Pot of Beans

I’m on a mission to make sure every fridge or freezer in America is stocked with a container of home-cooked beans, and this recipe is my ammunition—a simple process that requires no advance planning and very little attention, yet provides the backbone for several delicious meals.

Here are foolproof beans any way you like them: skins intact for salads and stir-fries, or soupy for spooning over rice. If you have time to soak the beans without boiling them, put them in a bowl with tap water to cover and set them aside (no longer than 12 hours, or they’ll cook up mushy). You can also skip soaking altogether and cook the beans straight through; it won’t take much longer.

Some people believe a pot of beans has no flavor without some meat. I disagree, but meat certainly adds richness; you might, however, be surprised at how little meat it takes to do the trick. See the sidebar on Chapter 10 for some flavoring and serving suggestions.

1 pound dried beans (any kind but lentils, split peas, or peeled and split beans), washed and picked over

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Put the beans in a large pot with a tightly fitting lid and cover with cold water by a couple of inches. Bring the pot to a boil and let it boil, uncovered, for about 2 minutes. Cover the pot and turn the heat off. Let the beans soak for at least 1 hour or up to 2 hours.

2 Taste a bean. If it’s at all tender (it won’t be ready), add a large pinch of salt and several grinds of black pepper. Make sure the beans are covered with about an inch of water; add a little more if necessary. If the beans are still hard, don’t add salt yet, and cover with about 2 inches of water.

3 Bring the pot to a boil, then adjust the heat so that the beans bubble gently. Partially cover and cook, stirring every now and then, checking the beans for doneness every 10 or 15 minutes, and adding more water if necessary, a little at a time. Small beans will take as little as 30 minutes more; older, large beans can take up to an hour or more. If you haven’t added salt and pepper yet, add them when the beans are just turning tender. Stop cooking when the beans are done the way you like them, and taste and adjust the seasoning.

4 Here you have a few options. Drain the beans (reserving the liquid separately) to use them as an ingredient in salads or other dishes where they need to be dry; or finish them with one of the ideas from the list below. Or store the beans as is and use with or without their liquid as needed. They’ll keep in the fridge for days, and in the freezer for months.

Pot of Lentils or Split Peas: No need to soak, since they cook fast—usually in less than 30 minutes. Put them in a large pot with a tightly fitting lid and cover with cold water by a couple of inches. Bring the pot to a boil, then reduce the heat so that they bubble gently. Partially cover and cook, stirring infrequently and checking for doneness every 10 or 15 minutes; add a little more water if necessary. When they start to get tender, add a large pinch of salt and several grinds of black pepper; stop cooking when they’re done the way you like them, taste and adjust the seasoning, and use immediately or store.

Pot of Fresh (or Frozen) Shell Beans: For limas, favas, edamame (in or out of the pod), and the like; cook like vegetables. Bring a pot of water to boil and salt it. Add the beans and cook until just tender (if the beans are in their shells, test one every now and then). This can be as quick as a few minutes, and rarely does it take longer than 10 minutes. Drain, reserving the liquid if you like, and serve or refrigerate for later.