Salade Niçoise with Mustard Vinaigrette

I’ve always considered the tuna in this classic French country salad optional, since the combination of green beans, potatoes, and olives is quite satisfying, but add whatever ingredients you like from the list that follows. If you have leftovers to add, especially beans and potatoes, all the better.

The quick mustard vinaigrette is definitely garlicky; simply omit the garlic if that’s not your thing. And since you can always use this dressing for other dishes, the recipe makes enough for you to have some left over; it keeps in the fridge for a couple of days.

¼ cup red wine vinegar, plus a little more if needed

²/₃ cup olive oil, more or less

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

¼ cup fresh chopped herbs like chervil, dill, tarragon, or parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ pound fresh green beans, trimmed

½ pound small waxy potatoes, like red skin or fingerlings, scrubbed but not peeled, and cut in half

8 cups torn assorted lettuces and other salad greens, including some whole basil leaves if you like

1 cup good black olives, preferably niçoise or any oil-cured

4 ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into wedges

1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 Set a large pot of water to boil and salt it; get a bowl of ice water ready by the stove. Make the vinaigrette by putting the vinegar, oil, garlic, and mustard in a glass jar or small bowl; sprinkle with salt and lots of pepper and add the herbs if you’re using them. Shake or stir and taste. Add more vinegar or oil if necessary and adjust the seasoning. Set aside.

2 When the water boils, put the green beans into the pot. When they turn bright green and are crisp-tender (in about 3 minutes), use tongs or a slotted spoon to fish them out and plunge them into the ice water to cool. Drain the beans and refill the bowl with ice water.

3 Add the potatoes to the pot. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles enthusiastically. Start checking the potatoes in about 5 minutes. You want them tender at the core, but not falling apart. When they’re done, plunge them into the bowl of ice water to cool; then drain.

4 Arrange all the salad ingredients nicely on a platter: greens on the bottom, topped with the beans, potatoes, tomatoes, onions, and olives, plus any other ingredients you like. Drizzle with half of the vinaigrette. Or for a more rustic dish, simply toss all the ingredients together. Pass the remaining vinaigrette at the table, or reserve it for later.