Noodles with Mushrooms

Mushrooms have an earthy flavor and a chewy texture that people often describe as “meaty.” And they are, especially if you add dried mushrooms into the mix. This is a wonderfully satisfying vegetarian pasta dish, whether you go for the Italian profile of the main recipe, or the Asian-style variation.

¼ to ½ cup dried porcini mushrooms (optional)

1 cup hot water (optional)

Salt

1 pound fresh mushrooms (shiitakes are nice here; remove the stems and save them for another use)

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons minced shallot or 1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 pound dried pasta, preferably whole wheat

About ½ cup chopped fresh parsley leaves, plus more for garnish

1 Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. If you’re using the porcini, put them in a small bowl, cover with the hot water, and set aside to soak for about 15 minutes. (If you’re not using them, skip to Step 2.)

2 Rinse the fresh mushrooms and trim off any hard, tough spots; cut them into small chunks or slices. If you’re using the porcini, lift them out of the soaking water; save the water, undisturbed, so that the sediment settles on the bottom of the bowl.

3 Put ¼ cup of the oil in a medium to large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add all of the mushrooms and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Raise the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms begin to brown, at least 10 minutes. Add the shallot or garlic and stir until the mushrooms are tender, another minute or two. Turn off the heat.

4 Cook the pasta until tender but not mushy, from 6 to 8 minutes. When it’s almost done, add about ½ cup of the pasta cooking water to the mushrooms (or use the porcini soaking liquid, being careful to leave the sediment in the bowl), turn the heat to low, and reheat gently. Drain the pasta, reserving a little more of the cooking water. Toss the pasta and the mushrooms together with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil; add a little of the pasta cooking water (or porcini liquid) if the dish seems dry. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Stir in the parsley and serve garnished with more parsley.

Asian-Style Noodles with Mushrooms: If using dried mushrooms, use dried shiitakes. For the fresh mushrooms, use either shiitakes or regular buttons. Substitute 3 tablespoons peanut oil and 1 tablespoon sesame oil for the olive oil; and omit the garlic or shallot. Use soba noodles instead of pasta. Proceed with the recipe, reducing the noodle cooking time to about 5 minutes. If you like, garnish with a drizzle of soy sauce, sliced scallions, and sesame seeds.