One of the simplest ways to get a meal on the table is to make a pot of soup, and this collection of substantial recipes will help you do just that. The great thing about most soups is that you can make them ahead of time and reheat later, over the course of days if you like. At any time, add bread or a salad and you’ve got a meal.

Stock is an important component of good-tasting soup, but it’s not essential; plain water is almost always an option. When you have fresh vegetables, grains, beans, and seasonings—with or without meat, poultry, or seafood—you will get flavorful soup (far better than anything from a box or can) even if water is your only liquid. (Remember that stock is simply water with flavors added.)

Will your soup be more luxurious and deeply flavored if you use homemade stock? You bet. That’s why I’ve included stock recipes at the end of the chapter for anyone who wants to make them. (I would say at this point I make stock twice a year. While I’m never sorry I’ve made it, it’s gone before I know it, and then I live without it again.)

How about stock from a can or carton? I never use it anymore. Though there are some better-quality canned stocks, most add unwanted flavors and mask the true taste of the other ingredients. (And the added expense is undeniable and often significant.)

In general, when you’re making soup, there’s no need to fuss over how your vegetables are cut or worry about timing their additions perfectly. Just let the mixture bubble gently for a bit to thicken and evolve. (Usually this can happen while you’re doing something else.) Clean-Out-the-Fridge Vegetable Soup and the tomato-based soups that follow are perfect examples, which is why they kick off this chapter. The ingredients do the work of developing both texture and taste.

A word about portions: The recipes are all designed to serve four people 1½ cups of substantial soup. If soup is all you’re eating, you might want more—up to 8 cups—so double the recipe and plan to have leftovers. For an appetizer or first course, 1 cup is probably enough for a serving, so you might consider that each recipe yields six servings or so.

Clean-Out-the-Fridge Vegetable Soup

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 to 60 minutes

A blueprint for building soup out of just about any vegetable you have handy. Start by cooking some aromatics in olive oil, add tomatoes for body and balance, and finish with various flavor boosters—you can’t go wrong. A little Parmesan or meat (see the variation) are nice options, and depending on which vegetables you’re using, a couple tablespoons of heavy cream might be nice. If you have some stock, by all means use it, but water works just fine.

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, 3 scallions, or 1 leek (trimmed and well rinsed), chopped

2 carrots, 2 parsnips, or 2 turnips, roughly chopped

2 zucchini, 2 yellow squash, or 2 small bell peppers, roughly chopped

1 cup corn kernels (frozen are fine), fresh or frozen beans (like lima, fava, or edamame), or fresh or frozen peas

8 ounces spinach, cabbage, broccoli, or other leafy green or cruciferous vegetable, chopped

Salt and black pepper

1 cup cored, chopped tomatoes (canned are fine; include their juice)

½ cup chopped fresh basil, plus more for garnish

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, for serving, optional

1. Put 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and carrots. Cook, stirring, until the onion softens and the vegetables begin to color, 10 minutes or so.

2. Add the zucchini, corn, and spinach; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, for a minute or 2, then add the tomatoes and 6 cups water. Bring to a boil, then adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently. Cook, stirring every now and then, until the vegetables are soft and the tomatoes have broken up, about 15 minutes. (The soup can be made up to this point a day or 2 ahead; gently reheat before proceeding.)

3. Add the ½ cup basil and adjust the heat once again so that the mixture bubbles gently. Cook until all the vegetables are very tender, 5 to 15 minutes longer. Taste and adjust the seasoning and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Serve, passing basil and cheese at the table if you like.

Clean-Out-the-Fridge Vegetable Soup with Ground Beef or Sausage. Before adding the onion and carrots, brown 8 ounces crumbled ground beef or sausage in the olive oil. Remove the meat and proceed with the recipe. Stir the beef or sausage back into the soup along with the basil in Step 3.

Tomato-Bulgur Soup

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

There’s no faster, surer way to enrich soup than by stirring in a handful of grains; they absorb the surrounding flavors and release starch to make the broth thick and creamy. Bulgur is ideal because it cooks in a flash, but you can use whatever you’ve got, including already cooked grains (leftovers are perfect) or ground grains like cornmeal. Depending on which you choose, the cooking time may decrease or increase from a little to (rarely) a lot, and you might need to add more liquid.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, halved and sliced

1 large celery stalk, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Salt and black pepper

½ cup white wine

3 cups chopped tomatoes (canned are fine; include their juice)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried

5 to 6 cups vegetable stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 138) or water, or more as needed

¾ cup bulgur

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley, for garnish, optional

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish, optional

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the onion, celery, and garlic. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until the onion begins to soften and turn golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the white wine and cook, stirring to loosen the bits of vegetable that have stuck to the bottom of the pan, for about 1 minute.

2. Add the tomatoes and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break up, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the stock and bulgur, bring to a boil, and reduce the heat so the mixture gently bubbles. Cover and cook, stirring once or twice, until the bulgur is tender, about 10 minutes. If the mixture is too thick, add a little more stock or water. (You can make the soup up to this point and refrigerate for several days or freeze for months. Gently reheat before proceeding.) Taste and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with the parsley and Parmesan if you’re using them, and serve.

Tuscan Tomato-Farro Soup with Seafood. Use farro instead of bulgur; it will need to cook for 20 to 25 minutes. When the grain is tender, add 8 ounces chopped shelled shrimp, squid, or scallops and cook until the seafood is opaque but still tender, about 2 minutes. Squeeze lemon juice into the pot if you like, garnish with parsley, and serve (omit the Parmesan).

Provençal Soup

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 45 to 60 minutes, largely unattended

Here are all the flavors of ratatouille, the sturdy, classic vegetable stew of southern France. To make an even more substantial soup, check out the variations.

¼ cup olive oil, plus a little more for garnish

1 large onion, chopped

4 to 6 garlic cloves, smashed or chopped

Salt and black pepper

1 medium or 2 small eggplants, cut into small cubes

1 large or 3 small zucchini, chopped

2 red bell peppers, chopped

3 cups chopped tomatoes (canned are fine; include their juice)

3 cups chicken or vegetable stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water, or more as needed

½ cup black olives, pitted and chopped

½ cup chopped fresh basil, plus more for garnish

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish, optional

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and garlic, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until the onion begins to soften and turn golden, 3 to 5 minutes.

2. Add the eggplant, zucchini, bell peppers, tomatoes, and stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have broken up and the eggplant and zucchini are super tender, about 45 minutes. (The soup can be made up to this point and refrigerated for several days or frozen for months; gently reheat before proceeding.) Stir in the olives and basil in the last 5 minutes of cooking. Serve garnished with a drizzle of olive oil, more basil, and the Parmesan if you like.

Provençal Soup with Anchovies. Add 4 or 5 oil-packed anchovies to the pan along with the onion and garlic in Step 1 and mash them roughly with a spoon before adding the other vegetables.

Provençal Soup with Lamb. Sear 8 ounces chopped lamb leg or shoulder (or use lamb sausage) in the oil before adding the onion and garlic in Step 1.

Tomato and Bread Soup with Fennel and Fish

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 40 minutes

When you cross two classic Mediterranean soups—bouillabaisse and pappa al pomodoro, made from little more than bread and tomatoes—you get a flavorful blend that’s simple enough for a weeknight but satisfying enough for dinner anytime, especially if you use a good whole grain bread.

¼ cup olive oil, plus more for garnish

Two 4-ounce fillets any firm white fish

1 large onion, halved and sliced

2 fennel bulbs, cored and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon minced garlic, or to taste

Salt and black pepper

3 cups chopped tomatoes (canned are fine; drain and reserve their juice)

1 to 2 cups vegetable stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 138), water, or the liquid from the tomatoes if you’re using canned (or a combination)

½ loaf (or more) day-old rustic bread, preferably whole wheat, cut into cubes

¼ cup torn fresh basil, optional

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. A minute later, add the fish fillets, raise the heat to high, and cook for 1 to 3 minutes on each side, until the fillets are opaque and seared on the outside but still nearly raw on the inside. Remove the fish from the pot and reduce the heat to medium.

2. Add the onion, fennel, and garlic to the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until everything is fragrant and the onion and fennel soften and turn golden, 5 to 10 minutes.

3. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pieces break up, 10 to 15 minutes. Cut the fish into bite-size pieces and add it along with the stock and bread to the tomato mixture. Bring to a gentle boil, bubble for another minute, and take the pot off the heat. Cover and let it sit until the bread is saturated with the soup, about 10 minutes.

4. Stir in the basil if you’re using it, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Divide the soup among bowls, top with a drizzle of oil and more black pepper, and serve.

Watermelon and Tomato Gazpacho with Feta

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 20 minutes, plus time to chill (optional)

The combination of cool watermelon and tomatoes with feta is as good as it gets in the summer, and just about as easy. One simple variation: use peaches instead of the watermelon or the tomatoes—it’s great either way.

1 garlic clove

1 small watermelon, or a section of a larger one, about 3 pounds, flesh removed from the rind, seeded, and cut into large chunks

2 ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into wedges

2 tablespoons lemon juice, or to taste

Salt and black pepper

4 ounces crumbled feta cheese

¼ cup olive oil

½ cup chopped fresh basil or mint, for garnish

1. Put the garlic in a food processor and pulse a few times to chop it. Add the watermelon, tomatoes, and lemon juice, with a sprinkling of salt and pepper. You have two choices here: chunky or smooth. It all depends on whether you turn the machine on and leave it on, or just pulse a few times. Add a few ice cubes, one at a time, just enough to keep the machine working, and blend or pulse until smooth or chunky. Put the gazpacho in the fridge to chill a bit if you like, up to several hours.

2. Just before serving, taste the gazpacho and add more salt, pepper, or lemon juice as needed (remember you’ll be adding feta, which is usually salty). Pour the gazpacho into 4 bowls, top with the feta, drizzle with a few drops of olive oil, garnish with the herb, and serve.

Curried Tomato Soup with Hard-Boiled Eggs

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 40 minutes

This hearty vegetable soup is based on makhani, a spicy Indian tomato sauce that’s hot, slightly sweet, and frequently used for braising hard-boiled eggs. The difference here is that I add lots of chopped vegetables and some coconut milk, turning the sauce into a thick soup with a sublimely silky texture. Don’t let the long ingredient list put you off; the soup comes together rather quickly.

¼ cup vegetable oil

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 tablespoon minced fresh hot chile (like jalapeño or Thai)

2 tablespoons curry powder

1 teaspoon cumin

Pinch of sugar

2 all-purpose potatoes, peeled and chopped

1 carrot, chopped

Salt and black pepper

3 cups vegetable stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 138) or water

1 cup coconut milk

3 cups chopped tomatoes (canned are fine; include their juice)

1 small cauliflower, cored and roughly chopped

4 hard-boiled eggs, roughly chopped, for garnish

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the onion, garlic, ginger, and chile. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the curry powder, cumin, and sugar. Cook and stir until the spices become fragrant, a minute or 2 more.

2. Add the potatoes and carrot and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, for a minute or 2, then add the vegetable stock, coconut milk, and tomatoes with their liquid. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat so the mixture bubbles gently. Cook, stirring once in a while, until the potatoes and carrots are fairly soft, 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Add the cauliflower and adjust the heat so that the mixture bubbles gently. Cook until all the vegetables are very tender, about 15 minutes more. (The soup can be made up to this point in advance and refrigerated for several days or frozen for months; gently reheat before proceeding.) Serve garnished with the hard-boiled eggs and cilantro.

Curried Tomato Soup with Poached Eggs. Instead of garnishing each bowl with chopped hard-boiled eggs, during the last 5 minutes of cooking in Step 3, carefully crack 4 eggs into the gently bubbling soup and cover the pot. Start checking the eggs after about 3 minutes; cook until the whites are firmed up a bit or longer if you prefer. To serve, spoon some soup and an egg in each bowl and garnish with cilantro.

Vegetable-Lentil Soup with Fragrant Broth

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 1½ hours, largely unattended

Onion and garlic, cooked until they nearly melt together, give this soup a base with incredible aroma and a touch of sweetness. Common brown lentils are best here, but you can also use red lentils or yellow or green split peas, all of which cook faster. This soup is on the brothy side, so if you like it thicker, add another ¼ cup lentils.

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Salt and black pepper

2 cups chopped tomatoes (canned are fine; include their juice)

3 carrots, chopped

3 celery stalks, chopped

½ cup dried lentils, rinsed and picked over

6 cups vegetable stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 138) or water

Several sprigs fresh thyme, or several pinches dried

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute, sprinkling with salt and pepper. Turn the heat down to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are golden and beginning to melt together, about 20 minutes.

2. Turn the heat back up to medium-high and stir in the tomatoes, carrots, celery, and lentils. Add the stock and thyme, then bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to medium-low so that the soup bubbles gently.

3. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the lentils and vegetables are tender, 20 to 30 minutes; add water as necessary to keep the mixture brothy. Fish out the thyme sprigs, then taste and adjust the seasoning. (The soup can be made up to this point in advance and refrigerated for several days or frozen for months; gently reheat before proceeding.) Serve each bowl of soup with a drizzle of olive oil on top.

Roasted Asparagus and White Bean Soup with Parmesan

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 45 minutes with cooked or canned beans

The combination of tender white beans and crisp roasted asparagus gives this soup incredible texture and big-time flavor. It’s a nice first course for entertaining, since you can prepare both components up to a day ahead of time and then heat them together just before serving. For extra elegance, purée the beans (see the first variation). If you cooked the beans from scratch, use the cooking water as some or all of the liquid here.

4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for garnish

2 whole leeks, trimmed, well rinsed, and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary, or 1 teaspoon dried

Salt and black pepper

½ cup dry white wine

2 baking potatoes, peeled and chopped

3 cups cooked or canned white beans, drained, liquid reserved

6 cups vegetable or chicken stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140), bean-cooking liquid, or water, plus more as needed

About 1½ pounds asparagus, peeled if thick

One 2-ounce piece Parmesan cheese

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened a bit and beginning to color, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and rosemary and cook for another minute. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, add the white wine, and stir to loosen the bits of vegetable that have stuck to the bottom of the pan.

2. Add the potatoes, about half of the beans, and the stock. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat so that the mixture bubbles steadily. Cover partially and cook, stirring infrequently, until the potatoes are disintegrating, 20 to 30 minutes; add more liquid as necessary so the mixture remains soupy.

3. Meanwhile (or ahead of time), put the asparagus in a shallow roasting pan, drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and sprinkle with salt. Roast, turning the spears once or twice, just until the thick part of the stalks can be pierced with a knife, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven to cool a bit. Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler to shave slices from the piece of cheese.

4. When the soup is ready, mash the potatoes and beans a bit. Chop the asparagus and add it to the pot along with the remaining beans to warm through. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve each bowl with some shaved cheese on top.

Puréed Asparagus and White Bean Soup. After you add the chopped roasted asparagus in Step 4, carefully purée the soup in batches in a food processor or blender or with an immersion blender; or simply mash with a potato masher. If you prefer, purée only the beans and broth and add the chopped asparagus just before serving.

Cabbage and White Bean Soup with Sausage. Before adding the leeks to the oil in Step 1, fry 8 ounces of crumbled Italian sausage in the oil. Substitute 1 small head cabbage for the asparagus. Instead of roasting it, slice the cabbage into ribbons and stir it into the pot along with the potatoes in Step 2.

Two-Pea Soup with Frizzled Ham

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour

Split pea soup with ham is a classic, and a perennial favorite, but that doesn’t mean you can’t update it. This version is considerably fresher than the norm, with the addition of fresh (or frozen) peas, and ham doing double-duty as both seasoning and garnish. (If you happen to have a ham bone, by all means toss that in there, too—but in Step 2 increase the cooking time until the meat falls off the bone.)

3 tablespoons olive oil

8 ounces smoked ham or prosciutto, chopped

2 onions, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

2 tablespoons minced garlic

Salt and black pepper

8 cups vegetable or chicken stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water, plus more as needed

1½ cups dried split peas, washed and picked over

2 cups fresh or frozen peas

¼ cup chopped fresh mint

1. Put 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat; when it’s hot, add the ham and cook until it begins to crisp and release from the pan, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir to turn the pieces, and continue to cook and stir until they are quite crisp, about 10 minutes total. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on towels. Lower the heat to medium.

2. Add the remaining oil to the pot, along with the onions, carrots, and garlic. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften and begin to turn golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the stock and the split peas. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat down so the mixture bubbles gently but steadily. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the split peas are tender, at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour; add more liquid as necessary so the mixture remains soupy.

3. When the split peas are tender and the soup is thickened, stir the green peas and mint into the pot. Cook until they are heated through and turn bright green, no more than 5 minutes; taste and adjust the seasoning and serve with bits of the frizzled ham on top.

Red Bean Soup with Hearty Greens

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1½ hours

Once the pot is bubbling you can walk away from this easily assembled soup, at least for the first 30 minutes or so. The ham hock is optional, but it really does add a lot of flavor, as well as nice bits to chew on—so unless you’re a vegetarian, do include it (or a small piece of smoked ham if you can’t find a hock).

1 cup dried red kidney beans, rinsed, picked over, and soaked if you have time

1 onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 celery stalk, chopped

2 bay leaves

1 smoked ham hock, optional

2 bunches collard greens or kale (about 2 pounds), chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic, optional

Salt and black pepper

1. Put the beans in a large pot or Dutch oven. Add 6 cups water, the onion, carrot, celery, bay leaves, and ham hock if you’re using it. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then turn the heat down so the mixture bubbles gently but steadily. Cook, stirring infrequently, until the beans are very soft and the meat is falling off the bone, anywhere from 45 to 90 minutes; add more liquid as necessary so the mixture remains soupy.

2. Remove the hock from the pot and let it cool slightly. Pull all of the meat off the bone and return it to the pot. (You can make the soup ahead to this point and refrigerate it for a few days or freeze it for weeks; gently reheat before proceeding.) Remove the bay leaves and add the greens, along with the garlic if you’re using it. Cover and cook until the greens are tender, about 10 minutes. Taste, add salt and pepper, and serve.

Pasta and Beans with Escarole. Don’t make this in advance or the pasta will become mushy. When you add the ingredients to the pot in Step 1, add 2 cups chopped tomatoes (or use canned and include some of the liquid). Substitute escarole for the collards or kale. Add ½ cup uncooked small pasta, like shells or elbows, or larger pasta broken into bits, a few minutes after adding the escarole. Cook, checking after 5 minutes or so, until the escarole is tender and the pasta is tender but not mushy. Garnish each bowl with a drizzle of olive oil.

Black Bean and Rice Soup with Carrot Relish

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Time: About 2 hours, largely unattended

A quickly pickled carrot relish adds punch to a classic black bean soup that includes brown rice for texture and flavor. Add some corn tortillas or chips and you’ve got a meal—including the salad—right in the bowl.

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 ounces fresh or smoked chorizo, chopped

1 onion, chopped

1 red bell pepper, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 cup dried black beans, rinsed, picked over, and soaked if you have time

4 carrots, grated

Salt

1 fresh hot chile (like jalapeño or Thai), minced

1 teaspoon cumin

Juice of 2 limes

½ cup brown rice

Black pepper

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the chorizo, onion, bell pepper, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chorizo is nicely browned and the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Add the beans and cover with 2 quarts water. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat down to low so that the mixture bubbles gently. Partially cover and cook, stirring infrequently.

3. Meanwhile, put the carrots in a colander. Add ½ teaspoon salt and toss well. Let them sit in the sink or over a bowl for 30 minutes, tossing occasionally. Rinse off the salt with cold water, squeeze the carrots a bit to dry them, and toss with the chile, cumin, and lime juice. Refrigerate until the soup is ready.

4. When the beans are about half done—softening but not yet tender in the middle, anywhere from 45 to 60 minutes or more—stir the rice into the pot along with a good amount of salt and pepper. Return the soup to a boil, then turn the heat down so that the mixture bubbles gently. Cover and cook until the rice and beans are tender, about 40 minutes; check occasionally to make sure there is enough liquid and add a little more water if necessary. (The soup and relish can be made several hours ahead to this point. Cover and refrigerate and gently reheat the soup before proceeding.) Taste and adjust the seasoning and stir the cilantro into the relish. Serve each bowl of soup with a mound of relish on top.

Creamy Carrot and Chickpea Soup

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 1 to 2 hours, largely unattended

Chickpeas require quite a bit of cooking time (which can be shortened if you soak them first), but since chickpea broth is one of the most delicious liquids you can make, it’s worth it. I like to purée this Spanish-style soup, which makes it so smooth and rich you’ll swear there’s cream in it, but you can skip that step and serve it rustic style.

¼ cup olive oil

2 onions, chopped

1 pound carrots, chopped

2 tablespoons minced garlic

Salt and black pepper

2 teaspoons cumin

2 teaspoons pimentón (smoked paprika)

6 cups vegetable or chicken stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water, plus more as needed

1 cup dried chickpeas, rinsed, picked over, and soaked if you have time

1 cup orange juice

¼ cup chopped almonds, for garnish

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat; a minute later, add the onions, carrots, and garlic and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as needed to keep the vegetables from burning, until the onions and carrots have colored, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the cumin and paprika and cook, stirring, for another 30 seconds or so.

2. Add the stock and chickpeas. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat down so the mixture bubbles gently but steadily. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the chickpeas are very soft, at least 1 hour; add more liquid as necessary so the mixture remains soupy.

3. When the chickpeas are very tender, add the orange juice, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Carefully purée the soup in batches in a blender or in the pot with an immersion blender. (You can make the soup ahead to this point. Refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze for months; gently reheat it before proceeding.) Serve garnished with the almonds and parsley.

Corn and Sweet Potato Chowder with Chipotle

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour

In late summer, when markets are overflowing with fresh, sweet corn, chowder is just the thing to make. I like to add just a half cup of cream for luxury; the cornmeal also helps thicken things up, while adding extra corny flavor. Make this soup as spicy or mild as you like by adjusting how many chipotle chiles you use. One adds just enough smokiness and not too much heat; 3 or 4 will have smoke streaming out of your ears, especially if you include some of the adobo sauce.

Kernels from 6 ears fresh corn, cobs reserved

Salt

¼ cup olive oil

½ cup chopped scallions

2 canned chipotle chiles, minced, with some of their adobo sauce

¼ cup cornmeal (fine or medium grind) or masa harina

Black pepper

½ cup half-and-half or cream

2 large sweet potatoes, peeled if you like and chopped

Chopped fresh parsley or cilantro, for garnish, optional

1. Put the corn cobs and 6 cups water in a pot over medium-high heat and salt it. Cover the pot and bring to a boil. Lower the heat so the water bubbles gently and cook for about 15 minutes. Let the cobs steep until you’re ready to make the soup, then remove them and save the broth.

2. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the scallions and chipotles with some of their adobo sauce (you can always add more later); cook, stirring occasionally, until the scallions are soft, about 1 minute. Turn the heat down to medium-low and stir in the cornmeal and some pepper. Cook, stirring constantly with a whisk or a wooden spoon, until the mixture starts to turn golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the half-and-half and reserved broth and turn the heat up to medium-high. Stir or whisk constantly until the cornmeal is dissolved and the soup starts to thicken, about 2 minutes.

3. Stir in the corn kernels and sweet potatoes and bring to a boil. Cover the pot and lower the heat so that the soup bubbles gently. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the corn and sweet potatoes are tender and the soup has thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with the herb if you like and serve.

Roasted Butternut Chowder with Apples and Bacon

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1½ hours

Roasting the squash, onion, and apples, then simmering them until they break apart, leaves you with a thick, rich soup that you’ll turn to every fall. Try the mixed root vegetable variation, too; it’s just as good. And to sweeten the pot, add a pinch of nutmeg or allspice just before serving.

1 butternut squash (about 1½ pounds), peeled, seeded, and cut into cubes

1 large onion, chopped

2 large apples, peeled, cored, and chopped

4 bacon slices, or one ½-inch-thick strip slab bacon, chopped

2 tablespoons minced garlic

Salt and black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage, or 1 teaspoon dried

½ cup dry white wine or water

6 cups vegetable or chicken stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Spread the squash, onion, apples, bacon, and garlic in a deep roasting pan or on a baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and drizzle with the oil. Roast, stirring every now and then, until the squash, onion, and apples are tender and browned and the bacon is crisp, about 45 minutes.

2. Remove the roasting pan from the oven. Stir in the sage and white wine and scrape up all the browned bits from the bottom. If you’re using a roasting pan that can be used on the stovetop, position the pan over 2 burners and put both on medium heat. Otherwise, transfer the contents of the pan to a large pot or Dutch oven and set it over medium heat.

3. Add the stock and cook until the squash, onion, and apples break apart and thicken and flavor the broth, about 25 minutes. You can help the process along by breaking the mixture up a bit with a spoon. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve.

Roasted Root Vegetable Chowder. Substitute any combination of celery root, turnips, parsnips, and rutabagas for the butternut squash.

Potato Chowder with Dried Tomatoes and Clams

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

I’ve never been a huge fan of Manhattan clam chowder, because the tomatoes water down the clamminess of the broth. But dried tomatoes solve this problem, and the resulting soup is a terrific balance of sweet, tart, and briny flavors. If you like chowder with more tomatoes, simply throw in 3 cups chopped tomatoes (peeled, cored, and seeded—or not) instead of the dried ones in Step 2 and cut the amount of water you add to about 4 cups. You want this chowder to be soupy but not too thin.

Be sure to scrub the clams well. There is no sand in their interiors (do not use “steamers” or there will be), but the shells may be sandy.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large leek, trimmed, well rinsed, and chopped

1 large carrot, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary, or 1 teaspoon dried

Salt and black pepper

½ cup dry white wine

2 large waxy or all-purpose potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped

2 pounds littleneck or other hard-shell clams, well scrubbed, those with broken shells discarded

½ cup chopped dried tomatoes

2 lemons: 1 halved, 1 quartered

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the leek, carrot, garlic, and rosemary. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until the vegetables soften and begin to turn golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring to loosen the bits of vegetable that have stuck to the bottom of the pan, for about a minute.

2. Add the potatoes and 6 cups water. Bring the soup to a gentle boil and cook until the potatoes are almost tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Mash the mixture a few times with a fork or potato masher to thicken it just a bit. Add the clams and dried tomatoes, cover, and reduce the heat to maintain a steady simmer. Cook, undisturbed, for 5 minutes, then lift the lid to check the clams’ progress. If the majority of shells haven’t opened, cover again and give the clams a couple more minutes.

3. When all the clams are open (if any don’t, you can open them with a butter knife), turn off the heat, squeeze the juice from the halved lemon into the pot, and stir. Remove the clams from the shells if you like and return them to the pot. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve with the lemon wedges and garnished with the parsley.

Potato Chowder with Parsnips and Lobster. Omit the rosemary, clams, and tomatoes. To begin, bring 6 cups water to a boil in a large pot. Add a 2-pound lobster, cover, return to a boil, and cook for 10 to 12 minutes. Reserve the lobster cooking water to use in the soup. When the lobster is cool enough to handle, crack open its shell, extract as much meat as you can, and chop it roughly. Proceed with the recipe from Step 1, using 2 or 3 parsnips instead of the carrot and the reserved lobster broth instead of the water. In Step 2, cook the potatoes until completely tender before stirring in the reserved chopped lobster meat. Garnish with a pinch of chopped tarragon if you like.

Cold Cucumber and Avocado Chowder with Shrimp

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes, plus time to chill

You can’t beat this cold summer soup, which is really more like a chopped salad that you eat with a spoon. No matter what you call it—or what seafood you use—the dish is light and fresh, with incredibly bright flavors. If you have time, refrigerate the purée for even longer (up to an hour or so) before serving.

3 cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and chopped

Salt

2 avocados, skin and pits removed, 1 of them chopped

2 large oranges, 1 of them peeled, seeded, and chopped or cut into segments

8 ounces shrimp, peeled, or use squid or scallops (see page 22)

2 tablespoons olive oil

Black pepper

½ cup chopped scallions

Chopped fresh mint or dill, for garnish

Lime wedges

1. Prepare a grill or turn on the broiler; the heat should be medium-high and the rack about 4 inches from the fire. Put the chopped cucumbers in a strainer and sprinkle them with a large pinch of salt. Let them sit for 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, put the whole avocado and the juice of 1 orange in a blender or food processor and purée until smooth, adding a little water if necessary to get the machine started. Refrigerate the purée.

3. Toss the shrimp with the oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill or broil, turning once, for 2 to 3 minutes per side. When cool enough to handle, roughly chop the shrimp and put them in a large bowl. Rinse the cucumbers and add to the shrimp along with the chopped orange, chopped avocado, and scallions. Divide the mixture among serving bowls, drizzle each with the avocado and orange purée, garnish with the herb, and serve with lime wedges.

Tortilla Soup with Lots of Garnishes

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour

Some tortilla soups are based on a complicated broth, but I’ve saved the frills for the toppings. Consider all of the garnishes optional—you can enjoy tortilla soup with just a few chopped scallions and crumbled tortillas on top—but try this at least once brimming precariously with fresh veggies, salsa (for homemade, see page 46), and chips.

2 tablespoons olive oil

8 ounces bone-in chicken thighs or beef chuck steak (or use brisket, shank, even sirloin; cut it into chunks)

Salt and black pepper

2 large onions, halved and sliced

1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 small corn tortillas, roughly chopped

1 dried hot chile (like the hot chipotle or milder ancho)

1 tablespoon fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried

2 limes, 1 of them juiced, the other cut into wedges

1 cup crumbled tortilla chips (for homemade, see page 47), for garnish

2 medium tomatoes, cored and chopped, for garnish

½ cup chopped scallions, for garnish

1 cup shredded cabbage, for garnish

1 cup chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish

2 avocados, skin and pits removed, sliced, for garnish

1 cup thinly sliced radishes, for garnish

¼ cup sour cream, for garnish

2 or more fresh hot chiles (like serrano, Fresno, or jalapeño), chopped, for garnish

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the chicken or beef and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sear the pieces, rotating and turning them as necessary, until they’re well browned, 3 to 5 minutes total. As the pieces are done, remove them from the pot.

2. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat and reduce the heat to medium. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften and begin to turn golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the tortillas, dried chile, and oregano along with more salt and pepper. Cook until the mixture starts to come together like a paste, another 3 to 5 minutes. Return the chicken or beef to the pan, add 6 cups water, and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat so that the liquid bubbles gently but steadily, cover, and cook until the meat is cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. (Meanwhile, prepare the garnishes.)

3. When the soup has thickened and the meat is tender, remove as much meat as you can from the bones and return the meat to the pot along with the lime juice. (You can prepare the soup up to this point a day or 2 in advance; gently reheat before proceeding.) Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve (leaving the chile behind in the pot) with the garnishes in bowls at the table.

Green Gumbo with Potatoes and Zucchini

Makes: 6 to 8 servings

Time: About 1 hour

Gumbo z’herbes (or gumbo vert) is a Creole stew usually served during Lent. I’ve added potato and zucchini and have even been known to toss in some peeled shrimp or sliced andouille sausage as it simmers. Use whatever—and how many—greens you like (traditionally, seven different kinds bring good luck). Dandelions add a particularly wonderful bitterness that complements this gumbo’s distinctive spices. Serve each bowlful with a scoop of brown rice in the center.

¼ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

¹/₃ cup whole wheat flour

1 onion, chopped

1 green bell pepper, chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

2 tablespoons minced garlic

Salt and black pepper

6 cups vegetable or chicken stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water

1 tablespoon fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried

1 tablespoon fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried

2 bay leaves

Cayenne to taste

½ teaspoon pimentón (smoked paprika), or to taste

1 bunch dandelion or other dark leafy greens (about 1 pound), chopped

1 large all-purpose or waxy potato, peeled and chopped

2 zucchini, chopped

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

1. Put the oil and butter in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat. When the butter is melted, add the flour and cook, stirring almost constantly, until the roux darkens to the color of black tea and becomes fragrant, 15 to 20 minutes. As it cooks adjust the heat as necessary to keep the mixture from burning. Add the onion, bell pepper, celery, and garlic and raise the heat to medium. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables have softened, another 10 minutes or so.

2. Stir in the stock, thyme, oregano, bay leaves, cayenne, paprika, dandelion greens, potato, and zucchini. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat so the soup bubbles steadily. Cook until the vegetables are very tender, about 30 minutes. (You can make the soup up to this point a day or 2 ahead; gently reheat before proceeding.) Remove the bay leaves. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve garnished with the parsley.

Miso Soup with Bok Choy, Soba, and Broiled Fish

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 30 minutes

The complex flavor of miso is instantly recognizable but subtle enough to let other ingredients shine through, as it does in this fantastic vegetable soup. (Remember: the darker the miso, the more intense the taste.) You can add sea greens to this recipe too: Soak a handful of arame or hijiki in boiling water for 10 minutes or so to soften; then drain and stir it into the miso along with the bok choy in Step 4.

Salt

8 ounces soba noodles

8 ounces salmon, mackerel, or other fish fillets, preferably wild (see page 22)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon five-spice or chili powder

Black pepper

¹/₃ cup any miso

1 pound bok choy, stems separated and chopped, leaves cut into ribbons

2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted if you like

¼ cup chopped scallions

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Heat the broiler until very hot with the oven rack as close to the heat source as possible. Put a sturdy pan on the rack and let it heat while you cook the noodles.

2. Add the soba to the boiling water and cook until tender but not mushy, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain, reserving 2 cups of the cooking liquid, and rinse the noodles with cold water until cool. Put 1 quart clean water in the pot with the reserved liquid and set it to boil again (without salt).

3. Brush the fish fillets lightly with the vegetable oil and sprinkle with the five-spice powder and a little salt and pepper. Put the fish in the hot pan, skin side (or former skin side if it’s been skinned) down. Broil for 5 to 10 minutes without turning; the fish is done when you can insert a thin-bladed knife without resistance. Remove the pan from the broiler and break the fillets into flakes.

4. When the water in the pot is almost boiling, put the miso in a small bowl, ladle in a cup or so of the heated water, and whisk until smooth. When the water boils, add the bok choy stems to the pot and let them cook for about a minute. Add the ribbons and continue cooking, adjusting the heat so the soup bubbles steadily, until the bok choy get silky, 3 to 5 minutes more. Turn the heat down to low, pour the miso mixture into the pot along with the noodles, and heat just long enough to warm everything, only a minute or 2. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve the soup immediately, garnished with the flaked fish, sesame seeds, and scallions.

Miso Soup with Bok Choy, Soba, and Broiled Tofu. Omit the fish and cut 1 block firm tofu (about 1 pound) into slices. Season and broil them as described in Step 3 and proceed with the recipe.

Chicken Jook with Lots of Vegetables

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 3 hours, largely unattended

This creamy Chinese rice porridge—also known as congee—is a perfect cold-weather soup, and a fine vehicle for delicious add-ins. It takes a while for the grains to break down and thicken the water, but luckily you have options: Jook cooks perfectly in a slow cooker (see the sidebar on page 119), or you can make the soup a couple days ahead and simply reheat it. It also requires virtually no attention as it simmers, so making it on the stove is not all that much work.

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 bone-in chicken thighs

Salt and black pepper

2 tablespoons minced garlic

2 tablespoons minced ginger

1 fresh chile (like jalapeño or Thai), minced

½ cup chopped scallions, plus more for garnish

1 cup short-grain brown rice

2 cups cabbage sliced into very thin ribbons

1 cup snow peas

1 cup bean sprouts

2 tablespoons soy sauce, plus more for serving

1 tablespoon sesame oil

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the chicken thighs and sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Cook until they are very well browned, 5 minutes per side or longer. Remove the chicken from the pot. Add the garlic, ginger, chile, and ½ cup scallions and cook until they are soft, just a minute or 2.

2. Add the rice along with 6 cups water. Bring to a boil, then adjust the heat so it bubbles. Partially cover the pot and cook for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally to make sure the rice is not sticking to the bottom. Add the chicken and cook for another hour or more, again stirring. The jook should have a porridge-like consistency; if it becomes very thick too quickly, turn down the heat and stir in more water. When it is done, the jook should be soupy and creamy but still have a little chew.

3. Remove the meat from the bones if you like and return the meat to the pot. Stir in the cabbage, snow peas, bean sprouts, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, and sesame oil; cook until the vegetables are just tender, another 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve, passing the cilantro, additional scallions, and additional soy sauce at the table.

Pork Jook with Lots of Vegetables. Substitute about 8 ounces pork chops for the chicken thighs.

Mushroom Stew with Beef Chunks

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 1½ hours, largely unattended

It doesn’t take much beef to flavor a stew, especially when you’ve got fresh and dried mushrooms for added depth and oomph. And this stew is low maintenance—just put on a lid and leave it alone. If you’re looking to make this vegetarian, omit the meat and add more mushrooms—the flavor will be amazing.

1 ounce (about 1 cup) dried porcini mushrooms

3 cups boiling water

1 tablespoon olive oil

8 ounces beef chuck or round, trimmed and cut into 1-inch cubes

1 pound fresh shiitake, cremini, portobello, or button mushrooms, stemmed if necessary and roughly chopped

2 leeks, trimmed, well rinsed, and chopped

3 carrots or parsnips, chopped

2 tablespoons minced garlic

Salt and black pepper

½ cup red wine

3 cups mushroom or beef stock (for homemade, see pages 136 or 139)or water

2 sprigs fresh thyme or rosemary, or a pinch of each dried

1 bay leaf

1 small celery root (peeled) or 2 celery stalks, chopped

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley or chives, for garnish

1. Put the dried porcinis in a bowl and cover with the boiling water. Soak until soft, 20 to 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the beef and brown it on one side before stirring it. Cook until deeply browned on all sides, 5 to 10 minutes total, removing pieces as they are done.

3. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan. By now the porcinis should be soft. Lift the mushrooms out of the water, leaving behind the soaking liquid and sediment. Roughly chop the porcinis and reserve the liquid. Add the chopped porcinis to the pan along with the fresh mushrooms, leeks, carrots, and garlic. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the red wine and cook, stirring to loosen the bits of vegetable that have stuck to the bottom of the pan, for about a minute.

4. Add the stock, the reserved porcini soaking liquid (careful to leave any grit in the bottom of the bowl), and the beef along with the herb and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat so that the soup bubbles gently. Cover and cook undisturbed for 30 minutes. Stir in the celery root, cover, and continue cooking until the meat and vegetables are tender, another 20 to 30 minutes. Add more liquid if the mixture seems too dry.

5. Remove the herb sprigs and bay leaf, taste, and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with the parsley and serve immediately (or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days).

Sauerkraut and Sausage Soup

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 ¼ hours, largely unattended

Good sauerkraut (which is what you want here and every time you eat sauerkraut) comes in jars or refrigerated packages; stay away from the canned stuff or anything that contains more than cabbage and salt. Sweet caramelized onions and apples balance its tanginess. Be sure to see the variation for this recipe’s spicy Korean counterpart.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 smoked sausage links (like kielbasa or andouille), cut into 1-inch slices

1 large onion, halved and sliced

2 Granny Smith or other tart apples, peeled, cored, and chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Salt and black pepper

1 pound sauerkraut (about 2 cups), drained and rinsed

½ cup white wine (slightly sweet, like riesling, is traditional, but dry is fine also)

6 cups vegetable, chicken, or beef stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water

2 bay leaves

6 cloves

6 juniper berries, optional

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the sausage and cook, turning as needed, until they’re browned on both sides, 5 to 10 minutes total; remove.

2. Add the onion to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the apples and garlic, sprinkle with a little salt and lots of pepper, and continue cooking and stirring until the apples start to release their liquid, about 3 minutes more. Turn the heat down to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion and apples are very tender and golden, 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Return the heat to medium-high and add the sauerkraut. Keep cooking and stirring until the mixture is dry and starts to stick to the bottom of the pan, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the wine, stirring to loosen the bits of vegetable that have stuck to the bottom, then add the stock.

4. Return the sausage to the soup, and add the bay leaves, cloves, and the juniper berries if you’re using them. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat so that the soup bubbles gently. Cover and cook until the sauerkraut is very tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Fish out the cloves, bay leaves, and juniper berries (if you used them), then taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve. (You can make this soup up to a day in advance and refrigerate for a day or 2 or freeze for months; reheat gently before serving.)

Kimchi and Crab Soup. Doesn’t sound related, but it is, closely and wonderfully. Omit the sausage, apples, and spices. Substitute good, fresh kimchi (visit a Korean store) for the sauerkraut and use 1 cup chopped scallions instead of the onion. Begin the recipe by heating the oil in the pot and cooking the scallions as described in Step 2. When the soup is finished cooking, stir 8 ounces cooked lump crab meat into the pot. Serve immediately, garnished with chopped fresh cilantro and drizzled with a few drops of soy sauce and sesame oil.

Tahini Soup with Spinach and Lamb

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour

Searing the lamb with a mixture of spices gives this soup an incredibly fragrant broth and a deep smokiness. The tahini, stirred in with stock and tomatoes, adds silkiness and a lovely Middle Eastern flavor.

3 tablespoons olive oil

8 ounces boneless lamb shoulder, cut into chunks (buy chops if necessary)

1 tablespoon cumin

1 teaspoon coriander

½ teaspoon turmeric

½ teaspoon cinnamon

Salt and black pepper

1 large onion, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

4 cups vegetable, chicken, or beef stock (for homemade, see pages 135 to 140) or water

½ cup tahini

2 cups chopped tomatoes (canned are fine; include their juice)

2 pounds spinach, roughly chopped

1. Put the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Toss the lamb in a bowl with the cumin, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, salt, and pepper. When the oil is hot, add the lamb. Cook, turning as necessary, until the lamb is deeply browned all over, about 10 minutes total.

2. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, 5 to 10 minutes.

3. Add the stock, tahini, and tomatoes, stir, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat so the mixture gently bubbles and cook until the meat is tender, about 30 minutes. (You can make the soup up to this point a day or 2 ahead; gently reheat before proceeding.)

4. Add the spinach, cover, and cook for a few more minutes until it wilts. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve.

Peanut Soup with Cabbage and Chicken. Substitute boneless chicken thighs for the lamb. Remove them from the pot before adding the vegetables and return to the pot after adding the liquid. Add 1 tablespoon minced ginger along with the garlic in Step 2. Substitute ½ cup chunky peanut butter for the tahini, and 1 large head cabbage, sliced into thin ribbons, for the spinach. Cook until the chicken is very tender, about 45 minutes.

Quick Vegetable Stock

Makes: More than 2 quarts

Time: 20 to 40 minutes

Vegetable stock is a good friend to the modern cook, easier to make than fish, chicken, or meat stock and equally flavorful even if with less body.

Simplicity is a virtue here, but some potential additions are dried or fresh mushrooms; dried, fresh, or canned tomatoes; root vegetables like parsnips or turnips; winter squash; fresh herbs; leeks; lemon zest; cloves or other warm spices; ginger root. Avoid bell peppers or eggplant, which are too bitter. And remember that if you use cabbage, cauliflower, or broccoli, their flavors will dominate.

4 carrots, cut into chunks

2 medium or 1 large onion, unpeeled, quartered

2 potatoes, cut into chunks

3 celery stalks, roughly chopped

3 or 4 garlic cloves

20 or so stems parsley, with or without leaves

Salt and black pepper

1. Combine everything in a stockpot with 3 quarts water, a pinch of salt, and a sprinkling of pepper. Bring to a boil and adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles steadily but gently. Cook until the vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes. (Cooking longer will improve the flavor, but a few minutes less won’t hurt much either.)

2. Strain, then taste and adjust the seasoning before using. Cool before refrigerating or freezing.

Quick Shrimp or Fish Stock. Use as many or as few of the vegetables in the main recipe as you like; they add complexity but aren’t essential. In Step 1, use the shells from about 1 pound shrimp or the bones and scraps from 1 pound or so raw fish (your fishmonger often has these for sale or for free). You won’t need to simmer the stock as long to extract good flavor; 10 minutes or so will do the trick. Strain, then season and use, or store as above.

Mushroom Stock

Makes: About 6 cups

Time: About 1 hour

For many of the soups in this chapter you will probably want to use vegetable stock or even just plain water, but if you are making a soup with mushrooms in it—or you just want the particular flavor of mushrooms—this rich, deeply colored stock is undoubtedly the way to go. It also makes a nice broth to just eat or drink, especially the variation.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small onion or 2 shallots (or 1 leek trimmed, well rinsed), sliced

2 carrots, chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

Salt and black pepper

1 pound button mushrooms, chopped

1 ounce dried shiitake, porcini, or Chinese black mushrooms, or a combination

1 bunch fresh parsley, stems and leaves

4 sprigs fresh thyme, or a few pinches dried

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

2 bay leaves

1. Put 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the carrots and celery and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until tender, another 10 minutes or so. Remove with a slotted spoon.

2. Put the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the pan and turn the heat to high. When the oil is hot, add the button mushrooms. Cook, stirring, until they give up their juices and begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with salt, then add the dried mushrooms and cooked vegetables and stir.

3. Stir in 2 quarts water along with the parsley, thyme, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat so that the stock bubbles steadily. Cook, stirring once or twice, until the vegetables are very soft and the stock has reduced slightly, about 30 minutes. Strain, then taste and adjust the seasoning before using. Cool before refrigerating or freezing.

Mushroom Stock with Asian Flavors. While cooking the onion in Step 1, add 3 smashed garlic cloves and a 2-inch piece of ginger or lemongrass cut into coins. Substitute cilantro for the parsley, and omit the thyme or replace it with a couple of star anise if you have them. Add 2 tablespoons soy sauce and 1 lime, halved, along with the water in Step 3.

Roasted Vegetable Stock

Makes: 3 quarts

Time: About 2 hours, largely unattended

This recipe requires more time than the preceding vegetable stock (page 135), but it produces enough for at least two separate soups and is good enough to serve straight up. Roasting amplifies the vegetables’ sweetness, earthiness, grassiness, and so on; then simmering combines and mellows everything. You have some leeway about what vegetables you choose as long as you avoid those that are strong or bitter.

¼ cup olive oil

1 leek, trimmed, well rinsed, and cut into chunks

1 large onion, unpeeled, quartered

4 carrots, cut into chunks

2 celery stalks, cut into chunks

2 parsnips, cut into chunks

½ medium winter squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into chunks

2 potatoes, quartered

6 garlic cloves

1 pound mushrooms, any variety, halved or sliced

½ cup white or red wine

1 small bunch fresh parsley, stems and leaves

3 or 4 bay leaves

¼ cup soy sauce, or to taste

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

Salt and black pepper

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Combine the oil, leek, onion, carrots, celery, parsnips, squash, potatoes, garlic, and mushrooms in a large roasting pan; toss to coat all the vegetables with oil. Put the pan in the oven and roast, shaking the pan occasionally and turning the vegetables once or twice, until everything is nicely browned, about 45 minutes.

2. Add the wine and 2 cups water to the pan and scrape up all the crisp bits from the bottom and sides. Transfer the vegetables and liquid to a stockpot; add the parsley, bay leaves, soy sauce, peppercorns, 2½ quarts water, and a large pinch of salt.

3. Bring to a boil, then partially cover and adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently. Cook until the vegetables are very soft, 30 to 45 minutes. Strain, pressing on the vegetables to extract as much juice as possible. Store or use right away, but in any case wait to taste and adjust the seasoning until you use the stock.

Chicken-Vegetable (or Meat-Vegetable) Stock

Makes: At least 2 quarts

Time: 1 to 2½ hours, largely unattended

The only differences between using chicken and meat here are the time—meat stock takes at least twice as long—and, of course, the flavor. But you don’t need to pay much attention to either. For darker, richer versions of these basic stocks, or a really intensely flavored chicken-vegetable stock, see the variations.

About 2 pounds cut-up chicken pieces or meaty beef, veal, lamb, or pork bones

1 large onion, unpeeled and roughly chopped

2 large carrots, roughly chopped

3 celery stalks, roughly chopped

2 bay leaves

1 small bunch fresh parsley, stems and leaves

Pinch of salt, or to taste

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns

1. Combine all of the ingredients in a large stockpot with 3 quarts water (or enough to cover the ingredients by a few inches) and turn the heat to high.

2. Bring just about to a boil, then partially cover and adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently. Cook, skimming off any foam that accumulates on the surface, until the chicken or meat is falling off the bones, about 45 minutes for the chicken or 2 hours for the meat.

3. Cool slightly, then strain, pressing on the meat and solids to extract more juice. (You can use the meat in other recipes, but it doesn’t have much flavor.) Skim off as much fat as you can and use the stock immediately or refrigerate (skim off any hardened fat from the surface) and use within 3 days or freeze for several months. Wait to season the stock until you use it.

Browner Chicken or Meat Stock. Much stronger flavored. Put 3 tablespoons vegetable oil in a roasting pan or wide pot over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the chicken or meat bones and brown well on all sides (this might take up to 20 or 30 minutes for beef or veal bones). Add the vegetables and continue cooking until they are browned. Transfer the ingredients to a large stockpot, add 3½ quarts of water, the bay leaves, parsley, salt, and peppercorns, and continue with the recipe as written.

Twice-Cooked Chicken and Vegetable Stock. This is super-delicious; halve the recipe if you need to. In a large stockpot combine 12 cups of finished chicken stock, 2 large onions, 3 large carrots, 4 celery stalks (all roughly chopped), two bay leaves, parsley sprigs, salt, and peppercorns. Bring just about to a boil, then back down to a gentle bubble. Cover partially and cook until the vegetables are very tender and the stock has reduced a bit, about 45 minutes. Cool, strain, and store as above.