Insight: Festivals for all Seasons

You can’t go far in Portugal without stumbling across a festival – colourful occasions that demonstrate a national talent for celebration.

On almost every weekend throughout the year there will be a festival taking place somewhere in Portugal. Saints’ days are the biggest single stimulus for holding a festa, and every village and town in the country enjoys the pro­tection of a patron saint. Romarias are generally more sober affairs with a greater religious dimension. Plenty of these take place too, especially at Easter time.

Good festivals to catch wherever you are in the country include the semi-pagan carnival, the last party before Lent, in February or March; and the solemn celebrations of Semana Santa, the week before Easter, which are particularly awe-inspiring in Braga, in the north. Twice annually (May and October) there is the Fátima Romaria, when thousands of pilgrims pay tribute at the Fátima shrine, founded on the spot where three children are believed to have seen an apparition of the Virgin in 1917.

But Portuguese festivals are not just about religion. In June it’s worth going to Lisbon’s Festas da Lisboa (www.egeac.pt), with live fado, street parties, music, theatre and more. The Festa do Sudoeste in August is Portugal’s answer to Glastonbury, with lots of international names and a laid-back beach vibe (it takes place in pretty Zambujeira do Mar, in Alentejo). Also in August, you can celebrate the delights of Portuguese shellfish at the Festival do Marisco (www.festivaldomarisco.com) in Olhão.

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The annual October pilgrimage to the Fátima Sanctuary.

Corbis

Regional Celebrations

Portugal has many festivals that are unique to a particular region. At Miranda do Douro, Trás-os-Montes, stick dances are performed to the music of bagpipes, cymbals and drums (15 August); in Amarante (early June) young men offer phallus-shaped cakes as tokens of love to the young ladies in celebration of São Gonçalo, the patron saint of love and marriage; at the Festas de São João in Braga, townsfolk bash each other on the heads with squeaky plastic hammers; and in Lisbon street parties celebrate the matchmaking Santo António (June), and men present a sprouting basil plant with a love poem hidden in it to the girl they hope to marry. Others are simpler affairs, where the fringe activities, such as biscuit-eating competitions are as popular as the main attraction.

Lisbon hosts several lively festivals: one of the biggest is Festas dos Santos Populares in June, which celebrates saints Anthony, John and Peter, and takes place in Alfama. The liveliest night is 12 June, when thousands gather to eat sardines, drink vast amounts of wine and join in the singing and dancing until late.

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Exquisite ceiling in the Igreja dos Paulistas, Bairro Alto, Lisbon.

Phil Wood/Apa Publications