I’m not a big fan of generalizations or rules, but here’s an exception: If you want to eat well, you should eat at least one salad every day, or nearly every day. There’s no excuse not to: Of all categories of dishes, salads are the easiest to improvise, the fastest to make, and the one with the most options.

There is a salad for everyone, and the recipes in this chapter offer so many options you’re bound to find a few for you. Once you do, stick to them, get used to them, and play with them: Assemble that assortment of cooked or raw ingredients and whip up a little dressing that ties everything together. The whole process can take as little as five minutes. (I’ve organized this chapter to take you from the simplest to the most complicated; if you’re at all worried about time, concentrate on the first few pages to begin with.)

Once you start working in advance, the salad universe grows to enormous dimensions. The ideal system, of course, is to clean vegetables in bulk, preferably right after bringing them home. Once they’re washed and trimmed, wrap them in towels and pop them into containers, keep them crisp in bowls of cold water, or cook them simply. That way there’s always something ready for salad when you are.

But many people—including me—have trouble setting aside that type of time to cook in advance, which is understandable. So many of the recipes here feature just one main ingredient, or use a food processor to do the work, or are based on cooked items you might already have in the fridge.

Another challenge of salads is the dressing; so many people appear to be just plain afraid of vinaigrette. For this there is an answer: Dress salads with oil and vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice right in the bowl. Period. That’s what I do at least half the time, and—as long as the oil and vinegar are decent—you cannot go wrong. Having said that, all of the salads here include their own dressings (often whisked together quickly in the same vessel used for serving), but you can feel free to mix and match them as you like or, again, just use oil and vinegar. And by all means, adjust the amount of vinegar and oil to taste, as you would other seasonings or condiments.

When you are making a slightly more complicated dressing, you might double or triple the recipe and keep it refrigerated to use whenever you like. For a handful of other dressings that also double as simple sauces—including a classic but not-too-intimidating vinaigrette—see the group of recipes that begins on page 186.

Ten-Minute Green Salad

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 10 minutes

A salad of fresh greens with no more than good olive oil and vinegar or lemon juice is basic knowledge for any cook and can even be prepared a little in advance. If you like a bit more punch, try combining the salad greens with whole fresh herbs (see the variation) or substituting any raw or cooked vegetables for some or all of the greens. And check out My Favorite Vinaigrette on page 186 for more dressing ideas.

8 cups assorted greens, rinsed, dried, and torn into bite-size pieces

¹/₃ cup olive oil, or to taste

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, balsamic vinegar, or lemon juice, or to taste

Salt and black pepper

To make the salad for immediate serving: Put the greens in a bowl, pour over the olive oil and vinegar or lemon juice, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve.

To make the salad up to an hour in advance: Put the vinegar or lemon juice, oil, and salt and pepper in a salad bowl and whisk with a fork until combined. Put the greens on top, cover the bowl with a towel, and refrigerate until you’re ready to eat. Toss and serve.

Nicely Dressed Herb Salad. Replace some of the greens with any combination of the following chopped fresh herbs that you like: up to ½ cup parsley, cilantro, basil, dill, or sorrel; up to ¼ cup chives; a few leaves of tarragon, oregano, or thyme.

Tomato Carpaccio

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 10 minutes

No, it’s not “real” carpaccio, but the word is perfectly descriptive here. As you might expect, big, fleshy beefsteak tomatoes are the way to go. (In any case make sure your knife is sharp.)

You can treat other shaved or super thinly sliced vegetables the same way, especially fennel, radishes, (seeded) cucumbers, kohlrabi, small turnips, beets, and parsnips.

4 ripe beefsteak or other large tomatoes (about 3 pounds), thinly sliced

Salt and black pepper

4 cups arugula, watercress, mâche, or other tender, flavorful greens

2 tablespoons olive oil, or more if you like

Shaved Parmesan cheese, for garnish

1 lemon, cut into wedges

1. Spread out the tomato slices to cover individual plates or a serving platter in a thin layer. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then top with the greens and season again. Drizzle the oil over all.

2. Scatter the shaved Parmesan on top and serve with the lemon wedges.

Tomato Carpaccio with Mozzarella. Use really good fresh mozzarella and make sure it’s really cold (and your knife is sharp). Slice 4 ounces mozzarella cheese as thinly as you can and layer the pieces among the tomatoes.

Classic (or Not) Caesar Salad

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 20 to 30 minutes

Once in a while I crave a traditional Caesar, with nothing more than lettuce and croutons. More often, though, I like to add vegetables, and maybe even a bit of meat or fish, to turn the salad into a meal and take advantage of that terrific dressing.

1 garlic clove, halved

1 egg or 3 tablespoons soft silken tofu

3 tablespoons lemon juice

½ cup olive oil

1 or 2 anchovies, minced (or more to taste), optional

1 to 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

Salt and black pepper

1 cup cooked or canned cannellini beans, drained

1 medium zucchini or 2 small zucchini (about 1 pound), grated and squeezed dry in a clean towel

1 large head romaine lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces

Croutons (for homemade, see page 47)

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese or ¼ cup chopped walnuts

1. Rub the inside of a large salad bowl with the garlic clove, then discard it. Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil and cook the egg in the boiling water for 60 to 90 seconds; it will just begin to firm up. Crack it into the salad bowl (be sure to scoop out the white that clings to the shell). If you’re using the tofu, just put it in the bowl.

2. Whisk the egg or tofu while gradually adding the lemon juice and then the oil. Whisk in the anchovies if you’re using them, along with the Worcestershire sauce. Taste and add salt if needed and plenty of pepper. Toss well with the cannellini beans, zucchini, and lettuce; top with the croutons, Parmesan, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Toss again at the table and serve.

Tossed Greens with Fruit and Mustard Vinaigrette

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Sweet and sharp, light but a bit more substantial than a plain green salad, yet perhaps a bit more interesting than the typical lettuce-cuke-tomatoes-carrots. Stay seasonal: stone fruit or berries in the summer; grapes, pears, or apples in fall; and either citrus, pineapple, or dried fruit through the winter—of course, a combination is good too. For a more elaborate version, see the following recipe.

About 1 pound fresh fruit (or 1 cup dried fruit), singly or in combination

1 tablespoon lemon juice

¹/₃ cup olive oil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, or to taste

1 large shallot, thinly sliced, optional

1 to 3 teaspoons Dijon or other good-quality mustard

Salt and black pepper

8 cups mixed greens (like mesclun), torn into bite-size pieces

1. Peel and core the fruit if necessary and remove any seeds or pits. If large, cut the fruit into ½-inch chunks. Toss the fruit with the lemon juice, then cover and refrigerate while you make the dressing.

2. Put the oil, vinegar, shallot if you’re using it, mustard, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper in a large bowl and whisk until well combined. Add the fruit and greens and toss until everything is well distributed and evenly coated with dressing. Serve immediately.

Tossed Greens with Fruit, Nuts, and Cheese Vinaigrette. Instead of the mustard, use ¼ cup crumbled goat, feta, or blue cheese, or grated Parmesan and whisk until the cheese thickens the dressing (just a minute or so). Toss the salad and top with ½ cup toasted pine nuts, almonds, pecans, pistachios, or hazelnuts.

Fruity Chef Salad with Mixed Herb Dressing

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

The fruits’ juices will release when you toss the salad, combining beautifully with the dressing. Use whatever fruits and seasonings are in season (see the variation), and you’ll have a spectacularly bright and ever-changing salad. For the herbs, use large amounts of parsley, chervil, basil, or mint; smaller amounts of oregano or marjoram; or just a few leaves of tarragon, thyme, sage, or rosemary.

½ cup mixed, chopped fresh herbs (see the headnote)

2 tablespoons lemon juice

¹/₃ cup olive oil

Salt and black pepper

2 cups seeded chopped watermelon

3 peaches, pitted and cut into wedges

3 ripe tomatoes, cut into wedges

1 avocado, skin and pit removed, cut into wedges

8 cups torn lettuce leaves or mixed greens

¼ cup crumbled feta cheese

2 to 4 cooked bacon slices or prosciutto slices, chopped, optional

1. Put the herbs, lemon juice, oil, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper in a large salad bowl and whisk until well combined.

2. Add the watermelon, peaches, tomatoes, and avocado and toss. Add the lettuce and toss again. Sprinkle the cheese and bacon or prosciutto (if you’re using it) on top and serve.

Wintertime Fruity Chef Salad with Curried Dressing. You can even use shredded Napa cabbage here instead of the lettuce if you like. Instead of the herbs, whisk 1 tablespoon curry powder (or to taste) into the dressing. Use pineapple, citrus fruit, and pears or apples for the melon, peaches, and tomatoes.

Mediterranean Cobb Salad

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

This Mediterranean take on a classic Cobb salad relies on a caper-and-anchovy vinaigrette to make it the most flavorful you’ve ever tasted. A good-quality wine vinegar is important here.

¹/₃ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons wine vinegar, or to taste

3 anchovy fillets, with a bit of their oil (or use more capers)

1 tablespoon capers, with a bit of their brine

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Black pepper

8 cups chopped romaine lettuce

1 cup cooked or canned chickpeas or white beans, drained

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced

½ cup chopped hard-boiled eggs, prosciutto, or cooked chicken, or crumbled Gorgonzola

1. Combine the oil, vinegar, anchovies, capers, parsley, and black pepper in a blender and turn the machine on; a creamy emulsion will form within 30 seconds. Taste and add more vinegar or pepper if necessary. (If you don’t have—or don’t want to use—a blender, chop the anchovies and capers and whisk all the ingredients together in a small bowl.)

2. Put the romaine in the center of a large platter, plate, or shallow bowl and spoon the other ingredients around it in rows or mounds. Just before serving, drizzle the top with the vinaigrette, toss it at the table, and serve.

Black Kale and Black Olive Salad

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 20 minutes

Raw thinly sliced black kale—also known as Tuscan or lacinato kale—is an amazingly delicious alternative to everyday salad greens. Combined with black olives and a little shaved Parmesan, its flavor is earthy and a little briny. As an added bonus, this salad is sturdy enough to make up to an hour in advance without the leaves sogging out on you. If you can’t find black kale, use chard, Napa cabbage, mustard greens, or romaine lettuce.

1 large bunch black kale (about 1 pound), cut into thin ribbons

½ cup black olives, pitted and chopped

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

¼ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Salt and black pepper

1. Combine the kale, olives, and Parmesan in a large bowl. Drizzle with the oil and vinegar, sprinkle with salt (not too much) and lots of pepper, and toss.

2. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to an hour.

Fennel and Orange Salad with Green Olive Tapenade

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 20 minutes

The first step of this recipe produces a terrific tapenade, one that could become a staple for you. It keeps for a long time and has many uses beyond this salad—from sandwich spread or dip, to soup garnish or quick pasta sauce.

To turn this salad into a meal, simply toss everything in a big bowl with a load of crisp greens, adding more olive oil and a squeeze of orange as needed. A bit of crumbled cheese (feta or Gorgonzola are nice) or chopped prosciutto is a good addition (you might want to cut down on the tapenade to avoid making the salad too salty). Without too much more work, you can cook up some shrimp or a thinly sliced chicken breast and add that to the salad bowl as well.

1 cup green olives, pitted

1 teaspoon fresh thyme, or ¼ teaspoon dried, optional

¼ cup olive oil, or more as needed

1 large fennel bulb, cored and thinly sliced

3 navel oranges, peeled and sliced crosswise into rounds

Fennel seeds, for garnish, optional

1. In a food processor, combine the olives and thyme if you’re using it with a tablespoon or so of oil. Pulse once or twice, then turn on the processor and add the remaining oil rather quickly to result in a rough purée. Thin with more oil if necessary. (You can refrigerate this for up to a month.)

2. Put the fennel and orange slices on 4 plates or a serving platter, drizzle with a little more oil, top with the olive purée, and sprinkle with a few fennel seeds if you have them. Serve.

Asparagus Salad with Black Olive Tapenade. A little more work but well worth it if you’ve got good asparagus. Use black olives in the tapenade. Instead of the fennel, trim about 1½ pounds asparagus. Omit the oranges. Cook the asparagus in boiling salted water until crisp-tender, just a couple of minutes. Plunge immediately into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking and drain well. Serve the tapenade on top of the asparagus, garnished with lemon wedges.

Chopped Salad with Thai Flavors

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Spicy and crunchy, this vegetable salad is essentially a chopped slaw, so feel free to shred the cabbage and carrots if you prefer. Cooked edamame or cubes of fried tofu are nice additions here, or simply toss the whole salad with noodles, adding a little more lime juice and oil if you need to.

Juice of 2 limes

¼ cup vegetable oil

1 tablespoon nam pla (fish sauce) or soy sauce

½ teaspoon sugar, optional

1 fresh hot red chile (like Thai or serrano), seeded and minced, or to taste

1 carrot, chopped

1 red or yellow bell pepper, chopped

4 cups chopped cabbage

1 cup chopped snow peas or green beans

1 bunch radishes, chopped, or about 1 cup grated jícama or daikon

1 cup bean sprouts

¼ cup peanuts, lightly crushed

Salt and black pepper

¼ cup chopped fresh basil, preferably Thai, or cilantro

¼ cup chopped fresh mint

1. Put the lime juice, oil, nam pla, sugar if you’re using it, and chile in a large salad bowl and whisk until well combined.

2. Add all of the vegetables to the bowl with the dressing and toss a few times. Top with the peanuts, taste, and add salt if necessary and lots of black pepper; toss again and refrigerate until ready to serve. (It’s best to let the salad chill for an hour or so to allow the flavors to mellow; you can let it sit even longer, up to 24 hours, but drain the salad before continuing.) Just before serving, toss with the herbs.

Chopped Salad with Sesame and Soy. Substitute 1 tablespoon sesame oil for 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil, and substitute 2 tablespoons rice vinegar and 1 tablespoon soy sauce for the lime juice and fish sauce. Garnish with sesame seeds instead of peanuts and use a bunch of chopped scallions instead of (or in addition to) the herbs.

Easiest Bean or Grain Salad on the Planet

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 10 minutes with cooked or canned beans or grains

You could make bean or grain salad every day for the rest of your life without making it the same way twice. A simple dressing of olive oil, lemon juice, and parsley is a great place to start, but the possibilities are endless (see the sidebar on page 187). For basic instructions on cooking beans, see page 350; for grains, see page 271.

Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste

¼ cup olive oil, or to taste

¼ cup chopped red onion or shallot

Salt and black pepper

4 cups cooked or canned beans, drained, or cooked grains, or a combination

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

1. Put the lemon juice, oil, onion, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper in a large bowl and whisk until well combined. If you’ve just cooked the beans or grains, add them to the dressing while they are still hot. Toss gently until the beans or grains are coated, adding more oil or lemon juice if you like.

2. Let cool to room temperature (or refrigerate), stirring every now and then to redistribute the dressing. Stir in the parsley just before serving, then taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Apple Slaw

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

A tangy honey-mustard vinaigrette pulls together all the different flavors in this mayo-free slaw. Try substituting jícama, just-ripe pear, green papaya, or even green mango for the apple. To make quick work of the chopping, use the grater disk of a food processor.

The meaty variation makes a satisfying lunch with a piece of good whole grain bread, especially the Black Rolls with Caraway on page 547.

¼ cup olive oil

1 heaping teaspoon Dijon or other good-quality mustard, or to taste

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon honey

2 cups cored and shredded red cabbage (about 8 ounces)

2 medium Granny Smith or other tart, crisp apples, cored and shredded or grated

8 radishes, chopped

1 red onion, chopped or grated

Salt and black pepper

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

1. Put the oil, mustard, lemon juice, and honey in a large bowl and whisk until well combined.

2. Add the cabbage, apples, radishes, and onion and toss until thoroughly combined. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to serve. (It’s best to let the slaw rest for an hour or so to allow the flavors to mellow. You can let it sit even longer, up to a few hours, before the apples start to discolor; just drain the slaw before continuing.) Just before serving, toss with the parsley.

Apple Slaw with Bacon or Chicken. Add ¼ cup crumbled cooked bacon or ½ cup shredded or cubed cooked chicken to the mix right before tossing for the last time.

Raw Butternut Salad with Cranberry Dressing

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Here are two familiar fall flavors combined in a surprising way. Raw winter squash is delightful—bright flavored, with a creamy-but-crisp texture. (Midseason butternut squash is best: too early and it won’t be sweet, too late and it may be woody and tough.) This dish would be right at home as part of a Thanksgiving feast, but it’s so easy that it works well on weeknights. The grape dressing in the variation is perhaps a little less festive, but it’s equally delicious. For something more substantial, top with toasted almonds or pecans—or even a little crumbled goat cheese. Leftovers are terrific stir-fried in a little olive oil.

½ cup fresh or frozen cranberries, picked over and rinsed

¾ cup orange juice

1 tablespoon minced ginger

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon honey

Salt and black pepper

1 butternut squash (about 1½ pounds), peeled and seeded

1. Combine the cranberries, orange juice, and ginger in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the berries have begun to break, 10 minutes or so. Remove the cranberries from the heat and add the oil, honey, and some salt and pepper. Stir until well combined.

2. Meanwhile, grate the butternut squash by hand or in a food processor. Transfer the squash to a large bowl, add the warm cranberry dressing, and toss to combine everything. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Or cover and refrigerate the salad for up to several hours; bring to room temperature before serving.)

Raw Butternut Salad with Grape Dressing. Substitute ½ cup seedless green or red grapes for the cranberries.

Whole Grain Panzanella

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

This Italian peasant dish is most often no more than stale bread, tomatoes, and olive oil, but I like adding a little something crunchy and green. It’s also a good vehicle for leftover grilled vegetables—like eggplant, zucchini, or mushrooms—or for hard-boiled eggs or anchovies.

When tomatoes are not in season, try the variation.

8 ounces whole grain bread (4 thick slices; stale is fine)

4 celery stalks or 1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced

¼ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1½ pounds ripe tomatoes, seeded and chopped

½ red onion, thinly sliced

Salt and black pepper

½ cup chopped fresh basil

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Put the bread on a baking sheet and toast, turning once or twice, until golden and dry, 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the thickness of the slices. Remove from the oven and cool.

2. Put the celery, oil, vinegar, tomatoes, and onion in a large salad bowl. Sprinkle with salt and lots of pepper and toss to coat.

3. Fill a large bowl with tap water and soak the bread for about 3 minutes. Gently squeeze the slices dry, then crumble them into the salad bowl. Toss well to combine and let sit for 15 to 20 minutes (or up to an hour). Right before serving, taste, adjust the seasoning if necessary, and toss with the basil.

Whole Grain Bread Salad with Dried Fruit. Omit the tomatoes and basil and substitute 2 medium shallots for the onion. In Step 2, toss the celery or fennel and dressing with 1 cup chopped dried fruit (figs, dates, apricots, cherries, cranberries, or raisins are all good) and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage. Garnish with toasted hazelnuts or almonds.

Smashed Potato Salad with Escarole

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 45 minutes

The key to success here is to be generous with the olive oil, whose flavor takes mere potato and greens—whether escarole or any other strong-flavored green like radicchio, dandelion, endive, or chicory—from humble to sublime. This is perfect picnic food, with or without meat, cheese, or eggs (see the variations).

2 large baking or all-purpose potatoes (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into quarters

Salt

1 pound escarole or other greens (see the headnote), thick stems chopped

¼ to ½ cup olive oil

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

Black pepper

1. Put the potatoes in a large, deep pot and cover them with cold water. Add a large pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Cook until soft but not falling apart, 15 to 30 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain. Add the escarole to the water and cook until it wilts, a minute or 2. Rinse under cold water. Drain well, then chop.

2. Roughly crush the drained potatoes in a bowl with a fork or potato masher, leaving lots of lumps; add ¼ cup oil and the lemon zest and juice. Mash in the escarole, adding more oil and sprinkling with salt and pepper as needed. Serve immediately (or cover and refrigerate for up to 12 hours; bring to room temperature before serving).

Potato and Escarole Salad with Parmesan and Frizzled Meat. While the potatoes are cooking, put 1 tablespoon of the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add 4 ounces chopped prosciutto, pancetta, or bacon, or crumbled sausage and cook until the pieces are crisp and brown, 3 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the remaining dressing ingredients, stir well, and transfer to a bowl. Add the potatoes and escarole. Garnish with ¼ cup grated Parmesan before serving.

Potato and Escarole Salad with Hard-Boiled Eggs. Add 1 or 2 chopped hard-boiled eggs to the salad along with the escarole in Step 2.

Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with Chili Dressing

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

Sweet roasted vegetables, cumin-scented chili powder, and cilantro are perfect together. And since the warm potatoes soak up the dressing like a sponge, this salad is fragrant through and through. If you’ve got a food processor, purée the dressing and cilantro together in Step 2 for a pesto-like drizzle. You can try straight ground dried chiles—like the hot chipotles or milder anchos, for example—but go easy because they will be more powerful than the chili powder.

4 medium sweet potatoes (about 1½ pounds), peeled and cut into large sticks

1 large onion, preferably red, sliced

8 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and black pepper

2 teaspoons chili powder, or to taste

Juice of 2 limes

1 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Put the sweet potatoes and red onion on a large baking sheet, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil, toss to coat, and spread them out in a single layer. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast, turning occasionally, until the potatoes are crisp and brown outside and just tender inside and the onions are soft and brown, 35 to 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and keep them on the pan until ready to dress.

2. Meanwhile, whisk together the remaining 6 tablespoons olive oil, the chili powder, lime juice, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper.

3. Toss the warm vegetables with the dressing and cilantro. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve warm or at room temperature (or cover and refrigerate for up to a day).

Roasted Beet Salad with Peanut Vinaigrette

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 2 hours, largely unattended

Earthy, sweet beets combine well with Asian flavors; add some crunchy peanuts and you’ve got a sensational, colorful salad.

2 pounds red beets (about 4 large)

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, preferably peanut

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon soy sauce, or to taste

½ cup peanuts, chopped

½ cup chopped scallions

Black pepper

Salt if needed

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Wash the beets well. While they are still wet, wrap each one in foil and put them on a baking sheet or in a roasting pan. (Alternatively, don’t wrap them but bake them in a covered casserole or roasting pan.) Bake the beets, undisturbed, until a thin-bladed knife pierces all of them with little resistance, 1 to 1½ hours. (They may cook at different rates; remove each one when it is done.)

2. Meanwhile, whisk together the oils, vinegar, soy sauce, peanuts, and scallions in a large bowl; sprinkle with pepper. Once the beets are cool enough to handle, peel off their skins, cut them into wedges or cubes, and combine them with the dressing in the bowl. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a little salt if necessary. Serve at room temperature (or refrigerate for up to 4 hours and return to room temperature before serving).

Roasted Green Bean Salad with Pecan Vinaigrette. Omit the peanuts and dressing ingredients. Use 2 pounds green beans instead of the beets; toss them with 3 tablespoons olive oil and roast at 400°F, stirring once or twice, for 25 minutes. For the dressing, use 2 tablespoons wine or sherry vinegar, 1 tablespoon olive oil, ½ cup chopped pecans, and 1 thinly sliced shallot or small red onion.

Brown Rice Salad with Tomatoes and Peas

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 50 minutes

Nutty-tasting brown rice stands up better than white rice to bold flavors like garlic, briny cheese or fish, and fresh herbs. I’ve included the cooking instructions for the rice, but if you’ve got about 2½ cups cooked rice handy, use it and skip to Step 2. If you go with the anchovies here, take it easy on the salt until you taste.

¾ cup brown rice

Salt

2 cups fresh or thawed frozen peas

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced

2 anchovy fillets, chopped, optional

2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved

¼ cup olive oil, or to taste

1 tablespoon sherry or red wine vinegar, or to taste

Black pepper

¼ cup crumbled ricotta salata, feta, or other salty cheese

1 cup chopped fresh basil

1. Put the rice and a pinch of salt in a small saucepan with water to cover by about 1 inch. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat so the mixture bubbles gently. Cover and cook for 30 to 40 minutes, checking occasionally to make sure the water is not evaporating too quickly (you can add a little more liquid if necessary). When the liquid has been absorbed, taste and see if the rice is tender, or nearly so. If not, add about ½ cup water and continue to cook, covered.

2. When the rice is tender, turn off the heat, stir in the peas with a fork, and let the mixture sit, covered, for 15 or even 30 minutes, during which time it will become a bit drier and cool off a bit. (You can make the rice up to 2 days ahead; refrigerate it, of course, but bring it back to room temperature before proceeding.)

3. Put the rice and peas, garlic, red onion, anchovies if you’re using them, and tomatoes in a large bowl. Add the oil and vinegar and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Use 2 big forks to combine, fluffing the rice and tossing gently to separate the grains.

4. Stir in the cheese and basil. Taste and adjust the seasoning; moisten with a little more oil and vinegar if necessary. Serve at room temperature (or refrigerate for up to a day; bring back to room temperature before serving).

Brown Rice Salad with Tuna, Tomatoes, and Peas. Add 1 small (5- to 6-ounce) can oil-packed tuna (drained) along with the vegetables in Step 3. Omit the cheese and add 1 teaspoon red chile flakes.

Couscous Salad with Dried Cranberries and Pecans

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 30 minutes

Coriander, cayenne, and fresh sage give this salad some oomph; try the minty Indian-tinged variation for a sprightlier version. If you like, add half a cup or so of shredded smoked turkey, flaked smoked trout, or crumbled goat cheese at the end.

1 cup couscous, preferably whole wheat

Salt

2 large carrots, grated

½ cup chopped pecans

½ cup chopped dried cranberries

¼ cup chopped scallions

¼ cup olive oil, or more as needed

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, or more juice as needed

1 teaspoon coriander

Pinch of cayenne, or to taste

Black pepper

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage, or 1 teaspoon dried

1. Put the couscous in a small pot and add 1½ cups water and a pinch of salt. Bring the water to a boil, then cover and remove from the heat. Let steep for at least 10 minutes, or up to 20.

2. Put the slightly cooled couscous in a large salad bowl along with the carrots, pecans, cranberries, scallions, oil, and lemon zest and juice and sprinkle with the spices and salt and pepper. Use 2 big forks to combine, fluffing the couscous and tossing gently to separate the grains. (The salad can be made up to this point and refrigerated for up to a day; bring to room temperature before proceeding.)

3. Stir in the parsley and sage. Taste and adjust the seasoning, moisten with a little more oil and lemon juice as you like, and serve.

Curried Couscous Salad with Dried Apricots and Pistachios. Use pistachios instead of pecans, dried apricots instead of cranberries, and curry powder instead of coriander and cayenne. Stir in ½ cup chopped fresh mint in Step 3 instead of the parsley and sage.

Quinoa Tabbouleh

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 40 minutes

Tabbouleh is usually made with bulgur, but quinoa, the pleasantly grassy, slightly crunchy, high-protein grain from South America, puts a lively twist on it. Don’t be tempted, though, to turn this herb-and-vegetable dish into a grain salad—the grain is for texture, not heft. Instead, try experimenting with different raw or cooked vegetables. I’ve made some suggestions here, but use what you like and what’s handy, including leftovers. Some of my favorites: asparagus, peas, spinach, or eggplant, especially grilled.

½ cup quinoa, rinsed and drained

Salt

¹/₃ cup olive oil, or more as needed

¼ cup lemon juice, or more as needed

Black pepper

1 cup roughly chopped fresh parsley

1 cup roughly chopped fresh mint

1 cup cooked or canned white or pink beans, drained, optional

6 or 7 radishes, chopped

½ cup chopped scallions

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

About 6 black olives, pitted and chopped, or to taste, optional

2 celery stalks (leaves included if possible), chopped

¼ cup chopped pistachios or almonds, optional

1. Put the quinoa in a small saucepan with ¾ cup water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and bubble gently until the quinoa has absorbed all of the water, 15 minutes or so. Remove from the heat and let rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Toss the warm quinoa with the oil and lemon juice and sprinkle with pepper. (You can make the quinoa up to a day in advance: Just cover and refrigerate, then bring to room temperature before proceeding.)

2. Just before you’re ready to eat, add the remaining ingredients and toss gently. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more oil or lemon juice as needed, then serve.

Root Vegetable and Quinoa Salad. Perfect in the winter. Omit the tomatoes. Peel and dice 8 ounces parsnips, turnips, sweet potatoes, celery root, or carrots, toss them with 1 tablespoon olive oil, and roast on a baking sheet or in a roasting pan at 400°F for 20 minutes (or use leftover cooked root vegetables). Cool and add to the quinoa in Step 2.

Wheat Berry Salad with Zucchini and Mozzarella

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 20 minutes with cooked grains

Assuming you have some kind of cooked grains in the fridge (always a good idea), this salad comes together quickly. Wheat berries are my first choice because of their unsurpassed chewiness, but even small grains like rice, cracked wheat, quinoa, and whole wheat couscous (or even cut pasta) work just fine. Roasted bell peppers are a tasty and colorful addition, especially ones that you make yourself (see page 417). And if you’ve got roasted garlic handy (or feel like cooking a batch; see page 421), it’s a beautiful change from the raw garlic here.

¼ cup pine nuts

3 or 4 medium zucchini (about 1½ pounds), halved lengthwise

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and black pepper

2 cups cooked wheat berries (see page 271)

1 teaspoon minced garlic, or to taste

½ cup fresh dill, or 1 teaspoon dried

3 tablespoons sherry or white wine vinegar

1 cup cubed mozzarella, optional

1. Toast the pine nuts in a small, dry skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until lightly browned. Remove from the pan.

2. Turn on the broiler; the heat should be medium-high and the rack about 4 inches from the fire. Brush the zucchini with the 1 tablespoon oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and broil, turning as needed, until lightly charred on both sides and beginning to soften, 5 minutes or more. When they’re cool enough to handle, cut the zucchini into chunks or slices.

3. Toss together the zucchini, wheat berries, garlic, and about half of the dill in a large salad bowl. Add the vinegar and ¼ cup oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss again. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. (The salad can be made ahead to this point and refrigerated for up to a day.) To serve, toss the mozzarella into the salad, along with the remaining dill.

White Bean Salad with Zucchini and Mozzarella. Substitute cooked white beans for the wheat berries.

Chopped Cauliflower Salad, North African Style

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 25 minutes

Quickly cooking the cumin, coriander, and cinnamon in the warm dressing concentrates their flavors and helps them soak into the cauliflower (the fragrance is amazing). This is one of those uncommon salads that benefits from refrigerating for a day—but it’s best served at room temperature.

Salt

1 large cauliflower, cored

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 small red onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon coriander

¼ teaspoon cinnamon

Black pepper

Juice of 1 lemon

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it; set up a bowl of ice water. Add the cauliflower to the boiling water and cook until you can just barely pierce the center with a skewer or thin-bladed knife (you want it still quite crisp), 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the cauliflower, plunge it in the ice water, and let cool for a few minutes. Drain the cauliflower well and roughly chop.

2. Dump the cooking water, put the oil in the same pot, and turn the heat to medium. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring once or twice, until they are no longer raw. Stir in the cumin, coriander, cinnamon, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Stir in the lemon juice and turn off the heat.

3. Toss the cauliflower with the warm dressing in the pot. Taste, adjust the seasoning if necessary, and garnish with chopped parsley. Serve immediately. (Or wait to add the parsley, refrigerate for up to a day or 2, bring the salad back to room temperature, and toss with the parsley right before serving.)

Soba Salad with Walnuts, Sea Greens, and Miso Dressing

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 20 minutes

Cold noodles and seaweed make a refreshing yet hearty salad. If you can find yuzu—a type of citrus sold in Asian markets—grab it; usually you’ll wind up with lemons and limes, which are fine. Some possible additions: leftover cooked (especially grilled) shrimp, chicken, beef, pork, or tofu.

Salt

4 to 6 ounces soba noodles

1 ounce wakame, arame, or hijiki

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon fresh yuzu, lemon, or lime juice

2 tablespoons white or light miso

1 tablespoon mirin or 1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste

½ cup chopped walnuts, preferably toasted

¼ cup chopped shallot, scallions, or red onion

Pinch of cayenne

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Drop in the noodles and cook them until they’re tender but not mushy, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and rinse in a colander under cold running water.

2. Meanwhile, rinse the seaweed once, then soak it in water to cover by at least 3 inches. When it is tender, about 5 minutes later, drain and gently squeeze the mixture to remove excess water. Pick through the seaweed to sort out any hard bits (there may be none) and chop or cut it up (you may find it easier to use scissors than a knife) if the pieces are large.

3. In a large salad bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, citrus juice, miso, and mirin. Add the noodles, seaweed, walnuts, and shallot and toss. Taste and season with cayenne and salt as needed. Serve immediately (or refrigerate for up to 2 hours before serving).

Soba Salad with Walnuts and Spinach. Substitute 1 pound spinach leaves for the seaweed and omit Step 2. Instead heat the soy sauce, citrus juice, miso, and mirin in a large pot or skillet. When the dressing is almost (but not quite) boiling, add the spinach, cover, and remove from the heat. Let rest for 5 minutes, then toss until well coated. Add the remaining ingredients. Serve warm or at room temperature (or refrigerate for up to 2 hours before serving).

Wild Rice Salad with Smoked Anything

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour

Wild rice goes so well with smoked foods that you can use smoked fish, smoked meat, even smoked tofu, all with great results. If you’re using salmon, chunks of steaks or fillets are best, but if you can’t find them, just use sliced smoked salmon instead.

1 cup wild rice

Salt

1 pound cucumbers, peeled and seeded if you like, and chopped

½ cup pecans, toasted if you like

8 ounces chopped smoked salmon, trout, whitefish, tofu, bacon (cook it first), or sausage (cook it if necessary)

¼ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice, or to taste

½ cup fresh dill, or 1 teaspoon dried

Black pepper

1. Put the wild rice in a saucepan with 3 cups water and a large pinch of salt. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Cover and cook undisturbed for 30 minutes, then start checking every 5 minutes or so. The rice is done when it is puffed up and very tender. Add more water if necessary; if it’s done and you have excess water, drain the rice. When the rice is ready, fluff it with a fork and remove it from the heat. (The rice can be made up to a day ahead and refrigerated; bring to room temperature before proceeding.)

2. While the rice cooks, toss the cucumbers with a large pinch of salt in a colander or strainer and let them sit for 20 minutes or so. Rinse, drain, and pat dry with a clean towel.

3. Combine the rice, cucumbers, pecans, smoked salmon (or whatever you’re using), oil, lemon juice, and dill. Sprinkle with lots of black pepper, stir, then taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt or lemon juice if necessary. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Succotash Salad

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

This is the perfect use for fresh shell beans—if you can find them. But even frozen limas, favas, black-eyed peas, or edamame will give this flavor and texture you can’t get with cooked dried beans. This salad also makes a nice bed for a bit of grilled sausage, a slice of bacon, or other grilled meats or fish. You must use fresh corn here; try grilling the cobs before you remove the kernels.

2 cups fresh or frozen lima beans, fava beans, black-eyed peas, or edamame

4 ears fresh corn

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar, or more as needed

¼ cup olive oil

Salt and black pepper

1 red bell pepper, chopped

½ cup chopped scallions

1. If the beans are frozen, put them in a colander and run them under cold water for a minute or 2; set them aside to drain.

2. Husk the corn. Carefully cut the kernels from the cobs with a sharp knife, slicing away from you; save as much of their juice as you can.

3. Put the vinegar, oil, and a pinch each of salt and pepper in a large bowl and whisk until well combined. Add the beans, corn kernels, bell pepper, and scallions and toss. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more vinegar if necessary. Serve (or cover and refrigerate for up to a day).

Black Bean and Corn Salad. Substitute 2 cups cooked black beans for the fresh or frozen beans, and the juice of 1 lime for the cider vinegar. Garnish with chopped cilantro and a crumble of queso fresco if you like.

Lentil Salad with Peas and Green Beans

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

I don’t often use nut oils, but I like them in salads, where they can turn a simple dressing into something magnificent. Hazelnut oil will take this salad from very good to terrific. Or toast the hazelnuts to intensify their flavor.

Brown lentils are the easiest variety to find, but green, black, and Le Puy also work well here.

Salt

1 cup brown lentils

8 ounces green beans, cut into 2-inch segments

1 cup fresh or frozen peas

¼ cup hazelnut or olive oil

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, or to taste

1 shallot, chopped

Black pepper

½ cup chopped hazelnuts, toasted if you like

4 ounces sliced or crumbled goat cheese, optional

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Add the lentils, cover, and reduce the heat to medium so the water bubbles gently. When the lentils are just beginning to soften—after 7 to 10 minutes or so—add the green beans. Cook for another 5 minutes, then taste the lentils. If they’re still hard, cook for a few minutes longer; if they’re mostly tender, add the peas and cook for another minute.

2. When the lentils are tender but not mushy, transfer everything to a colander, rinse under cold running water, and drain well.

3. Transfer the lentils, green beans, and peas to a large salad bowl (it’s okay if they’re still a little warm). Add the oil, vinegar, shallot, and plenty of salt and pepper. (You can make the salad and refrigerate for up to a day ahead at this point; bring it to room temperature before proceeding.) Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve, topped with the hazelnuts and goat cheese if you’re using it.

Cherry Tomato–Edamame Salad

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Edamame and tomatoes complement each other beautifully, right down to their colors. That said, you could certainly substitute trimmed green beans or cubed firm tofu for the soybeans; just boil and cool them as described in Step 1.

The effortless and flavorful soy dressing here is probably something you’ll want to make often, because it goes wonderfully with many raw and cooked vegetables, especially grated carrots or radishes. Shiso, also known as perilla, are those spade-shaped purple or green leaves that sometimes add a bright note to sushi; you can find them in many Asian markets (they’re also incredibly easy to grow).

1½ cups shelled fresh or frozen edamame

2 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste

Pinch of sugar, or to taste

2 teaspoons sesame oil

3 cups cherry or grape tomatoes, halved crosswise

Chopped fresh hot red chile (like Thai or habanero) to taste, optional

Black pepper

½ cup chopped fresh mint, Thai basil, or shiso, for garnish

1. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the edamame and cook until just tender, about 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water.

2. Combine the soy sauce, sugar, and oil in a large bowl. Add the edamame, tomatoes, and chile if you’re using it, and sprinkle with pepper. Stir gently to coat the tomatoes and soybeans with dressing.

3. Let stand at room temperature for up to 15 minutes, stirring once or twice. Taste and add more soy sauce and black pepper if you like. Serve garnished with the herb.

Chickpea Salad with Cashew Chutney

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 30 minutes with cooked or canned chickpeas

Big-flavored chutneys and salsas make terrific salad dressings; just thin them with a little oil and maybe a few drops of water, vinegar, or citrus juice to get the texture you want. Here, you start with spiced cashews and toss the quick chutney with chickpeas and fresh mango or apricot. When these fruits are out of season, try the same recipe with orange or tangerine segments or use about ½ cup chopped dried mango or apricots.

1 teaspoon cumin or coriander seeds, or a combination

½ small dried hot red chile (like Thai), or to taste

½ cup cashews (raw are fine)

1 small garlic clove

Salt and black pepper

3 cups cooked or canned chickpeas, drained

1 cup chopped fresh mango or apricots

Juice of 1 lime

Olive oil as needed

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

¼ cup plain yogurt, optional

1. Toast the seeds, chile, and cashews in a small, dry skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan frequently, until everything colors slightly and becomes fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a blender or food processor and add the garlic and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Process, stopping the machine to scrape down the sides if necessary, until finely ground but not as smooth as peanut butter.

2. Toss the chickpeas and fruit with the chutney in a salad bowl, adding the lime juice and a little oil if needed to help bring everything together. Stir in the cilantro and taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately, drizzled with some of the yogurt if you’re using it. (Or cover and refrigerate for up to a day.)

Fava Bean, Asparagus, and Lemon Salad

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 25 minutes

Thanks to quickly made “preserved” lemon and a fair amount of mint, the dressing for this salad is incredibly bright. Crisp-tender asparagus provides a nice foil, but you will get even more contrast if you roast, broil, or grill the asparagus, which doesn’t take much more time.

2 lemons, well washed

Salt and black pepper

¼ cup olive oil

1 pound asparagus, peeled if thick, cut into 2-inch pieces

1 cup shelled fava beans (frozen are fine)

½ cup chopped fresh mint

1. Chop 1 whole lemon (peel and all) and combine with the juice of the second lemon, a pinch of salt and pepper, and the oil in a large bowl. Let sit while the vegetables cook.

2. Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil. Add some salt and the asparagus and fava beans. While they are cooking, set up a bowl of water with lots of ice cubes in it. The asparagus are done when they are just tender enough to pierce with a thin-bladed knife; the favas should be completely cooked through but not mushy, 3 to 5 minutes. When everything is done, remove the asparagus and beans with a small strainer or slotted spoon, plunge in the ice water, and cool for a few minutes.

3. Drain the asparagus and favas well, then add them to the bowl with the lemon. Add the mint and toss. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve immediately (or refrigerate for up to a couple of hours).

Marinated Pressed Tofu with Vegetables

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 20 minutes, plus 2 hours to marinate

The thin pieces of tofu and grated vegetables soak up tons of flavor from the marinade, just as long as you leave enough time for them to sit in the fridge—figure a couple hours or so. Make sure that you either press some of the water out of regular firm tofu or buy dry pressed tofu, which is much firmer and perfect for marinating, since it doesn’t have much moisture to start with.

If this seems too complicated, let me tell you that the combination of tofu, celery, and this dressing is quite fabulous.

8 ounces dry pressed tofu, or extra-firm or firm tofu squeezed and patted dry (see the sidebar on page 177)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons minced fresh hot chile (like Thai or serrano) or chile paste, hot sauce, or chile flakes to taste

¼ cup sesame oil

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 medium to large carrots, grated

2 celery stalks, grated

1 large cucumber, grated or julienned

1 daikon radish, grated or julienned

1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced

1. Cut the tofu into 2-inch matchsticks. Whisk together the soy sauce, chile, sesame oil, and vinegar in a large bowl.

2. Add the tofu and remaining ingredients, toss, and marinate for at least 2 hours in the refrigerator, stirring once or twice. Toss again immediately before serving.

Plum Chicken Salad

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes with leftover cooked chicken

Firm plums are perfect here, but chicken tastes good with almost any fruit, so if plums aren’t available, try peaches, apples, pears, berries, or even tropical fruit. You can vary the nuts too (check out the variation).

About 8 ounces fresh plums, pitted and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

¾ cup chopped almonds

Salt and black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried

¼ cup olive oil

2 celery stalks, thinly sliced

½ red onion, chopped

8 ounces roasted or grilled boneless, skinless chicken, chopped or shredded (about 2 cups)

6 cups mixed greens (like mesclun), torn into bite-size pieces

1. Toss the plums with the vinegar in a large salad bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes and up to 2 hours.

2. Meanwhile, put the almonds in a dry skillet over medium heat and toast, shaking the pan frequently, until they are aromatic and beginning to darken, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

3. Sprinkle the plums with salt and pepper and add the oregano, oil, celery, onion, and chicken; toss to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. (The salad can be made ahead to this point and refrigerated for up to an hour.) To serve, divide the greens evenly among 4 plates and top each with some of the plum-chicken mixture, or add the greens to the salad bowl and toss everything together. Garnish with the toasted almonds.

Fig Chicken Salad. Substitute fresh figs, quartered, for the plums and use hazelnuts instead of almonds.

Gingered Tomato Salad with Shrimp

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

The flavors of ceviche inspire this quick salad, with lots of ginger as an added twist. To make a meal of it, toss the finished dish with crisp spinach or lettuce leaves while it’s still warm. You can also substitute garlic for half (or all) of the ginger.

Olive oil as needed

2 tablespoons minced ginger

8 ounces shrimp (about 1 dozen medium shrimp), peeled (see page 22)

Salt and black pepper

3 tablespoons lime juice

¼ cup chopped scallions

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for garnish

4 large ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into wedges

1. Pour enough oil in a medium skillet to cover the bottom of the pan in a thin layer; turn the heat to low. When the oil is warm, add the ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes.

2. Raise the heat to medium-high and add the shrimp and some salt and pepper. Stir and continue to cook, shaking the pan once or twice and turning the shrimp until they are pink all over, about 5 minutes.

3. Transfer the shrimp to a salad bowl and toss with the lime juice, scallions, cilantro, and tomatoes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with additional cilantro (or refrigerate for up to 2 hours before serving).

Chile Tomato Salad with Crab. Substitute 1 to 2 seeded and minced fresh hot chiles (like jalapeño or Thai) for the ginger. Instead of shrimp, use 8 ounces lump crab meat, chopped; cook it in the oil just long enough to heat through before tossing with the other ingredients.

Italian-American Antipasto Salad with Tomato Vinaigrette

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Use this recipe as a model for any combination of raw or cooked vegetables that you like. Roasting, grilling, broiling, or even steaming some of them will add even more contrast. I like eating whole basil leaves in this salad, but for something more subtle, toss them in the blender with the tomato. If you like anchovies, add a couple of fillets to the dressing.

1 large ripe tomato, seeded and roughly chopped

¹/₃ cup olive oil

Salt and black pepper

1 head romaine lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces

1 cup fresh basil

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

1 carrot, chopped

1 celery stalk, chopped

1 small cucumber, chopped

1 red bell pepper, chopped, or 1 cup sliced roasted red peppers (for homemade, see page 417)

½ cup olives, pitted

1 or 2 pickled pepperoncini or fresh hot peppers, sliced

4 ounces fresh mozzarella, cubed

4 thick slices prosciutto or salami, chopped

1. Combine the tomato, oil, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper in a blender. Turn the machine on and blend until a creamy emulsion forms, about 30 seconds.

2. Toss together all of the remaining ingredients in a large salad bowl. Drizzle on the tomato vinaigrette and toss again. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve.

Crudité Salad with Tomato Vinaigrette. Substitute 2 cups parboiled and shocked vegetables (like asparagus slices, snap peas, peas, broccoli stems, or green beans) for the olives, mozzarella, and prosciutto.

Grilled Eggplant Salad with Tomato Vinaigrette. Omit the carrot, celery, cucumber, mozzarella, and prosciutto, but use the other ingredients called for. Cut about 1 pound eggplant into thick slices, brush with olive oil, and grill or broil until tender. When the slices are done cooking, roughly chop them, then toss with the romaine and tomato vinaigrette. Garnish with crumbled feta, ricotta salata, or dry pecorino if you like.

Thai Beef Salad

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 25 minutes

Skirt or flank steak are the best cuts to use for this salad (they’re also among the cheapest), but feel free to use strip or rib-eye. For a switch from beef altogether, try the seafood variation or cook some chicken breast, sliced tofu, or vegetables as described in Step 1.

8 ounces skirt or flank steak

6 cups mixed salad greens, torn into bite-size pieces

1 cup torn fresh mint, cilantro, or Thai basil, or a combination

¼ cup chopped red onion

1 cucumber, peeled if you like, seeded, and chopped

1 small fresh hot red chile (like Thai), or to taste, minced

Juice of 2 limes

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon nam pla (fish sauce) or soy sauce

½ teaspoon sugar

1. Prepare a grill or turn on the broiler; the heat should be medium-high and the rack about 4 inches from the fire. Grill or broil the beef, turning once or twice, until medium-rare, 5 to 10 minutes total depending on the thickness; set it aside to cool slightly. (You can prepare the recipe up to this point and refrigerate for up to a day; bring the meat to room temperature before proceeding.)

2. Toss the lettuce with the herbs, onion, and cucumber. Combine all of the remaining ingredients with 1 tablespoon water (the dressing will be thin) and toss half of this mixture with the greens. Remove the greens to a platter, reserving the remaining dressing.

3. Thinly slice the beef, reserving its juice; combine the juice with the remaining dressing. Lay the slices of beef over the salad, drizzle the dressing over all, and serve.

Thai Seafood Salad. Substitute any firm white fish, shrimp, squid, or scallops for the beef. (Firm white fish fillets like halibut or cod will take about as much time to cook as the beef; shrimp, squid, and scallops will take about half as much time.)

Puffed Rice Salad with Chickpeas and Coconut

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes with cooked or canned chickpeas

One of my favorite Indian snacks (or chaat) is called bhelpuri, which combines crunchy puffed rice (think bigger, less sweet Rice Krispies) with coconut, vegetables, and a kind of chickpea noodle known as sev. I’ve streamlined the recipe and tossed everything with a coconut-lime dressing.

The salad is perfect when some grains of the puffed rice (use puffed brown rice cereal, or go to an Indian market) are still crunchy, while others have softened a bit in the surrounding flavors—but don’t let it sit for too long before serving or it’ll get soggy. When tomatoes aren’t in season, try using a not-overripe mango instead.

½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut

1 cup cooked or canned chickpeas, drained

1 carrot, chopped

1 cucumber, peeled and seeded if you like, chopped

1 red bell pepper, chopped

½ cup chopped scallions

½ cup coconut milk

3 tablespoons lime juice

2 teaspoons curry powder

Salt and black pepper

2 cups puffed brown rice cereal

1 large ripe tomato, cored and chopped

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Put the coconut in a dry skillet over medium-low heat. As soon as it becomes fragrant, stir or shake it almost constantly until lightly browned and toasted, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

2. Combine the chickpeas, carrot, cucumber, bell pepper, and scallions in a large salad bowl. Add the coconut milk and lime juice, sprinkle with the curry powder, salt, and pepper, and toss well. Add the toasted coconut, puffed rice, tomato, and cilantro and toss again. Let the salad rest for a couple minutes (but not more than 10). Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary and serve.

Corn-Avocado Salad (with a Little Something Seared on Top)

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

I call for scallops in this stunning restaurant-style summertime salad, but you can use the same quantity of chicken breast, peeled shrimp, cleaned squid, boneless pork chop, steak, or extra-firm tofu. Just cut them into four portions if necessary and cook the pieces virtually the same way, adjusting the cooking time as needed.

4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed

2 small corn tortillas, cut into strips

4 to 6 ears fresh corn, stripped of their kernels (2 to 3 cups)

1 small red onion, chopped

1 teaspoon mild chile powder (like ancho) or regular chili powder

½ red bell pepper, chopped

1 ripe tomato, peeled if you like, seeded, and chopped

1 avocado, skin and pit removed, chopped

Juice of 1 orange

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for garnish

Salt and black pepper

8 small or 4 large scallops (about 8 ounces)

1. Put a thin film of oil in a large skillet and turn the heat to medium-high. When the oil is very hot but not yet smoking, add the tortilla strips and fry until crisp, about 5 minutes on each side. Remove the tortilla strips from the skillet and drain on paper towels.

2. Wipe out the skillet with a paper towel, return it to high heat, and add 2 tablespoons of the oil. When the oil is hot, toss in the corn and onion. Let it sit for a minute or so, then stir or shake the pan and brown the vegetables a bit, 5 minutes or less. Transfer the corn and onion to a large salad bowl and stir in the chile powder. Add the bell pepper, tomato, avocado, orange juice, and cilantro and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss well, taste, and adjust the seasoning.

3. Wipe out the skillet and return it to the burner once more, this time over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and, 30 seconds later, the scallops. Turn them as they brown, allowing about 2 minutes per side (less for scallops under 1 inch thick, somewhat more for those well over 1 inch). Sprinkle them with salt and pepper as they cook; put them on top of the salad as they finish. Garnish with the reserved tortilla strips and additional cilantro and serve.

My Favorite Vinaigrette

Makes: About 2/3 cup

Time: 5 minutes

A simple vinaigrette is one of the most useful and versatile recipes in all of cooking. This version is about as traditional as it gets, but once you know it, there are no limits to how you can use and vary it (see the variations and sidebar that follow).

¹/₃ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, or more to taste

Salt and black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, or to taste

1 medium shallot (or ½ small onion, or 2 scallions) cut into chunks, optional

1. Combine everything but the shallot in a blender and turn the machine on; an emulsion will form within 30 seconds. Taste and add more vinegar a teaspoon or 2 at a time until the balance tastes right to you.

2. Add the shallot and turn the machine on and off a few times until the shallot is minced within the dressing. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve. (This is best served fresh but will keep a few days in a glass jar in the refrigerator; bring back to room temperature and shake briefly before using.)

My Favorite Vinaigrette Without a Blender. If you don’t have a blender, mince the shallot and combine it in a bowl with the vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper. Slowly drizzle in the oil, whisking constantly, until all of the oil is incorporated. Don’t worry if your emulsion doesn’t look perfectly smooth; just whisk again right before using. (You can also simply combine the ingredients in a jar and shake until smooth, about 1 minute.)

Herb Vinaigrette. Add chopped herbs to the blender or bowl (¹/₃ cup for milder herbs like parsley, basil, or dill, or 1 teaspoon for stronger herbs like thyme, tarragon, or rosemary).

Tofu Mayo

Makes: About 1 cup

Time: 10 minutes

Here is a delicious homemade vegan mayo. To make this more of a sauce, add some soy milk, water, or a little more olive oil.

6 ounces soft silken tofu (about ¾ cup)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, or to taste

1 tablespoon honey or sugar, optional

¼ teaspoon paprika, optional

¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste

1. Put all the ingredients in a blender. Turn the machine to a medium speed that keeps things moving without splattering. Let it run for a minute or 2, then turn it off.

2. Scrape the sides of the container with a rubber spatula, turn the blender back on, and repeat the process two more times. Taste and add more salt if necessary. Serve immediately (or store in a jar in the refrigerator for up to several days).

Bread-and-Nut Mayo

Makes: About 1 cup

Time: 10 minutes

Like the tofu mayo above, this homemade vegan mayo is going to taste much better than store-bought eggless mayonnaise or, for that matter, most store-bought “real” mayonnaise. Plus both vegan mayos keep for days, if not longer.

Bread-and-Nut Mayo is based on skordalia, the classic Greek sauce that tastes great with almost anything. Use whole wheat bread here if you like but stay away from breads with seeds or bits of grain.

1 small slice day-old bread, preferably whole wheat

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more as needed

½ cup almonds, walnuts, or cashews

1 garlic clove, or to taste

1 ½ teaspoons lemon juice, or to taste

Salt and black pepper

1. Put the bread in a bowl and wet it with a few tablespoons of water. Squeeze the bread dry, then put it in a food processor with the oil, nuts, and garlic. Process the mixture until the nuts are ground. With the machine running, slowly pour in ¼ cup water, followed by a drizzle of oil to form a creamy sauce as thick or thin as you like.

2. Add the lemon juice and some salt and pepper and process to combine. Serve immediately (or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days).