Desserts are treats, but that doesn’t mean you have to throw all of the Food Matters principles out of the window in order to indulge. On the other hand, most of us don’t want constant offerings of super-“healthy” or vegan desserts. So what you have here is a meeting on middle ground: satisfying desserts made from real food, but completely different from their traditional counterparts in that fruits, whole grains, and nuts are the primary focus. To the extent that butter (and other dairy) and sugar are included, they’re in supporting roles. (And all you chocolate lovers should find plenty here to make you happy.)

A word about some specific ingredients. I don’t believe in forbidden or so-called evil foods. I use granulated and brown sugars, honey, and maple syrup because they’re easy to find and perform reliably. (For more about sweeteners and potential substitutions, see page 554.) In some places, I suggest whole wheat pastry flour instead of whole wheat all-purpose flour because it makes more tender baked goodies. It’s now available in most supermarkets and all natural food stores. If you bake a lot, buy it in bulk and freeze half of it so you always have it on hand.

The chapter starts out with cookies (and one candy), fast and universally loved. Next come cakes, crisps, and other pastries like turnovers. Puddings and custards, frozen desserts, and finally a bundle of especially fruity treats like soups—all easy to make and impressive to serve—round out the repertoire.

Chocolate Chunk Oatmeal Cookies

Makes: About 3 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to cool

Almost, but not quite, classic. You can follow three distinct paths here: vegan, “regular,” or somewhere in between. Any route you take will give you a rich-tasting, chewy, not-too-sweet treat. If you prefer a sweeter cookie, increase the brown sugar to ¾ cup.

½ cup vegetable oil, or 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened, or a combination

½ cup sugar

½ cup brown sugar

¼ cup applesauce, or 2 eggs

¾ cup whole wheat flour

¾ cup all-purpose flour

2 cups rolled oats

½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans

Pinch of salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ cup almond milk, rice milk, oat milk, or cow’s milk

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, broken into small chunks

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Use an electric mixer to cream the oil or butter and the sugars together; add the applesauce or eggs and beat until well blended.

2. Combine the flours, oats, nuts, salt, and baking powder in a bowl. Alternating with the milk, add the dry ingredients to the sugar mixture by hand, a little at a time, stirring to blend. Stir in the vanilla, then the chocolate chunks.

3. Put teaspoon-size mounds of dough about 3 inches apart on ungreased baking sheets. Bake until lightly browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool for about 2 minutes on the sheets, then use a spatula to transfer the cookies to a wire rack to finish cooling. Store in a tightly covered container at room temperature for no more than a day or 2.

Lemon-Almond Florentines

Makes: About 3 dozen

Time: About 40 minutes, plus time to cool

Many Florentine recipes call for coating the cookies in melted chocolate, which I think is overkill. I really prefer the touch of lemon.

Unsalted butter for greasing the pans

2 cups whole almonds

½ cup powdered sugar

1 egg white

¼ teaspoon salt

Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons

1. Heat the oven to 300°F. Grease 2 baking sheets with a generous smear of butter.

2. Grind the nuts in a food processor until they are just beginning to form a paste; this takes less than a minute. Transfer the nuts to a bowl and add the sugar, egg white, salt, and lemon zest. Stir, adding some lemon juice, a few drops at a time, until the mixture drops easily from a teaspoon. Save the leftover lemon juice.

3. Use the teaspoon to put dollops of the batter about 3 inches apart on the prepared sheets. Dip a fork in the reserved lemon juice and spread the batter into thin (about ⅛ inch) circles, roughly 1½ inches in diameter. Bake, rotating the pans once or twice, until firm, golden brown on top, and slightly darkened around the edges, 15 to 20 minutes. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets, then transfer them to wire racks to let them become crisp. Store in a tightly covered container at room temperature for no more than a day or 2.

Orange-Hazelnut Florentines. Use hazelnuts instead of almonds, and orange zest and juice instead of lemon.

Tropical Oatstacks

Makes: 2 to 3 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to cool

Different and amazingly good cookies that fall somewhere between banana bread and macaroons. The not-too-sweet oatstacks contain no sugar except for the natural sugars in the bananas, but if you have a real sweet tooth, you can roll the mounds of dough in sugar before you bake them. These are good vegan too: Just substitute vegetable oil for the butter.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the pans

3 large ripe bananas

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

⅔ cup rolled oats

½ cup chopped cashews or macadamia nuts

1 cup shredded, unsweetened coconut

1 teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease 2 baking sheets with a little butter.

2. Put the bananas in a large bowl and mash them well with a fork or potato masher. Stir in the melted butter and vanilla. In a separate bowl, mix together the oats, nuts, shredded coconut, baking powder, and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the banana mixture and stir just until combined.

3. Drop tablespoon-size mounds of dough about 3 inches apart on the baking sheets. Bake, rotating the pans as necessary, until golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Cool for about 2 minutes on the sheets before using a spatula to transfer the cookies to a wire rack to finish cooling. Store in a tightly covered container at room temperature for no more than a day or 2.

Walnut Biscotti

Makes: 2 to 3 dozen

Time: About 1¼ hours, partially unattended

Even without eggs and butter, these biscotti aren’t too dry, and they maintain their pleasant texture for days. Serve with coffee—or make either of the variations and serve with tea.

1⅓ cups walnut halves

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1¼ cups whole wheat flour

⅔ cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon cinnamon

Pinch of salt

¼ cup honey

Vegetable oil for greasing the pans

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Put half the walnuts in a food processor and pulse until finely ground. Transfer to a large bowl and add the remaining walnuts along with the flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt; mix well. Add the honey and ¾ cup water and mix until just incorporated, adding a little extra water if needed to bring the dough together.

2. Lightly grease 2 baking sheets with a little oil and dust them with flour; invert the sheets and tap them to remove excess flour. Divide the dough in half and shape each half into a 2-inch-wide log. Put each log on a baking sheet. Bake until the loaves are golden and beginning to crack on top, 30 to 40 minutes; cool the logs on the sheets for a few minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 250°F.

3. When the loaves are cool enough to handle, use a serrated knife to cut each on a diagonal into ½-inch-thick slices. Put the slices on the sheets, return them to the oven, and leave them there, turning once, until they dry out, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool completely on wire racks. Store in an airtight container for up to several days.

Almond-Lavender Biscotti. Much more subtle. Use almonds instead of walnuts and white sugar instead of brown. Substitute 1 tablespoon minced fresh lavender for the cinnamon.

Pistachio-Ginger Biscotti. Use pistachios instead of the walnuts, and 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped crystallized ginger in place of the cinnamon.

Chocolate-Cherry Panini

Makes: 4 sandwiches

Time: 30 minutes

Based very loosely on a classic Turkish dessert, this delicious little gem is incredibly simple and easily varied. You can use thin slices of bread from a hearty sandwich loaf or choose something lighter, like a rustic French or Italian country bread. Fresh cherries are the best filling (the absolute best are fresh sour cherries), though frozen are acceptable (thaw and drain them first). You can also use ½ cup dried cherries.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, softened

8 slices bread, preferably whole wheat

1 cup halved pitted dark or sour cherries (see the headnote)

4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Butter 4 slices of the bread on one side with half the butter and lay them, butter side down, on a baking sheet. Spread the cherries evenly over the bread and sprinkle with the chopped chocolate. Close each sandwich with a second slice of bread and butter the top sides. Cover the sandwiches with a second baking sheet, weigh down the sheet with something heavy, like a cast-iron skillet or some cans of tomatoes, and let sit for 5 minutes.

2. Remove the weight and top baking sheet. Bake the sandwiches until the bottom of the bread is browned lightly, about 5 minutes, then turn and cook for 5 minutes on the other side. Cut each sandwich in half and serve warm.

Chocolate-Cherry Panino. Dessert—or breakfast—for one. Assemble one sandwich by filling 2 slices whole wheat bread with ¼ cup cherries and ½ ounce chopped chocolate. Put 2 teaspoons butter in a skillet set over medium heat. When the butter melts, put the sandwich in the skillet, cover it with a plate, and weigh down the plate as described above (or simply press down on it gently). Cook until the bottom of the bread is browned lightly, 2 to 3 minutes, lift the sandwich from the pan, add another teaspoon butter, let it melt, then return the sandwich and repeat on the other side. Eat immediately.

Cherry Truffles

Makes: 10 truffles

Time: About 30 minutes

This fun spin on truffles combines no more than dried fruit, booze (or water), and a dusting of cocoa powder. They’re nice and gooey without being too sweet and have enough chocolate to satisfy any craving. To vary the fruit, substitute something dry—like raisins or pineapple—for the cherries, and a fruit that’s more moist and chewy—like dates or pears—for the figs; you need the contrast to help hold everything together. For the outside, roll some around in powdered sugar, shredded coconut, or finely chopped nuts. Before you know it, you’ll have an assortment.

1 cup bourbon, brandy, cherry liqueur, or water

1½ cups dried cherries

½ cup dried figs or apricots

¼ cup cocoa powder

1. Put the liquor or water in a medium saucepan over high heat. When it’s steaming but not boiling, stir in the cherries, turn off the heat, and cover. Let sit until soft, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain the cherries well, reserving the liquid.

2. Transfer the cherries to a food processor and add the figs. Pulse until the mixture is puréed and comes together, adding a few drops of the reserved liquid if necessary to keep the machine running. (You can prepare the recipe to this point and refrigerate for up to a day.)

3. Put the cocoa in a shallow bowl. Take about 1 tablespoon of the mixture and roll it into a ball with your hands, then roll it around in the cocoa. Put on wax or parchment paper. Repeat until you have used up all of the mixture. Serve immediately or store the truffles at room temperature in a tightly sealed container for up to a week.

Brownie Cake

Makes: About 8 serving

Time: 1½ hours, plus time to cool

Using puréed prunes instead of butter in baking recipes was a big trend during the low-fat-crazed 1990s. That’s not exactly my style, but prunes are a great idea, especially when you build back in a little butter. The fruit makes the cake moist, dense, and fudgelike, and its taste is mysterious (and mild). I actually could have called this recipe triple-chocolate cake: The batter has melted chocolate, cocoa powder, and chocolate chunks.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing the pan

1½ cups pitted prunes (dried plums)

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour

½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder

¼ cup sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square or round baking pan with a little butter. Put the prunes and 2 cups water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat so the mixture bubbles gently. Cover and cook, stirring once in a while, until the prunes are very soft, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the flour, cocoa, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl.

2. When the prunes are ready, add half the chocolate to the fruit and stir off the heat until the chocolate has melted. Transfer the prune mixture to a food processor and purée. Add 4 tablespoons butter along with the eggs and vanilla and process until smooth and creamy. Add the prune mixture to the flour mixture and stir just to combine. Stir in the remaining chocolate.

3. Turn the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the middle is set, 35 to 45 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then invert onto a wire rack to cool for at least another hour before serving. Store at room temperature, covered with wax paper, for up to a day or 2; use plastic wrap and it will keep for an extra day or so.

Spicy Carrot Cake

Makes: About 8 serving

Time: About 1 hour, plus time to cool

Most carrot cake recipes call for raw carrots but this one treats them differently. First you cook the carrots with butter, brown sugar, and some sliced apples to intensify the flavors and create a tender crumb without too much butter. Once that’s done, the batter comes together quickly.

You can grate the vegetables and fruit by hand, but if you have a food processor, you will minimize both the effort and cleanup.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing the pan

12 ounces carrots (about 4 medium)

1 tart apple (about 4 ounces), peeled, cored, and cut into chunks

½ cup brown sugar

½ cup sugar

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 eggs

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour

½ cup all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon

½ teaspoon nutmeg

½ teaspoon cloves

¼ cup milk

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square or round baking pan with a little butter. Grate the carrots and apples in a food processor or by hand. Put 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the carrots, apple, and brown sugar and cook, stirring, until soft, colored, and fairly dry, 5 to 10 minutes. Let the carrots and apples cool for a few minutes, then transfer them to a blender or food processor (no need to wash it out if you used it for grating) and purée.

2. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, sugar, and oil to the food processor and pulse until combined. (Or from this point mix everything together in a large bowl.) With the machine running, add the eggs one at a time.

3. Combine the flours, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves in a separate bowl. Add about a third of the flour mixture to the carrot mixture. With the machine running, add about half the milk; add another third of the flour, followed by the rest of the milk, then finally the last of the flour. Process until the batter just evens out.

4. Turn the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until the middle is set (your fingers should leave only a small indentation when you gently press the cake), 45 to 50 minutes. Cool in the pan for at least an hour before serving. Store at room temperature, covered with wax paper, for up to a day or 2; use plastic wrap and it will keep for an extra day or so.

Apricot Polenta Cake

Makes: About 8 serving

Time: About 1 hour, plus time to cool

Cornmeal combines nicely with the orange juice here, and using it allows you to reduce both flour and eggs. The subtle flavor of olive oil is a nice surprise, as is the slight sponginess. For a larger cake, double the recipe and bake either two layers or use a 9 × 13-inch pan. And if you like, use dried cherries, currants, blueberries, or chopped dates instead of the apricots.

⅓ cup olive oil, plus more for greasing the pan

½ cup coarse cornmeal

¼ teaspoon salt

½ cup all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons baking powder

½ cup sugar

2 eggs, separated

3 tablespoons orange juice

1 cup chopped dried apricots

Powdered sugar, for dusting

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square or round baking pan with a little oil. Put the cornmeal and salt in a medium saucepan; slowly whisk in 1¼ cups water to make a lump-free slurry. Set the pot over medium-high heat and bring almost to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and-bubble gently, whisking frequently, until thick, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

2. Combine the flour and baking powder in a bowl. With an electric mixer (or a whisk) to beat ⅓ cup oil with the sugar until creamy; add the egg yolks and beat until thick, scraping down the sides of the mixing bowl as necessary (this will take 5 to 7 minutes). Mix in the polenta until smooth, then mix in the dry ingredients until smooth. Add the orange juice and apricots and stir until blended.

3. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. (When you remove the beaters or whisk, a soft peak should fold over onto itself.) Stir them thoroughly but as gently as possible into the batter (the base batter is fairly thick and it’s okay if the whites aren’t fully incorporated).

4. Turn the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan. Invert it out onto a plate if you like and sprinkle with powdered sugar just before serving. Store at room temperature, covered with wax paper, for a day or 2; use plastic wrap and it will keep for an extra day or so. (Dust again with powdered sugar after storing.)

Fruitcake You Actually Want to Eat

Makes: 8 to 10 serving

Time: About 2 hours, largely unattended

I could never stand fruitcake, but then I realized what I really hated were those awful neon-colored candied fruits. Why not (I thought) use good dried fruit, bound together with just enough batter to make the loaf sliceable?

With this recipe, the rum or brandy is used for macerating the fruit rather than saturating the cake after baking. For a good balance, try a combination of sweet and sour fruits, taking into consideration different textures and colors. But don’t get too fussy; use what you like and it’ll be fine.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for greasing

4 loosely packed cups mixed dried fruit (like cherries, citron, pineapple, apricots, raisins, dates, apples, etc.), chopped as needed

½ cup chopped crystallized ginger, optional (or use more fruit)

1 cup dark rum, brandy, or orange juice

1 tablespoon grated orange zest

1¼ cups whole wheat flour

¾ cup chopped nuts (any kind)

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon cinnamon

Pinch of salt

Pinch of either allspice, nutmeg, or cloves

2 eggs

¼ cup molasses

1. Heat the oven to 300°F. Generously grease a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan with butter. Put the fruit, ginger if you’re using it, rum, zest, and 1 cup water in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then remove the pan from the heat. Cover and let cool for 15 to 20 minutes.

2. Combine the flour, nuts, baking soda, cinnamon, salt, and spice in a small bowl. In a large bowl, beat the 2 tablespoons butter, eggs, and molasses together until the mixture is thick, 3 to 5 minutes.

3. Drain the fruit over a third bowl, pressing down on the fruit to capture as much liquid as possible. Stir the fruit into the egg mixture (save the fruit liquid for another use). Add the dry ingredients by hand, stirring just to combine; do not beat. Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan, smooth the top, and put the pan on a baking sheet.

4. Bake until the sides of the cake pull away from the pan and a toothpick inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean, 1 to 1¼ hours. Let the cake cool in the pan before inverting it onto a wire rack. Remove the pan, then turn the cake right side up. Slice and serve, or store at room temperature, wrapped in wax paper or foil for up to 2 weeks.

Mango (or Other Fruit) Crisp

Makes: 6 to 8 serving

Time: 40 minutes

Mangoes aren’t always available, but when they are, this is a stunning (and stunningly easy) way to prepare them. (When they aren’t, use peaches, apples, pears, or plums in this crisp.) The only tricky part is pitting the mango: Hold the fruit vertically on the cutting board, so that it couldn’t stand up without your help. Then use a sharp knife to cut down right along the pit; repeat on the other side of the pit. Now peel and slice both pieces. Try to get as much flesh as you can off the pit and chop that too.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing the pan

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 cup brown sugar

½ cup shredded, unsweetened coconut

1 tablespoon lemon or lime juice

½ teaspoon cinnamon, or to taste

½ cup whole wheat flour

½ cup rolled oats

Pinch of salt

3 pounds mangoes, peeled, pitted, and chopped (see the headnote)

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square or round baking dish with a little butter. Cream the 4 tablespoons butter, oil, and brown sugar with an electric mixer or fork. Stir in the coconut, lemon juice, cinnamon, flour, oats, and salt until combined and crumbly. (You can make the topping ahead to this point, tightly wrap, and refrigerate for up to a day or freeze for up to several weeks; thaw before proceeding.)

2. Spread the mangoes in the bottom of the prepared dish and crumble on the topping. Bake until golden and just starting to brown, 25 to 35 minutes. Serve immediately, or at least while still warm.

Pear Turnovers

Makes: 8 serving

Time: 45 minutes

These turnovers have a lot going for them. They’re easy, juicy, and perfectly sweet, and you don’t have to roll out any dough, because they’re made with phyllo instead of the more traditional puff pastry. They’re also portable; just wrap them in foil or wax paper or slip them into a container.

Some other fruits to try: apricots and cherries (which make a cheerful color combination), apples, or any mixture of stone fruit. (But berries are just too juicy to use here.)

8 ripe pears, peeled, cored, and roughly chopped

¼ to ⅓ cup sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch

8 to 10 sheets (about 4 ounces) whole wheat phyllo dough, thawed

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing

Powdered sugar, for dusting

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine the pears, ¼ cup sugar, and cornstarch in a large bowl. Taste and add another tablespoon or 2 sugar if you like.

2. Set the phyllo dough on your work surface and cover with a piece of plastic and a damp towel to keep it from drying out. Remove one sheet, put it in front of you, brush it with some butter, and fold it in half lengthwise. Put about one-eighth of the pear mixture at one end of the phyllo strip and fold it over to enclose the filling and make a triangle, like folding a flag. Next fold the strip the other way so that the open seam is enclosed; brush the top of the turnover with a little more butter. Keep folding the triangle back and forth until you reach the end of the sheet. Transfer the turnover to the prepared baking sheet and brush it with a little more melted butter. Repeat with the remaining phyllo sheets and pear mixture. You should have 8 turnovers. If there’s any phyllo left over, save it for another use; you can even refreeze it.

3. Bake the turnovers until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, dusted with powdered sugar.

Lemon-Blueberry Crisp with Pine Nut Topping

Makes: 6 to 8 serving

Time: 40 to 50 minutes

You can hardly go wrong with blueberries and lemon, the basis for this rich, summery, and fragrant dessert. The topping is special too: Ground pine nuts with butter and brown sugar deliver marzipan-like intensity, while whole pine nuts provide crunch. A tablespoonful of good ricotta or mascarpone cheese makes a lovely garnish (as, of course, does ice cream or whipped cream).

Sour cherries, raspberries, or other berries are all good alternatives to the blueberries.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing the pan

4 to 6 cups fresh or frozen blueberries

1 cup pine nuts

½ cup sugar

½ cup whole wheat flour

½ teaspoon nutmeg

Pinch of salt

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square or round baking dish with a little butter. If you’re using frozen berries, set them in a colander to thaw for a bit while you prepare the crust. Put ¾ cup of the pine nuts in a food processor along with the 4 tablespoons butter and sugar; let the machine run until the nuts are finely ground and the mixture is creamy and fluffy.

2. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and add the whole pine nuts, flour, nutmeg, and salt and stir with a fork until crumbly. (You can make the topping ahead to this point, tightly wrap, and refrigerate for up to a day or freeze for up to several weeks; thaw before proceeding.)

3. Spread the blueberries in the prepared baking dish and sprinkle the top with the lemon zest. Crumble the topping over all and press down gently. Bake until the filling is bubbling and the crust is just starting to brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve immediately, or at least while still warm.

Coconut Tart with Chocolate Smear

Makes: 6 to 8 serving

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to cool

If you like Mounds bars, you will like this tart, which is sort of an inside-out version in the form of a great big cookie. The chocolate filling is enriched with eggs and coconut milk, which makes it a little custardy and quite yummy. If you want to gild the lily, top the whole thing with a layer of fresh raspberries or cut-up strawberries.

2 cups shredded, unsweetened coconut

½ cup sugar

2 eggs, separated

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped

1 cup coconut milk (light is fine)

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Combine the shredded coconut, sugar, egg whites, vanilla, and salt in a bowl. Press the mixture into the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch tart pan. Bake until the tart shell is firm and lightly toasted, 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, combine the chocolate, egg yolks, and coconut milk in a saucepan over low heat. Cook, whisking almost constantly, until the chocolate is completely melted and steaming, but don’t let the mixture boil and separate.

3. When the tart shell comes out of the oven, spread the chocolate mixture in it. Let the tart cool and become firm before cutting into wedges and serving. The tart will keep, covered and refrigerated, for a day or two.

Pistachio Tart with Chocolate Smear. Substitute 2 cups ground pistachios for the shredded coconut.

Cardamom-Scented Pear Crisp

Makes: 6 to 8 serving

Time: 40 to 50 minutes

Even imperfect, not-quite-ripe pears will become tender and richly flavored when baked in a crisp (apples, of course, are another good way to go). What makes this crisp especially lovely is cardamom, an assertive, warm spice, traditional in baking (especially in Sweden) with a wonderfully home-filling aroma.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the pan

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

¾ cup brown sugar

½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 cup rolled oats

½ cup whole wheat flour

Pinch of salt

3 pounds pears, cored and sliced

1 teaspoon cardamom

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square or round baking dish with a little butter. Cream the 4 tablespoons butter, oil, and sugar together using an electric mixer or fork. Stir in the nuts, lemon juice, oats, flour, and salt until combined and crumbly. (You can make the topping ahead to this point; tightly wrap, and refrigerate for up to a day or freeze for up to several weeks; thaw before proceeding.)

2. Put the pears in the prepared dish, sprinkle with the cardamom, and toss. Crumble the topping over all. Bake until the filling is bubbly and the crust is just starting to brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve immediately, or at least while still warm.

Strawberry-Rhubarb Gratin “Brûlée”

Makes: 6 to 8 serving

Time: About 1 hour

This dessert is a cross between a gratin, a crisp, and a clafoutis, the French dessert of fruit baked in pancake-like batter. Here, I go for the fresh taste of fruit and whipped custard made with heavy cream, along with a lightly sweet and crunchy nut topping. As long as you have 1½ pounds fruit total, substitute whatever you like: Plums, peaches, sour cherries, or blueberries are particularly nice.

Unsalted butter for greasing the pan

2 eggs

½ cup sugar

Pinch of salt

½ cup cream

2 pints strawberries (about 1 pound), hulled and halved

8 ounces rhubarb, tough strings removed, sliced 1 inch thick

½ cup roughly chopped hazelnuts

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a medium gratin dish (about 9 × 5 × 2 inches) or an 8- or 9-inch square or round baking dish with butter.

2. Whisk the eggs in a large bowl until frothy. Add half the sugar and the salt and whisk until combined. Add the cream and whisk until smooth and slightly foamy.

3. Put the strawberries and rhubarb in the prepared dish and pour the custard over the fruit. Bake until the top of the gratin is golden brown and bubbly, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove it from the oven. Heat the broiler and move the rack about 4 inches from the fire. Sprinkle the top of the gratin with the hazelnuts and the remaining ¼ cup sugar. Broil until the sugar bubbles, only a minute or 2. Let cool for at least 5 minutes. Serve within a couple hours of making it.

Apple-Cranberry Brown Betty

Makes: 6 to 8 serving

Time: 45 minutes

A brown betty is a simple, old-fashioned dessert made with day-old bread, fruit, butter, and sugar. It’s moist, sweet, and not as heavy as bread pudding (better, really, which makes it all the more surprising that it fell out of favor). And this version has an added twist: a hint of rosemary, one of the few herbs that complement sweet flavors as well as savory. If you can get your hands on lavender, that’s another good choice.

3 cups cubed day-old bread, preferably whole wheat

3 cups peeled, cored, and sliced apples (3 to 4 medium-to-large apples)

2 cups fresh cranberries

Juice of ½ lemon

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, or ¼ teaspoon dried

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter

½ cup apple juice

¼ cup brown sugar

¼ cup sugar

1. Heat the oven to 300°F. Spread the bread out on a baking sheet and bake, shaking the pan once or twice, until very lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, toss the apples and cranberries with the lemon juice and rosemary. Melt the butter with the apple juice in a small saucepan over low heat.

2. When the bread is done, turn the oven heat to 375°F. Toss the bread with the sugars and half the butter mixture. Spread 1 cup of the bread mixture in a medium gratin dish (about 9 × 5 × 2 inches) or an 8- or 9-inch square or round baking dish. Top with half the apple-cranberry mixture. Repeat and finish with a layer of bread. Drizzle the remaining butter mixture over all.

3. Bake until the liquid in the dish is bubbly and the top is nicely browned, at least 30 minutes. Serve hot or warm, or let sit at room temperature for up to several hours and then reheat at 300°F for about 15 minutes.

Coconut Flan

Makes: 4 serving

Time: About 30 minutes, plus at least 4 hours to chill

The classic caramel-sauced custard of Spain and Latin America is usually made with milk or cream and plenty of egg yolks. This version is creamy, rich, and sweet but dairy-free, thanks to coconut milk, tofu, and gelatin. For best results, use full-fat (not light) coconut milk. You can also add ½ cup shredded coconut to the custard, which will sacrifice the flan’s smoothness but does add some chew and intensifies the flavor.

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

One 14-ounce can coconut milk

1 tablespoon unflavored gelatin

½ cup soft silken tofu

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Pinch of salt

1. Put ½ cup sugar and ½ cup water in a small, heavy saucepan. Turn the heat to medium-low and cook, shaking the pan occasionally (it’s best not to stir), until the sugar liquefies, turns clear, then turns golden brown, about 20 minutes. Immediately pour the caramel into the bottom of a medium glass bowl or gratin dish, or four 6-ounce ramekins.

2. Put the coconut milk in a medium saucepan and sprinkle the gelatin over it; let sit for 5 minutes. Turn the heat to low and cook, stirring, until the gelatin dissolves completely.

3. Put the tofu, vanilla, salt, and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar in a blender or food processor and purée. Add the coconut milk mixture and blend until smooth. Pour the custard into the prepared bowl or ramekins and transfer to the refrigerator.

4. Chill until set, at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours. Serve the flan from the bowl (with a big spoon for scooping out the caramel) or ramekins; or dip the bottom of the vessel(s) in hot water for about 10 seconds, run a thin knife all the way around the edge, then invert onto plates, scraping the sauce over all.

Coconut and Brown Rice Pudding

Makes: 4 serving

Time: About 2½ hours, largely unattended

To make a really luscious brown rice pudding you have to break the grains up a bit in the food processor so they’ll release their thickening starches; it works. I use coconut milk here, but you can substitute cow’s milk for some or all of the liquid. See the sidebar for some ideas about stir-ins and garnishes. If you want a thicker pudding, veer toward the high end of the rice quantities listed below.

⅓ to ½ cup long-grain brown rice

Two 14-ounce cans coconut milk

½ cup brown sugar

Pinch of salt

A cinnamon stick, a few cardamom pods, a split vanilla bean, a pinch of saffron, or other flavoring (see the sidebar), optional

1. Heat the oven to 300°F. Put the rice in a food processor and pulse a few times to break the grains up a bit and scratch their hulls; don’t overdo it, or you’ll pulverize them.

2. Put all the ingredients in a 2-quart ovenproof pot or Dutch oven. Stir a couple of times and put the pan in the oven, uncovered. Cook for 45 minutes, then stir. Cook for 45 minutes more, and stir again. At this point the milk will have darkened a bit and should be bubbling, and the rice will have begun to swell.

3. Cook for 30 minutes more. The milk will be even darker, and the pudding will start to look more like rice than milk. It’s almost done. Return the mixture to the oven and check every 10 minutes, stirring gently each time you check.

4. It might (but probably won’t) take as long as 30 minutes more for the pudding to be ready. Just trust your instincts and remove the pudding from the oven when it is still soupy; it will thicken a lot as it cools. (If you overcook the pudding, it will become fairly hard though still quite good to eat.) Remove the whole spices if you used them. Serve the pudding warm, at room temperature, or cold, alone or with your favorite topping.

Baked Pumpkin-Orange Custard

Makes: 6 to 8 serving

Time: About 1 hour, plus time to cool

Take the crust off pumpkin pie—and make it even more pumpkiny—and you have an easy and beautiful fall dessert without all that white flour. The recipe calls for canned pumpkin; be sure to get the kind that isn’t seasoned or sweetened. If you’re feeling ambitious, cook pumpkin or other squash (or sweet potatoes for that matter) and purée them yourself, or use leftovers. For a really tasty garnish, sprinkle the top with chopped candied ginger and/or crushed gingersnaps. And if you like your desserts on the sweet side, increase the sugar to 1 cup.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the pan

2 eggs

¾ cup brown sugar

12 ounces soft silken tofu

3 cups (two 14-ounce cans) puréed pumpkin (see the headnote)

½ teaspoon cinnamon, or more to taste

¼ teaspoon nutmeg

¼ teaspoon allspice

Grated zest and juice of 1 orange

Pinch of salt

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square pan or pie plate with a little butter. Use an electric mixer or a whisk to beat the eggs and sugar in a large bowl until light. Add the tofu and beat until smooth, a minute or 2 longer.

2. Add the 2 tablespoons melted butter and remaining ingredients and beat until everything is thoroughly combined. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and bake until set around the edges but still a little jiggly at the center, about 1 hour. Let cool completely before serving, or refrigerate for up to a day and serve cold.

Chocolate-Banana Pudding Parfaits

Makes: 4 to 6 serving

Time: 30 minutes, plus time to chill

Pudding without milk? Yes. The “secret” is silken tofu, which has a surprisingly non-beany flavor and smooth texture. To make either all chocolate or all banana pudding, omit one from the ingredient list and double the other.

½ cup sugar

1 pound soft silken tofu

4 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, melted

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

2 ripe bananas

⅛ teaspoon salt

1. Put the sugar and ½ cup water in a small saucepan; bring to a boil and cook until the sugar dissolves, stirring occasionally. Cool for at least 10 minutes.

2. Put half the sugar syrup, half the tofu, all of the chocolate, and the vanilla in a food processor or blender and purée until completely smooth. Transfer to a bowl and rinse out the machine.

3. Put the remaining sugar syrup, remaining ½ pound tofu, the bananas, and salt in the food processor or blender and purée until completely smooth.

4. Cover the bowls of pudding with plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes or up to several hours. Before serving, stir each until smooth. Layer alternate spoonfuls of the puddings in tall glasses or champagne flutes.

Raspberry Cabernet Sorbet

Makes: At least 4 serving

Time: 10 minutes

All you need is a food processor to make this supereasy frozen dessert. If you can find good fresh raspberries and freeze them yourself, so much the better. The small amount of alcohol in the mix makes the texture a little less icy than in a typical sorbet, and leaves you and your guests with nearly a full bottle of wine to polish off.

1 pound frozen raspberries

½ cup silken tofu, yogurt, or crème fraîche

3 to 4 tablespoons sugar

2 to 4 tablespoons cabernet or other full-bodied, flavorful red wine

1. Put the raspberries, tofu, sugar, and 2 tablespoons wine in a food processor. Process until just puréed and creamy, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed and adding more wine 1 tablespoon at a time if the fruit does not break down completely. Be careful not to overprocess or the sorbet will liquefy.

2. Serve immediately or freeze for up to a day or two; if serving later, allow 10 to 15 minutes for the sorbet to soften at room temperature.

Minty Green Tea Granita

Makes: 4 serving

Time: About 2 hours, largely unattended

It’s not too often you get a dessert that’s both refreshing and invigorating, and it doesn’t hurt that this requires only about 15 minutes of work, total (though it’s spread over a couple of hours). Use good-quality green tea, since the complexity will benefit the overall flavor. For a different, even brighter twist, use about a tablespoon of sliced fresh ginger in place of the mint.

3 green tea bags, or 2 tablespoons loose green tea

¼ cup fresh mint

¼ cup honey, or more as needed

Juice of 1 lemon

1. Bring 3 cups water almost to a boil. Add the tea and mint, cover, and turn off the heat. Let steep for 10 minutes, then strain to remove the solids. Stir in the honey and lemon juice. Taste and add more honey if necessary to make a nicely sweet blend.

2. Pour the mixture into a shallow glass or ceramic pan and freeze for at least 2 hours, stirring to break up the crystals every 30 minutes or so. It should be slushy and crunchy with ice crystals. If the granita becomes too hard, pulse it (do not purée) in a food processor before serving, or set it in the fridge for a bit and stir once in a while to bring back the desired texture.

Spiked Pink Grapefruit Granita

Makes: 4 serving

Time: At least 3 hours, largely unattended

You can serve this either as an icy apéritif or a dessert that doubles as a nightcap. Use whatever citrus or other juice that strikes your fancy (you might think Bloody Mary mix is fun, for example), but be careful adding the sugar syrup—some juices require almost no extra sugar. The alcohol in this granita ensures the texture remains icy-slushy and not too firm.

½ cup sugar

2½ cups grapefruit juice

½ cup vodka

Grated grapefruit zest to taste, optional

1. Combine the sugar with ½ cup water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook until the sugar dissolves, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and cool.

2. Combine the juice, vodka, and a pinch of the zest. Add some of the sugar syrup to sweeten the blend as you like (you probably will not need all of it; reserve the rest). Stir, taste, and add more zest or syrup as needed.

3. Pour the mixture into a shallow glass or ceramic pan and freeze for at least 3 hours, stirring to break up the crystals every 30 minutes or so. It should be slushy and crunchy with ice crystals. (You can make the granita up to a day or 2 ahead.) If the granita becomes too hard, pulse it (do not purée) in a food processor before serving, or set it in the fridge for a bit and stir once in a while to bring back the desired texture.

Chocolate Tofu Ice Cream

Makes: At least 4 serving

Time: 20 minutes, plus time to chill and freeze

If you think vegan ice cream is too extreme, stick to real ice cream, but be aware that silken tofu produces a surprisingly creamy and delicious alternative. Once the mixture is made, you have some options. If you don’t have an ice cream machine, simply put the mixture in the freezer; four hours is ideal, but if you leave it in too long, just break it up a bit, and then whip it up in a food processor right before serving; or freeze it, then let it thaw a bit, and eat it like frozen pudding, without doing anything else. If you’re looking for last-minute stir-ins, try chopped toasted walnuts or pistachios, or a handful of cherries or raspberries.

¾ cup sugar

1 pound soft silken tofu

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Combine the sugar with ¾ cup water in a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves. Let it cool a bit.

2. Put all of the ingredients (including the sugar syrup) in a blender and purée until it is completely smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides if necessary. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Or transfer the mixture to an airtight container and freeze until it is firm, at least 4 hours; then break into chunks and purée in the food processor. Or simply let thaw a bit and eat as soon as it’s scoopable.

Almond Ice Milk

Makes: At least 4 serving

Time: 20 minutes, plus time to chill and freeze

You don’t need an ice cream machine to enjoy this icy combination of dairy and nondairy milks with big almond flavor and crunch. If you want a more luxurious texture, use a little cream in place of some of the cow’s milk. Other potential additions: chopped dark chocolate, raisins, chopped dried apricots or dates, toasted coconut, crumbled cookies, crystallized ginger—you get the idea.

2 cups almond milk

1 cup whole milk

2 tablespoons cornstarch

¾ cup sugar

½ cup chopped almonds

1. Put the almond milk and cow’s milk in a saucepan over medium-high heat and bring just to a boil, stirring. Meanwhile, mix the cornstarch with 2 tablespoons or so cold water to make a slurry.

2. Whisk the slurry and sugar into the milk mixture. Lower the heat so the mixture doesn’t quite boil and cook, stirring constantly, until thick. The mixture is ready when it coats the back of a spoon and a line drawn with your finger on the back of the spoon remains intact, 10 to 15 minutes. Strain the mixture if you think there might be any lumps of cornstarch.

3. Cool, then stir in the almonds. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. Or transfer the mixture to an airtight container and freeze until it is firm, at least 4 hours; then break into chunks and purée in the food processor. Or let thaw a bit and eat as soon as it’s scoopable.

Hazelnut Ice Milk. Use hazelnut milk and chopped hazelnuts instead of almond milk and chopped almonds.

Apple Fritters

Makes: 4 serving

Time: 30 minutes

These are close enough to apple fritters to use the name, but since they’re more like apple pancakes, you don’t need to deep-fry. Leave out the yogurt and serve with Hazelnut Ice Milk (page 580) for a really terrific combo.

5 apples, peeled, cored, and grated (about 3 packed cups)

1 egg, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon cinnamon

Pinch of salt

¼ cup whole wheat flour

Vegetable oil, for frying

Plain yogurt, for serving, optional

1. Heat the oven to 275°F. Squeeze the apples dry with your hands or a towel and put them in a large bowl. Add the egg, sugar, cinnamon, salt, and flour; mix well. (You can prepare the batter ahead of time to this point and refrigerate for up to a couple of hours before cooking.)

2. Put about ¼ inch oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, drop spoonfuls of the apple mixture in the oil and spread them out a bit. Work in batches to prevent overcrowding. Cook, turning once, until golden on both sides and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Drain the finished fritters on paper towels and transfer them to the warm oven until all are finished. Serve hot or at room temperature with yogurt if you like.

Baked Apricots with Phyllo Topping

Makes: 4 serving

Time: About 1 hour, largely unattended

Here’s an impressive but simple dessert based on a classic Turkish dish called tel kadayif. If you can’t serve it warm from the oven, make it up to a few hours ahead and gently reheat it. Topping the apricots with a little scoop of vanilla ice cream or dollop of whipped cream isn’t necessary but sure doesn’t hurt.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the pan

12 apricots, halved and pitted

Juice of 1 lemon

8 sheets phyllo dough, whole wheat, preferably

¼ cup brown sugar

½ cup chopped pistachios

¼ cup whole wheat flour

Pinch of salt

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square or round baking dish with a little butter. Put the apricots cut side up in the dish and drizzle with the lemon juice.

2. Shred the phyllo by hand or by pulsing it in a food processor. Toss it with the 2 tablespoons butter, sugar, pistachios, flour, and salt. The mixture is supposed to be crumbly and not hold together like a dough.

3. Scatter the topping over the apricots. Bake until the apricots are soft and the topping is golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes. Serve warm from the oven if you can.

Grilled (or Broiled) Peaches with Maple-Brandy Cream

Makes: 4 serving

Time: 20 minutes or less

Stone fruit is lovely when grilled or broiled just long enough to deepen its color and flavor and is even better paired with spiked, lightly sweetened whipped cream. Use your judgment about adding brown sugar to the peaches; perfectly juicy peaches probably won’t need it, but less-than-ripe peaches might. To make this a little fancier, top with julienned mint leaves and/or toasted slivered almonds.

4 peaches, halved and pitted

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2 tablespoons brown sugar, optional

¾ cup cream

3 tablespoons maple syrup

2 tablespoons brandy

1. Prepare a grill or turn on the broiler; the heat should be medium-high and the rack about 4 inches from the fire. Brush the peaches on both sides with the butter. Starting with the cut side facing the fire, grill or broil until as softened and marked as you like, anywhere from 3 to 5 minutes. Turn, sprinkle with brown sugar if you like, and grill the skin side the same way.

2. When the peaches are done, beat the cream in a glass or metal bowl until it’s doubled in volume and medium peaks form. (When you remove the beaters or whisk, a solid but soft peak will fold over but not onto itself.) Beat in the maple syrup and brandy. Serve the peaches hot or warm, topped with the whipped cream.

Grilled Peaches with Grappa Mascarpone. Omit the maple syrup. Use softened mascarpone cheese in place of the heavy cream (it will not double in volume, but it’s quite rich, so you won’t need much) and grappa in place of the brandy.

Frozen Chocolate Bananas

Makes: 4 serving

Time: 20 minutes

Your first instinct might be to make these for kids, but adults love them too. Bananas—especially slightly overripe ones—freeze into hard but creamy sticks with the texture of Creamsicles. If you’re serving a crowd, make several chocolate bananas and several chocolate pineapples (see the variation) and set out assorted nuts, coconut, and crushed cookies so that your guests can dress their own.

4 ripe (but not brown) bananas, bottoms trimmed, but unpeeled

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped

¼ cup cream

½ cup chopped peanuts or cashews, optional

1. Impale each banana lengthwise with a wooden skewer; freeze for at least 15 minutes or wrap tightly in plastic or foil and freeze for up to a week.

2. Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, a small saucepan over very low heat, or the microwave. Whisk in the cream and transfer the chocolate mixture to a shallow bowl. If you’re using nuts, put them on a plate next to the melted chocolate.

3. Peel the bananas, dip them first in the chocolate, then in the nuts. Eat immediately or put them in a wax-paper-lined airtight container and freeze them for up to a day or so.

Frozen Chocolate Pineapple. Shredded, unsweetened coconut is a nice topping here. Instead of the bananas, trim, peel, and core a small pineapple, then cut it lengthwise into 8 spears. Proceed with the recipe from Step 1.

Honey-Melon Soup

Makes: 4 serving

Time: About 1 hour, largely unattended

When the weather is too hot to bake but you want dessert, this soup is one terrific way to go. Though the mixture keeps in the refrigerator for a couple of days, it’s best within a couple of hours of making it. And since everything comes together so quickly, it’s never much of a hassle to prepare right before dinner, which leaves it plenty of time to cool before you’re ready to eat.

¼ cup honey

1 sprig fresh rosemary or lavender

1 cantaloupe or honeydew melon, about 2 pounds, flesh seeded, removed from the rind, and cut into large chunks

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon or lime

¼ cup rum, optional

1. Combine the honey and herb with ½ cup water in a small pot; bring to a boil and cook until the honey dissolves, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat and let steep for about 10 minutes. Discard the herb and let the syrup cool to room temperature. (You can make the syrup a few days ahead of time and store it in the refrigerator.)

2. Put the melon in a blender; add the lemon or lime zest and juice, the rum if you’re using it, and the honey syrup. Purée until liquefied. Pour through a fine-mesh strainer set over a large bowl; press down on the pulp to squeeze as much juice out as you can. Chill the soup for at least 30 minutes before serving.