I have eaten pasta at least once a week for my entire adult life, but the style in which I eat it has changed. When I was young, just exploring Italian cooking, and (seemingly) invincible to weight gain, a one-pound box of pasta often served two. A few years later, as I was researching and testing recipes for my first cookbook (and old enough to put on a few pounds), I realized that a four-ounce portion was far more typical—and reasonable.

A couple years ago, though, I started drifting toward a more-sauce-less-pasta approach. Now I almost always prefer dishes that use pasta and noodles as an integral part—but not the focus—of the dish. What’s important is that I realized that the best thing about pasta is usually the sauce, whether it’s all-vegetable or a sauce containing dairy, fish, or meat.

Throughout much of this transition I’ve stuck to pasta made with traditional semolina. There’s no question that whole grain pastas can be an acquired taste, and there’s no reason why you have to exclude “white” noodles from your diet, just as you wouldn’t avoid moderate amounts of good white bread. And that’s part of the beauty of the more-sauce-less-pasta philosophy: It’s the best of both worlds.

That said, I suggest trying whole grain pastas in the recipes here. If you’re already familiar with them, these sauces will offer new ways to treat them; if not, then consider these dishes an informal, friendly introduction. In all cases, you can substitute standard noodles whenever you like. (You can also skip the pasta entirely and serve these sauces over grains, plain cooked beans, even toasted bread.)

As in the other chapters in the book, the easiest, fastest, and most familiar dishes appear up front, including a smattering of Asian-inspired noodles; bean, seafood, chicken, and meat additions follow. (At the end are a handful of relatively simple dumplings.) Some pasta dishes are great at room temperature and therefore qualify as salad; these have been marked with the Make-Ahead icon.

One last word about cooking pasta and other noodles: The cooking times for dried pastas vary wildly, and people’s personal preferences only somewhat less so. So taste and use your judgment. The recipes give a lot of guidance and follow the linear progression of the dish: set the water to boil, make the sauce, boil the noodles, toss. If you have a lot of kitchen experience and are comfortable multitasking, you can pull the dish together even faster if you set the water to boil, begin the sauce, put the noodles in the pot, and finish the sauce while the noodles cook. Remember that the noodles will keep cooking when you toss them in the sauce, so plan on draining them just before they’re done to your liking.

Pasta with All-Purpose Tomato Sauce

Makes: 4 servings (about 1 quart sauce)

Time: 30 minutes

Tomato sauce—even when made from canned tomatoes—is fast (as fast as cooking pasta), easy, and good year-round on just about anything. Try it on simply cooked vegetables, chicken, or fish, or as a braising liquid for tofu, fresh beans, or vegetables. It reheats well, so use this recipe to make a big batch. Toss as much as you like with the pasta and keep the rest in the fridge for several days, or in the freezer for months.

Salt

¼ cup olive oil

1 large onion or 2 medium onions, chopped

Black pepper

About 4 pounds canned whole or diced tomatoes (two 28- or 35-ounce cans), chopped, liquid reserved

½ cup chopped fresh parsley or basil, optional

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat, optional

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1. If you are cooking pasta, bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in another large pot over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the onion, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the tomatoes. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down and the mixture comes together and thickens a bit, 10 to 15 minutes. For a thinner sauce, add some or all of the reserved liquid and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes; if you want a thick sauce, save the liquid for another use. Taste the sauce, adjust the seasoning if necessary, stir in the herb if you’re using it, and keep warm. (Or let cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to several days; reheat gently before serving.)

3. Cook the pasta (or not) in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta with at least half of the sauce, adding enough reserved cooking liquid to keep it moist. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately, passing the Parmesan at the table if you like. (Save any leftover sauce for another use.)

Fresh Tomato Sauce. Instead of canned tomatoes, use chopped fresh Roma (plum) or any ripe meaty tomatoes. Peel and seed them if you like, but I almost never bother.

Homemade Salsa. For either the main recipe or the fresh variation above. In Step 1, after the onion cooks for about 2 minutes, add 2 or more chopped fresh jalapeño, serrano, or other fresh hot chiles (with the seeds if you like; they’re hot) along with 2 tablespoons minced garlic. Instead of parsley or basil, finish Step 2 with chopped cilantro.

Garlicky Tomato Sauce. Omit the onion. Mince 4 or more garlic cloves and add them to the hot oil in Step 1. Reduce the cooking time to a minute or so, just until they begin to brown. Proceed with the recipe.

Pasta with Broccoli Rabe and Bread Crumbs

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Broccoli rabe, crisped bread crumbs, and whole wheat pasta make a satisfying one-dish meal. And this recipe is a snap to vary just by changing the pasta shape or using a different sturdy green, including chopped broccoli. If you have roasted garlic (for homemade, see page 421) on hand—lucky you—just add some to the skillet in place of (or along with) the fresh garlic. Note that the Parmesan is optional here; I never use it in dishes like this, but others do—your call.

Salt

½ cup olive oil, or more as needed

1 cup bread crumbs, preferably whole grain and homemade

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic, or to taste

About 1 pound broccoli rabe, chopped

½ cup white wine or water

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

Black pepper

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put half of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the bread crumbs, sprinkle with salt, and cook until golden, 5 minutes or so. Remove with a slotted spoon.

2. Add the remaining ¼ cup oil to the pan and let it heat a bit. Add the onion, garlic, and a little salt and cook, stirring occasionally until the onion begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the broccoli rabe and wine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rabe is quite tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain it, reserving some of the cooking water. Toss the pasta in the skillet with the rabe mixture, the bread crumbs, a good sprinkling of black pepper, and some of the reserved pasta cooking water. Stir and heat until the mixture is saucy, adding a little more pasta cooking water (or oil) if necessary. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve, passing the cheese at the table if you like.

Pasta with Broccoli Rabe, Anchovies, and Bread Crumbs. In Step 2, add 4 anchovies (or more, if you like) to the skillet along with the onion and garlic; wait to salt the dish until you assemble it. Mash the anchovies with a fork or potato masher as the onion cooks, then proceed with the recipe.

Pasta with Any-Herb Pesto

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Traditional pesto Genovese is, of course, based on basil. But even though some purists (especially Genoans) might scoff, lots of herbs taste great puréed with oil and garlic, with or without nuts. If you want to use stronger herbs like rosemary, thyme, tarragon, marjoram, or oregano, limit yourself to a tablespoon per batch and make up the bulk with parsley, basil, dill, or another less-intense herb.

You’ll probably have a few spoonfuls of the pesto left over; fortunately it’s as good with cooked vegetables or grains, or as part of a sauce or dip, as it is with pasta. It freezes well, too, but hold off on adding the cheese until you thaw it.

Salt

2½ loosely packed cups fresh basil, parsley, mint, chives, dill, cilantro, or any combination (see the headnote)

1 small garlic clove, or to taste

2 tablespoons pine nuts or roughly chopped walnuts

½ cup olive oil, or to taste

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for garnish, optional

Black pepper

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Combine the herbs with a pinch of salt, the garlic, nuts, and about half the oil in a food processor or blender. Process, stopping to scrape down the sides of the container if necessary and adding the rest of the oil gradually. (At this point, the pesto can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks or frozen for up to several months.)

2. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta with the pesto, Parmesan if you’re using it, and a sprinkling of black pepper, adding cooking water as necessary to keep the mixture from drying out. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately with a little extra Parmesan for passing at the table.

Pasta with Herb and Goat Cheese Pesto. Rich and tangy. Substitute 2 ounces crumbled goat cheese for the Parmesan.

Any-Herb Pesto with Asian Flavors. Toss this with just-cooked soba noodles or use with rice or stir-fries. For the herb, use cilantro, mint, Thai basil, or a combination. Use ginger or lemongrass instead of (or along with) the garlic. For the oil, use 2 tablespoons sesame oil combined with 6 tablespoons vegetable oil. If you’re adding nuts, walnuts, pistachios, cashews, or peanuts are all good choices.

Pasta with Tender Greens

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Thanks to my old friend Jack Bishop for sharing this clever, ultrasimple technique, which leaves you with less cleanup than most. Tender greens cook along with the pasta, retaining their vibrant color. Use any green that you might eat in salad: spinach, arugula, watercress, pea shoots, mizuna, tatsoi, or even romaine or shredded Napa cabbage. For a heartier dish use sturdy greens or add thick slices of waxy potato. (Both take a bit longer to cook; see the variations.)

Salt

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

About 1½ pounds tender greens (see the headnote)

¼ cup olive oil or butter, or a combination

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Black pepper

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Add the pasta. Cook the pasta until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then add the greens and stir. As soon as the greens are tender—this could be in 10 seconds—drain, reserving some of the cooking water.

2. Return the pasta and greens to the pot, toss with the oil or butter, the cheese if you’re using it, garlic, and a good amount of black pepper; add enough of the reserved cooking water just to moisten the mixture. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve.

Pasta with Hearty Greens. Instead of the tender greens, use chopped escarole, chard, kale, head cabbage, turnip greens, mustard greens, or beet greens. Add them to the pot when the pasta has cooked for about 5 minutes and proceed with the recipe.

Pasta with Tender or Hearty Greens and Potatoes. Cut about 1 pound waxy potatoes in half if they’re small, or in thick slices if they’re large. Add them to the pot of water when you set it to boil. Once it does, add the pasta and proceed with either the main recipe or the variation above.

Pasta with Caramelized Fennel and Onion

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

This technique for cooking fennel and onion releases their natural sweetness and makes for a wonderfully rich sauce. The variations bulk up the dish a bit, but additions can be as simple as adding a crumble of bacon or a little chopped cooked shrimp or lump crab meat to the cooking vegetables just before tossing in the pasta.

Salt

3 large or 4 medium fennel bulbs, cored and sliced

1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced

Black pepper

4 tablespoons olive oil

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

½ cup white wine, optional

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the fennel, onion, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper in a large, deep skillet over medium-low heat. Cover and cook, stirring every 5 minutes, until the vegetables have given up their liquid and are almost sticking to the pan. Add 3 tablespoons of the oil, raise the heat to medium-high, and cook, uncovered, until the vegetables are nicely browned, 5 to 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes). When it’s almost done, turn the heat under the skillet to medium, add the white wine or some of the pasta cooking water to the pan, and stir to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom. Drain the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water. Toss the pasta in the pan with the fennel and onion, adding a little of the pasta cooking water if the dish seems dry. Taste, adjust the seasoning if necessary, and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Serve immediately.

Pasta with Creamy Caramelized Fennel and Onion. Add 2 tablespoons or more cream to the fennel and onion along with the white wine in Step 2.

Pasta with Caramelized Fennel and Onion with Sausage. In Step 1, begin by heating 1 tablespoon of the oil in the skillet over medium-high and crumble in 8 ounces hot or sweet Italian sausage. Cook and stir, uncovered, until it is nicely browned; turn the heat to medium-low before adding the fennel and onion. Proceed with the recipe, using just 2 tablespoons of oil when you uncover the pan and raise the heat later in Step 1.

Pasta with Smashed Peas, Prosciutto, and Scallions

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Flavoring peas with prosciutto is nothing new, but combining the result with pasta or rice is a little unusual. Roughly mashing the peas with some of the cooking water gives you a rich and rustic sauce that clings nicely to the pasta.

Salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 ounces prosciutto, chopped

1 bunch scallions, white and green parts separated, all chopped

Black pepper

3 cups fresh or thawed frozen peas

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese, optional

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the prosciutto and cook until it is crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the white parts of the scallions and a sprinkling of salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, a few minutes more. Stir in the peas and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then turn off the heat.

2. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes). When it’s almost done, return the peas to medium heat, add some of the cooking water, and roughly mash the peas. Drain the pasta, reserving a little more of the cooking water. Stir enough water into the peas to make a sauce, then toss in the pasta, chopped scallion tops, and pecorino if you’re using it. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve immediately.

Pasta with Seared Roma Tomatoes and Ricotta

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

It pays to really sear the tomatoes here—don’t be too afraid of burning them—so their flesh becomes very dark brown and their skin nearly black. The ricotta balances their full flavor with rich creaminess. If you want more refinement, chop up the cooked tomatoes before tossing with the pasta. Canned tomatoes are fine in this recipe, though less distinctive; to keep the sauce from being too thin, drain them beforehand.

Salt

¹/₃ cup olive oil, plus more as needed

4 pounds ripe Roma (plum) tomatoes, cored and halved lengthwise

Black pepper

1 tablespoon minced garlic

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

½ cup chopped fresh basil

½ cup ricotta cheese

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add as many of the tomatoes as will fit in a single layer, skin side down. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. When the skins begin to blacken, after 5 minutes or so, turn the tomatoes. Continue cooking and turning for another 5 to 10 minutes, until they’re deeply colored on both sides; remove them from the skillet. Repeat with the remaining tomatoes, adding more oil to the skillet as necessary to prevent them from sticking. (If you do wind up with lots of burnt bits on the bottom of the pan, quickly rinse and dry the pan, return it to the heat, and add another tablespoon of oil before you continue.)

2. When you’re done, return all the tomatoes and any accumulated juices to the pan along with the garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, for a minute or 2, then turn off the heat. (You can make the sauce ahead of time and refrigerate for up to a day; gently reheat while the pasta is cooking.)

3. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Turn the heat under the skillet to medium, add about ½ cup of the cooking water, and stir to loosen the bits that have stuck to the bottom of the pan. Toss the pasta, basil, and ricotta in the skillet with the tomatoes, moistening with more pasta cooking water as needed. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Pasta with Artichokes

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

There have been springs in recent years when I ate artichokes almost daily, and this combination has become one of my favorites. Taking apart whole artichokes can be intimidating at first, but it requires only enthusiastic peeling and trimming—you won’t go wrong—and the results are well worth it. This sublime sauce is perfect with fresh pasta if you’ve got it.

Salt

4 large or 12 baby artichokes

Juice of ½ lemon

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon heavy cream

Black pepper

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. If you’re using large artichokes, cut them into halves or quarters; remove the leaves (you can save them for another use) and the choke (the fuzzy cluster of leaves above the heart). Trim the bottom and trim and peel the stem. If the artichokes are small, peel off the toughest leaves and trim the bottom; there should be no choke, or it should be small enough to ignore. Thinly slice the artichokes. Remove ½ cup of the artichokes in a bowl with the lemon juice and cold water to cover.

2. Cook the pasta in the boiling water and start tasting after about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, put the oil and butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the rest of the sliced artichokes and the garlic and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes.

3. When the pasta is tender but not mushy, drain it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta in the skillet with the artichokes, adding reserved cooking water as necessary to moisten. Drain the reserved artichokes and toss them in along with the cream, a sprinkling of black pepper, and the parsley. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve with Parmesan.

Pasta with Artichokes and Baby Spinach. Add 2 cups baby spinach leaves to the artichoke mixture at the end of Step 2. Stir just until wilted and proceed with Step 3.

Noodles with Spicy Vegetable Stir-Fry

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

These are not unlike cold sesame (or peanut) noodles, but a) they’re hot and b) they contain tons of vegetables. You can add or substitute almost any vegetable for those listed—chopped tomato, cubed winter squash, peas or snow peas, green beans, parboiled broccoli—as long as you keep the total quantity about the same (your cooking times might vary a bit of course).

The same goes for different nut butters: cashew, almond, and tahini are all quite good. To spin this dish in a Southeast Asian direction, use nam pla (fish sauce) instead of soy sauce, and—if you have it—add some lemongrass along with the garlic.

Salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large onion, halved and sliced

1 cup chopped or grated carrot

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1 fresh hot chile (like jalapeño or Thai), seeded and minced, or to taste

Grated zest of 1 lime

1½ pounds eggplant, zucchini, summer squash, or a combination, peeled as necessary and cut into chunks

8 ounces any rice, buckwheat (soba), or wheat noodles, preferably whole grain

1 cup coconut milk

¹/₃ cup peanut butter

1 tablespoon sugar or honey, optional

3 tablespoons soy sauce

Black pepper

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro or Thai basil

Lime wedges

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and carrot and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes or so. Stir in the garlic, chile, and lime zest, then add the eggplant, zucchini, or squash. Cook, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as necessary so the vegetable cooks quickly without burning, until softened (zucchini will cook faster than eggplant), 10 to 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, cook the noodles in the boiling water until tender but not mushy. Check them frequently: The time will vary from a minute or 2 for thin rice noodles, to 5 minutes for soba, or up to 12 minutes for wide brown rice noodles. When the noodles are just tender, drain them, reserving some of the cooking water.

3. Whisk together the coconut milk, peanut butter, sugar or honey if you’re using it, and soy sauce. Add the coconut mixture and noodles to the skillet and toss, adding noodle cooking water if necessary to moisten. Sprinkle with pepper, taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve hot, garnished with cilantro and lime wedges.

Vegetable Fried Noodles

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Like fried rice, the combination of stir-fried vegetables and noodles is infinitely variable. For the vegetables, add sliced broccoli, asparagus, zucchini, lettuce, cabbage, spinach, or hearty greens at the beginning; or stir in tender greens at the end—they’ll all work just fine.

To make the dish more substantial, start Step 2 by quickly cooking thin strips of pork (see the variation), beef, or chicken, or cubes of tofu, or a few shrimp in the hot oil. Remove them and proceed with the recipe, adding a little more oil if necessary.

Salt

8 ounces any rice, buckwheat (soba), or wheat noodles, preferably whole grain

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon minced ginger

1 cup chopped scallions

2 large carrots, chopped, sliced, or julienned

3 celery stalks, chopped, sliced, or julienned

2 cups snow peas

¼ cup stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water, or more as needed

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 egg, beaten, optional

Black pepper

¼ cup chopped peanuts, for garnish

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Cook the noodles in the boiling water until tender but not mushy. Check them frequently: The time will vary from a minute or 2 for thin rice noodles, to 5 minutes for soba, or up to 12 minutes for wide brown rice noodles. Drain the noodles and quickly rinse under cold running water. Toss them with the sesame oil to prevent sticking.

2. Put the vegetable oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the garlic, ginger, and scallions. Cook, stirring, for about 15 seconds. Add the carrots, celery, snow peas, and stock and turn the heat to high. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender, 5 to 10 minutes. If the mixture cooks bone dry, add a couple tablespoons more liquid.

3. Stir in the soy sauce and the beaten egg if you’re using it and let the egg lightly scramble in the pan. Now add the noodles, sprinkle with pepper, and toss well. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with chopped peanuts and serve.

Vegetable and Pork Fried Noodles. Start Step 2 by frying 8 ounces of thinly sliced pork shoulder or sirloin in the oil. Cook for a minute or 2, then remove it from the pan and proceed with the recipe. Stir the cooked pork back in along with the noodles in Step 3.

Teriyaki Noodles with Asparagus and Edamame

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Just by adding a little extra liquid, you can turn virtually any stir-fry into an excellent sauce for tossing with noodles, rice, or other grains. Asparagus is particularly nice here because it browns beautifully, but you can use green beans or sliced broccoli as alternatives. (I peel thick asparagus, which isn’t strictly necessary, but it only takes a minute and makes it much less fibrous. Or skip the whole thing and use broccoli florets.) For a spicier sauce, add a couple dried red chiles to the skillet along with the garlic and ginger.

1½ pounds asparagus, peeled if thick, cut into 2-inch lengths

Salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ cup chopped scallions

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 tabespoon minced garlic

8 ounces any rice, buckwheat (soba), or wheat noodles, preferably whole grain

2 cups shelled edamame, fresh or frozen (thaw them while you assemble the dish)

¼ cup soy sauce

¼ cup mirin, or 2 tablespoons honey mixed with 2 tablespoons water

1. If the asparagus is thick, parboil it, then shock it in a bowl of ice water and drain (see page 414). If the spears are thin, don’t bother.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put a large skillet over high heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the oil, wait a few seconds, and add the asparagus and scallions. Cook, stirring, for a minute, then stir in the ginger and garlic. Cook until the asparagus is dry, hot, and beginning to brown and get tender, 5 to 10 minutes; remove the pan from the heat.

3. Cook the noodles in the boiling water until tender but not mushy. Check them frequently: The time will vary from a minute or 2 for thin rice noodles, to 5 minutes for soba, or up to 12 minutes for wide brown rice noodles. Drain the noodles, reserving some of the cooking liquid.

4. Turn the heat under the asparagus to medium. Add the noodles, edamame, soy sauce, mirin, and about ½ cup of the reserved water to the skillet; continue to cook, stirring, until the asparagus and edamame are heated through, about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Divide the noodles among 4 bowls, spooning any extra broth in the pan over all. Serve hot.

Teriyaki Noodles with Asparagus and Chicken. Omit the edamame. Before adding the asparagus and scallions to the skillet in Step 2, add 8 ounces sliced boneless, skinless chicken breast or thigh meat. Stir once, then let the chicken sit for 1 minute to brown. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is no longer pink, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the asparagus and scallions to the skillet and proceed with the recipe.

Mushroom and Pasta Frittata

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

In general, you wouldn’t cook pasta specifically for making a frittata, but this recipe is worth the (rather negligible) extra effort. Of course, if you have leftover cooked pasta, all the better (you can skip Step 2). Instead of the mushrooms, try this dish with red bell peppers and onions.

Salt

3 tablespoons olive oil

About 1½ pounds mushrooms, preferably an assortment, sliced

Black pepper

8 ounces any long pasta, preferably whole wheat, or about 4 ounces (2 cups) cooked pasta

1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 eggs

2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage, or 1 teaspoon dried

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it if you need to cook the pasta. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, sprinkle with lots of salt and pepper, and stir. Cover, turn the heat down to medium-low, and cook, undisturbed, until the mushrooms have released a fair amount of liquid, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the lid and turn up the heat until the liquid bubbles steadily. Cook, undisturbed, until the liquid boils off, about 5 more minutes.

2. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water until tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain it well.

3. Add the onion and garlic to the skillet with the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms are dry, shrunken, and fairly crisp, about 5 minutes more. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the pasta. Beat the eggs with the sage and pour over all, using a spoon if necessary to distribute them evenly. Cook, undisturbed, until the eggs are barely set, 10 minutes or so. (You can set them further by putting the pan in a 350°F oven for a few minutes or running it under the broiler for a minute or 2.) Serve hot or at room temperature.

Pasta with Shell Beans and Red Onion

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 40 minutes

Fresh shell beans are available from midsummer into fall and are absolutely delicious—grab a bunch when you see ’em, and if they’re already shucked, so much the better. Buy a ton and freeze some; out of season, they’re a real treat. (Commercially frozen shell beans are a good substitute. There’s no need to thaw them, and in fact they will probably take less time to cook than fresh ones.)

Salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 large red onions, halved and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Black pepper

3 cups fresh shell beans (about 3 pounds in their pods), or use frozen

1 cup white wine, stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140), or water

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the onions and garlic, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the shell beans, wine, and thyme. Partially cover and bubble gently until the beans are tender and the onions are starting to dissolve, 15 to 25 minutes. Keep warm over low heat.

2. When the beans are ready, cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta with the beans and onions, adding some of the reserved cooking water as you toss to keep things moist. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle with the Parmesan, toss, and serve immediately or at room temperature.

Pasta with Puréed Red Beans and Shiitakes

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

The combination of shiitakes and puréed beans is delicious and memorable, but it’s important to use beans with a creamy texture (lively color helps too)—so stay away from gritty beans like black-eyed peas and brown lentils.

Salt

¼ cup olive oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

8 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced

Black pepper

2 cups cooked or canned red kidney or pinto beans, drained, liquid reserved

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the garlic and mushrooms, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Purée the beans by putting them through a food mill or using an immersion blender; add as much liquid as you need to make a smooth but not watery sauce. Add the bean purée to the skillet and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes, just to warm everything through. Remove the pan from the heat.

3. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes). When it’s almost done, return the sauce to medium heat. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking liquid, and toss with the sauce, adding a little cooking liquid if it seems too thick. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Top with the Parmesan and parsley and serve.

Ziti with Silky Cabbage, Oranges, and Chickpeas

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

Pasta and oranges may seem like a strange combination, but remember—tomatoes are a fruit too. And here the juice adds a background sweetness to the slow-cooked cabbage, while the fresh segments give a burst of acid at the end and combine nicely with the cheese’s saltiness and the chile’s heat. Hearty and bright at the same time, this dish is especially nice in winter.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 fresh hot chile (like serrano or Thai), minced

1 medium Savoy or other white cabbage (about 1 pound), cored and shredded

2 oranges, 1 juiced and the other peeled and cut into segments or wheels

Salt and black pepper

8 ounces ziti, preferably whole wheat

2 cups cooked or canned chickpeas, drained

½ cup grated ricotta salata cheese

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano, or 2 teaspoons dried

1. Put the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the garlic and chile and cook, stirring, until they begin to soften, a minute or 2. Add the cabbage and orange juice and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally and adding a little water if necessary to keep the mixture just moist, until the cabbage is very soft, about 30 minutes.

2. When the cabbage is about halfway done, bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Cook the ziti in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes). When it’s almost done, stir the chickpeas and orange segments into the pan with the cabbage. Drain the ziti, reserving some of the cooking water, and toss it with the cabbage and chickpeas, adding a little cooking water to keep the pasta moist. Stir in the ricotta salata and oregano. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve immediately or at room temperature.

Pasta with Fried Zucchini and Cannellini in Vinegar Sauce

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour, largely unattended

You don’t see vinegar in pasta dishes too often, but here just a little balances the richness of the vegetables and makes the dish perfect for serving at room temperature. If you’re in a rush, you can skip salting the zucchini, but it does change the texture quite a bit. If you salt the zucchini, be sure to rinse them well and wait to salt the dish until after you toss it. The beans for this dish should be quite tender; it’s a good place to use canned if you don’t have time to start with dried.

1 pound zucchini, cut into ½ 3-inch sticks

Salt

Olive oil as needed

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Black pepper

2 cups cooked or canned cannellini or other white beans, drained

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, or to taste

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

½ cup chopped fresh mint, dill, or parsley

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. Sprinkle the zucchini with salt and let it rest in a colander for 20 minutes. Rinse the zucchini and pat dry.

2. When the zucchini is ready, bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put about ½ inch oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, put in a few pieces of zucchini; cook in batches as necessary, making sure not to crowd the pan and adding more oil as needed. Cook, turning the zucchini pieces so they brown evenly; total cooking time will be 5 minutes or a little longer. As the pieces finish, remove them to drain on paper towels. Add more zucchini to the pan and repeat until all are done.

3. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the pan and turn the heat to medium. Add the onion and garlic and sprinkle with pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion has begun to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the beans and mash with a fork or potato masher until they are more or less broken up with a few remaining chunks. Remove the pan from the heat.

4. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes). Drain it, reserving about 1 cup cooking water. Toss the pasta in the skillet with the zucchini, vinegar, herb, and enough of the pasta cooking water to keep everything moist. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately or at room temperature, passing the cheese at the table.

Provençal Tomato Sauce with Pasta

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 40 minutes

Take classic ratatouille, add enough tomatoes to make it saucy, and you have a dish that’s good even at room temperature, whether served with pasta or bread or both. Since the sauce is so chunky, a cut pasta—like penne, ziti, or one of the more exotic shapes—is best.

1 medium or 2 small eggplants, cut into large cubes

Salt

6 tablespoons olive oil

Black pepper

2 small zucchini, chopped

8 ounces mushrooms, sliced

1 small onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 red bell pepper, chopped

6 tomatoes, cored and chopped (canned are fine; drain their juice)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried

8 ounces any cut pasta, preferably whole wheat

¼ cup crumbled feta cheese

½ cup chopped fresh basil, for garnish

1. If time allows, sprinkle the eggplant liberally with salt, let rest in a colander for 20 minutes, rinse, and pat dry. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it.

2. Put 4 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the eggplant, sprinkle with pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels.

3. Put the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in the pan, add the zucchini and mushrooms, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the onion, garlic, and bell pepper; cook and stir until they are soft, another 5 minutes or so. Add the tomatoes and thyme and cook for another minute until the tomatoes just start to release their juice. Return the eggplant to the pan, stir, and turn off the heat. (The sauce can be made ahead to this point. Cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to a few days or freeze for up to a few months.)

4. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes). When it’s almost done, reheat the sauce over medium heat. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking liquid, and toss with the sauce, adding a little cooking liquid if it seems too thick. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Scatter the feta and basil on top. Serve immediately or at room temperature.

Pasta with Asparagus, Bacon, and Egg

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

A little egg goes a long way in a pasta sauce—it adds flavor, color, sauciness, and richness, not something you can say about too many other single ingredients. That’s why it appears frequently in some of the classics (think carbonara). Cook the asparagus a few minutes longer if you prefer—it’s a toss-up between crunch and vibrant color when it’s slightly underdone, and tenderness and fully developed flavor when it’s well cooked.

Salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 ounces chopped bacon, pancetta, or guanciale

1½ pounds asparagus, peeled if thick, cut into 2-inch pieces

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

2 eggs

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Black pepper

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil and bacon in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the bacon has started to soften and brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the asparagus and raise the heat a bit. Cook until it has softened but is still crunchy, 5 to 10 minutes depending on its size. Turn off the heat.

2. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes). Meanwhile, warm a large bowl and beat the eggs in it. Stir in the bacon and asparagus along with any fat that the bacon has rendered.

3. When the pasta is done, drain it, reserving some of the cooking water. Immediately toss it with the egg and asparagus mixture, adding some of the cooking water if necessary. Add the cheese and plenty of black pepper, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve.

Pasta with Rich Leek “Pesto”

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

It’s worth noting that “pesto” means “paste” and comes from the same root as “pestle”—as in “mortar and …” Since pasta also comes from that root, you might describe this recipe as Rich Leek Paste Tossed with Paste. But with a thick, custardy texture that’s a lot like a carbonara or cream sauce, it’s much better than that, I promise. At the last minute, toss with a crumble of crisp cooked prosciutto, pancetta, or bacon for a nice addition.

If leeks aren’t in your game plan, yellow onions are almost as good when caramelized and puréed.

¼ cup olive oil

4 or 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

About 1½ pounds leeks (2 or 3 large), trimmed, well rinsed, and chopped

Salt

1 egg

1 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

Black pepper

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. When it’s hot, add the garlic and leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft, 20 to 30 minutes.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Transfer the leeks to a blender or food processor with the egg, parsley, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Process, stopping to scrape down the sides of the container if necessary. Return the purée to the skillet, off heat.

3. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Turn the heat under the leek mixture to medium, add about ¼ cup of the reserved cooking liquid to thin the pesto, and toss in the pasta along with the cheese. Add more liquid as desired and toss. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve.

Baked Rigatoni with Brussels Sprouts, Figs, and Blue Cheese

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

Many cheesy baked pastas depend on béchamel—the classic sauce made with flour, butter, and milk—for creaminess. But this is a very cool alternative that combines a variety of textures and flavors (including fruit) without diluting the taste of the cheese. Pears, apples, and cranberries would all be fine here, and if you’re not keen on blue cheese, try fontina, Gruyère, or anything that melts easily.

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for greasing the pan

Salt

8 ounces rigatoni, preferably whole wheat

1½ pounds Brussels sprouts, roughly chopped

4 ounces Gorgonzola or other blue cheese, crumbled

6 to 8 fresh figs, or 1 cup dried, chopped

Black pepper

¼ cup chopped almonds, for garnish

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Grease a 9 × 13-inch baking pan with a little olive oil. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Add the pasta and cook it halfway through (start checking after 3 minutes; it should still be quite firm inside). Add the Brussels sprouts to the pot and cook, until the pasta and vegetables are just barely tender, another 3 minutes. Drain, reserving some of the cooking water, and return the pasta and Brussels sprouts to the pot.

2. Stir in the blue cheese, figs, the 2 tablespoons oil, and a splash of the cooking water. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, toss, and taste and adjust the seasoning. Turn the pasta mixture into the prepared pan.

3. Bake, checking once or twice and adding a bit more of the cooking water if the pasta looks too dry, until the mixture is bubbling, 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish with chopped almonds and serve.

Creamy Cauliflower Mac

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 45 minutes

Vegetables are comfort food too, as proved by this recipe, which is sure to please anyone who loves mac-and-cheese. The “secret” is cauliflower’s miraculous ability to turn creamy when puréed. If you don’t want to wash out a blender or food processor (and don’t mind some lumps), use a potato masher to purée the cauliflower in the same pot you cooked it in. The main recipe is quite saucy; for a less smooth texture, try the variation.

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for greasing the baking dish

Salt

2½ cups vegetable or chicken stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water

2 bay leaves

1 cauliflower, cored and separated into large pieces

8 ounces elbow, shell, ziti, or other cut pasta, preferably whole wheat

½ cup grated cheese (like sharp cheddar, Gruyère, or Emmental or a combination)

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, or to taste

¹/₈ teaspoon nutmeg, or to taste

Black pepper

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

½ cup or more bread crumbs, preferably whole grain and homemade, optional

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Grease a 9-inch square baking dish with a little oil. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the stock with the bay leaves in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. When small bubbles appear along the sides, about 5 minutes later, turn off the heat and let stand.

2. Cook the cauliflower in the boiling water until very tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Scoop the cauliflower out of the water with a slotted spoon and transfer it to a blender or food processor. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until still somewhat chalky inside and not yet edible, about 5 minutes. Drain it, rinse it quickly to stop the cooking, and put it in the prepared baking dish.

3. Remove the bay leaves from the stock. Carefully process the cauliflower with 2 cups of the stock, the 2 tablespoons oil, the cheese, mustard, nutmeg, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. (You may have to work in batches.) If the sauce seems too thick, add the remaining ½ cup stock. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Pour the sauce over the pasta, toss, and spread the mixture evenly in the dish. (You can make the dish to this point, cover, and refrigerate for up to a day; return to room temperature before proceeding.)

4. Sprinkle the top with the Parmesan and bread crumbs if you’re using them. Bake until the pasta is bubbling and the crumbs turn brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve hot.

Less Creamy Cauliflower Mac. Cut the cored head of cauliflower in half instead of into large pieces. In Step 2, cook only half of the cauliflower until it’s very tender, then transfer it to the blender or food processor as described. Chop the remaining half of the cauliflower into large pieces and add them to the boiling water along with the pasta. Proceed with the recipe.

Grilled Vegetable and Fresh Tomato Lasagna

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour

Nicely grilled vegetables turn traditionally heavy lasagna into a fantastic—and easy—summertime party dish. (To serve eight or more, make a double recipe; it’ll fit in a 9 × 13-inch baking dish or pan.) If the eggplant and zucchini are soft or seedy, you can improve their flavor and texture by sprinkling the slices with salt, putting them in a colander, and letting them sit for at least 30 minutes, preferably 60. (It isn’t necessary if you don’t have time, but it’s worth it if you do.)

In winter, roast the vegetables in a 400°F oven and make a batch of All-Purpose Tomato Sauce (page 194) instead of using fresh tomatoes. (In fact, you can use tomato sauce any time of year for a more traditional lasagna.)

1 large eggplant, cut lengthwise into ¼-inch slices (see the headnote)

2 zucchini, cut lengthwise into ¼-inch slices (see the headnote)

3 portobello mushrooms

1 large onion, sliced into ¼-inch rounds

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed

Salt and black pepper

9 dried lasagna noodles (about 6 ounces), preferably whole wheat

4 ounces ricotta cheese (about ½ cup)

4 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, chopped

4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, or more as needed

1 cup whole basil leaves

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 egg

4 ripe tomatoes, cut crosswise into ¼-inch slices

1. If time allows, sprinkle the eggplant and zucchini liberally with salt, let rest in a colander for 20 minutes, rinse, and pat dry. Prepare a grill to medium-high heat and put the rack about 4 inches from the fire. Brush the eggplant, zucchini, mushrooms, and onion with 2 tablespoons of the oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill, turning and brushing with more oil if they look too dry, until nicely browned on both sides, about 10 minutes total. Remove them as they finish; cut the mushrooms into slices and set all the vegetables aside.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Cook the noodles until just tender but still too hard to eat, 4 to 8 minutes. Drain the noodles carefully into a colander and lay them flat on towels until you are ready to layer them.

3. Put the ricotta, mozzarella, half of the Parmesan, the basil, garlic, egg, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper in a blender or food processor. Turn on the machine and blend or process until a thick purée is formed, 20 to 30 seconds.

4. Heat the oven to 400°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square baking dish with a little olive oil. Put 3 of the noodles in the bottom of the pan; if they overlap slightly, that’s okay. Cover the noodles with a thin layer of the cheese purée, then with a layer of grilled vegetables, and finally with a layer of sliced fresh tomatoes. Repeat twice more, pressing everything down into the pan as you go and ending with a layer of tomatoes. Sprinkle the remaining Parmesan on top, plus a bit more if needed to cover everything evenly. (The lasagna can be assembled to this point, covered, and refrigerated for up to several hours before proceeding.) Cover with foil and bake for 15 minutes, then remove the foil and continue baking until the lasagna is bubbly, another 5 to 15 minutes. Remove it from the oven and let it rest for 5 minutes before cutting and serving.

Bowties with Arugula, Olives, Bulgur, and Fresh Tomato Wedges

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes, largely unattended

Think of this as a Greek pasta salad; it’s bright and light and has the perfect mix of Mediterranean flavors. After you finish cooking, let it sit for a bit before serving so that the bulgur and bowties soak up the flavors and the arugula wilts a little; it works equally well served warm or at room temperature.

I cook the bulgur with the pasta here, which makes things easier, but it means you must use a strainer, not a colander, to drain the water. If you don’t have one, cook the bulgur separately (see page 271). And for an earthier spin, try doubling the bulgur and reducing the quantity of pasta.

Salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small red onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 cup mixed olives, pitted and roughly chopped

Juice of 1 lemon

4 ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into thick wedges

½ cup crumbled feta cheese, or to taste

Black pepper

¼ cup bulgur

8 ounces bowtie or other cut pasta, preferably whole wheat

3 cups torn arugula leaves

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in the olives, then add the lemon juice, tomatoes, and feta. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook until the tomatoes are just heated through. Turn off the heat.

2. When the water comes to a boil, add the bulgur. Let the water return to a boil, then add the pasta. Cook the bowties until tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes). Reserve some of the cooking water, then drain in a strainer to trap the grains with the pasta.

3. Toss the pasta and bulgur with the tomato mixture, adding some of the cooking water if necessary. Stir in the arugula and taste and adjust the seasoning. Let the dish sit for up to 15 minutes. Stir again and serve.

Pasta with Red Peppers and Shrimp Sauce

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 45 minutes

A quick shrimp stock makes this sauce perfect, but if you use other quick-cooking seafood like squid or scallops, use a cup of vegetable or chicken stock or, if you have neither of them, water in its place. And if you happen to have saffron around, add a pinch to the liquid as it simmers for a distinctive Mediterranean flavor and lovely color.

8 ounces medium to large shrimp, in their shells (see page 22)

1 cup dry white wine

Salt and black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

6 red bell peppers, cut into strips

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 fresh hot chile (like Thai or jalapeño), minced, or to taste

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or marjoram, plus a few leaves for garnish, or 1 teaspoon dried

1. Peel the shrimp and chop the flesh. Put the shells in a medium saucepan with 1 cup water, the wine, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Bubble gently for 10 minutes, then strain the liquid (discard the shells). Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it.

2. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the peppers and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and chile and cook for just a minute. Add the shrimp stock and turn the heat down to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the peppers are quite soft and the liquid is reduced to a cup or so, 10 to 15 minutes. Lightly mash the peppers with a fork or potato masher.

3. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes); drain it, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the chopped shrimp to the skillet and cook for about a minute. Add the pasta and oregano and toss, moistening with the reserved cooking water as necessary (you probably won’t need much). Serve hot, garnished with a few leaves of oregano if you have it.

Pasta with Tomatoes and Shrimp Sauce. Substitute 1½ pounds fresh Roma (plum) tomatoes, peeled if you like, seeded, and roughly chopped, for the bell peppers.

Paella Made with Noodles

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Rice, of course, is the basis for classic paella. But this faster version combines vegetables, seafood, and noodles, broken into smaller pieces as in the Spanish cousin of paella called fideos. You can cook the noodles in plain water, but if you’ve got even a little bit of vegetable, seafood, or chicken stock lying around, this is a good time to use it.

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

8 ounces any long, thin pasta, preferably whole wheat, broken into 2-inch or shorter lengths

Salt and black pepper

½ teaspoon saffron threads, optional

1 teaspoon paprika

2 cups fresh or frozen peas

1 bell pepper, chopped

½ cup water or stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140), plus more as needed

8 ounces scallops, squid, clams, mussels, or shrimp, or a combination (see page 22)

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Lemon wedges

1. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until they begin to soften, 3 to 5 minutes; remove from the pan with a slotted spoon. Add the noodles to the pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring constantly, until they brown (try not to let them blacken).

2. Return the onion and garlic to the pan and add the saffron, paprika, peas, and bell pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, for 2 to 3 minutes more. Add the water and cook, stirring and adding more liquid if things start to stick, until the noodles are nearly tender and everything is just starting to dry out, about 15 minutes.

3. Stir in the seafood and cook, stirring occasionally and adding a little more water or stock if you like, until it is just cooked through (large shrimp and scallops will take about 5 minutes; small or chopped shrimp about 3 minutes; squid no more than 1 minute). Taste and adjust the seasoning. Stir in the parsley and serve with the lemon wedges.

Linguine with Cherry Tomatoes and Clams

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Linguine with clams is iconic, but if you’ve never made it with fresh clams, you’re in for a real treat. This recipe also works with mussels (or shrimp or squid; cut the cooking time in Step 2 to about 3 minutes). Don’t skimp with the olive oil here; when it combines with the clam juice and wine, the sauce is pure heaven.

Salt

About ½ cup olive oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved crosswise

½ cup dry white wine or water

1½ pounds littleneck or other hard-shell clams or cockles, well scrubbed, those with broken shells discarded

2 sprigs fresh thyme, or a few pinches dried

8 ounces linguine or other long pasta, preferably whole wheat

Black pepper

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put ¼ cup of the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the garlic and cook, stirring, for about a minute.

2. Stir in the tomatoes, wine, clams, and thyme. Raise the heat to high, cover, and cook, gently shaking the skillet or stirring the clams occasionally, until the first few of them open, about 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until almost all of the clams are open (if any don’t, you can open them with a butter knife), about 3 more minutes. (If you like, remove the shells from the clams and return the clams to the skillet; I leave them whole.) If the pasta isn’t ready, turn off the heat.

3. Meanwhile, cook the linguine in the boiling water until tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Turn the heat under the clams to medium; add the pasta and cook for a minute or so, stirring and sprinkling with salt, pepper, and the remaining ¼ cup oil. Add a bit of the reserved cooking water if the mixture seems dry (which is unlikely). Stir in the parsley, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve.

Dried Tomatoes and Clams with Pasta. Cut pasta like bowties or corkscrews are good here. Substitute 1 cup dried tomatoes for the cherry tomatoes. Increase the wine or water to 1 cup.

Pasta with Tomatoes, Tuna, and Capers

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Tuna, tomatoes, and capers, a can’t-miss combination that comes straight from the pantry, goes beautifully with pasta—or spooned over grilled bread or alongside a bed of greens. Use tuna packed in olive oil if you can find it (I hate to say it, but the European versions are best) and make sure to pour the oil right into the sauce (it has tremendous flavor).

Salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, chopped

One 28- or 35-ounce can tomatoes, chopped; include their juice

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

¼ cup white wine

One 6-ounce can tuna packed in olive oil

2 tablespoons capers

½ teaspoon red chile flakes

Black pepper

½ cup chopped fresh basil

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their liquid and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down and the mixture becomes saucy, 10 to 15 minutes. Turn the heat down to low.

2. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water until tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid.

3. Return the sauce to medium-high heat. Add the pasta, wine, tuna with its oil, capers, and red chile flakes and cook and stir for another minute. Add a good sprinkle of black pepper along with the basil; toss well, adding a little of the cooking water if the sauce seems too thick. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately or at room temperature.

Ma-Ma’s Pasta “Milanese”

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour, largely unattended

It’s hard to argue that there’s anything Milanese about this crazy but delicious recipe from Kerri Conan’s maternal grandmother. Her family were Sicilians who immigrated to New Orleans via Tunisia around the turn of the century. Whether they brought this pasta with them is unknown, but the dish (which is not unlike other Sicilian pasta dishes I know) is still popular among the Italian community in Louisiana. The name, however, just doesn’t match the ingredients—especially the cauliflower, sardines, and pecans—which are a better reflection of “Ma-Ma’s” journey than anything you’ll find in Milan.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 green bell pepper, chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

Salt and black pepper

2 tablespoons minced garlic

Two 3.75-ounce cans sardines, preferably packed in olive oil

¼ cup tomato paste

1 cup red wine or water, or more as needed

One 28- or 35-ounce can chopped or whole tomatoes; include their juice

1 small cauliflower, cored and roughly chopped

½ cup raisins or currants

½ cup chopped pecans or walnuts

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat (Ma-Ma used regular spaghetti or linguine)

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the onion, bell pepper, and celery and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until everything is soft and the onion becomes translucent, about 5 minutes. (If you’re using whole tomatoes, now is a good time to core them and break them up a bit.) Stir in the garlic, sardines with their oil, and tomato paste and cook until the mixture is fragrant and starting to stick to the bottom of the pan.

2. Stir in the wine and scrape up any bits on the bottom of the pan. Add the tomatoes and cauliflower. Sprinkle again with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat so that the mixture bubbles steadily, then partially cover and cook, stirring once in a while, until the cauliflower is extremely soft and disintegrating, 20 to 30 minutes; add more wine or water if the mixture gets too thick. Stir in the raisins and nuts. (The sauce can be made ahead to this point. Cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to a few days or freeze for longer; gently reheat before proceeding.)

3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Cook the pasta until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Toss with the sauce, adding enough reserved liquid to keep it moist. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve.

Cold Noodles with Cucumber, Avocado, and Crab

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Quick-pickling the cucumbers—a good basic technique that only takes a tablespoon salt and 15 minutes—gives them the exact texture and flavor you want to grace these cold noodles. While the cucumbers pickle and the water boils, you can prep the other ingredients, so the dish comes together nicely. If you wait until the last minute to add the avocado and crab, you can combine the noodles and cucumbers up to an hour before and keep them chilled or at room temperature.

Salt

3 medium cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and grated

1 tablespoon minced ginger

8 ounces rice, buckwheat (soba), or wheat noodles, preferably whole grain

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 avocado, skin and pit removed, chopped or sliced

8 ounces lump crab meat

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

¼ cup chopped peanuts

Lemon wedges

Soy sauce, for serving

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the cucumbers and ginger in a colander, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon salt, and toss well. Let the mixture sit in the sink for about 15 minutes, then rinse with cold water and set the colander aside to drain.

2. Cook the noodles in the boiling water until they’re tender but not mushy. Check them frequently: The time will vary from a minute or 2 for thin rice noodles, to 5 minutes for soba, or up to 12 minutes for wide brown rice noodles. Drain the noodles, rinse with cold water, transfer to a serving bowl or platter, and toss with the oils. Top the noodles with the cucumbers, avocado, crab, cilantro, and peanuts and toss again. Serve, passing the lemon wedges and soy sauce at the table.

Crisp Noodle Cake with Stir-Fried Greens and Shrimp

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

A noodle cake makes a fantastic side dish, snack, or base for a stir-fry, where it soaks up all of the savory juices. You don’t need much else to call this a meal, though a beer alongside wouldn’t hurt.

1½ pounds bok choy, gai lan (Chinese broccoli), tatsoi, or other Asian green

Salt

8 ounces any rice, buckwheat (soba), or wheat noodle, preferably whole grain

3 tablespoons soy sauce, plus more to taste

2 teaspoons sesame oil

4 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more as needed

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 fresh hot chile (like jalapeño or Thai), seeded and minced, or to taste

Black pepper

8 ounces shrimp, peeled (see page 22)

½ cup chopped scallions

½ cup chopped peanuts, optional

1. Cut the leaves from the stems of the bok choy. Trim the stems and cut them into 1-inch pieces; cut the leaves into bite-size pieces or ribbons. Rinse everything well.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Cook the noodles until tender but not mushy. Check them frequently: The time will vary from a minute or 2 for thin rice noodles, to 5 minutes for soba, or up to 12 minutes for wide brown rice noodles. Drain them and rinse with cold water. Toss the noodles with 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce and 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil.

3. Put 3 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the noodles and press down a bit. Cook, pressing down occasionally, until brown and crisp on the bottom (adjust the heat so the noodles brown but do not burn). Carefully put a large dish over the skillet and flip it to turn out the cake. Add a little more oil to the pan, swirl it around, and gently slide the cake off the plate and back into the skillet, uncooked side down, all in one piece. Brown the other side, then slide it onto a platter. (At this point you can cut the cake into 4 wedges, or wait and roughly break it apart after topping.)

4. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the skillet. Add the ginger, garlic, and chile and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the bok choy stems, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the stems just lose their crunch, about 3 minutes.

5. Add the shrimp to the pan along with the bok choy leaves, scallions, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 teaspoon sesame oil, and ½ cup water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid evaporates and the stems are very tender, about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more soy sauce if necessary. Serve the stir-fry over the noodle cake, topped with peanuts if you like.

Crisp Noodle Cake with Stir-Fried Greens and Tofu. Instead of the shrimp, cut 8 ounces extra-firm tofu into cubes and dry on paper towels. Proceed with the recipe.

Noodles with Gingered Miso Carrots and Chicken

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

A spoonful of miso adds oomph to just about anything, but it has a special affinity for carrots. In general, the darker the miso, the more intense it tastes, but all miso must be heated gently—if you boil it, you will literally cook the flavor right out of it.

I like this with soba noodles, but you can use whole wheat spaghetti or rice noodles too. Daikon radishes or jícama are nice alternatives to carrots.

Salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

8 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast or thighs, cut into chunks

Black pepper

2 tablespoons minced ginger

1 pound carrots, grated

8 ounces any rice, buckwheat (soba), or wheat noodles, preferably whole grain

½ cup miso

½ cup chopped scallions

Rice vinegar, for serving

Sesame oil, for serving

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the chicken, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and let it sit for about a minute. Add the ginger and stir; cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is no longer pink, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the carrots and cook, stirring, until they start to wilt, about 2 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2. Cook the noodles in the boiling water until they’re tender but not mushy. Check them frequently: The time will vary from a minute or 2 for thin rice noodles, to 5 minutes for soba, or up to 12 minutes for wide brown rice noodles. Drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid.

3. Turn the heat under the skillet to medium. Whisk the miso with ½ cup of the cooking water, then pour this mixture over the carrot mixture. Toss in the noodles, adding more cooking water as needed to keep the mixture moist. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then sprinkle with the scallions. Serve hot or at room temperature, passing rice vinegar and sesame oil at the table for drizzling.

Sesame Noodles with Spinach and Salmon

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

The flavors of oshitashi—Japanese spinach salad garnished with shaved dried bonito flakes—are at play here, only the fish is fresh salmon. I love the flavor and texture of seared salmon skin, but you can discard it if you prefer. (In either case, don’t eat the scales!). Instead of the spinach, you might try shredded Napa cabbage.

Salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

8 ounces salmon fillet, preferably wild (see page 22)

Black pepper

1 tablespoon minced garlic

3 tablespoons sesame seeds

1½ pounds spinach, roughly chopped

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon sesame oil

8 ounces buckwheat (soba) noodles or whole wheat spaghetti

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the vegetable oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s very hot, sprinkle the salmon on both sides with salt and pepper and sear it in the pan until nicely browned on both sides, about 6 minutes total. Remove from the pan and cut or flake it into bite-size pieces.

2. Reduce the heat under the skillet to medium. Add the garlic and sesame seeds and cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic begins to soften and the sesame seeds turn golden, about 30 seconds. Add the spinach and cook, stirring, for another minute or 2. Add the soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, and a splash of water and cook until the spinach is wilted, another 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.

3. Cook the noodles in the boiling water until they’re tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking water. Turn the heat under the spinach mixture to medium and add the noodles and reserved salmon. Toss, adding enough reserved liquid to keep things moist. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve immediately or at room temperature.

Sesame Spinach and Tofu with Noodles. Instead of the salmon, cut 8 ounces firm tofu into 4 thick slices and brown about 2 minutes per side. Proceed with the recipe. Serve a slice of tofu on top of each serving of noodles.

Pasta with Mushrooms, Chicken, and Red Wine

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

It’s hard to go wrong with mushrooms and red wine, especially in fall and winter. For extra intensity, soak a few dried porcini mushrooms in boiling water for a few minutes until they’re soft, add them along with the fresh mushrooms, and use the soaking liquid to moisten the dish instead of the pasta cooking water in Step 3. Once you try this, you’ll return to this technique often when cooking mushrooms.

Salt

2 tablespoons olive oil, or more as needed

8 ounces boneless, skinless chicken thighs or breast, cut into chunks

About 1½ pounds mushrooms, preferably an assortment, sliced

1 onion, halved and thinly sliced

Black pepper

½ cup red wine

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley, optional

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the chicken and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Remove the chicken from the skillet with a slotted spoon.

2. Turn the heat to medium-low and add a little more oil if the pan seems dry. Add the mushrooms and onion and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Stir once, then cover and cook, undisturbed, until the mushrooms have released a fair amount of liquid, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the lid, turn up the heat, and cook, undisturbed, until the mushrooms just begin to stick to the skillet, 3 to 5 more minutes. Return the chicken to the pan and stir in the red wine and rosemary; turn the heat to low.

3. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving about 1 cup of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta in the skillet, adding cooking water as necessary to keep everything moist. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve, sprinkled with the parsley and Parmesan if you like.

Mushrooms, Chicken Livers, and Pasta with Red Wine. Substitute 4 whole chicken livers for the skinless chicken. You’ll want to cook the livers until brown and crisp on both sides but still pink on the inside, only 3 to 4 minutes. Cut them into bite-size pieces once you’ve seared them and return them to the pan just at the very end.

One-Pot Pasta with Zucchini and Chicken

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour

Cut pasta, like ziti or penne, is an ideal ingredient in braised dishes: It releases starch, which thickens the sauce, and, of course, the noodles themselves provide a satisfying chew. The trick lies only in the timing, but don’t drive yourself nuts; as long as you add the ingredients in stages, you’ll maintain a variety of textures ranging from soft to crisp-tender.

2 tablespoons olive oil

8 ounces boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into chunks

Salt and black pepper

2 medium red onions, halved and sliced

1 tablespoon minced garlic

4 zucchini, sliced at least ½ inch thick

½ cup white wine

1 cup stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water, plus more as needed

8 ounces any cut pasta, preferably whole wheat

¼ cup chopped fresh dill, or 1 teaspoon dried

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1. Put the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, sprinkle the chicken with salt and pepper and add it to the pan, skin side down. Cook, turning the pieces as necessary, until the chicken is browned on both sides, about 10 minutes. Remove the chicken from the pan.

2. Turn the heat down to medium. Add the onions and garlic, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add all but 1 cup of the zucchini and stir to coat with the oil. Add the wine, stock, pasta, and reserved chicken.

3. Bring to a boil, scraping up any bits that might be stuck to the bottom of the pan. Reduce the heat so the mixture bubbles enthusiastically and cook, stirring frequently and adding more liquid as needed to keep the mixture saucy, until the pasta just begins to get tender, no more than 10 minutes. Stir in the remaining zucchini and cook until it softens a little and the pasta is ready but not mushy, another 3 minutes. Stir in the dill, and Parmesan if you’re using it. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve.

Pasta with Corn, Chicken, and Salsa Cruda

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

With pan-roasted corn, fresh tomatoes, and mild green chiles, this pasta is a natural for the summer, especially if you grill everything (see the variation). To save the step of roasting and peeling the skin from the chiles, I cut them into small pieces before cooking; it works.

Salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 medium ears fresh corn, shucked (about 2 cups kernals; frozen are fine)

2 medium poblano chiles, chopped as finely as you can manage

Black pepper

8 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast

2 large ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped

1 small white onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Juice of 1 lime

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

8 ounces any cut pasta, preferably whole wheat

¼ cup crumbled queso fresco, optional

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large, deep skillet over high heat. When it’s hot, add the corn and poblanos; let sit for a moment. As the vegetables brown, shake the pan to keep them cooking evenly without burning. After about 5 minutes, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then remove from the pan with a slotted spoon.

2. Put the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the same pan, still over high heat. Add the chicken and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook about 3 minutes per side, until browned on the outside or no longer pink inside, then remove.

3. In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes, onion, garlic, lime juice, cilantro, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Taste, adjust the seasoning if necessary, and let it sit while you cook the pasta.

4. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes). While it’s cooking, cut the chicken into bits. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking liquid, and toss it with the salsa, corn mixture, chicken, and queso fresco if you’re using it, adding enough reserved liquid to keep things moist. Taste and adjust the seasoning and toss again. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Pasta with Grilled Corn and Chicken, with Salsa Cruda. Prepare a grill to medium-high heat and put the rack about 4 inches from the fire. Leave the corn on the cobs and the chiles whole. Brush the vegetables and chicken with the oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill everything, turning frequently, until the corn is browned in spots, the chicken is just cooked through, and the chiles are blackened and blistered. The corn will take about 5 minutes, the chicken about 8, and the chiles up to 10. Remove as needed. Put the chiles in a brown paper bag or covered bowl to steam. When cool enough to handle, cut the kernels from the corn cobs; peel the chiles and cut them—and the chicken—into strips. (You can prepare all these ingredients to this point up to several hours ahead.) Now proceed with the recipe from Step 3.

Pasta with Fennel and Chicken, Risotto Style

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 45 minutes

Though cooking pasta like risotto is traditional (there are ancient recipes for cooking pasta in wine), it’s become trendy. (It even has a scientific-sounding name: “absorption pasta.”) Still, it’s efficient (especially as you don’t dirty a colander) and—if you start with good-tasting liquid—really good. You can use any kind of noodle you like—orzo will even look a little like rice—but keep in mind that longer noodles require more attention than shorter ones, since they’re more likely to get stuck together. A good compromise is to use spaghetti or other long pasta broken into smaller pieces.

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed

8 ounces boneless, skinless chicken thighs, roughly chopped

2 large or 4 small bulbs fennel (about 2 pounds), cored and chopped

1 red onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat (see the headnote)

Salt and black pepper

½ cup dry white wine or water

3 to 4 cups chicken or vegetable stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

1. Put the 2 tablespoons oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the chicken and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned on all sides, about 5 minutes; remove.

2. Add a little more oil to the skillet and reduce the heat to medium. Add the fennel, onion, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fennel softens, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is glossy and coated with oil, 2 to 3 minutes. Add a little salt and pepper, then the wine. Stir and let the liquid bubble away.

3. Add the stock ½ cup at a time, stirring after each addition and every minute or so. When the liquid is just about evaporated, add more. The mixture should be neither soupy nor dry. Keep the heat medium to medium-high and stir frequently.

4. Begin tasting the pasta 10 minutes after you add it. You want it to be tender but with a tiny bit of crunch; it could take as long as 20 minutes to reach this stage. When it does, stir in the chicken, parsley, and another drizzle of oil if you like. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve.

Black Bean Chili Mac

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes with cooked or canned beans

Chili and pasta is a Cincinnati specialty, but it’s hardly an acquired taste, especially prepared this way: with pork, black beans, tomatoes, and loads of spice.

Salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

8 ounces pork shoulder, sliced into thin strips

Black pepper

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 fresh hot chile (like Thai, serrano, or jalapeño), minced

1 chipotle chile (dried is best; canned is okay; use a little of its adobo if you like), minced

1 tablespoon cumin

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried

6 tomatoes, chopped (canned are fine; drain their juice)

8 ounces elbows, shells, or any cut pasta, preferably whole wheat

2 cups cooked or canned black beans, drained

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Lime wedges

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, sprinkle the pork with salt and pepper and add it to the pan. Cook, stirring once or twice (no more), until the pork is nicely browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the onion, garlic, chiles, cumin, and oregano and cook until the vegetables are soft, a minute or 2.

2. Add the tomatoes, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat so the mixture bubbles gently. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break up and the sauce thickens a bit, about 10 minutes.

3. While the sauce cooks, cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Stir the beans and cilantro into the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Toss in the pasta, adding a little of the cooking water if the sauce seems too thick. Serve with lime wedges.

Pinto Chili Mac with Beef. Substitute thinly sliced beef chuck or sirloin for the pork shoulder, and pinto beans for the black beans.

Spaghetti with Seared Radicchio, Steak, and Balsamic Sauce

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

You want the steak to be rare here, and give it at least 5 minutes to rest before you cut into it to capture all of the meaty juices for the sauce. I recommend spaghetti here—so you can twirl a little bit of everything into one bite—but use whatever shape you like. I think this is even better at room temperature than it is hot, which makes it one great picnic or entertaining dish.

Salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

8 ounces sirloin, skirt, or other beef steak

Black pepper

1 pound radicchio, cut into ribbons

1 large red onion, halved and sliced

1 tablespoon minced garlic

8 ounces spaghetti or other long, thin pasta, preferably whole wheat

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, or to taste

½ cup roughly chopped fresh basil

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the steak, sprinkle it with salt and pepper, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until browned but rare. Remove it from the skillet and cover loosely with a piece of foil or a pot lid.

2. Add the radicchio, onion, and garlic to the skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften, about 5 minutes. Lower the heat and cover.

3. Cook the spaghetti in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain it, reserving about 1 cup of the cooking water. Thinly slice the steak, being careful to capture all the drippings.

4. Add the vinegar to the skillet, stir, and let it bubble until it thickens slightly but doesn’t evaporate, just a few seconds. Toss in the pasta, steak with its juices, basil, and a generous sprinkling of black pepper; add just enough of the pasta water to keep the mixture moist. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Meaty Tomato Sauce, With or Without Pasta

Makes: 4 servings (about 1 quart)

Time: At least 2 hours, largely unattended

This is red gravy, the ragu Italian-Americans (and others) have been serving for generations. Using bone-in chuck lets you extract maximum meaty flavor from a surprisingly small amount of meat. (Check out the variations for other meats.)

Like the recipe for All-Purpose Tomato Sauce on page 194, the pasta is optional here, since this sauce is just as good on top of rice, pizza dough, or grilled vegetables. Same drill: This recipe makes enough sauce to serve four with maybe a little extra; for leftovers, make more and refrigerate or freeze it for another meal.

¼ cup olive oil

1 pound bone-in beef chuck

1 large onion or 2 medium onions, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic, or to taste

Salt and black pepper

¼ cup tomato paste

½ cup dry red wine, stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140), or water

About 4 pounds canned whole tomatoes (two 28- or 35-ounce cans), chopped, liquid reserved

½ cup chopped fresh parsley or basil, optional

8 ounces pasta, preferably whole wheat, optional

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the chuck and brown it well, rotating and turning as necessary, about 10 minutes. Remove the meat from the pot and set it aside.

2. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the onion and garlic to the pot, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and continue to cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the wine and stir to scrape up any brown bits from the bottom of the pot for about a minute.

3. Return the meat to the pot and add the tomatoes with about 1 cup of their liquid. Cover, bring to a boil, and lower the heat so the sauce bubbles slowly. Cook for 1½ to 2 hours, stirring occasionally to break up large pieces of tomato and adding tomato liquid as necessary to prevent the sauce from becoming too dry.

4. When the chuck is falling-from-the-bone tender, remove it from the pot. When cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the bone, chop or shred it, and return it to the pot along with the herb if you’re using it. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and keep warm. (Or let cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to several days or freeze for months; reheat gently before serving.)

5. If you’re serving the sauce with pasta, bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Cook the pasta until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta with at least half of the sauce, adding enough reserved cooking liquid to keep it moist. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve. (Save the leftover sauce for another use.)

Tomato-Sausage Sauce, With or Without Pasta. Substitute 8 ounces good Italian sausage, crumbled, for the chuck. Reduce the cooking time in Step 3 to 30 to 60 minutes. You never need to remove the sausage from the pot.

Tomato-Chicken Sauce, With or Without Pasta. Use 4 medium chicken thighs in place of the beef. Proceed with the recipe, reducing the cooking time to about 1 hour. Remove the chicken from the pot and remove the meat from the bones as you would the beef.

Tomato-Duck Sauce, With or Without Pasta. Use 2 duck legs (with thighs) instead of the beef. Give them the same treatment as the chicken thighs in the above variation; the simmering time should be closer to 1½ hours.

Tomato-Rib Sauce, With or Without Pasta. Use 4 pork spareribs in place of the beef.

Pasta with Roasted Eggplant and Meat Sauce

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour, largely unattended

Roasting this nicely seasoned eggplant-and-lamb sauce from start to finish gives it an incredibly rich flavor while requiring very little attention. The result is something like an eggplant Bolognese, perfect with a little pasta but also good spooned over a split baked potato or even a roll, like a sloppy joe.

1½ pounds eggplant, cut into small cubes

8 ounces ground beef or lamb

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon roughly chopped garlic

¼ cup olive oil

Salt and black pepper

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried

3 tablespoons tomato paste

6 ripe Roma (plum) tomatoes, chopped (canned are fine; drain them first)

½ cup dry red wine or water

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish, optional

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Put the eggplant, ground meat, onion, and garlic in a large roasting pan. Drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast, stirring occasionally and breaking up the meat, until everything is nicely browned and almost crisp, about 40 minutes.

2. Add the bay leaf, oregano, and thyme, then add the tomato paste and stir to mix it with the vegetables and meat. Stir in the tomatoes and wine and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Continue roasting until the mixture is thickened, 10 to 15 minutes more. (The sauce can be made ahead to this point. Cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to a few days or freeze for up to a few months. Gently reheat it before proceeding.)

3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. When the sauce is ready, cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy; drain it, reserving some of the cooking water. Remove the pan from the oven. Discard the bay leaf. Add enough of the cooking water to the sauce to loosen any browned bits from the bottom of the pan and moisten the pasta. Add the pasta and toss. Stir in the parsley and Parmesan if you’re using them. Serve.

Shells with Braised Escarole, White Beans, and Sausage

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 45 minutes with cooked or canned beans

There are several braised pasta dishes in this chapter, but this one features the most classic combination: pasta, escarole, and beans (sausage is a common partner too). Adjust the soupiness by adding more stock once the pasta is done or letting most of the liquid bubble away, but make sure not to let the pan get too dry while the pasta is still cooking, or the shells will get gummy.

If you don’t have escarole, cabbage, kale, chard, beet greens, radicchio, and chicory are all fine substitutes.

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for serving

8 ounces sweet or hot Italian sausage

1 tablespoon minced garlic

8 ounces shell pasta, preferably whole wheat

½ cup dry white wine, optional

About 4 cups chicken, beef, or vegetable stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water

1 pound escarole, roughly chopped

2 cups cooked or canned white beans, drained

Salt and black pepper

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1. Put the oil in a large pot over medium heat. When it’s hot, remove the sausage from its casings and crumble it into the pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausage is nicely browned, crisp, and cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes; remove it from the pot with a slotted spoon.

2. Add the garlic to the same pot over low heat and cook just until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the pasta, and wine if you’re using it or ½ cup of the stock. Stir, raise the heat a bit, and let the liquid bubble away. Begin adding stock, ½ cup or so at a time, stirring after each addition. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles enthusiastically and stir frequently; cook until the pasta is just beginning to soften but is only about half-done, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the escarole and enough of the remaining stock to make the mixture a little soupy, raise the heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring once or twice, until it begins to wilt, 3 to 5 minutes. By now the pasta should be tender but still with a tiny bit of crunch. Add the beans and sausage to the pan along with some salt and pepper and a little more stock if the mixture is sticking. Cook and stir until everything is hot, another minute or 2. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese if you’re using it. Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve with a drizzle of olive oil.

Pasta with Smoky Roasted Sweet Potatoes and Bacon

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour, largely unattended

Here’s a lovely from-the-oven pasta sauce, featuring sweet potatoes and smoked paprika (also known as pimentón), which is available in most specialty food stores and some supermarkets. If you’d rather use prosciutto or smoked ham instead of bacon, just add it to the roasting pan after the sweet potatoes are cooked about halfway.

3 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

4 bacon slices or 4 ounces pancetta, chopped

3 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and black pepper

2 teaspoons pimentón (smoked paprika)

1 red onion, chopped

8 ounces any cut pasta, preferably whole wheat

¼ cup chopped fresh chives

¼ cup grated Manchego or Parmesan cheese

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Put the sweet potatoes, bacon, and oil in a large roasting pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss. Roast, stirring occasionally, until the sweet potatoes and bacon are crisp, about 30 minutes.

2. Dust the sweet potatoes and bacon with the pimentón. Add the onion to the pan, stir, and roast for another 15 minutes. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it.

3. When the sauce ingredients are almost ready, cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking water. Remove the roasting pan from the oven, stir in about ½ cup of the cooking water, and scrape up any browned bits that are stuck to the bottom. Toss in the pasta, chives, and cheese. Taste and adjust the seasoning and toss again. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Pasta with Cumin-Scented Squash and Lamb

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

A food processor makes quick work of preparing the squash, but an old-fashioned box grater will do the trick too. Either way is faster than dicing it with a knife, and the shredded pieces, which cook into a whole range of creamy-to-crisp-tender textures, are what make this dish special—and fast.

Salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

8 ounces ground lamb or minced leg of lamb

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon cumin seeds, or 2 teaspoons cumin

Black pepper

¼ cup tomato paste

2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and grated (about 4 packed cups)

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the lamb and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in the onion and continue cooking and stirring until it softens a bit, just a minute or 2. Add the garlic, lower the heat to medium, and cook, stirring once in a while, until everything crisps and darkens, about 10 minutes.

2. Stir in the cumin, pepper, and tomato paste; cook and stir until the paste starts to stick and brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the squash and 2 cups water and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook, stirring infrequently, until the squash is tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, 10 to 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta, parsley, and Parmesan if you’re using it, with the squash mixture, adding a little of the reserved cooking liquid as needed to moisten it. Taste and adjust the seasoning and toss again. Serve.

Noodles with Roots and Ribs

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 2 hours, largely unattended

Braising root vegetables with deliciously meaty (and fatty) ribs takes a while, but it’s well worth it. The idea is for most of the vegetables to break down and thicken the sauce, all the while absorbing flavor from the ribs. If you can’t find what are known as “country-style” ribs, which are ultrameaty (and not really ribs at all, but chops), use 4 to 6 spareribs.

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 country-style pork ribs (see the headnote)

Salt and black pepper

2 pounds root vegetables (celery root, rutabaga, parsnip, or sweet potato, or a combination), peeled and cut into large chunks

2½ cups stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water

½ cup red wine, or more stock or water

8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage, or 1 teaspoon dried

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the ribs and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, turning as necessary, until the ribs are deeply browned on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes total. Remove the ribs from the pan.

2. Add the vegetables and cook, stirring infrequently, until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the stock and wine if you are using it. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring to scrape up any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Reduce the heat so that the liquid bubbles gently and return the ribs to the pan. Cover and cook, stirring once or twice, until the meat is tender and the vegetables break down and thicken the liquid. (Start checking after about an hour but plan on their being done in about 1½ hours.)

3. When the meat is ready, remove it from the bones, chop or shred it, and return it to the pot. If the mixture looks too thick, add a little stock or water; if too thin, turn the heat up a bit, remove the cover, and let the sauce reduce, breaking up any remaining chunks of vegetables with a spoon. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Keep warm. (You can make the sauce ahead to this point. Cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to a few days or freeze for up to several months; gently reheat the sauce before proceeding.)

4. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Cook the pasta until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta with the vegetables and meat, adding a little cooking liquid if it seems too thick. Stir in the sage and parsley, top with Parmesan if you like, and serve.

Noodles with Spicy Cabbage and Pork

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 40 minutes

Chile oil—the real kind that has dried chiles steeping in the bottom of the jar—is one of the easiest and most elegant ways of adding heat to a recipe. But you can also use chile paste, red chile flakes, whole dried chiles, minced fresh chiles, or even hot sauce, each to a slightly different effect. Unlike in a stir-fry, the cabbage here is well cooked, resulting in a pleasantly soft texture and an unexpectedly sweet flavor.

Salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

8 ounces ground pork or thinly sliced pork shoulder

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 head Napa cabbage (1½ to 2 pounds), chopped

8 ounces rice, buckwheat (soba), or wheat noodles, preferably whole grain

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 teaspoons chile oil, or to taste (see the headnote)

Black pepper

¾ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Lime wedges

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat and, a minute later, add the pork, sprinkle with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally (and if you’re using ground pork, breaking up the meat as you cook), until the pork browns and is no longer pink, 3 to 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove the pork and lower the heat to medium-low.

2. Add the garlic and ginger to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic softens, just 1 minute. Add the cabbage along with ½ cup water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is softened and the water evaporates, about 15 minutes. Lower the heat and continue to cook, stirring once in a while, until the cabbage begins to brown, about 5 minutes more.

3. When the cabbage is almost ready, cook the noodles in the boiling water until tender but not mushy. Check them frequently: The time will vary from a minute or 2 for thin rice noodles, to 5 minutes for soba, or up to 12 minutes for wide brown rice noodles. When the noodles are done, drain them, reserving some of the cooking water. Toss the noodles in the skillet along with the pork, soy sauce, sesame oil, chile oil, and some black pepper; add some of the cooking water if the mixture seems dry. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve with lime wedges.

Spicy Cabbage and Tofu or Tempeh with Noodles. Substitute 8 ounces thinly sliced extra-firm tofu or crumbled tempeh for the pork.

Noodles with Broccoli, Beef, and Black Tea Sauce

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Black tea adds a deep, smoky flavor to this classic beef and broccoli stir-fry. If you want it even smokier (and meatless), use cubes of smoked tofu instead of the beef.

1 tablespoon black tea leaves (or use a high-quality tea bag)

1 cup boiling water

Salt

1 pound broccoli, trimmed

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

8 ounces sirloin, skirt, or other beef steak, sliced as thinly as possible

Black pepper

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 fresh hot chile (like Thai or serrano), minced

1 bunch scallions, white and green parts separated, all chopped

1 tablespoon soy sauce, plus more for serving, optional

8 ounces rice, buckwheat (soba), or wheat noodles, preferably whole grain

1. Steep the tea leaves in the boiling water for at least 5 minutes, then strain the tea. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Core the broccoli and break it into florets; slice the stems into coins about ¼ inch thick.

2. Put 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large, deep skillet over high heat. When it’s hot, add the beef to the pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and let it sear for a minute or 2; stir and let it cook for another minute. It should be browned outside but still pink inside. Remove from the pan.

3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan along with the broccoli, garlic, ginger, chile, and scallion whites; cook, stirring, until the broccoli is bright green, glossy, and beginning to brown in spots, about 5 minutes. Return the beef to the pan, stir in the tea and soy sauce, and cook until some of the tea evaporates and the sauce thickens a bit, a minute or 2 longer.

4. Meanwhile, cook the noodles in the boiling water until they’re tender but not mushy. Check them frequently: The time will vary from a minute or 2 for thin rice noodles, to 5 minutes for soba, or up to 12 minutes for wide brown rice noodles. When the noodles are done, drain them, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Toss the noodles with the broccoli and beef, adding cooking liquid as necessary to keep everything moist. Taste and adjust the seasoning, garnish with the scallion greens, and serve, passing more soy sauce at the table if you like.

Whole Grain Drop Dumplings

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

These are a bit like large spaetzle, the free-form cross between dumplings and noodles, but with a lot more texture and, for that matter, flavor. Serve them topped with warmed All-Purpose Tomato Sauce (page 194) or lightly brown them in a mixture of olive oil and butter. Or, while they’re still hot, just toss with butter or olive oil. And if you want them for dessert, lightly brown them and drizzle with maple syrup.

Salt

1 cup whole wheat flour, or more as needed

1 cup cornmeal (fine grind if possible), plus more as needed

½ cup rolled oats

¼ teaspoon baking soda

Black pepper

¼ cup milk, or more as needed

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Combine the flour, cornmeal, oats, baking soda, 1 teaspoon salt, and a sprinkling of black pepper. When the water comes to a boil, carefully transfer about 1 cup boiling water from the pot to the bowl with the dry ingredients. Add the milk and stir until all of the ingredients are incorporated and a sticky, thick batter has formed; it should be somewhere between biscuit dough and pancake batter. If the batter is too wet, add some more cornmeal or flour; if it is too stiff, add some more water or milk.

2. Using a teaspoon, drop a bit of the batter into the boiling water. Work in batches so you don’t crowd the pot. Let the dumplings cook for a minute or so after they float to the surface. Remove them with a slotted spoon and dress as you’d like (see the headnote).

Herbed Whole Grain Drop Dumplings. Add ½ cup chopped fresh parsley, basil, mint, or cilantro, or 2 teaspoons chopped rosemary, sage, thyme, or lavender to the dry ingredients in Step 1 before adding the water.

Whole Wheat Carrot Gnocchi

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 1¾ hours, partially unattended

Making gnocchi may be impressive, but it isn’t difficult. And these, with their gorgeous color, hearty texture, and nutty flavor, are especially fun. As with all gnocchi, add just enough flour to hold them together during cooking. Be gentle with the dough as well, as too much kneading will make them tough.

1 pound carrots, cut into large chunks

Salt

½ cup whole wheat flour

½ cup all-purpose flour, plus more for shaping

Black pepper

Pinch of nutmeg

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Put the carrots in a pot with water to cover and a pinch of salt. Bring the water to a gentle bubble and cook until the carrots are quite tender, about 45 minutes. Drain well. Return the carrots to the dry pan, cover, and dry them over the lowest possible heat, for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the flours in a small bowl. Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil (for testing the dough) and salt it.

2. Use a fork, potato masher, ricer, or food mill to purée the carrots until smooth; sprinkle with salt and pepper and the nutmeg and stir. Let the mixture cool for a few minutes. Sprinkle the carrots with ¾ cup of the flour mixture and stir gently until it is just incorporated. Pinch off a piece of the dough and boil it to make sure it will hold its shape. If it does not, knead in a bit more flour and try again; repeat as necessary. (The idea is to make the dough with as little additional flour and kneading as possible.)

3. When enough flour has been added, sprinkle a little all-purpose flour on a clean, smooth work surface and roll a piece of the dough into a rope about ½ inch thick, then cut the rope into 1-inch lengths. If you like, score each piece lightly with the tines of a fork or press down on the center a bit to indent it. As each gnoccho is ready, put it on a baking sheet lined with parchment or wax paper; do not allow the gnocchi to touch one another. (If you don’t have enough room, use more paper to start another layer on top of the first.)

4. Cover everything with a towel and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes or up to 2 hours. (The recipe can be made ahead to this point and frozen for up to 3 months. Put the whole baking sheet in the freezer until the gnocchi are frozen solid. Transfer them to an airtight container or bag. Do not thaw before cooking; proceed to Step 5.)

5. When you’re ready to cook the gnocchi, bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. When it’s boiling, put the oil and butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat. A few at a time, add the gnocchi to the boiling water and gently stir; adjust the heat so the mixture doesn’t boil too vigorously. A minute after they rise to the surface, the gnocchi are done; remove them with a slotted spoon and transfer to the skillet. When all are done, sprinkle them with the parsley, more salt and pepper, and some gnocchi cooking water if the mixture seems too dry. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve, passing the cheese at the table.

Carrot Gnocchi with Sage Butter. Omit the parsley. Add several fresh sage leaves to the skillet at the beginning of Step 5 and cook until they sizzle before you begin adding the gnocchi.

Spinach-and-Noodle “Meatballs”

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

There is something undeniably fun about making a spaghetti meatball. This is one of those rare occasions where you actually want to cook the noodles until they’re mushy, because you use them (and their starch) to hold these vegetable-packed balls together. Use any green you like—kale, chard, collards, broccoli rabe, dandelion greens, bok choy, and gai lan (Chinese broccoli) are all good—as is a squeeze of sriracha sauce just before you pop them into your mouth.

Salt

2 pounds spinach

8 ounces rice, buckwheat (soba), or wheat noodles, preferably whole grain, broken into 1-inch pieces

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 fresh hot chile (like jalapeño, serrano, or Thai), minced

½ cup chopped scallions

2 tablespoons soy sauce, plus more for serving

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 eggs, lightly beaten

¼ cup all-purpose flour, or more as needed

Black pepper

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more as needed

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Add the spinach and cook for just about a minute until it wilts. Scoop out the spinach with a slotted spoon, rinse it with cold water, and squeeze dry. Add the noodles to the boiling water and cook until they’re extremely tender and beginning to break apart (which might take 15 minutes), then drain.

2. Chop the spinach and put it in a bowl along with the noodles, garlic, ginger, chile, scallions, the 2 tablespoons soy sauce, the sesame oil, eggs, flour, and a sprinkling of pepper. Mash the mixture with a fork or your hands until the ingredients come together. If the mixture is too loose to form into balls, add another sprinkling of flour.

3. Put the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, form a spoonful of the spinach mixture into a ball about the size of a Ping-Pong ball and add it to the pan. Continue, working in batches so they aren’t too crowded and adding more oil to the pan as needed. Cook, turning as necessary, until the outsides are crisp and brown, about 5 minutes total. Transfer the balls to towels to drain and repeat with the remaining spinach mixture. Serve hot or at room temperature, passing soy sauce at the table.