Since most of us grew up eating deli-style sandwiches (where the main feature is an inch-thick layer of meat) and pizzas piled with mozzarella and pepperoni, the recipes in this chapter will not seem traditional. And they’re not, by twentieth-century American standards. But these pizzas, wraps, and sandwiches will expand your thinking, helping you to move beyond (or continue to move beyond, if you’ve already changed direction) lunch meats and cheeses into a different kind of tradition, the realm of vegetable-oriented—or at least vegetable-enhanced—fillings and toppings.

As with the other recipes in this book, the ratio of meat to plants is more in tune with the way people used to eat than the way we have in the last sixty years or so. That is to say I’ve offered some suggestions about when and where to add cheese, meat, fish, or poultry, but they’re used as flavorings, not as bulk. And trust me: You won’t be stuck eating shredded lettuce between two pieces of bread.

This chapter also includes a bunch of fantastic from-scratch savory baked goods: quick whole grain breads—including skillet-made flatbreads and griddle cakes—as well as a few easily made yeasted breads and a killer pizza dough, almost all of which are entirely whole grain, or nearly so.

TLB: Tomato, Lettuce, and Bacon Sandwiches

Makes: 2 sandwiches

Time: 20 minutes

A model sandwich: Just flip the usual ratio of “B” to that of “LT” and take it from there, making this a formula you can use to spin many of the classics without losing their essence. Here, after cooking the bacon, let the tomato slices warm in the residual heat for a minute or two before assembling the sandwich. Right before you bring the bread slices together, drizzle the remaining pan juices over all; you’ll get terrific flavor that way.

2 to 4 bacon slices

2 large ripe tomatoes (about 12 ounces total), sliced crosswise

Mayonnaise to taste (for homemade, see page 188)

4 slices bread, preferably whole grain, toasted

Salt and black pepper

6 to 8 leaves romaine, iceberg, or butter lettuce, torn into large pieces

1. Put the bacon in a cold skillet and set it over medium heat. Cook the bacon, turning as needed, until as crisp or chewy as you like it, anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes. Drain on towels for a bit, then break each strip into several pieces. If you like, after turning off the heat, warm the tomato slices in the pan as described in the headnote.

2. Spread a bit of mayonnaise on each slice of toasted bread. Top with the tomato slices (and their juices if warmed in the pan) and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Distribute the bacon pieces over the tomatoes on one side and pile the lettuce up on the other. Bring the bread together to finish the sandwich. Cut in half if you like and serve.

FAP: Fig, Arugula, and Prosciutto. In Step 1, cook a couple thin slices prosciutto in the skillet on both sides for a few minutes. Proceed with making the sandwich, using olive oil for the mayo, sliced fresh figs for the tomatoes, and a couple handfuls of arugula instead of the lettuce.

CSS: Cucumber, Sprouts, and Smoked Fish. Skip Step 1. Break a couple ounces smoked salmon or other smoked fish into large flakes. Proceed with making the sandwich, using coarse mustard for the mayo; sliced, peeled, and seeded cucumber for the tomatoes; and a couple handfuls of alfalfa sprouts and thinly sliced red onion instead of the lettuce.

Mediterranean Club Sandwich

Makes: 2 to 4 servings

Time: About 25 minutes with cooked chickpeas

Mashed chickpeas, tahini-yogurt sauce, fresh veggies, and briny olives tucked among layers of pita makes an immensely appealing club-style sandwich. If you’re in a hurry (or have pocketless pita), don’t bother splitting the rounds; just smear, layer, and stack the ingredients among three pieces of bread, then cut like a pie. Or abandon the layering altogether and use the filling ingredients to make three simple taco-style wraps.

For more filling ideas, see the list of ingredients, or use your favorite fresh or cooked veggies and condiments. But resist the urge to overstuff.

3 whole wheat pitas with pockets (or without; see the headnote)

1 cup cooked or canned chickpeas, drained, some liquid reserved

1 tablespoon olive oil, or more as needed

1 teaspoon cumin or pimentón (smoked paprika)

Salt and black pepper

¼ cup tahini

¼ cup plain yogurt, preferably whole milk

Juice of 1 lemon

1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced

2 cups bite-size pieces lettuce or assorted salad greens

2 ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced

⅓ cup oil-cured black olives, pitted and chopped

1. If you’d like the pitas toasted, heat the oven to 450°F. Split the breads in half like English muffins to create 6 thin rounds. Put them on a baking sheet and cook, flipping once, until just barely crunchy, 5 to 10 minutes total.

2. Meanwhile, mash the chickpeas (by hand or in a food processor) with the oil, cumin, and some salt and pepper. Add a few drops of bean liquid as necessary to make a thick but spreadable mixture. In a separate small bowl, whisk together the tahini, yogurt, and lemon juice. Season with a little salt and pepper.

3. Whether you have 3 pita rounds or 6, spread some of the mashed chickpeas on one of the pita layers and top with some cucumber and lettuce. Top with another pita layer, spread with the tahini mixture, and add some tomato and black olives. Repeat until all the ingredients are gone and drizzle with more oil if you like. You’ll end up with a tall sandwich that looks a little like a layer cake. Secure each quarter of the sandwich with a toothpick, then cut the circle in half and in half again. Serve immediately.

Upside-Down Tuna Salad Sandwich

Makes: 4 sandwiches

Time: 20 minutes

When you finely chop vegetables—which is quickly accomplished in a food processor—and bind them with tuna, olive oil, and a little mayonnaise, the results are more like a true salad than the typical tuna-and-mayo. The variations extend the same idea to egg, chicken, shrimp, and crab salads, using other fruits and vegetables.

2 carrots, cut into chunks

2 celery stalks, cut into chunks

2 scallions, cut into chunks

½ cup cooked or canned cannellini or other white beans, drained

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons mayonnaise (for homemade, see page 188)

One 6-ounce can tuna, preferably packed in olive oil, drained

Salt and black pepper

8 slices bread, preferably whole wheat, toasted or not

2 cups shredded lettuce

1. In a food processor (or by hand if you prefer), pulse (or chop) the carrots, celery, and scallions until they are in small bits but have not yet become mush. Add the white beans, lemon zest and juice, oil, and mayonnaise and pulse 3 or 4 times (or mash with a fork if you’re working by hand).

2. Fold the tuna into the vegetable mixture. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Divide the salad among 4 slices of bread and top with shredded lettuce and another slice of bread. Press and gently, cut in half if you like, and serve immediately.

Upside-Down Egg Salad Sandwich. Substitute several radishes for the carrots, ¼ cup pitted black olives for one 1 of the scallions, and chickpeas for the white beans. Instead of the tuna, fold in 3 chopped hard-boiled eggs; use alfalfa sprouts instead of lettuce if you like.

Upside-Down Chicken Salad Sandwich. Use a cored green apple instead of the carrots and a small wedge of cabbage instead of the celery. Add a little Dijon mustard if you like. Instead of the tuna, fold in about 6 ounces chopped cooked chicken.

Upside-Down Shrimp Salad Sandwich. Use a red bell pepper for the carrots, a mango for the celery, black beans for the white beans, and lime for the lemon. Season with a pinch of chili powder. Instead of the tuna, fold in about 6 ounces chopped cooked shrimp.

Upside-Down Crab Salad Sandwich. Substitute 1 cup fresh corn kernels for the carrots, ½ cup fresh cilantro for the celery, a cubed avocado for the beans, and a lime for the lemon. Instead of the tuna, fold in about 6 ounces cooked crab meat.

Grilled Tomato Sandwich, With or Without Cheese

Makes: 1 sandwich

Time: 10 minutes

When tomatoes are in season, you need them on sandwiches. (When they aren’t, see the variation.) The idea here is to grill the bread just long enough so the outside is crisp and the tomatoes barely warm and juicy. A little cheese helps hold everything together and adds richness, but you can also try this with a smear of mayo (for homemade, see page 188) or Any-Herb Pesto (page 197) on the inside. (Plums or peaches also work well instead of tomatoes, especially with blue cheese.) To make more than one sandwich at a time, assemble as many as you want on a baking sheet and broil them instead.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tomato, thickly sliced

2 thick slices bread, preferably whole grain

Salt and black pepper

4 or more fresh basil leaves

Sprinkling of grated mozzarella or Parmesan, optional

1. Put the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Lay the tomato slices on one slice of bread. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then top with the basil leaves, cheese if you’re using it, and the second slice of bread.

2. When the oil is hot, add the sandwich to the pan and cook until the bottom is golden brown and crisp. Carefully flip and continue cooking until the second side is browned and the insides are warm, pressing down gently with a spatula to meld the slices together. Cut in half if you like and serve immediately.

Grilled Avocado and Black Bean Sandwich. Omit the tomatoes, basil, and cheese. Roughly mash up cooked black beans with a fork and spread on one slice of bread. Sprinkle with chili powder, salt, and pepper. Top with half an avocado, sliced, and chopped pickles and close the sandwich. Proceed with the recipe. Serve with Homemade Salsa (page 195) on the side.

More-or-Less Muffuletta

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

New Orleans–style muffuletta is one of the truly classic American creations, and though cold cuts and cheeses are typical, it’s really the salad-like relish that makes the sandwich memorable. This interpretation combines quickly marinated chopped olives and vegetables with eggplant for a more manageable sandwich.

1 medium or 2 small eggplants, cut into ½-inch slices

Salt

4 tablespoons olive oil, or more as needed

Black pepper

½ cup brine-cured black olives, pitted and chopped

½ cup green olives, pitted and chopped

2 tablespoons capers

¼ cup chopped red onion

2 celery stalks, chopped

1 small red bell pepper, preferably roasted (page 417), chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon sherry or wine vinegar

4 crusty sandwich rolls or buns, preferably whole grain

2 ripe tomatoes, sliced

1. If time allows, sprinkle the eggplant liberally with salt, let rest in a colander for at least 20 minutes or up to an hour, rinse, and pat dry. Turn on the broiler; the heat should be medium-high and the rack about 4 inches from the fire. Brush both sides of the eggplant slices with some of the oil, put it on a baking sheet, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil until tender and browned on both sides, turning once or twice, 10 minutes or less total. Let cool slightly before handling.

2. Meanwhile, combine the black and green olives, capers, onion, celery, bell pepper, oregano, garlic, vinegar, 2 tablespoons of the oil, and a sprinkle of pepper in a medium bowl.

3. Slice the rolls in half horizontally and use your fingers to remove some of their doughy insides to make room for the fillings. Spread the olive salad evenly on all of the pieces of bread and drizzle with any leftover juices. Top half of them with the eggplant and tomato slices. Close the sandwiches and serve immediately.

More-or-Less Pan Bagnat. The Provençal specialty. Omit the olives, capers, and celery. While the eggplant is broiling, cook the bell pepper and onion with 2 cups sliced mushrooms in 2 tablespoons olive oil in a medium skillet; when softened, toss with the remaining salad ingredients. Layer romaine lettuce leaves between the vegetables and the eggplant, and add a little shredded cooked chicken or a couple anchovies to each sandwich if you like. After closing the sandwiches, wrap them well in foil, put them between 2 large plates, and weigh down the top plate with something heavy, like a cast-iron skillet or some cans of tomatoes. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving.

Tofu-Peanut or Tofu-Sesame Wrap

Makes: 4 wraps

Time: 30 minutes

When thinly sliced, brushed with a sweet and spicy glaze, and broiled or grilled, tofu—especially when pressed or frozen first—develops a meaty texture and more intense flavor. Pair it with peanut butter and bright fresh veggies, and you’ve got a sandwich reminiscent of pad Thai.

Cook the full amount of tofu even if you’re making only one wrap; it keeps well in the fridge for up to a week.

¼ cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons sesame oil

2 teaspoons honey

1 fresh hot chile (like Thai or jalapeño), seeded and minced, optional

1 block firm tofu (about 1 pound), frozen or squeezed dry (see page 177), cut into ½-inch slices

Salt

4 whole wheat lavash or large whole wheat tortillas

4 tablespoons peanut butter or tahini

2 carrots, grated or julienned

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

2 scallions, chopped

2 cups shredded lettuce or bean sprouts

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 lime, halved

1. Prepare a grill or turn on the broiler; the heat should be medium-high and the rack about 4 inches from the fire. Combine the soy sauce, sesame oil, honey, and chile in a small bowl. Pat the tofu dry if necessary, sprinkle lightly with salt, and brush with some of the soy glaze on all sides, reserving the rest. Grill or broil the tofu until nicely browned (watch it so it doesn’t burn), then turn the pieces and do the same on the second side. The total cooking time will be less than 10 minutes. (The tofu can be cooled and stored in an airtight container for up to a week at this point.)

2. To warm the wrappers, stack the lavash or tortillas and roll them up in a piece of foil; set them on a rack under the tofu in the oven or over indirect heat if you’re using the grill. While the tofu cooks, let them heat enough to become just pliable.

3. To assemble the sandwiches, spread 1 tablespoon peanut butter on each of the flatbreads and evenly distribute the carrots, tomatoes, scallions, lettuce, cilantro, and tofu on top. Drizzle with the reserved sauce and squeeze lime juice over all. Roll up the wraps, cut in half if you like, and serve.

Shrimp-Cashew Wrap. Use cashew butter instead of peanut butter and shredded Napa cabbage for the lettuce. Instead of tofu, use 8 medium shrimp, peeled and split in half lengthwise. Toss the shrimp in 2 tablespoons of the glaze, keeping the rest separate for drizzling. Proceed with the recipe. The shrimp halves will take only a minute or 2 to cook, so watch them closely; they’re ready when they just turn opaque.

Beans ’n Greens Burritos

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Terrific basic burritos that freeze well: Just wrap them individually in foil or wax paper and freeze in a tightly sealed container. Then you always have them handy to reheat in the microwave or oven. Check the list that follows for a variety of other combos.

4 large or 8 small whole wheat flour tortillas

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon chili powder

Salt and black pepper

1 bunch kale (about 1 pound), roughly chopped

2 cups cooked or canned black beans, drained, liquid reserved

½ cup crumbled queso fresco or feta cheese, optional

Pico de gallo (page 46)

1. Heat the oven to 300°F. Stack the tortillas and roll them up in a sheet of foil. Put them in the oven to warm while you cook the filling.

2. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and beginning to color, 5 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the chili powder and salt and pepper. Add the kale and cook, stirring occasionally, until it wilts and releases its liquid, about 5 minutes. Stir in the black beans; mash them up a bit with a fork or potato masher and add a spoonful of the reserved liquid if the mixture seems dry.

3. To roll each burrito, lay a tortilla on a flat surface and put ¼ of the filling (or ⅛ if you’re using small tortillas) on the third closest to you. Sprinkle with some of the cheese if you’re using it. Fold the tortilla over from the bottom to cover the beans and greens, then fold in the 2 sides to fully enclose them; finish rolling and put the burrito seam side down on a plate. Serve with pico de gallo on the side.

Beans ’n Greens ’n Meat Burritos. Begin by browning 8 ounces of chorizo, chopped ham, sausage, or ground meat in the oil until warm or cooked through in Step 2. Then add the onion and garlic and continue with the recipe.

Fish Tacos with Wilted Cabbage

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Fish tacos in soft corn tortillas, a Cal-Mex standard, are usually served with shredded raw cabbage as a garnish. But if you stir-fry the cabbage with a little fish (or shrimp if you prefer), the flavors blend together nicely and the vegetables gain a silky-yet-crunchy texture that folds perfectly into the tortilla. This quick cooking technique works on all sorts of combos; just make sure you cut the fish, meat, or whatever into bite-size pieces and grate, shred, or finely chop the vegetable.

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 fresh hot chile (like jalapeño), seeded and minced, optional

About 8 ounces firm white fish (see page 22), cut into 1-inch chunks

Salt and black pepper

1 large head cabbage, (about 1½ pounds), cored and shredded

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Juice of 1 lime

1 tablespoon chili powder

12 corn tortillas

1 cup chopped ripe tomato or tomatillos

1 avocado, skin and pit removed, cubed, optional

1. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the chile if you’re using it, along with the fish; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring once or twice, until the fish is opaque and just cooked through, about 2 minutes. Remove from the skillet and raise the heat to high.

2. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan along with the cabbage, 1 to 2 tablespoons water, and another sprinkling of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring almost constantly, until the cabbage just begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the cilantro, lime juice, chili powder, and fish. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

3. Warm the tortillas one at a time in a dry skillet over medium heat (they take just a few seconds on each side), or wrap the pile in a damp kitchen towel and pop it in the microwave for 30 to 60 seconds on high. Put 3 tortillas on each individual plate. Distribute the fish and cabbage mixture evenly over the tortillas, garnish each with tomato and avocado if you’re using it, and serve.

Spicy Sweet Potato and Pork Tacos. Substitute bite-size pieces of boneless pork loin or shoulder for the fish and use peeled and grated sweet potatoes instead of the cabbage. Garnish with 1 cup chopped radishes instead of the tomato or tomatillos and avocado.

Easy Whole Grain Flatbread

Makes: 4 to 8 servings

Time: About 1 hour, largely unattended (longer for resting if time allows)

The batter for this flatbread requires less than a minute to put together and takes perfectly to all sorts of flavorings, mostly savory but sweet as well. (See the list that follows for some potential add-ins.)

With a batter this simple, controlling some of the other variables will make the bread come out exactly as you want it every time. So bear with me here for a little detail:

If you let the batter rest for up to 12 hours, the bread will have a creamier, less gritty texture and a more complex flavor. These are subtle distinctions, though; the bread is fantastic even if you only let the batter rest while the oven heats. Really.

You can make this bread in a 10-inch pan or skillet too. It will be thicker and take another 5 to 10 minutes to cook. That’s all.

The amount of oil you need will vary depending on the surface of your pan. With a well-seasoned cast-iron (or nonstick) skillet, use just 2 tablespoons oil; with seasoned steel, try 3 tablespoons; for stainless steel, you’ll be safest with all 4. Don’t worry about the bread getting greasy. It will only absorb what it needs to release from the pan’s surface—excess oil will stay in the pan.

You can increase the oven temperature to 450°F to create a faster, crisper bread, but watch the time and check the bottom after about 20 minutes. With this method, you will need to flip the flatbread once it sets up to ensure even browning.

If you cut the quantity of water down to 1 cup, you’ll get a slightly more dense, cracker-like bread; add a full 1½ cups water and the bread is still sliceable but a little custardy inside. I like it both ways.

1 cup whole wheat flour, cornmeal (fine or medium grind), or chickpea flour (besan), or a combination

1 teaspoon salt

2 to 4 tablespoons olive oil (see the headnote)

½ large onion, halved and thinly sliced, optional

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, optional

1. Put the flour in a bowl and add the salt. Slowly add 1¼ cups water, whisking to eliminate lumps. The batter should be the consistency of thin pancake batter. If it’s not, whisk up to another ¼ cup water into the mixture, 1 tablespoon at a time. Cover with a towel and let sit while the oven heats, or as long as 12 hours.

2. When ready to bake, heat the oven to 400°F. Put the oil in a 12-inch rimmed pizza pan or skillet and put in the heated oven. Wait a couple minutes for the oil to get hot but not smoking; the oil is ready when you just start to smell it. Carefully remove the pan. Add the onion and rosemary if you’re using them and give them a little stir. Pour in the batter, gently swirl the pan to distribute the oil, and return the skillet to the oven.

3. Bake until the flatbread is well browned, firm, and crisp around the edges, about 45 minutes. (It will release easily from the pan when it’s done.) Let it rest for a couple minutes before cutting it into wedges or squares.

Easy Skillet Pizza

Makes: 4 to 8 serving

Time: About 1 hour, including time to make the flatbread

Easy Whole Grain Flatbread (page 512) is the basic dough for this simple skillet pizza, which you can make up to a few hours ahead or freeze for even longer. This topping is like a deconstructed pesto, but you can top it with almost anything, including a smear of tomato sauce and a sprinkling of mozzarella.

1 recipe Easy Whole Grain Flatbread, fully baked (page 512)

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

2 tablespoons pine nuts

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Black pepper or red chile flakes

1. Turn on the broiler; the heat should be medium-high and the rack about 4 inches from the fire. When the flatbread is done and out of the oven, top with the basil and pine nuts, drizzle with the oil, and sprinkle with the cheese and pepper.

2. Broil the flatbread until the Parmesan is bubbling, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the broiler and let the pizza rest for a few minutes. Slide the pizza out of the pan, cut into wedges or squares, and serve hot or at room temperature.

Chile-Cornbread Skillet Pizza. Use all cornmeal in the Easy Whole Grain Flatbread recipe. Top with a little fresh tomato salsa (for homemade, see page 46) or a thinly sliced tomato with some chopped fresh chiles and onions. Use cheddar or Jack cheese instead of the Parmesan.

Fennel and Goat Cheese Skillet Pizza. Instead of the herb and pine nuts, top with about ½ cup thinly sliced fennel, and use crumbled goat cheese instead of the Parmesan.

Olive and Garlic Skillet Pizza. Omit the basil and Parmesan. Top with ½ cup pitted, chopped olives, pine nuts, 1 tablespoon minced garlic, and 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary. Drizzle with another tablespoon oil before broiling.

Roasted Mushroom Quesadillas

Makes: 2 serving

Time: About 1 hour, largely unattended

Because whole wheat tortillas bake up flakier than their white flour counterparts, these quesadillas are almost like savory pastries, with just enough cheese to hold everything together. The sage adds a nice touch (especially if the filling also contains a little crumbled bacon, chopped chorizo, or flaked smoked trout or whitefish). Serve with a spoonful of Loaded Guacamole (page 458) or Apple Slaw (page 154) on the side.

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for greasing the pan

About 1 pound button or cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced

Salt and black pepper

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 fresh hot chile (like jalapeño), minced, or pinch of red chile flakes, or to taste

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage, or 1 teaspoon dried

2 large whole wheat tortillas

¼ cup grated Mexican-style melting cheese (like cotija or Monterey Jack)

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Put the 2 tablespoons oil in a large ovenproof skillet and put it in the oven for a few minutes. When it’s hot—fragrant, but not smoking—add the mushrooms, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and stir. Return to the oven and check after 20 minutes or so; the mushrooms should be releasing their water.

2. Stir in the garlic, chile, and sage. Continue to roast, stirring every 10 minutes, until the mushrooms are fairly dry and deeply colored; total time will be about 40 minutes. (You can make the mushrooms ahead up to this point; cover and refrigerate for up to a day and bring to room temperature before proceeding.)

3. Meanwhile, generously grease a large baking sheet and spread the tortillas on it. (It’s okay if they overlap a bit.) Sprinkle the cheese over both. When the mushrooms are done, taste and adjust the seasoning and scatter them over the top.

4. Bake the tortillas until the cheese begins to melt, about 10 minutes. Fold each tortilla in half and press down gently. Bake for another 5 minutes, then flip them over and swirl them around the pan to coat in the oil. Bake for another 5 minutes until well toasted and crisp. Cut into wedges and serve.

Flatbread with Vegetables

Makes: 4 to 8 serving

Time: About 1½ hours, largely unattended

The basic flatbread batter on page 512 is also an excellent springboard for a heartier side dish, light meal, or snack. (Be sure to check out the guidelines in the headnote on that page; they apply here too.) A few possibilities are listed here in the main recipe, but also try grated sweet potatoes or zucchini, chopped eggplant or carrots, or other vegetables.

In fact, the basic batter will hold up to 4 cups of any cooked vegetable, meat, or a combination, so you can also experiment with leftovers; cooked chopped greens or plain-cooked beans and grains are all good. To vary the flavorings, use water instead of the coconut milk and whatever seasonings you like.

About 2 pounds broccoli, broccoli rabe, or cauliflower, roughly chopped

3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil (see the headnote on page 512)

Salt and black pepper

1 cup whole wheat flour

One 14-ounce can coconut milk (light is best here) or water

2 teaspoons cumin

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Put the vegetables in a roasting pan or on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss. Spread out into a single layer and roast until the pieces are just tender and browned in spots, tossing with a spatula halfway through, for a total of 15 to 20 minutes.

2. While the vegetables are roasting, put the flour into a bowl; add a pinch of salt and the coconut milk, whisking to eliminate lumps. The batter should be about the consistency of pancake batter. Cover with a towel and let sit while the vegetables roast.

3. When the vegetables are finished roasting, sprinkle them with the cumin and toss. You should have about 4 cups of this mixture; fold it into the batter.

4. Pour the remaining oil in a 12-inch rimmed pizza pan or skillet and put in the heated oven. (Use just 2 tablespoons if your skillet is well-seasoned cast iron or nonstick). Wait a couple of minutes for the oil to get hot but not smoking; the oil is ready when you just start to smell it. Carefully remove the pan, pour in the batter, spread it around evenly, and return the skillet to the oven. Bake for about 1 hour, until the flatbread is well browned, firm, and crisp around the edges. (It will release easily from the pan when it’s done.) Let it rest for a couple minutes (or up to an hour or 2) before cutting it into wedges or squares.

Lentil (or Other Bean) Flatbread

Makes: 4 to 8 serving

Time: About 1 hour with precooked lentils

Here’s yet another spin on Easy Whole Grain Flatbread (page 512; be sure to check out the basic instructions there before making this). If you don’t have leftover cooked lentils handy (or other beans for that matter), make a fresh batch and save the rest. You can even use drained canned beans in a pinch.

1 cup whole wheat flour

Salt

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil (see the headnote on page 512)

1 shallot, chopped

1½ cups cooked or canned lentils or beans, drained

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon, sage, or thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried sage or thyme, or ½ teaspoon dried tarragon

Black pepper

1. Put the flour in a bowl and add 1 teaspoon salt. Slowly add 1¼ cups water, whisking to eliminate lumps. The batter should be the consistency of thin pancake batter. If it’s not, whisk up to another ¼ cup water into the mixture, 1 tablespoon at a time. Cover with a towel and let sit while the oven heats, or as long as 12 hours.

2. Heat the oven to 400°F. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until it becomes translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the lentils, herb, a sprinkle of salt, and lots of black pepper and cook for 1 minute. Stir the lentil mixture into the batter.

3. Wipe out the skillet, add the remaining oil, and put it in the heated oven. (Use just 2 tablespoons if your skillet is well-seasoned cast iron or nonstick.) Wait a couple of minutes for the oil to get hot but not smoking; the oil is ready when you just start to smell it. Carefully remove the pan, pour in the batter, spread it around evenly, and return the skillet to the oven. Bake until the flatbread is well browned, firm, and crisp around the edges, about 1 hour. (It will release easily from the pan when it’s done.) Let it rest for a couple minutes (or up to an hour or 2) before cutting it into wedges or squares.

Flatbread with Beans and Sausage or Ham. Before adding the shallot to the skillet in Step 2, fry about 4 ounces crumbled sausage or chopped ham in the olive oil.

Loaded Cornpone

Makes: 4 serving

Time: 30 minutes

This spin on Southern-style cornbread (or New England johnnycakes) is made like pancakes in a skillet instead of bread in the oven. The simplicity of the batter makes it the perfect vehicle for any number of added ingredients and seasonings; have at it with some ideas for stir-ins from the list that follows on page 520. I wouldn’t make these more than a couple hours in advance, but they do reheat well wrapped in foil and warmed in a 300°F oven for 15 minutes or so.

1½ cups cornmeal (fine or medium grind)

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon black pepper, optional

1½ cups boiling water

½ cup buttermilk or whole milk, or more as needed, optional

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for frying

1 cup corn kernels (frozen are fine)

1. Heat the oven to 200°F. In a bowl, combine the cornmeal, salt, pepper if you’re using it, and boiling water and let it sit until the cornmeal absorbs the water and softens, 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Stir in the buttermilk (or just use more water), a little at a time, until the batter is spreadable but still thick. Stir in 2 tablespoons oil and the corn and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3. Put a large skillet or griddle (cast iron if you have it) over medium heat. When a few drops of water dance on its surface, add a thin film of oil and let it get hot. Working in batches, spoon the batter onto the griddle or skillet, making any size pancakes you like. Cook until bubbles appear and burst on the top and the underside is golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes; turn and cook on the other side until golden. Transfer the cooked cakes to the warm oven and continue with the next batch. Serve warm.

Brown Rice Scallion Pancakes

Makes: 4 serving

Time: 20 minutes

Brown rice gives these a nuttier flavor and heartier texture than scallion pancakes made entirely with all-purpose flour, but they’re just as pliable. If you can’t find brown rice flour—it’s usually available in natural food stores and even some supermarkets—it’s easy to make with a food processor or blender (see Step 1). If you’re planning on serving these as finger food, rather than along with a larger meal, be sure to make the quick dipping sauce.

¾ cup brown rice flour or short-grain brown rice

¼ cup all-purpose flour

1½ cups boiling water

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus more for frying

Salt and black pepper

4 scallions, green parts only (save the bottoms for another use), or 1 small bunch fresh chives

1 egg

½ cup soy sauce, optional

1 tablespoon minced ginger, optional

1. Heat the oven to 200°F. If you don’t have brown rice flour, grind the rice in a food processor or blender for several minutes until it becomes the consistency of cornmeal. Whisk together the flours, boiling water, sesame oil, 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, and a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper. Let the batter rest while you heat the pan or griddle or up to 1 hour or so.

2. Put a large skillet or griddle over medium heat. Cut the scallion tops into several long pieces, then slice thinly into slivers. Stir them into the batter along with the egg. The batter should be thinner than pancake batter but thickly coat the back of a spoon; add more all-purpose flour or boiling water, a little at a time, to get it the right consistency. If you’re making the dipping sauce, stir together the soy sauce and ginger.

3. When a few drops of water dance on the surface of the skillet or griddle, add a thin film of oil and let it get hot. Ladle the batter onto the griddle or skillet, making any size pancakes you like; be careful not to crowd them. Cook the pancakes until crisp and golden on the bottom, about 5 minutes; flip them and brown the other side for 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the finished pancakes to the oven to stay warm while you cook the remaining batter. Serve warm, with the dipping sauce if you like.

Brown Rice Black Bean Pancakes. Substitute 2 tablespoons fermented black beans for the scallions and add ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro to the batter. Serve with rice vinegar for dipping.

Brown Rice Chile Pancakes. Substitute 1 (or more) chopped fresh chiles (like jalapeño, serrano, or poblano) for the scallions; ½ cup chopped cilantro is optional but nice.

Whole Wheat Chapatis

Makes: 8 to 12 chapatis

Time: At least 1 hour

Few recipes are as impressive or simple as chapati, the puckered flatbread from India. This version is 100 percent whole wheat, which means it is just a tad stiff to roll out, but also full of flavor.

Sometimes I sift the flour first, because the wheat germ can burn and get a little bitter, but if you want all the fiber (and don’t mind the mildly charred taste), skip this step. You can also adjust the flavor of the chapatis by substituting up to ½ cup of the flour with cornmeal or chickpea flour.

Chapati dough comes together quickly in a food processor, but it’s easy enough to use a bowl and wooden spoon (and eventually your hands). Just be sure to keep working until the dough loses its stickiness.

3 cups whole wheat flour

1 teaspoon salt

1½ cups warm water

All-purpose flour, for rolling the dough

1. If you want to remove the bran (see the headnote), set a fine-mesh strainer or a flour sifter over a food processor, add the flour, and sift. Discard the bran or save for another use. If you’re not sifting, put the flour in the processor and skip to Step 2.

2. Add the salt to the flour and, with the machine running, pour in the water. Process for about 30 seconds; the dough should form a barely sticky, easy-to-handle ball. If it’s too dry, add more water 1 tablespoon at a time and process for 5 to 10 seconds after each addition. If too wet, which is unlikely, add 1 to 2 tablespoons flour and process briefly. Put the dough on a lightly floured surface, cover, and let rest for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. (The dough can be made ahead to this point. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate for up to a day; bring to room temperature before proceeding.)

3. Pinch off pieces of the dough; the recipe will make 8 to 12 chapatis. Using all-purpose flour as necessary on your hands and your work surface, pat each piece into a 4-inch disk. Dust lightly with flour to keep them from sticking and cover them with plastic or a damp cloth while you pat out the others. (It’s okay to overlap them a bit, but don’t stack them.)

4. Put a large skillet or griddle over medium heat. When a few drops of water dance on its surface, roll out a disk until it’s fairly thin, about ⅛ inch, dusting as necessary with flour; it doesn’t have to be perfectly round. Pat off the excess flour and put the chapati on the griddle or in the pan, count to 15 or so, and use a spatula to flip the bread over. Cook the other side until it starts to blister, char, and puff up a bit, about 1 minute (enough time to roll out the next disk). Turn and cook the first side again until dark and toasty smelling. Transfer to a cloth-lined basket and repeat until all are cooked. Serve immediately.

Mostly Whole Wheat Chapatis. Instead of all whole wheat flour, use 2¼ cups whole wheat flour and 1 cup all-purpose flour. Reduce the warm water to 1 cup to start, then add more as needed.

Grilled Chapatis. Works for either the main recipe or the variation. Prepare a grill to medium-high heat and put the rack about 4 inches from the fire. Oil the grates well. Roll all the chapatis out, flour them well, and stack between layers of wax or parchment paper. Cook the chapatis, several at a time, as described in Step 4, only directly on the grill grates. When they start to bubble, char, and puff up, turn.

Onion Chapati Turnovers

Makes: 18 turnovers

Time: About 1½ hours

These are somewhere between samosas and empanadas, but they’re easier to make than either. After adding the oil to the onions, cook them as long as you want—shorter and they’ll be light and mild; longer and they’ll be dark and jamlike.

Adding flavors only complements the onions’ sweetness: The first variation includes chutney spices. Or you might try some fresh herbs, a splash of soy sauce or coconut milk, or some chopped nuts. You can cut this recipe in half, but leftovers freeze beautifully and make great snacks, so I wouldn’t bother.

3 cups whole wheat flour

Salt

1 cup warm water

4 large onions, halved and sliced

¼ cup olive or vegetable oil, plus more for greasing the pans

All-purpose flour, for rolling the dough

1. If you want to remove the bran (see the headnote on page 522), set a fine-mesh strainer or a flour sifter over a food processor, add the flour, and sift. Discard the bran or save for another use. If you’re not sifting, put the flour in the processor and skip to Step 2.

2. Add 1 teaspoon salt to the flour and, with the machine running, pour in the warm water. Process for about 30 seconds; the dough should form a barely sticky, easy-to-handle ball. If it’s too dry, add more water 1 tablespoon at a time and process for 5 to 10 seconds after each addition. If too wet, which is unlikely, add 1 to 2 tablespoons flour and process briefly. Put the dough on a lightly floured surface, cover, and let rest for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. (The dough may be made ahead to this point. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate for up to a day; bring to room temperature before proceeding.)

3. Put the onions in a large skillet over medium heat. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are dry and almost sticking to the pan, 20 to 25 minutes. Stir in the oil and a large pinch of salt and turn the heat down to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes or longer, depending on how caramelized you want the onions to be.

4. Once the dough has rested, divide it into 18 pieces. Heat the oven to 450°F and grease a couple baking sheets. Using all-purpose flour as necessary for your hands and the board, pat or roll each piece into a thin 4½-inch circle. Top each circle with a heaping tablespoon of the onions and moisten the edges of the dough with a little water. Fold one edge over onto the other and press with the tines of a fork to close. Put the turnovers on the prepared baking sheets. Bake until the dough is golden brown and hot, flipping over once, 20 to 30 minutes total. Serve warm or at room temperature. (The turnovers will keep for a couple days wrapped or in a sealed container at room temperature or in the refrigerator and for months in the freezer; gently reheat before serving.)

Spiced Onion Chapati Turnovers. Stir 1 or 2 minced fresh hot chiles, 1 teaspoon mustard seeds, 1 teaspoon cumin, 1 teaspoon coriander, and 1 teaspoon brown sugar into the onions along with the oil and salt in Step 3.

Spiced Carrot Chapati Turnovers. Substitute 2 pounds chopped or grated carrots for the onions and use the same spice combination as in the first variation. The carrots will need at least 30 minutes additional cooking time once the spices have been added before they get tender—but they’re worth it.

Mostly Whole Wheat Tortillas

Makes: 8 tortillas

Time: About 1½ hours, partially unattended

They’re more than a little work, but fresh tortillas are a special treat, a good activity for kids, and a not-difficult process (especially with a food processor), similar to chapatis (page 512). A little white flour in the dough makes them flaky and easy to roll out. Note the corn tortilla variation.

1 cup whole wheat flour, plus more as needed

½ cup all-purpose or bread flour

¼ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, olive oil, softened butter, or lard

About ½ cup boiling water, or more as needed

1. In a bowl or food processor, mix together the flours and salt. Stir or pulse in the oil. Add the water slowly—a tablespoon or 2 at a time if you are mixing by hand or in a thin stream with the food processor running—until the dough holds together in a ball.

2. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until it becomes smooth and elastic (this will take about 4 to 5 minutes if you mixed the dough by hand, and about 1 minute if you used a food processor). Wrap the dough in plastic and let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to a couple hours (or in the fridge for up to a few days).

3. If you refrigerated the dough, bring it back to room temperature. Divide the dough into 8 pieces. On a lightly floured surface (or between floured hands), flatten each piece into a disk, then cover and rest again, this time for just a few minutes. When you’re ready to cook the tortillas, roll each disk out as thin as possible to a circle 8 inches or more in diameter, stacking them between sheets of plastic or wax paper as you work.

4. Put a large skillet—cast iron if you have one—over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes. Cook the tortillas one at a time until brown spots begin to appear on the bottom, less than a minute; turn and cook the other side. Total cooking time will be just a couple of minutes per tortilla. Wrap the finished tortillas in a towel to keep warm while you cook the rest. Serve immediately (or let them cool, wrap tightly, and store in the fridge for a few days or the freezer for up to a few months).

Corn Tortillas. Substitute masa harina (available in most supermarkets) for the flours. Proceed with the recipe above, adding 1 cup or more boiling water to bring the dough together. Since the dough will be stiffer and a bit stickier, divide it into 12 to 16 pieces in Step 3 and roll out each piece between sheets of plastic wrap dusted with flour to a diameter of 4 to 6 inches. Cook as described in Step 4.

Mostly Whole Wheat Crackers

Makes: About 4 serving

Time: 30 minutes

The small amount of white flour helps the dough roll out more easily and gives the crackers some flakiness. I like to stir some poppy or sesame seeds in with the dry ingredients, or sometimes even a little Parmesan cheese.

¼ cup all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

¾ cup whole wheat flour

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

Coarse salt, pepper, sesame or poppy seeds, minced garlic, or whatever you like for sprinkling, optional

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or lightly dust with all-purpose flour. Put the flours, salt, butter, and oil in a food processor and pulse until combined. (Or use a bowl and 2 forks or your fingers.) Add ¼ cup water and let the machine run for a bit; continue to add more water 1 teaspoon at a time until the mixture holds together but is not sticky.

2. Dust a work surface with a little all-purpose flour and roll out the dough ¼ inch thick or even thinner, adding flour as needed. Drape the sheet of dough over the rolling pin to transfer it to the prepared baking sheet. Score the top lightly with a sharp knife, pizza cutter, or pastry wheel if you want to break the crackers into squares or rectangles later on. Sprinkle with salt or other toppings if you like.

3. Bake until lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature or store in a tin for a few days.

Almost Whole Wheat Quick Bread

Makes: 4 to 6 serving

Time: About 1 hour, largely unattended

This bread, made with a combo of whole wheat and white flour (for lightness), is easy to make and a joy to vary. Fold in fresh herbs, grated cheeses, olives, dried tomatoes, ground spices, whole seeds, dried fruits, or chopped nuts after mixing the dough and removing it from the food processor. See the variations for some good combinations, or mix and match from the list below.

5 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups whole wheat flour, or more as needed

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1½ teaspoons salt, preferably coarse or sea salt, plus more for sprinkling

¾ cup yogurt or buttermilk

¾ cup warm water

2 tablespoons honey, optional

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease a baking sheet or 8-inch square baking pan with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Put the flours, baking powder, soda, and salt in a food processor and turn the machine on. Into the feed tube, pour first the remaining 4 tablespoons oil, then the yogurt or buttermilk, most of the water, and the honey if you’re using it.

2. Process for a few seconds until the dough is a well-defined, barely sticky, easy-to-handle ball. If it’s too dry, add the remaining water 1 tablespoon at a time and process for 5 to 10 seconds after each addition. If it is too wet (this is unlikely), add 1 to 2 tablespoons whole wheat flour and process briefly.

3. Form the dough into a round and put it on the baking sheet or press into the prepared pan, all the way to the edges. Bake for 20 minutes. Sprinkle the top with a little coarse salt and continue baking for another 35 to 40 minutes, until the loaf is firm and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool completely. Cut the bread into slices or squares and serve or store for up to a day.

Jalapeño-Cheddar Almost Whole Wheat Quick Bread. After processing the dough in Step 2, remove the dough from the machine and fold in ½ cup grated cheddar cheese and 1 seeded and minced jalapeño.

Dried Tomato and Roasted Garlic Almost Whole Wheat Quick Bread. After processing the dough in Step 2, remove it from the machine and fold in ½ cup chopped dried tomatoes, 3 mashed roasted garlic cloves (for homemade, see page 421), and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley.

Caramelized Onion, Olive, and Goat Cheese Almost Whole Wheat Quick Bread. After processing the dough in Step 2, remove it from the machine and fold in ½ cup caramelized onions (about 2 onions), ¼ cup pitted, chopped kalamata or oil-cured olives, and ¼ cup creamy goat cheese.

Black Pepper Hardtack

Makes: About 50 small biscuits

Time: About 1¼ hours

Hardtack—a thick crunchy cracker with a long shelf life—got a bad rap in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as a meager ration on long voyages or in the battlefield. Though in fairness I wouldn’t touch the original stuff—which was essentially flour and water, baked hard—with a modern treatment it makes a tremendously handy snack to dunk in coffee, tea, beer, or wine.

Though these will survive an ocean voyage in an airtight container, at my house they usually don’t survive more than a few days.

¼ cup olive oil, plus more for greasing the pans

2 cups rye flour

2 cups whole wheat flour

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons black peppercorns, freshly crushed or coarsely ground

All-purpose flour, for rolling the dough

1. Heat the oven to 325°F. Lightly grease 2 baking sheets with a little oil. Combine the rye and whole wheat flours, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl. Add 1⅓ cups water and the ¼ cup oil and stir until a thick dough forms.

2. With floured hands, divide the dough into 4 pieces and roll each into a rope about 1 inch thick. Cut each rope into 1-inch pieces. Use the palm of your hand or a floured glass to press each piece into a thick round; it’s okay if they’re shaped unevenly but you want them to be between ¼ and ½ inch thick. Prick the surface of each cracker with the tines of a fork a few times.

3. Transfer the crackers to the baking sheets. Bake until beginning to brown, about 30 minutes; turn them over and bake until the other side is browned, another 30 minutes or so. Cool and store in a tightly covered container for up to a couple of weeks.

Prosciutto-Black Pepper Hardtack. Before starting the recipe, heat the oil in a skillet and crisp ½ cup chopped prosciutto and sprinkle with the black pepper. Add this mixture to the dough along with the water. (Store these in the fridge or freezer and let come to room temperature before serving.)

Sweet Potato Muffins

Makes: 12 to 15 muffins, depending on their size

Time: 35 to 45 minutes

AKA: The lightest, fluffiest, easiest whole grain muffin ever. And I know of no better way to use leftover sweet potatoes (in fact, you will find yourself intentionally creating leftovers to have an excuse to make these). To vary the spices, try adding a teaspoon cinnamon, or a pinch of nutmeg, allspice, or chili powder instead of the ground ginger.

2½ cups whole wheat flour, preferably pastry flour

¾ cup sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ cup melted unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the pans

¼ cup vegetable oil

1 cup puréed or mashed cooked sweet potato

1 egg, beaten

½ cup buttermilk

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease 12 muffin cups or add paper liners. In a large bowl, mix together the flour, sugar, baking powder, ginger, soda, and salt. In another bowl, whisk together the butter, oil, sweet potato, egg, and buttermilk. Fold the wet mixture into the dry mixture and stir until just combined.

2. Fill the muffin cups at least three-quarters full. Bake until the muffins are puffed and turning golden brown on top, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve warm if possible.

Banana Nut Muffins. Reduce the sugar to ½ cup. Replace the sweet potato with 1 cup mashed bananas (really ripe bananas work best here) and add ½ cup chopped walnuts or almonds to the batter.

Pumpkin Coconut Muffins. Replace the sweet potato with 1 cup pumpkin (canned is fine) and add ½ cup shredded, unsweetened coconut to the batter.

No-Work Mostly Whole Wheat Pizza Dough

Makes: 1 large or 2 or more small pizzas

Time: 8 to 14 hours, almost entirely unattended

Add some white flour to a mostly whole wheat pizza crust, and you get the best of both worlds: the crisp, chewy texture from the gluten in white flour, with the nutty wholesomeness of whole grains—without overwhelming the toppings the way 100 percent whole wheat sometimes does.

This technique is based on my friend Jim Lahey’s no-knead method, which I have written extensively about in the New York Times. The idea is to slowly ferment a relatively wet, soft dough, which develops both complex flavors and a lovely chew. As an added bonus, it’s the easiest pizza dough to make: You start it in the morning, then shape and top it right before baking. All without mixers, processors, or hand kneading. Note that pizza dough freezes really well; after dividing it, just wrap it tightly and use it within a couple months (see Step 3).

2 cups whole wheat flour

1 cup all-purpose or bread flour, plus more as needed

½ teaspoon instant yeast

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for greasing

1. Combine the flours, yeast, and salt in a large bowl. Stir in 1½ cups water. The dough should be relatively sticky and wet, like biscuit batter. If not, add a little more water.

2. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, cover, and put it in a warm spot. Let the dough sit for at least 6 or up to 12 hours. (The longer it ferments, the more complex the flavor.)

3. When you’re ready, heat the oven as described in the pizza recipes that follow. Generously oil a baking sheet or large ovenproof skillet. Dust your hands with a little white flour and fold the dough over in the bowl a few times. It will be sticky, but resist the urge to use too much flour; dust your hands again only when absolutely necessary and use a light, gentle touch. If you’re making small pizzas, divide the dough in half or quarters. Gently press the dough into the skillet or onto the baking sheet; it’s not important that the pizzas be perfectly round, but you do want to be careful not to tear the dough.

4. Brush or drizzle the top of the pizza or pizzas with 2 tablespoons oil, cover, and let sit while you get the toppings together, but no more than 60 minutes or so.

Crunchy No-Work Mostly Whole Wheat Pizza Dough. Substitute ½ cup cornmeal (fine or medium grind) for ½ cup of the whole wheat flour.

Herbed No-Work Mostly Whole Wheat Pizza Dough. This works for the main recipe or the variation above. Add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary, thyme, oregano, or tarragon, or 1 teaspoon dried, to the dry ingredients at the beginning of Step 1.

Fresh Tomato and Cheese Pizza

Makes: 1 large or 2 or more small pies

Time: About 45 minutes with premade dough

Pizza at its most basic, but since every ingredient counts, use ripe in-season tomatoes, fresh whole milk mozzarella, and real Parmigiano-Reggiano. In winter, when tomatoes taste like wet wood (and come from who knows where), use the canned tomato variation, which is just as easy and nearly as good.

Cooking the tomatoes first just takes a couple minutes and dries them out a bit so the crust doesn’t get soggy. I like to toss this quick sauce with the cheeses so the flavors mingle more than they do in most pizzas.

1 recipe No-Work Mostly Whole Wheat Pizza Dough (page 533), mixed and risen

About 3 tablespoons olive oil

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

3 ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped

¾ cup (about 3 ounces) grated mozzarella cheese

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, thyme, or rosemary, or 1 teaspoon dried

Salt and black pepper

1. Shape the dough and brush with olive oil as described in Step 4 on page 534. Heat the oven to 500°F. Put 1 tablespoon of the oil in a skillet over medium-low heat; when it’s hot, add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until it softens, about 1 minute. Raise the heat a bit and add the tomatoes; cook, stirring frequently, just until most of their liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Let the tomatoes cool.

2. Toss the tomatoes with the mozzarella, Parmesan, and herb. Spread this mixture on the pizza dough and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put the baking sheet or skillet in the oven and bake until the crust is crisp and the cheese melted, usually 8 to 12 minutes. Let stand for several minutes before slicing so the cheese sets.

Canned Tomato and Cheese Pizza. Substitute one 14.5-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained and roughly chopped, for the fresh tomatoes.

Stuffed Pizza with Broccoli, White Beans, and Sausage

Makes: 1 calzone, enough for 4 to 8 serving

Time: About 1 hour with premade dough

Somewhere between a rolled stromboli and a folded giant calzone, this large filled free-form pie is an all-American spin on pizza. You cut and serve it like a sub—warm or at room temperature—so it makes excellent party food.

Serve some All-Purpose Tomato Sauce (page 194) on the side, and you’re more than set. Here I start with a quick filling of beans, broccoli, and—if you like—cheese, but you have all sorts of other options; see the list below for some ideas. But really, you could use 5 to 6 cups of almost any leftover dish you like; make sure to cook or drain off any excess liquid before filling the pizza.

1 recipe No-Work Mostly Whole Wheat Pizza Dough (page 533), mixed and risen

3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for greasing the pan

Salt

2 cups chopped broccoli or broccoli rabe

4 ounces Italian sausage, cut into ½-inch pieces, optional

1 tablespoon minced garlic, or to taste

2 cups cooked or canned cannellini or other white beans, drained

Black pepper

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, optional

½ cup ricotta cheese, optional

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1. Roll or pat out the dough on a greased baking sheet so that it forms a 10 × 14-inch rectangle, with the longest side running in front of you, left to right. Brush with a little olive oil. Heat the oven to 350°F.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and salt it. Add the broccoli, cook until just tender, about 3 minutes, and drain.

3. Put 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil in a large skillet over medium heat and, a minute later, add the sausage if you’re using it and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s cooked through and browned in places, 5 to 7 minutes. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat in the pan. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add the drained broccoli, beans, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Cook just until everything is warmed and well combined, a minute or 2. Turn off the heat and stir in the red pepper flakes and cheeses if you’re using them.

4. Spread the filling on the dough to within about 4 inches from the ends and 1 inch from the sides. Carefully pull one end of the dough up over half of the filling, then repeat with the other end so that the dough forms a seam in the middle and the filling is completely enclosed. Pinch the seam and the outer edges together. Drizzle the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over the top and sprinkle with salt. Use a sharp knife to make 3 or 4 slashes, each about ¼ inch deep, in the top of the dough to allow steam to escape. Bake the stuffed pizza until it’s nicely browned and bubbly and easily releases from the pan, 40 to 50 minutes. If you want an extra-crisp top crust, broil it for a minute or 2. Let stand for 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

Real Whole Wheat Bread

Makes: One 9-inch loaf

Time: 4 to 28 hours, almost completely unattended

Poofy, soft supermarket “whole wheat” bread isn’t; this is. And it’s one of the easiest yeast loaves imaginable, intensely flavored and dense, with a concise ingredient list and a quick stir-wait-pour-bake method.

The heft is an asset: This bread makes a sturdy, flavorful base for sandwiches, a robust partner for strong cheese, jam, or spreads, and an ideal starting point for croutons (page 47) or Bruschetta, Rethought (page 51). It’s also one of the most versatile and valuable breads I know; see the variations and try them.

To hurry things along, increase the yeast to 1½ teaspoons and reduce the first rise to 2 hours and the second rise to 1 hour. And since there’s no white flour, expect the loaf to rise almost to the top of the pan but not beyond that.

3 cups whole wheat flour

½ teaspoon instant yeast

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil

1. Combine the flour, yeast, and salt in a large bowl. Add 1½ cups water and stir until blended; the dough should be quite wet, almost like a batter (add more water if it seems dry). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it rest in a warm place for at least 12 (or up to 24) hours. The dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Rising time will be shorter at warmer temperatures, a bit longer if your kitchen is chilly.

2. Use some of the oil to grease a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan. Scoop the dough into the loaf pan and use a rubber spatula to gently settle it in evenly. Brush or drizzle the top with the remaining oil. Cover with a towel and let rise until doubled, an hour or 2 depending on the warmth of your kitchen. (It won’t reach the top of the pan, or will just barely.) When it’s almost ready, heat the oven to 350°F.

3. Bake the bread until deeply brown and hollow-sounding when tapped, about 45 minutes. (An instant-read thermometer should register 200°F when inserted into the center of the loaf.) Immediately turn the loaf out of the pan onto a wire rack and let cool before slicing.

Whole Wheat Bread with Pumpkin

Makes: One 9-inch loaf

Time: About 4 hours, almost completely unattended

Vegetables and fruit are common in sweet breads and cakes, but here’s a yeasty whole grain loaf that takes these additions in a different and delicious direction. The main recipe and the variations represent different techniques you can try with other grated, chopped, or puréed fruits, berries, and vegetables. Don’t knock it until you try it: These are dense, rich, full-flavored loaves that can form the centerpiece of a real meal.

3 cups whole wheat flour

1½ teaspoons instant yeast

2 teaspoons salt

Pinch of nutmeg, optional

1 cup puréed cooked pumpkin, butternut, or other winter squash (canned is fine)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1. Combine the flour, yeast, salt, and nutmeg if you’re using it in a large bowl. Add the pumpkin and about ½ cup water and stir until blended; the dough should be quite wet, almost like a batter (add more water if it seems dry). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it rest in a warm place for about 2 hours. The dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Rising time will be shorter at warmer temperatures, a bit longer if your kitchen is chilly.

2. Use some of the oil to grease a 9 × 5-inch pan. Scoop the dough into the loaf pan and use a rubber spatula to gently settle it in evenly. Brush or drizzle the top with the remaining oil. Cover with a towel or plastic wrap and let rise until doubled, an hour or 2 depending on the warmth of your kitchen. (It won’t reach the top of the pan.) When it’s almost ready, heat the oven to 350°F.

3. Bake the bread until deeply golden and hollow-sounding when tapped, about 45 minutes. (An instant-read thermometer should register 200°F when inserted into the center of the loaf.) If the loaf releases easily from the pan, turn it out immediately and let cool on a wire rack before slicing; if it sticks a little, let cool in the pan before turning it out.

Zucchini Bread. Omit the nutmeg. Instead of the pumpkin, use 1 packed cup grated zucchini; you’ll probably need more than ½ cup water to get the dough to come together. If you like, right before transferring the dough to the pan in Step 2, fold in 2 tablespoons fresh chopped dill or 1 teaspoon dried.

Blueberry Bread. Omit the pumpkin. Substitute cornmeal (fine or medium grind) for 1 cup of the flour if you like. Just before transferring the dough to the pan in Step 2, gently fold in up to 1½ cups blueberries. (Frozen are fine; just make sure they’re thawed and drained.)

Banana Bread. Use cinnamon instead of the nutmeg. Instead of the pumpkin, use mashed ripe bananas. For a sweeter bread add a tablespoon or 2 of sugar to the dough in Step 1.

Mostly Whole Wheat Baguettes

Makes: 2 large or 4 small baguettes

Time: About 2 hours, largely unattended

There are a few special steps in making baguettes, but none is that difficult or time consuming. And nearly whole wheat baguettes (pain complet) are just as traditionally French (and nearly as popular) as the white version. A bit of sugar in the dough helps retain the crackling crust of an all-white loaf, but for even more crunch, try sprinkling with sesame or poppy seeds before baking, or stir bulgur into the dough (see the variation).

2 cups whole wheat flour

1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for shaping

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon brown sugar

1½ teaspoons instant yeast

Vegetable oil, for greasing the pan, optional

¼ cup sesame or poppy seeds, optional

1. In a food processor, combine the flours, salt, sugar, and yeast. (You can mix the dough by hand, but it will take longer; use a big bowl and a wooden spoon or sturdy rubber spatula.) With the machine running, pour about 1½ cups water through the feed tube. Process until the dough forms a ball, adding 1 tablespoon more water at a time until it becomes smooth. You want a pretty wet but well-defined ball. The whole process should take 30 to 60 seconds. If the dough is too dry, add water 1 tablespoon at a time and process for 5 to 10 seconds after each addition. If it becomes too wet, add 1 to 2 tablespoons flour and process briefly. Put the dough in a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature until doubled in size, at least 1 hour.

2. Lightly flour your work surface and hands and knead the dough a few times. For small baguettes, divide the dough into 4 pieces; for larger ones, make 2. Roll each piece of dough into a log of any length that will fit in your oven. If you plan to bake the loaves on a sheet pan, lightly grease it with oil and transfer the loaves to the pan. Cover with a towel and let rise until the loaves are puffed to almost twice their original size, 30 minutes or so. Heat the oven (with a pizza stone if you have one) to 400°F while you let the baguettes rise.

3. When you’re ready to bake, slash the top of each loaf a few times with a razor blade or sharp knife. If you are topping the baguettes with seeds, brush each loaf with a little water and sprinkle them on. If you are using a pizza stone, gently transfer the loaves to the stone with a floured rimless baking sheet, lightly floured peel, plank of wood, or flexible cutting board. Turn the heat down to 375°F and bake until the crust is golden brown and the internal temperature of the bread is at least 210°F (it can be a little lower if you plan to reheat the bread later) or the loaves sound hollow when tapped. Remove, spray with a bit of water if you would like a shinier crust, and cool completely on a wire rack before slicing.

Mostly Whole Wheat Baguettes with Bulgur. In Step 1, add 1 cup rinsed (unsoaked) bulgur before adding the water. Proceed with the recipe, adding more water as necessary.

Sesame Pita Pockets

Makes: 12 small pitas

Time: At least 2 hours, somewhat unattended

Authentic pita—the kind you get at Middle Eastern markets—is dimpled, chewy, and flavorful. But it only rarely has pockets. So if you want to make filled sandwiches you’re left with the oddly stiff and incredibly bland disks sold in grocery stores.

But making delicious pita with pockets is pretty easy at home, and you can vary it any number of ways: Substitute rye flour for half of the whole wheat, or omit the sesame seeds and add a pinch of dried thyme instead. You can also make these smaller or larger; just divide the dough into more or fewer pieces in Step 2.

1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

1½ cups whole wheat flour

3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for greasing the pan and brushing the finished loaves

2 teaspoons instant yeast

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon honey or molasses

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

1. Combine the flours, 3 tablespoons oil, yeast, and salt in a food processor. Turn the machine on and add 1 cup water through the feed tube along with the honey and sesame seeds. Process for about 30 seconds, adding more water a little at a time, until the mixture forms a ball and is slightly sticky to the touch. If it’s dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water and process for another 10 seconds. (In the unlikely event that the mixture is too sticky, add more all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon at a time.) Put the dough in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise until doubled in size, 1 to 2 hours.

2. When the dough is ready, lightly flour your hands and the work surface. Form the dough into a ball and divide it into 12 equal pieces; roll each piece into a small ball. Put each ball on a lightly floured surface, sprinkle with a little flour, and cover with plastic wrap or a towel. Let rest until they puff slightly, about 20 minutes.

3. Roll each ball less than ¼ inch thick, using flour to prevent sticking as necessary. As you work, spread the flat disks on a floured surface and keep them covered. When all the disks are rolled out, heat the oven to 350°F (the disks should rest for at least 20 minutes after rolling). If you have a pizza stone, use it on a rack set low in the oven; if not, lightly oil a baking sheet and put it in the oven on a rack set in the middle.

4. To bake on a stone, slide the individual disks—as many as will fit comfortably—directly into the oven, using a peel or a large spatula. Or bake 4 to 6 disks at a time on a baking sheet. For either method, bake the pita until lightly browned on the first side, then flip and brown on the other side. They should puff up a bit when they are ready. Total baking time will be between 5 and 10 minutes, generally only 5 to 6.

5. As the breads finish baking, remove them from the oven and brush them with a little extra oil if you like. These can be eaten right away or cooled, stored in wax paper or plastic bags, and gently reheated before using. (You can freeze them, too.)

Skillet Pita Pockets. Instead of preheating the oven, lightly oil and wipe out a heavy skillet and heat it over medium heat. Cook the pitas individually (or 2 at a time, depending on how big your skillet is) for 2 to 4 minutes on each side.

Olive Oil Breadsticks

Makes: 50 to 100 breadsticks

Time: 1 day or so, largely unattended

Made with mostly whole wheat flour, these breadsticks have an earthy flavor and crisp texture. And because you roll them out on the counter, they have a wonderfully rustic and authentic look—understandable, since they’re rustic and authentic. For quick flavor boosters, try sprinkling the breadsticks just before baking with chopped fresh herbs, nuts or seeds, grated Parmesan, any dried spice blend, or sea salt.

These are best when fresh but keep quite well in a covered container (like a tin) for a week or so.

2 teaspoons instant yeast

1 teaspoon sugar

2¼ cups whole wheat flour

¾ cup all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling the dough

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed

½ cup coarse cornmeal

1. Combine the yeast, sugar, flours, and salt in a food processor; pulse once or twice. Add the 2 tablespoons oil and pulse a couple more times. With the machine running, add 1 cup water through the feed tube. Continue to add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mixture forms a ball. The dough should be a little shaggy and quite sticky.

2. Put a little oil in a bowl, transfer the dough ball to it, and turn to coat well. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 1 hour in a warm place. Reshape the ball, put it back in the bowl, cover again, and let rise in the refrigerator for several hours, or preferably overnight.

3. When you’re ready to bake, heat the oven to 400°F. Lightly grease 2 baking sheets with oil and sprinkle them very lightly with cornmeal. Cut the dough into 3 pieces; keep the other 2 covered while you work with the first. Use all-purpose flour to dust the work surface well and roll a piece of dough out as thinly as possible into a large rectangle, about a foot long. Use a sharp knife or pastry wheel to cut the dough into roughly 1¼-inch-thick strips (slightly smaller is better than slightly bigger). Flour your hands and roll the strips a bit to make them round, transferring the finished breadsticks to the prepared pans as you work.

4. Brush the breadsticks with more oil. Bake until crisp and golden, 10 to 20 minutes. Cool completely on wire racks. Serve immediately or store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Black Rolls with Caraway

Makes: 12 sandwich rolls

Time: About 4 hours, largely unattended

These are mini versions of black bread, the classic Russian loaf made with unexpected ingredients. These deeply flavored rolls easily turn soup into a meal, and they also make a great ploughman’s lunch with pickles, mustard, an apple, and a little sharp cheese. For an unorthodox twist, you can use stout (chocolate stout, which is not good for much else, is perfect here) in place of the coffee.

½ cup 100-percent bran cereal (not bran cereal flakes) or ground bran

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting and kneading

1 cup rye flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

2 tablespoons cocoa powder

1 tablespoon instant yeast

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon caraway seeds

¼ cup vegetable oil, plus more for greasing the bowl and pan

6 tablespoons molasses

2 tablespoons cider vinegar or lemon juice

1¼ cups strong black coffee

1. If you’re using cereal, put it in a food processor and let it run for about 10 seconds, until it’s finely ground; if you’re using already ground bran, just put it in the food processor. Add the flours, cocoa, yeast, salt, and caraway seeds and pulse. Add the ¼ cup oil and molasses and pulse a few more times. With the machine running, pour the vinegar and most of the coffee through the feed tube. Process for about 30 seconds. The dough should be a barely sticky, easy-to-handle ball. If it’s too dry, add coffee 1 tablespoon at a time and process for 5 to 10 seconds after each addition. If too wet, which is unlikely, add 1 to 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour and process briefly.

2. Use a little more oil to grease a large bowl. Shape the dough into a rough ball, put it in the bowl, and cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel. Let rise until nearly doubled in bulk, at least 2 hours. Deflate the dough and shape it once again into a ball; let it rest, covered, on a lightly floured surface for about 15 minutes. (You can make the dough ahead to this point, cover it well, and refrigerate for several hours or overnight; return it to room temperature before proceeding.)

3. Lightly dust your hands and the work surface with all-purpose flour (just enough to keep the dough from sticking). Knead the dough a few times, divide it into 12 equal pieces, and use your hands to roll each piece into a ball. Use the remaining oil to grease a baking sheet. Put the rolls on the sheet. Cover again and let rise until the dough has plumped up again considerably, about 1 hour.

4. Heat the oven to 325°F. Make a shallow slash in the top of each roll using a sharp knife or razor blade. Bake until the bottom of a roll sounds hollow when you tap it or the internal temperature reaches about 210°F, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool on a wire rack before serving.

Black Bread with Caraway. In Step 3, shape the dough into a large oval loaf or divide it in half and shape each half into a round loaf. A large loaf will need 55 to 60 minutes in the oven, while 2 smaller loaves will need 40 to 45 minutes.