Spring

We expect so much of spring, and though it comes slowly, it brings lettuce and other greens, peas, asparagus, onions, rhubarb, strawberries, broccoli, turnips, beets, and more. After a long winter when almost every vegetable comes from the great Central Valley of California or even farther away, anything local is welcome.

We can do wonderful things with that produce as it becomes available. Everything mentioned above, along with spinach, escarole, endive, citrus, arugula, fennel, and more, makes its way into dishes that draw back the curtain of winter.

1.

Fried Eggs with Lemon and Chervil

Chervil, an herb that tastes like basil, can be hard to find, but tarragon and chives are fine substitutes.

Cook a little minced garlic in butter over medium heat until fragrant, then add a few tablespoons of lemon juice and cook a couple of minutes more. Gently add four eggs to the pan, cover, and cook until just set. Sprinkle with freshly chopped chervil and serve with crusty bread.

2.

Chilaquiles

To avoid frying fresh tortillas, use tortilla chips.

Cut corn tortillas (flour tortillas will do, but they’re not as good) into strips. Fry in not too much oil—with a few chopped jalapeños, pickled or not, if you tend in that direction—until crisp, about three minutes, turning; drain on paper towels. Beat a few eggs with a bit of milk or cream and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat a tablespoon or so of the frying oil (save or discard the rest) and add the tortilla strips and eggs. Cook, stirring, until the eggs are done, two to four minutes. Garnish with salsa (or stir some salsa in there), chopped avocado, cheese, scallions, sour cream, or whatever else you like.

3.

Mixed Herb Omelet

A combo of thyme, basil, marjoram, and rosemary is also good.

Beat four eggs with two tablespoons of milk. Add a pinch of salt and pepper and a small handful of parsley and mint, along with smaller amounts of tarragon and thyme. Set a medium nonstick pan over medium-low heat and add butter to the pan, followed, a minute or two later, by the egg mixture. Cook, undisturbed, until the eggs are mostly set but still quite runny in the center. Fold the omelet in half, slide it from the pan, and serve topped with more chopped herbs.

4.

Hangtown Fry

Supposedly the breakfast of forty-niners (the gold miners, not the football team).

Cook about one-quarter pound of chopped bacon (slab is best) in a little olive oil over medium heat for a minute or two; add one-half cup mushrooms (shiitakes are good) if you like, and cook until brown, with salt and pepper. Add six or eight shucked oysters, cook for a half minute or so. Stir in four or five beaten eggs, with some parsley. Scramble soft and serve with toast.

5.

Eggs Bhona

Add as much or as little spice as you like to this Bangladeshi take on eggs dish.

Boil eight eggs for about six minutes; meanwhile, cook a chopped onion and a chopped green bell pepper in vegetable oil, just until soft. Add a crushed clove of garlic, one-quarter teaspoon each ground ginger and turmeric, a pinch each of red chile flakes and salt, a bay leaf, and a quarter cup of tomato paste and give a good stir. Then add a cup or so boiling water to make a sauce. Shell the eggs and add to the onion mixture. Cover and cook for five minutes.

6.

Lemongrass-and-Chicken Soup

You can add rice vermicelli or mung bean noodles to this if you like.

Heat chicken stock, about a cup-and-a-half per serving. Trim a stalk of lemongrass per serving; bruise the pieces with the back of a knife. Add the lemongrass and a few slices of ginger to the stock, along with two or three minced hot chiles, or to taste. After a few minutes, remove the lemongrass and ginger and add fish or soy sauce and chopped oyster mushrooms or any other mushrooms and some chunks of cooked chicken (or pork, beef, or cubed tofu). Season with lime juice (lots) and salt, and garnish with cilantro leaves.

7.

Udon Noodles with Green Tea Broth

You can embellish this with bonito flakes, cucumber or avocado slices, chopped scallions, sesame seeds, or shredded cooked beef or chicken.

Bring about two quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Tie three tablespoons of green tea leaves in a piece of cheesecloth or put in a tea ball. Remove the pot from the heat and steep the tea for about five minutes or to desired strength. Discard the tea and return to a boil, adding a pinch of salt. Add eight ounces of udon noodles. Cook, stirring once or twice, until noodles are tender. Taste and add some more salt, pepper, and mirin or sugar if desired.

8.

Miso Soup with Tofu

For more substance, add a few chopped cooked shrimp or some shredded chicken.

Bring four or five cups of water to a boil. Whisk a cup of the water with a quarter cup of miso (more if you like) in a bowl until smooth. Pour the miso mix into the water and add cubed tofu, minced carrots, and minced scallions to serve with soy sauce on the side.

9.

Lime and Chicken Soup

Pretty much a perfect combination of flavors, as long as you’re generous with both lime juice and cilantro.

Cut a couple boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs into one-half-inch chunks; brown in olive oil; then add a chopped onion, a smashed garlic clove, a pinch of cinnamon, and the zest of a lime; cook a minute or so. Add six cups chicken broth and bring to a boil. Stir in a chopped avocado and the juice from the lime. Serve, sprinkled with lots of cilantro, with tortilla chips on the side.

10.

Spinach and White Bean Soup

Any tender green is fine here; arugula, watercress, or dandelion adds a nice peppery flavor.

Cook half a chopped onion with a smashed clove of garlic in some olive oil for about three minutes. Add precooked or canned white beans (with their liquid) and about five cups of chicken or vegetable broth; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for about five minutes, mashing some of the beans a bit if you like. Add two or three cups of chopped spinach and one-quarter cup chopped parsley. Stir to wilt the greens and serve with a hunk of crusty bread and grated Parmesan.

11.

Asparagus Leek Soup

A nice combination of early spring ingredients.

Slice the white part of a leek and cook it for three to five minutes in a couple of tablespoons of butter or oil along with a smashed clove of garlic, a chopped carrot, and a bunch of chopped fresh asparagus. Add about six cups of chicken or vegetable stock and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are tender, five minutes or so. Puree the ingredients until smooth. You can add a few tablespoons of cream if you want a richer finish.

12.

Soup with Poached Eggs and Greens

It doesn’t get much faster or better than this.

Bring six cups of vegetable or chicken stock to a slow bubble. Add two cups of any chopped tender greens (spinach, arugula, and mizuna all work well), then four shelled eggs, along with a couple of smashed cloves of garlic, some freshly grated Parmesan, and red chile flakes to taste. Cook until the whites of the eggs are set but the yolks still soft, about three minutes. Scoop out the garlic cloves if you care, and serve immediately.

13.

Chilled Cucumber and Dill Soup

The fresh dill is what makes this fabulous.

Peel and seed three cucumbers. Chop them up and put in a blender with two cups of buttermilk, a half cup of sour cream, a tablespoon of olive oil, a couple of tablespoons of freshly chopped dill, a pinch of sugar, salt, and a splash of white wine vinegar. Puree and garnish with fresh dill. Serve with crusty bread.

14.

Vietnamese Noodle Soup with Beef

I poach an egg or two in this soup at the end, but you can also just add a couple of hard-boiled eggs.

Soak rice vermicelli and a handful of snow peas, cut in pieces if you like, in boiling water for about 10 minutes. Drain the noodle–snow pea combination in a colander and rinse with cold water; divide evenly among four bowls. Quickly cook a few slices of fresh ginger and a chopped chile, then add a quart of beef broth along with two cups of water and bring to a simmer. Divide one-half pound of thinly sliced rare roast beef among the four bowls (roast beef from a deli is fine, though leftovers are preferable), along with a few torn basil, cilantro, and mint leaves. Stir a tablespoon or so of Asian fish sauce and fresh lime juice into the simmering broth and ladle into bowls. Serve immediately.

15.

Fast Fish Soup

Not a true bouillabaisse, but a good and very fast knockoff.

In a couple tablespoons of olive oil, soften a chopped onion, a smashed clove of garlic, and half teaspoon paprika for about two minutes. Add four cups of stock (fish, vegetable, or chicken), a can of chopped-up tomatoes with their juice, a pinch of saffron, salt, and pepper; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for five minutes. Add about a pound or a pound-and-a-half of white fish, cut into chunks, to the stock; or a mix of scallops, shrimp, and well-washed clams, with some fish if you like. Simmer until the fish is cooked through, about five minutes more. Serve garnished with chopped parsley and slices of toasted baguette.

16.

Classic Caesar Salad

The quality of your anchovies will make a difference; use those marinated in olive oil and packed in glass.

Rub the inside of a large salad bowl (wooden, preferably) with a clove of garlic. Cook two eggs in gently boiling water for about a minute to a minute and a half (you want them barely coddled). Crack the eggs into the bowl and beat them as you add freshly squeezed lemon juice and a few tablespoons of olive oil. Stir in two or more anchovies (you can chop these first if you like), a dash or two of Worcestershire sauce, salt, and plenty of pepper. Toss with a chopped head of romaine, garnish with lots of freshly grated Parmesan, and serve with Italian bread or croutons.

17.

Salad Niçoise

The classic composed French salad made simple.

Boil and salt a pot of water. Chop a couple of potatoes (peeled or not) into half-inch dice and boil until a knife can be easily inserted, about eight minutes. When the potatoes are nearly done, add a handful of trimmed green beans or haricots verts and cook until crisp-tender, just a minute or two. Drain the vegetables and plunge them into ice water to stop the cooking process. Put a bunch of mixed baby greens in a bowl with the beans, the potatoes, a handful of good-quality black olives, a few chopped anchovies, a diced tomato, and half a sliced red onion. Combine one-quarter cup of olive oil, a few tablespoons of sherry vinegar, a teaspoon or so of Dijon mustard, salt, and pepper and dress the salad. Top the salad with a drained can of tuna packed in olive oil.

18.

Spinach Salad with Smoked Trout and Apples

You can use either tart or sweet apples; just make sure they’re crisp.

Toast a handful or two of sliced almonds in a dry skillet until just fragrant. Core two apples and cut them into thin slices. In a large bowl, whisk together a quarter cup of olive oil, the juice of a lemon, and a tablespoon of Dijon mustard. Add the apples and toss to coat. Break a smoked trout into bite-size pieces and add it to the bowl along with a mound of fresh spinach, the toasted almonds, and a handful of currants or raisins. Season with salt and pepper.

19.

Poached Eggs and Truffled Arugula Prosciutto Salad

Real truffles are best, of course, but occasionally truffle oil can be nice; you can also use good-quality extra-virgin olive oil here.

Sear a few slices of prosciutto on high heat to crisp them, about two minutes, then set it aside to drain on a paper towel. Poach four eggs in boiling water for about three minutes. Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon, draining off all the excess water, and set them on a large bed of arugula. Top the eggs with the prosciutto, crumbling it between your fingers. Sprinkle the salad with a few dashes of truffle oil, along with salt and pepper to taste.

20.

Carrot and Couscous Salad

An incredibly easy salad with North African flavors.

Add couscous to a pot of boiling water, turn off the heat, cover, and let sit for 10 minutes. Shred four or five carrots and mix them with the juice of a lemon, a few tablespoons of fresh orange juice, about one-quarter cup of olive oil, a bit of cumin, and salt and pepper. When the couscous is done, drain it if necessary, fluff it gently with a fork, and add it to the carrots along with a handful of raisins. Toss well and serve.

21.

Chive Salad

Add cooked chicken, shrimp, or tofu to make this a meal.

In a large salad bowl, whisk together equal parts soy sauce, water, and rice wine vinegar. Add a few drops of sesame oil and a pinch of sugar. Roughly chop a couple of bunches of chives and add them to the bowl along with some chopped romaine or iceberg lettuce. Toss well and serve.

22.

Asparagus and Sesame Salad

Thinner asparagus works better here; but be careful not to overcook the spears.

Trim a bunch of asparagus, then cut the spears on the bias. Cook them quickly in a bit of vegetable oil for a minute or two, or until they turn bright green (you can also blanch them quickly in boiling water). Toss the cooked spears with a tablespoon or two of sesame oil, a splash of rice vinegar, a drizzle of soy sauce, and a sprinkle of sugar if you like; garnish with toasted sesame seeds and chopped scallions.

23.

Seared Scallops with Escarole, Fennel, and Orange Salad

You can mix this up a bit by using grapefruit, tangerines, blood oranges, or any combination of sweet citrus.

In a large salad bowl, mix together about one-quarter cup olive oil, a few splashes of white wine or sherry vinegar, some salt and pepper, and the zest of an orange. Now peel the orange, getting as much pith off as you can, and divide the fruit into sections. Core and thinly slice a head of fennel and toss this into the bowl with a couple of cups of chopped escarole and the orange sections. Sear eight to 12 scallops in olive oil until nicely browned on both sides, sprinkling them with salt and pepper. Give the salad another good toss and serve the scallops on top.

24.

BLT Salad

The avocado dressing really sets this apart.

Fry a few small cubes of slab bacon for about five minutes or until crisp. Puree an avocado, a handful of basil leaves, a clove of garlic, juice from one—or more—limes, about one-quarter cup of olive oil, salt, and pepper together in a food processor or blender; if you like a thinner dressing, add a few drops of water. Mix a head of Bibb or romaine lettuce with sliced tomatoes and chopped red onions. Add the bacon to the vegetables and dress with the pureed mixture. Serve with warm, crusty bread.

25.

Spicy Pork Salad

For an even spicier version, add a pinch or two of cayenne or red chile flakes to the rub.

Coat thin, boneless pork chops with a mixture of sugar, cumin, chili powder, and salt and set aside to marinate. Combine a few handfuls of baby spinach leaves with half a thinly sliced red pepper, sections of a navel orange, a sliced avocado, and a small handful of toasted pine nuts. Mix together some olive oil, a good squeeze of fresh lime and orange juices, a teaspoon of Dijon mustard, salt, and pepper to dress the salad. Grill, broil, or pan-cook the pork until it’s just done; cut into strips; and serve on top of the vegetables with the dressing drizzled over all.

26.

Lebanese Potato Salad

Frozen favas are a lovely addition to the pot; allow a minute or two more cooking time.

Peel and chop four or five large Yukon Gold potatoes; put them in a pot, cover with salted water, bring to a boil, and cook until tender, adding about a cup of frozen peas during the last couple of minutes of cooking. Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Transfer to a large bowl; dress with olive oil, freshly squeezed lemon juice, minced garlic, chopped parsley and scallions, salt, pepper, and coriander seeds if you like and toss to mix well. Serve warm, cold, or in between.

27.

Greek Stuffed Pita Bread

For a salad skip the pita and toss everything with lots of romaine.

Mix together about a cup of plain yogurt, some chopped fresh mint, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Slice the pitas in half crosswise to create pockets. Stuff the pockets with chopped tomatoes, feta cheese, cucumbers, oil-cured black olives, and roasted red peppers (the ones from a jar are fine; drain them first). Top with a dollop or two of the yogurt mixture and serve.

28.

Green Papaya Salad, with Shrimp

Green papaya is just unripe papaya, easy enough to find.

Cook a dozen or more medium shrimp in a little vegetable oil. Meanwhile, combine a tablespoon of brown sugar, juice of a lime, a garlic clove, a tablespoon fish or soy sauce, one-half teaspoon chile flakes (more or less), and some peeled ginger in a blender or food processor and puree. Grate (the food processor is good for this) a peeled and seeded green papaya (not one the size of a football) and two carrots. Toss with shrimp, sliced fresh tomatoes, and dressing; season to taste; and top with chopped peanuts.

29.

Tuna and Bean Salad

Tuna packed in olive oil, from Europe, is the key here, as is good olive oil.

Mix a cup or so of precooked or canned cannellini beans (drained) with a can of good tuna, a handful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, a teeny bit of garlic (optional) or shallot (or red onion, or scallion, or whatever), and, if you have it, a sprig of rosemary. Drizzle with olive oil, toss, adjust seasoning, and serve with good bread or alongside cold cooked asparagus.

30.

Curried Chicken Salad Sandwich

Almost any fairly neutral-flavored cooked chicken is fine here, or use store-bought rotisserie chicken.

Combine a spoonful or two of plain yogurt and half a fresh chopped mango (it doesn’t have to be too ripe) in a large bowl. Add a few squeezes of fresh lime juice and curry powder to taste. Season with salt and pepper. Add shredded chicken, along with fresh chopped scallions and cilantro. Taste and adjust the seasoning; if the mixture is too moist, add more chicken or vegetables; if it’s too dry, add more yogurt. Spread the salad on rolls, add arugula or lettuce, and serve.

31.

“Potpie” Chicken Salad Sandwich

Shuck a half cup of fresh peas, or run frozen peas under warm water and drain. Whisk together one-quarter cup chopped parsley, one-quarter cup cream, one-quarter cup mayonnaise, two tablespoons cider vinegar, and some salt and pepper. Chop a stalk of celery, a couple of scallions, and a carrot; add them to the bowl along with two cups chopped cooked chicken and the peas. Stir to combine, moistening with more cream if needed. Serve on bread, rolls, or croissants.

32.

Minted Pea and Prosciutto Sandwich

An unbeatable combination.

Blanch half of a bag of frozen peas in salted, boiling water. Put the peas in a food processor or blender with a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, a handful each of grated Parmesan and chopped mint, salt, and pepper; puree until smooth. Spread the pea mixture onto toasted sourdough bread and layer with slices of prosciutto.

33.

Cheese “Burger”

I’m not saying you’ll never go back to meat, but these are intense. Keep ’em small, and garnish freely; even traditional burger garnishes are fine.

Combine two cups grated Parmesan cheese with a handful of chopped parsley and about a cup good breadcrumbs (all of this can be done together in a food processor). Add two beaten eggs and gently mold into thin patties. Heat olive oil and cook patties until brown around the edges, about five minutes. Flip and cook the other side for another three minutes. Serve with tomato sauce or on a bun with garnishes.

34.

Seared Chicken Arugula Rollups

If you feel inspired, include a slice of prosciutto in each roll.

Flatten some chicken tenders with your hand or the bottom of a pot, brush both sides with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Crumble some Gorgonzola on each and top with a couple of arugula leaves. Roll the chicken up tightly lengthwise and secure with a toothpick. Warm some butter over medium-high heat and sear rollups until browned on all sides, about six minutes. Serve with toasted baguette slices rubbed with fresh garlic.

35.

Anchovy Egg Sandwich

Served open-face, this is pretty close to perfect.

Hard-boil four eggs. While they’re cooking, smear a slice of rye toast with sour cream or plain yogurt; top with sliced tomatoes and good-quality anchovies. When the eggs are done, peel them and slice them onto the sandwich. Drizzle with olive oil and garnish with fresh dill (a sprinkling of dried dill will work too).

36.

Middle Eastern Pizza

Also known as lahmacun.

Mix together about a half pound of ground lamb, a chopped onion, a chopped tomato (canned is fine), some minced garlic, a couple of tablespoons tomato paste, some chopped fresh mint, salt, and pepper. Spread a thin layer on pocketless pita or lavash bread; bake at 450°F for eight minutes, or until the lamb is fully cooked. Sprinkle with lemon juice and serve.

37.

Italian Tostada

OK, it’s not traditional, but it’s pretty good, like an extremely thin-crust pizza.

Heat the oven to 400°F. Brush flour tortillas with olive oil and bake until firmed up a bit. Evenly spread thinly sliced mozzarella cheese (preferably fresh), some chopped tomato, and slices of prosciutto on top. Bake again until the cheese melts. Drizzle a bunch of arugula with olive oil and lemon juice. Add the greens to the top of the tostadas and put them back in the oven for about a minute to gently wilt. Serve whole or sliced like a pizza.

38.

Chickpea Burgers

If you like hummus, this is your kind of burger.

Drain a can of chickpeas and put them in a food processor with a chopped shallot or some onion, a bit of oregano, paprika, salt, and an egg. Pulse the mixture until it’s slightly grainy but even in consistency. Add enough flour—about a quarter cup—so you can form the mixture into flat burger patties. Sear them in olive oil until golden, about four minutes per side. Serve on good whole grain bread or a bun with tahini (optional), greens, and a squeeze of lemon juice.

39.

Saag Paneer

If you can’t find paneer (an Indian cheese), use feta or tofu, which both work wonderfully.

Cut about a cup-and-a-half of paneer, feta, or firm tofu into half-inch cubes and chop a pound of spinach. Cook some minced garlic and ginger in peanut oil or another oil, along with a pinch or two of red chile flakes until soft, about two minutes. Stir in curry powder to taste (at least a tablespoon), along with some salt and pepper; add the spinach and cook until it wilts. Stir in a dusting of flour (use chickpea flour if you have it) and cook until just turning golden. Add a couple of spoonfuls of plain yogurt and a cup of half-and-half or cream; cook gently until the mixture begins to dry out. Add the paneer, feta, or tofu, and continue cooking until warmed through; add more half-and-half or cream if necessary, adjust the seasonings, and serve.

40.

Ketchup-Braised Tofu with Veggies

You can use sugar snap peas or asparagus tips instead of green beans.

Press extra-firm tofu between layers of paper towels for a few minutes, or longer if you have time; cut into one-inch squares. Heat a few tablespoons of vegetable oil in a skillet and sear the tofu until golden and crisp, turning once or twice. Add about one-quarter cup of ketchup, a dash of rice vinegar, a few drops of sesame oil, and enough water to make a little sauce. Stir in a thinly sliced carrot, a couple of handfuls of green beans, and a pinch of red chile flakes. Cover the skillet and reduce the heat; braise for about four minutes or until the vegetables are just tender. At the last minute, toss in a handful of bean sprouts or shredded cabbage, give a good stir, and serve, with soy sauce on the side.

41.

Snap Peas with Walnuts and Roquefort

You can also use slender haricots verts here if you can find them.

Cook about a pound of snap peas in salted, boiling water until crisp-tender, about a minute. Drain and shock in ice water to stop the cooking. Soften a minced shallot in olive oil until it’s translucent, for another minute or so. Add a handful of chopped walnuts and cook until fragrant, about another minute. Add the peas, salt, and pepper and warm through. Serve with Roquefort cheese crumbled on top.

42.

Spicy Stir-fried Bean Sprouts

Try starting this dish with ground pork, chicken, minced shrimp or tempeh, or crumbled tofu.

Heat a film of peanut or vegetable oil in a deep skillet and add a mound of bean sprouts with minced fresh ginger and a bit of minced chile if you like; toss to coat with oil. Cook, stirring, for about three minutes, then add a couple of tablespoons of any spice blend (Chinese five-spice, curry powder, etc.) and some salt and pepper. Add a few drops of water if the sprouts begin to stick. Cook another minute. Serve with leaves of romaine or Boston lettuce and make little bundles of the sprouts.

43.

Crisp Fennel Gratin

Heat the broiler and bring a pot of water to a boil. Cut a couple of fennel bulbs into quarter-inch-thick slices and boil for about three minutes or until just tender. Drain and put in a shallow broiler-safe dish; top with a layer of breadcrumbs (homemade are better) and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Put the dish under the broiler for about three minutes or until the cheese melts and the breadcrumbs are golden. Garnish with some of the chopped fennel fronds if you like.

44.

Broccoli Rabe and Couscous

To add a bit of heft, crumble some cooked Italian sausage (sweet, hot, or a combination) in with the broccoli rabe.

Boil two pots of water. When the first is ready, add the couscous, turn off the heat, cover, and let it sit for 10 minutes. Salt the second pot of water and blanch a bunch of broccoli rabe for about two minutes, until crisp-tender; drain well and chop. When the couscous is done, drain if necessary and fluff it with a fork. Add the rabe along with a few tablespoons of olive oil, some freshly squeezed lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Mix to combine; top with freshly grated Parmesan and serve.

45.

Seared Fish with Lettuce Leaves

Use anything sustainable, good, fresh, and firm.

Warm a couple of tablespoons of sesame oil (or use olive or peanut oil; something with flavor, in any case) in a skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle fish chunks with salt and pepper and sear until just done. Wrap at the table in leaves of Boston or other tender lettuce, or grape leaves from a jar, garnished with lemon juice and fresh mint or lime juice and basil, mint, and/or cilantro.

46.

Fish in Spicy Soy Sauce

This easy, useful sauce can work with virtually any fish.

Combine one-quarter cup of soy sauce, one-quarter cup of water, a large pinch of sugar, a couple of chopped scallions, and a diced chile in a deep skillet; bring to a boil. Add the fish and adjust the heat so that the mixture bubbles gently. Cook for about eight minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish, turning it once or twice gently until it’s coated with the sauce. Spoon on the sauce, garnish with chopped scallions, and serve.

47.

Fish Braised in Lemon with Tomatoes and Red Peppers

Try sprinkling a few capers on top of the fish just before serving.

Thinly slice a medium onion and a red pepper, then cook them in olive oil; once they soften, add a handful of cherry tomatoes or grape tomatoes, cut in half. Season any white-fleshed fish with salt and pepper; move the vegetables to the side of the pan and sear the fish for about two minutes. Turn, add freshly squeezed lemon juice, then cover and simmer for another three minutes, or until the fish is cooked through (this may take longer, depending on the thickness of the fish). Adjust the seasonings and serve the fish topped with the vegetables and freshly chopped parsley.

48.

Prosciutto-Wrapped Fish with Wilted Greens

The prosciutto provides a wonderfully crisp crust to the tender fish, which can be any white-flesh fish.

Heat the oven to 400°F. Season fish fillets with salt and pepper and wrap them in thin slices of prosciutto (it’ll stick to itself, but no problem). In a tablespoon each of butter and olive oil, cook the fish for about two minutes on each side or until the prosciutto begins to color and crisp up; put the fish in the oven and continue cooking until done, another five minutes or so. Cook some minced garlic in olive oil and add a bunch of spinach or other tender greens until just wilted; season with salt and pepper. Serve the fish on top of the greens.

49.

Fish with Edamame Pesto

Blanch a bag’s worth of edamame for three to five minutes. Put the beans in a blender with a few tablespoons of olive oil or more, as needed to get a nice puree; a handful of grated Parmesan cheese; and a clove or two of garlic. Blend until smooth and season with salt and pepper. Season any fish fillets or steaks with salt and pepper and cook them in a couple of tablespoons of butter or olive oil for about four minutes on each side or until golden and cooked through. Serve the fish with a spoonful of the pesto and garnished with roughly chopped walnuts.

50.

Seared Fish with Fennel and Orange

More delicate fish are best in this recipe.

Slice a bulb of fennel very thinly (a mandoline works best). Peel two large oranges and segment them. Sprinkle four fish fillets with salt and pepper; dredge in flour, a beaten egg, and then panko. Sear in a mixture of olive oil and butter, turning once until both sides are golden and the fish is cooked through. Mix together a few tablespoons of olive oil, some freshly squeezed lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Drizzle the dressing on the fennel and orange slices and serve alongside the fish.

51.

Cajun-Style Salmon

A flexible rub that will boost the flavor of almost any grilled fish.

Mix together one teaspoon each paprika, coriander, cumin, and dried oregano; one-quarter teaspoon each cayenne and cinnamon; and some salt and pepper. Rub the mixture on salmon fillets and grill or broil on each side for four minutes, or to the desired doneness. Serve the salmon over a bed of mixed greens and garnish with lemon wedges.

52.

Fish with Thai “Pesto”

Use this herb paste on almost any seafood, chicken, or meat; it also works beautifully tossed with noodles.

In a food processor or blender, combine a few good handfuls of Thai basil, some cilantro, a few tablespoons of olive or vegetable oil, a fresh Thai chile, a clove of garlic, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Puree until nearly smooth, adding a bit more oil if needed. Season the fish with salt, pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. Heat a couple of tablespoons of butter or oil and cook the fish, turning once, until both sides are golden and the fish is cooked through. Top the fish generously with the pesto and serve.

53.

Crisp Fish with Citrus-Soy Glaze and Wilted Cress

Use any tender green you like here—arugula, mizuna, watercress, and dandelion all add a nice spice.

Stir together two teaspoons sugar, a teaspoon of water, and a couple of tablespoons each of grapefruit juice, lime juice, and soy sauce. Heat a couple of tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil in a pan and cook any sturdy fish fillets (skin side down, if they have skin) for about two minutes, until crispy. Flip fillets and cook them for another minute; add the citrus-soy mixture and swirl gently until it’s reduced to a glaze and the fish is cooked through. In another pan heat a tablespoon or so of olive oil; add a bunch of watercress, sprinkle with salt, and toss until just wilted. Serve the glazed fish over a bed of the wilted cress.

54.

Garlic-Ginger Shrimp

Fast and fragrant; you can save time by using the tip of a teaspoon to peel the ginger and a microplane to grate it.

Cook some grated or minced ginger and garlic in a couple of tablespoons of vegetable oil. Add a pound of shrimp to the pan, along with one-quarter cup of rice or dry white wine; cook until the shrimp turn pink on both sides and are no longer translucent, about three minutes. Add chopped scallions, toss, and serve over noodles.

55.

Mark’s Famous Spicy Shrimp

The best “bring-to-the-grill-party” dish ever, in my humble opinion; I’ve been doing it for 25 years.

Use the side of a knife, a small food processor, or a mortar and pestle to make a paste from a couple of minced garlic cloves, salt, a pinch or two of cayenne, and about a tablespoon each of good paprika or pimentón, olive oil, and lemon juice. Smear the paste all over a pound or so of shrimp. Grill or broil the shrimp for about two minutes on each side and serve with lemon wedges.

56.

Shrimp with Asparagus, Dill, and Spice

Dried dill works just fine here.

Melt a few tablespoons of butter in a skillet; when it’s hot, add about a pound of sliced asparagus; stir and cook until crisp-tender, about five minutes, then remove. Add some more butter to the pan and repeat with about a pound of shrimp, cooking until it turns pink, about four minutes. Return the asparagus to the pan and sprinkle with a few drops of Tabasco sauce, Worcestershire sauce, dill, and lemon juice. Serve over a bed of jasmine rice.

57.

Seared Scallops with White Wine and Chile

A handful of toasted breadcrumbs or slivered blanched almonds makes a nice garnish.

Slice scallops in half along their flat side. Soften some minced garlic and a chopped seeded chile in olive oil for about two minutes and remove. Sear the scallops, turning once. Remove the scallops from the pan and add about a half cup of white wine to the pan along with the garlic and chile mixture, and reduce quickly over high heat. Serve the scallops over pasta, rice, or toasted bread drizzled with the wine reduction (and a bit of good-quality olive oil if needed). Garnish with chopped parsley.

58.

Scallops with Sesame Seeds and Scallions

Toast sesame seeds in a dry skillet for just a minute or two: they’re done when fragrant and golden. Remove. Then heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in the skillet and add the scallops, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook for two minutes or until lightly browned and opaque inside; set aside. Turn the heat up and add one-half stick of butter and one-half cup of dry white wine; continue stirring, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan and reducing until the sauce is thickened a bit. Add some chopped scallions and a splash of soy sauce and cook for another 30 seconds. Serve the scallops drizzled with the sauce and garnished with the toasted sesame seeds.

59.

Mussels with Green Curry and Cellophane Noodles

Canned coconut milk is a wonderful thing, and the light versions, which are lower in fat, do just fine here.

Cover the noodles with boiling water and set aside. In a large pot, combine one-quarter cup water, the rind and juice of a lime, a teaspoon or so of sugar, a couple of tablespoons of green curry paste (or to taste), a splash of fish sauce, a can of coconut milk, and two to four pounds of mussels; bring to a boil. Cover and cook for about five minutes or until all the shells are open; discard any that don’t open. Stir in a handful of chopped cilantro. Drain the noodles and serve the mussels and sauce on top.

60.

Chicken with Chilaquiles and Green Salsa

Store-bought green salsa is OK, but homemade takes just a couple of minutes.

Puree about a dozen tomatillos (canned are fine) with a large clove of garlic, a handful of fresh cilantro, lime juice, salt, and fresh chile to taste. Stir together a cup of sour cream with just enough milk so it can be poured. Bring a cup or so of the salsa to a boil over medium heat. Add a few handfuls of shredded chicken (leftover or from a store-bought rotisserie chicken), season with salt and pepper, and cook until the chicken is warmed through. Add a few handfuls of tortilla chips and let them soften for about a minute. Serve in bowls garnished with cilantro and more tortilla chips, and drizzled with the sour cream mixture. Pass any leftover salsa around the table.

61.

Chicken Tandoori

Perfect for skewers.

Heat the grill or broiler. In a bowl or dish large enough to hold the chicken, combine a cup of plain yogurt, a teaspoon each minced ginger and garlic, a teaspoon of paprika, a teaspoon cumin, a half teaspoon turmeric, the juice of a lime, and some salt and pepper. Marinate a pound of boneless, skinless chicken in this mixture for about five minutes. Grill or broil the chicken for about three minutes per side or until lightly browned and cooked through. Garnish with fresh cilantro and serve with basmati rice.

62.

Mediterranean Chicken

If you can find preserved lemons, a staple in Moroccan cooking, add some with the parsley.

Pound chicken breasts to one-quarter-inch thickness; sprinkle with salt and pepper and dredge in flour. Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat and brown the chicken on both sides, about a minute per side, then remove. Stir a small handful of brine-cured green olives into the pan, along with a tablespoon of capers. Add a cup of chicken stock or white wine and bring to a boil; continue cooking over high heat until the liquid is reduced and syrupy, about four minutes. Finish with a couple of tablespoons of butter and chopped parsley and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Return the chicken to the sauce to heat through, then serve sprinkled with more chopped parsley.

63.

Spicy Chicken with Lemongrass and Lime

If you can find galangal (not always easy), it’s a fun change from the ginger.

In a food processor, puree half an onion, a clove of garlic, a chunk of peeled ginger, the tender core from a stalk of lemongrass, a pinch of red chile flakes (or more if you like), and a teaspoon each of turmeric, sugar, and ground coriander, until a thick paste forms. Heat a couple of tablespoons of vegetable oil in a skillet; sear pounded chicken cutlets or tenders on both sides until brown. Remove the chicken from the pan and set aside; add the paste to the pan and cook for about two minutes. Return the chicken tenders to the pan and add half a cup of water or chicken stock; cover and simmer about four minutes. Serve the chicken with the sauce.

64.

Panko Chicken with Grapefruit-Honey Sauce

The sweetness of the honey, acidity of the grapefruit, and crunch of the panko really make this special.

Pound chicken breasts to one-quarter-inch thickness; dredge them first in a beaten egg and then in panko breadcrumbs seasoned with salt and pepper. Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil; cook the chicken on both sides until golden and just done, about four minutes total. Wipe the pan clean and soften some minced garlic for a minute in some more oil or butter; add half a cup of grapefruit juice and a tablespoon or so of honey. Season with salt and pepper and reduce until syrupy. Serve the chicken generously drizzled with the sauce and garnished with fresh grapefruit slices.

65.

Pan-Fried Herbed Chicken

Fresh herbs are the key here.

In a food processor, combine a small onion, two cloves of garlic, a tablespoon each of tarragon and sage, the juice of a lemon, a tablespoon of tahini or peanut butter, and a quarter cup of olive oil; puree until smooth. Rub the pureed mixture over boneless, skinless chicken pounded to half-inch thickness; dredge in flour. Fry the chicken in hot olive oil for about four minutes on each side, until well browned and cooked through. Serve over a mixed green salad with fresh lemon wedges on the side.

66.

Chicken with Green Olives

Good-quality European olives (think Greek or Spanish) are what you want here.

Pound chicken breasts to one-quarter-inch thickness. Heat a couple of tablespoons of butter or olive oil in a skillet and sear the chicken on both sides, about a minute per side; remove and set aside. Add to the pan half a diced onion, a teaspoon of minced or grated ginger, some minced garlic, and a half teaspoon each of ground cinnamon, cumin, and paprika. Cook until the onion softens, about three minutes. Add a half cup of chicken stock to the pan and bring to a boil; reduce to a simmer and return the chicken to the pan along with a handful of green olives, pitted and chopped. Continue cooking until the chicken is done, about two more minutes. Serve the chicken topped with the olives and drizzled with the sauce.

67.

Chicken with Almonds and Spinach

A microwave comes in handy here to steam the spinach and save dirtying an extra pan.

Wash and chop a bunch of spinach and steam it; set aside. Pound chicken cutlets to about one-quarter-inch thickness; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Melt a couple of tablespoons of butter over medium-high heat and sear the chicken on each side until golden brown, about a minute per side. Add a couple of large minced cloves of garlic and arrange the steamed spinach and a handful of chopped almonds around the chicken, drizzling with more olive oil if you like; cover and cook for another minute or so until the chicken is done and everything is warmed through.

68.

Lemon Parmesan Chicken

Utterly simple yet sublime.

In a bowl, combine the grated rind from a large lemon, a cup of breadcrumbs (homemade are ideal), about a quarter cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, chopped fresh parsley, and some salt and pepper. Pound chicken cutlets to about a quarter-inch thickness; dredge in a beaten egg and the breadcrumb mixture. Cook the crusted cutlets in a couple of tablespoons of butter or olive oil over medium-high heat until golden on both sides and cooked through. Serve with lemon slices.

69.

Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce

Homemade peanut sauce takes less than five minutes to make.

Pound chicken breasts to half-inch thickness and slice them into four-inch pieces. In a bowl, combine the juice from one lime with a smashed clove of garlic; add the chicken and let it marinate for five minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together a half cup of peanut butter, a couple of tablespoons of freshly squeezed lime juice, a splash of soy sauce, a pinch or two of red chile flakes, a teaspoon of brown sugar, and enough chicken broth or water to make a smooth sauce; adjust the seasoning. Set aside most of the sauce for dipping and smear the rest on the chicken pieces with a little salt and pepper, thread onto skewers, and grill for two minutes on each side or until cooked through. Serve with the reserved peanut sauce and lime wedges.

70.

Chicken with Coconut and Lime

You might thread the chicken onto skewers, then serve the coconut-lime mixture as a dipping sauce.

Heat the broiler. Cut boneless, skinless chicken into four-inch pieces and toss with the juice of a lime. Heat a can of coconut milk along with a pinch of cayenne, the zest of two limes, and the juice of the other lime. Broil the chicken for about six minutes, turning once, until browned and cooked through. Add about a teaspoon of fish sauce to the coconut milk and season with salt and pepper. Serve the sauce over the chicken and top with chopped scallions and sprinkled with freshly chopped cilantro.

71.

Moroccan Spiced Chicken with Yogurt Sauce

A bed of couscous completes this Moroccan-inspired meal.

Heat the broiler or a grill pan. Rub thin chicken breasts with a mixture of ground cumin, coriander, cayenne, cinnamon, salt, and pepper. Cook the chicken until nicely browned and done, turning once, six to eight minutes total. Mix a cup or so of plain yogurt with a couple of tablespoons of freshly squeezed lemon juice, some chopped fresh mint, and salt to taste. Serve the spice-rubbed chicken with the yogurt sauce and top with more mint and a slice of lemon.

72.

Vietnamese Caramelized Grilled Pork

This caramel sauce does wonders for shrimp as well; just thread the shrimp on skewers, drizzle with the sauce, and grill.

Pound boneless pork chops to quarter-inch thickness and heat the grill or broiler. In a small, heavy saucepan, combine half a cup of sugar with two tablespoons of water and stir with some grated ginger to make a paste; cook, undisturbed, over medium heat until it turns golden. Add a couple of finely diced shallots, a tablespoon each fresh lime juice and fish sauce, and a pinch of salt (at this point the caramel will harden); continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the caramel dissolves and the shallots are soft, about two minutes. Put the pork on the grill and brush with sauce, turning frequently until the chops are just cooked through.

73.

Beef and Corn Tacos

Unless corn is already in season, this is a good time to go with frozen.

Cook a chopped onion and a diced jalapeño pepper for a couple of minutes, until the onion starts to soften. Add a teaspoon each of chili powder and cumin (or more to taste) and cook for another 30 seconds. Add a pound or so of ground beef to the pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook through, about four minutes. Meanwhile, chop a tomato and an avocado; grate a cup or so of Jack or cheddar cheese. Add a few handfuls of corn to the meat mixture and continue to cook. Warm corn or flour tortillas and serve by wrapping some of the beef-corn mixture and the other fresh ingredients in each tortilla. Garnish with fresh cilantro and sour cream.

74.

Broiled Steak with Fennel and Shallots

Fennel fronds make a lovely garnish.

Heat the broiler. Trim and slice a fennel bulb into about six wedges (save the fronds for later) and a few shallots into halves or wedges; toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Put the vegetables on one side of a broiler-safe pan; sprinkle one or two three-quarter-inch-thick boneless rib eye steaks with salt and pepper and put them on the other side of the pan. Broil for six to eight minutes, turning the steaks and vegetables halfway through cooking. Serve the steaks topped with the vegetables.

75.

Carne Cruda

A rare treat (OK, pun intended).

Cut a pound of filet mignon into quarter-inch cubes and combine in a bowl with a handful each of arugula and parsley, about one-quarter cup of olive oil, and a few tablespoons of freshly squeezed lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and more lemon juice if needed. Serve with crusty bread.

76.

Steak with Butter and Ginger

Use more ginger here if you like.

Sprinkle one or two three-quarter-inch-thick boneless rib eyes with salt and pepper and sear the steaks in a hot skillet for about two minutes on each side; set aside. Add a couple of tablespoons of butter to the pan to melt; add about a tablespoon of fresh minced or grated ginger, a splash of soy sauce, and a bit of water (to keep the soy from burning); cook for about 30 seconds. Return the steaks to the pan and cook for another few minutes on each side, until done the way you like. Spoon the ginger sauce over the meat, and garnish with fresh cilantro.

77.

Stuffed Burgers

Try this with some sautéed mushrooms on top.

Season a pound or so of ground beef with a good pinch of dill (a handful if it’s fresh), salt, and pepper; form the meat into patties (two patties per burger, so make them on the thin side). Put a slice of tomato and some cheese (Gruyère, cheddar, blue, whatever) on one patty and then use a second patty to cover the stuffing—making a sandwich of the patties. Pinch the sides of the burgers together to seal them. Cook the burgers on a hot grill, on a grill pan, or under the broiler, turning them once, until done.

78.

Lamb Kibbe

Pine nuts and breadcrumbs replace bulgur for a nice twist on this Middle Eastern–style dish.

In a food processor, blend a handful of toasted pine nuts, about a cup of breadcrumbs, a half teaspoon of allspice, a teaspoon of cumin, and half a diced onion until everything reaches an even, grainy consistency. Combine this mixture in a bowl with about a pound of ground lamb and a couple of tablespoons of olive oil; form into golf-ball-size balls and flatten a bit into patties. Fry each patty for about three minutes per side, or until crisp and cooked through. Serve with pita bread, shredded lettuce, plain yogurt, and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

79.

Lamb “Gyro”

Great using chicken, too.

Cut lamb (preferably shoulder; leg is OK) into two-inch chunks. In a large bowl, combine a teaspoon each dried thyme, and ground cumin and coriander; a tablespoon of minced garlic; and a pinch of red chile flakes. Add the lamb and toss to coat well. Sear the lamb pieces in olive oil until browned on all sides. In a separate pan, cook a sliced onion and a sliced red pepper in olive oil, until just soft. Serve the lamb with the onions and pepper in a pita (or wrapped in fresh lavash bread) with a dash of hot sauce, topped with plain yogurt.

80.

Spring Lamb

Israeli couscous takes longer to cook but makes a nice change if you have the time.

Heat the broiler. Puree together a handful each of fresh mint and basil, a clove of garlic, a teaspoon of cumin, a pinch of cinnamon, and a few tablespoons of olive oil to make a paste. Sprinkle salt and pepper on lamb steaks (from leg or shoulder), pound to half-inch thickness, and coat with the herb paste. Broil the steaks, turning once, until done, about eight minutes. In the meantime, mix a cup of plain yogurt with half a diced red onion and chopped cucumber. Serve the lamb over couscous; top with the yogurt mixture.

81.

Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets

Classic, and perfect served with greens cooked in lots of garlic.

Season veal cutlets with salt and pepper; dredge the cutlets in flour, beaten egg, and breadcrumbs. Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a large pan and fry the cutlets over high heat, turning once, until golden and cooked through, about three minutes. Serve with lemon wedges and chopped parsley.

82.

Orzo “Risotto” with Chives

Use this technique for any herb or vegetable.

Heat a mixture of butter and olive oil until foamy; stir in a handful or two of chopped chives and some salt and pepper and cook until the herbs are softened and fragrant. Now stir in a pound of orzo and keep cooking and stirring until it begins to get translucent. Stir in chicken stock (or water), a ladleful at a time, waiting for the pan to get almost dry before adding another. Repeat until the pasta is al dente and most of the liquid is absorbed, about eight minutes. Add butter, grated Parmesan cheese, and enough stock to reach the consistency you like. Serve, passing more cheese at the table.

83.

Pasta with Anchovies and Breadcrumbs

Fresh breadcrumbs (as usual) are superior to store-bought, with more flavor and better texture.

Boil and salt water for pasta, and cook it. Meanwhile, heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in a pan and lightly toast a cup or so of breadcrumbs until just golden; set aside. Heat a bit more oil and add a pinch of red chile flakes and a few drained, chopped anchovies (the kind marinated in oil and packed in glass) and cook for a minute or so, smashing up the anchovies with a fork as they cook. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the anchovy mix and toss, adding pasta water as needed to moisten the mixture into a sauce. Add the toasted breadcrumbs and—optionally—freshly grated Parmesan.

84.

Pasta with Moroccan Tapenade

European tuna, packed in oil, is essential here.

Boil and salt water for pasta, and cook it. Meanwhile, in a food processor, combine a couple of handfuls of pitted green olives, a few tablespoons of capers, a drained can of tuna, a couple of cloves of garlic, a teaspoon cumin, freshly ground black pepper to taste, and olive oil as necessary to get a coarse paste. Put the tapenade in a bowl; drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the tapenade, tossing to coat; add pasta water or olive oil as needed to make a sauce.

85.

Pasta Carbonara

Pancetta, guanciale, or bacon will do the trick equally well here.

Boil and salt water for pasta, and cook it. Meanwhile, cut about a quarter pound of pancetta into small pieces and fry in a bit of olive oil until golden. In a bowl large enough to hold the pasta, beat together three eggs, about a half cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, and the meat. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Toss the pasta quickly with the egg mixture to combine (the heat from the pasta will cook the eggs); add a few tablespoons of pasta water if needed to moisten. Season with salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper; garnish with chopped parsley and more Parmesan to taste.

86.

Pasta with Lemon Sauce

You might toss in a few shrimp or scallops, or add a couple handfuls of steamed asparagus tips or peas.

Boil and salt water for pasta, and cook it. Meanwhile, in a large pan, combine a half stick of butter, a half cup of cream, and a quarter cup of freshly squeezed lemon juice. When the butter melts, remove the pan from the heat and set aside. Drain the pasta and add it to the reserved lemon sauce and toss. Add a few teaspoons of grated lemon zest and freshly grated Parmesan. Garnish with chopped parsley or chives and serve.

87.

Arugula and Prosciutto Pasta

Other greens can also be used here as long as they’re tender enough to wilt quickly when mixed with the pasta.

Boil and salt water for pasta, and cook it. Meanwhile, sear a few pieces of prosciutto, chopped, until crisp, about two minutes. In a large bowl, mix together about one-half cup crumbled goat cheese, two cups of chopped arugula, and a few tablespoons of olive oil. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the hot pasta to the bowl, wilting the arugula and coating the noodles with the cheese and oil; add pasta water as needed to moisten. Season with salt and pepper and crumble the prosciutto over the top of the pasta to serve.

88.

Rice Noodles with Cilantro Pesto

A little nod to fusion cuisine.

Soak rice vermicelli in boiling water to cover. In a food processor, puree two large handfuls of cilantro, the juice of a lime, a few tablespoons of olive oil, a slice of soft butter, salt, and pepper. Toast a handful of peanuts in a skillet lightly until fragrant and just golden. Drain the noodles and toss with the cilantro pesto; garnish with the toasted nuts.

89.

Shrimp Pad Thai

Use leftover chicken instead of shrimp if you like; just toss it in with the noodles at the end.

Boil and salt water for pasta and cook a pound of wide rice noodles (they take only a couple of minutes); drain, rinse, and set aside in a bowl of cold water. Dice a couple of green onions and a clove of garlic. In a small bowl, combine a tablespoon of sugar, a few tablespoons of fish sauce, a pinch or two of red chile flakes, and a couple of tablespoons of sesame oil. In a tablespoon or two of vegetable oil, cook a handful of shrimp until just cooked; set aside. Add a bit more oil to the pan and scramble two eggs. Add the shrimp, drained noodles, garlic, onions, a handful of bean sprouts, and the sugar mixture to the pan and cook until warmed through. Sprinkle with chopped peanuts and serve.

90.

Udon Noodles with Seafood and Soy-Lemon Sauce

Udon and soba both work equally well here.

Cook the udon noodles; drain, saving some of the cooking water. Cook about a pound of peeled shrimp or firm white fish in a little sesame oil until just opaque. Stir in about one-quarter cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, a couple of tablespoons of soy sauce, a tablespoon grated ginger, and a minced garlic clove. Add the noodles and enough cooking liquid to make a sauce. Sprinkle the noodles with a pinch of red chile flakes and fresh cilantro.

91.

Cheesy Semolina with Asparagus

Like polenta, only faster.

Bring two cups salted water to a boil with one-half cup milk. Meanwhile, thinly slice a bunch of asparagus spears on the diagonal. When the water boils, whisk in one cup semolina and a pat of butter, cooking and stirring for three minutes; then add the asparagus and some grated Parmesan. Cover and set aside for a few minutes, until the vegetables are crisp-tender. Give a good stir and serve, garnished with more cheese, some chopped mint, and lots of freshly ground black pepper.

92.

Herbed Fresh Cheese Patties

Lovely over a bed of greens.

Dice half an onion and cook it in a tablespoon or so of olive oil until just soft. Using doubled cheesecloth, squeeze all the moisture out of two cups of ricotta or cottage cheese; combine the cheese, the onion, a beaten egg, half a cup of breadcrumbs, and a handful of chopped mixed herbs (chervil, basil, dill, and mint, or any combination you like), salt, and pepper in a bowl. Form the mixture into small patties—about three inches wide—and fry over medium-high heat in the same skillet you used for the onion until brown, turning once and adding more olive oil if needed, about six minutes total.

93.

Deconstructed Raspberry Soufflés

Heat the oven to 400°F. Whip four egg whites and one teaspoon lemon zest until stiff peaks form. Toss two cups of fresh raspberries with two tablespoons brown sugar. Spoon raspberries into individual ramekins, top with a scoop of the whipped egg white, and sprinkle each with a teaspoon of slivered almonds if you like. Bake until tops are just golden, about eight minutes.

94.

Rose Water Whipped Cream with Honeydew

Just a little rose water works wonders.

Whip a cup of heavy cream with a few drops of rose water and a tablespoon of honey until thick. Cut a honeydew melon in half, scoop out the seeds, and slice into individual servings; serve each slice of melon with a dollop of the flavored whipped cream on top.

95.

Grilled Angel Food Cake with Fruit Salsa

Obviously, homemade angel food is best, but store-bought can be good enough here.

Mix a cup of pitted halved cherries, a chopped mango, and two chopped peaches in a bowl with a quarter cup of sugar, a half teaspoon of cinnamon, juice from half a lemon, and the zest of the lemon. Smear slices of angel food cake with a little soft butter and grill each slice for about three minutes per side. Serve the fruit salsa over the angel food cake; garnish with chopped mint.

96.

Banana Ginger Granita

This takes only a couple of minutes to make, but you do have to remember to freeze bananas in advance.

Put two fresh ripe frozen bananas, cut into two-inch pieces, in a food processor. Add two tablespoons of ginger ale or ginger beer and one-quarter cup crushed ice; pulse the mixture until smooth and serve, garnished with a grating of fresh ginger on top.

97.

Macerated Strawberries with Mascarpone

Any orange-flavored liqueur works here.

In a bowl, mix together a quart of hulled, quartered strawberries, a couple of tablespoons of sugar, one-quarter cup Cointreau, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and lemon zest; let sit for five minutes or so. Serve in small bowls topped with a bit of mascarpone and good biscotti or any other crunchy cookie.

98.

Broiled Bananas

Keep an eye on these as they cook; they can go quickly from golden to overdone.

Heat the broiler and lightly butter a baking dish. Peel four bananas, cut them in half lengthwise, and arrange them on the dish. Dot the bananas with butter and sprinkle with brown sugar; broil about six inches from the flame until lightly browned, about five minutes. Serve hot, sprinkled with lemon or lime juice.

99.

Bittersweet Chocolate Crepes with Smashed Fruit

Crepes should be set and cooked through, but not crisp; keep in mind that the first crepe almost never works.

In a blender, mix together one cup of flour, one-half cup cocoa powder, two eggs, one and one-half cups milk, one teaspoon vanilla extract, two tablespoons sugar, and two tablespoons melted butter; scrape down the sides until the mixture is smooth. Warm a bit of butter in a nonstick pan and ladle a thin coating of batter into the pan; swirl it around so it forms a thin layer on the bottom of the pan. Cook about 15 seconds or until the top looks dry; flip and cook 15 to 30 seconds more; repeat. Top with fresh smashed strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, or bananas.

100.

Chocolate Mousse

For a fruit mousse, substitute four ounces of pureed raspberries for the melted chocolate.

In a pan or in the microwave on low, melt two tablespoons of butter with four ounces of bittersweet or semisweet chocolate; set aside. Beat a cup of heavy cream with two tablespoons of sugar and a half teaspoon of vanilla until soft peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the chocolate gently and stir until just combined; spoon the mousse into dishes, grate some chocolate on top if you like, and serve.

101.

Chocolate Hot Toddy

Serve with biscotti.

For each serving, melt one or two squares of semisweet chocolate in a cup and a half of milk, being sure not to bring the milk to a boil. Once the chocolate is melted, pour the milk into mugs and add a bit of dark rum or whiskey. Whipped cream is optional.