jpg

Clay-thrown, handpainted olive dishes, often embellished with the name of the locality, come with a separate nook for discarded olive pits.

Lydia Evans/Apa Publications

The Galo de Barcelos

There is no escape from the Barcelos cockerel. Its fame arises from a legend (as colourful as the little figure itself), which has been embroidered and enlarged with every telling. The central theme relates the story of a murder committed in the northern town of Barcelos many centuries ago. A certain Galician pilgrim came under suspicion as the perpetrator, and no matter how strongly he protested, his pleas of innocence fell on deaf ears, and he was sentenced to death.

Before his execution he was granted a last wish: to make a final plea before the judge, who, in the midst of entertaining guests to dinner, agreed to see him. In desperation, the condemned man pointed to the roast fowl on the dinner table and cried, “As surely as I stand innocent, so will that cock crow.” Miraculously, the rooster obliged. The judge forfeited his dinner, and the pilgrim gained his life.

Ceramic figures of the Barcelos cock are on sale everywhere. The symbol now also adorns everything from T-shirts to tea towels, and finds a place in most visitors’ luggage.

2712508_Portugal_EC.jpg

The medieval town of Óbidos.

Pictures Colour Library