THE KITCHEN EXPRESS PANTRY

Over the years, I’ve cooked substantial meals in the tiniest, most poorly equipped kitchens—even non-kitchens—that you can imagine. So I can say with the utmost confidence that the size of your larder is less important than how you stock it. It’s equally true that the more you cook—and the more varied your recipe repertoire—the deeper your pantry will be, as you collect a range of global ingredients that reflect the way you like to eat.

Since this book assumes you’re an enthusiastic cook, it also assumes you already have a well-stocked pantry. What follows, then, are specific lists of the foods you should keep handy if you want to cook in the style I’m outlining here.

Must your pantry contain these exact staples? Of course not. You will naturally gravitate toward the flavors and ingredients you prefer, and I’ve noted the cases that reflect some of these potential preferences. But cooking at home becomes exponentially easier, faster, and more spontaneous when you have basic foods at arm’s reach.

In the Cupboard

These are all shelf-stable products that should be stored at room temperature (cool room temperature is best, though obviously not always possible), preferably in the dark (or at least out of direct sunlight). This list starts with the ones you’re likely to use most, and I’ve noted the semi-perishable foods to consider freezing or refrigerating if you don’t go through them fast. In general, replace anything else on this list every year or so.

Oils: Extra-virgin olive oil, and at least one vegetable oil (I like grapeseed or peanut oil) for when you want something neutral for Asian cooking or at other times when olive oil is too strong. Sesame oil is nice for drizzling, and a little goes a long way. Choose high-quality, minimally processed oils for the purest flavors; and if you don’t go through them very fast, store the bottles in the fridge.

Vinegars: Sherry vinegar (which is higher in acidity than other types) is my favorite, though a good white wine vinegar is also useful. Balsamic and rice vinegars have no replacements, and with their relatively low acidity they work more like condiments than stronger vinegars.

Sauces: Soy, hot pepper, nam pla (Thai fish sauce), hoisin sauce, and maybe Worcestershire sauce are the only ones you need. If you don’t make your own salsa or barbecue sauce, then maybe you want good-quality store-bought bottles of these on hand, too.

Condiments: Mustard (maybe more than one kind), ketchup, and mayonnaise (again, if you don’t make your own). Though I’m not a fan of vinegary pickles and relishes, a lot of people are. And capers are endlessly useful. Once all these condiments are open, store them in the fridge if you’re worried about leaving them at room temperature for long.

Canned Tomatoes and Paste: Whole plum tomatoes are better than diced. Just break them up with your hands right in the can and pull out the tough core; or take them out and roughly chop as you would a fresh tomato. If you don’t need the juice, refrigerate it to drink or use later. The handiest way to buy tomato paste is in tubes, but if you can’t find it that way, small cans or jars are fine. When I say “a can of tomatoes” I mean the standard-size can (which runs about 15 ounces), unless a large (28-ounce) can or other quantity is specified.

Stock: This is a tough one because premade stock is not a tenth as good as even the fastest batch you can whip up yourself; but it’s undeniably convenient. So if you find a brand you can tolerate, keep it on hand. Water is a good substitute in most cases, and I rely on it more and more.

Rice: White long-grain rice can be ready in 20 minutes; short-grain is a little faster. Brown rice takes about twice as long. But the good news about all of these (as well as the grains that follow) is that once cooked, they keep in the fridge for several days and reheat well in the microwave. So cooking in bulk ahead of time is an option, too.

Quick-Cooking Grains: White or whole wheat couscous (which is actually a pasta) and bulgur require only steeping. If you’re willing to wait 20 to 30 minutes for grains to get tender, you might want to try steel-cut oats, cracked wheat, kasha, or quinoa.

Pasta: Like rice, pasta can be ready by the time the main recipe is. Include enough time to bring a pot of water to a boil (putting a lid on it really helps speed things up). Keep long strands or cut noodles handy—whatever you like. The thinner the pasta, though, the quicker the cooking time, so if you’re really pressed, think angel hair.

Asian Noodles: Rice sticks, rice vermicelli, and bean threads (sometimes called glass noodles) all get tender after 10 minutes or so of soaking in hot water. Soba, somen, udon, and dried Chinese egg noodles require cooking but generally take less time than Italian pasta; the fresh kinds take only a minute or two.

Beans: Chickpeas, cannellini, pinto, and black beans. Canned beans are one solution, since you obviously can’t cook dried beans in less than 20 minutes (though lentils and split peas almost make the cut). But if you cook a pot of lightly seasoned dried beans, then freeze them in small portions along with some of the cooking liquid, you can essentially stock your own “canned” beans. Only these will be infinitely better. (When I say “a can of beans” I mean the standard can, about 15 ounces, which equals about two cups.)

Crackers, Croutons, and Breadcrumbs: Preferably homemade. Tightly sealed, they’ll keep longer than you think. Panko breadcrumbs are my favorite store-bought variety because they’re big and crunchy.

Flours: For the cooking in this book, you generally won’t need more than small quantities of white flour—usually for dredging—or sometimes cornmeal. If you don’t bake regularly, refrigerate or freeze flours in tightly sealed containers or bags.

Dried Fruit, Including Dried Tomatoes: They keep so well, don’t take up much room, and quickly add heft, flavor, and nutrition to many pasta, meat, and poultry dishes.

Chocolate, Nuts, and Seeds: Not just for snacking, but for cooking too. Almonds, hazelnuts, and peanuts are basic, as are sesame, pumpkin, or sunflower seeds; shredded unsweetened coconut is also useful. Keep them in the freezer if you don’t use them within a month. For chocolate I generally stick to bittersweet with a high percentage of cacao. Unsweetened cocoa powder is nice to have around, and it keeps forever, too.

Onions, Shallots, Garlic, and Ginger: The so-called aromatic vegetables. Keep them at room temperature as long as possible, then move them to the fridge if they start to shrivel. If you want to keep a knob of ginger for a long time, wrap it well and freeze it, or trim off any rough spots and drop it into a small jar of vodka, close the lid, and store it in the fridge.

Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes: You won’t have time to bake or roast them with the recipes here, but they cook fast if you cut them small or grate them.

Canned Fish: Oil-packed chunk light tuna is what I recommend for the dishes in this book. It also wouldn’t hurt to keep a can each of whole sardines and anchovies and good-quality Alaskan salmon on hand.

Canned Vegetables: None—with the sole exceptions of chiles, like chipotle in adobo sauce, roasted green chiles, or roasted red peppers.

Salt and Pepper: Kosher salt rather than iodized table salt. (Good sea salt, like fleur de sel, is also handy; use it as a condiment.) Whole peppercorns to grind as you use them are a must. If you haven’t done so already, invest in a good grinder; you’ll notice the difference immediately.

Spices: You can’t have too many, but start with cumin, mustard, saffron, cinnamon, coriander, dried chiles, and blends like curry and chili powders. I try to toast and grind my own, but it’s not always practical; buy ground when necessary.

Herbs: Few dried herbs are worth the price, but oregano, thyme, rosemary, dill, and tarragon can be useful. I shop at Penzey’s (www.penzeys.com) for dried herbs and spices.

On the Counter

A Big Bowl of Fresh Stuff: Seasonal fruit, including tomatoes. Vegetables that don’t require refrigeration, like chiles, avocados, and squashes.

Bread: A crusty loaf, a package of pita, or whole wheat or rye sandwich bread.

In the Fridge

Bacon and/or Pancetta: Buy the good stuff in small quantities, either thick-cut or in chunks or slabs. These cured meats keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge; months if you wrap them well and freeze them.

Smoked Ham and/or Prosciutto: Ditto here; when you want thin slices (which you will), just slice your own from larger pieces.

Fresh Meat, Fish, or Poultry: If you shop every few days (or more often) chances are you have something in the fridge for dinner tonight. See the section on substitutions for ideas about how to work what you’ve got into the dishes described in the book.

These days, cooking with seafood warrants a special mention. If you want to choose species that are fished or farmed sustainably—and you should—or if you’re worried about mercury or other contaminants, then you have to do a little research, and not just once but on an ongoing basis. I suggest using the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s “Seafood Watch” (www.montereybayquarium.org). The list and its rankings change frequently, and though I don’t consider it perfect, this organization provides the most reliable and accessible tool for helping you make informed decisions.

The recipes here are designed to be flexible, so I usually call simply for “fish” and provide some guidance if necessary in the headnote. The exceptions are when I call for salmon (use wild if at all possible), scallops, tuna (not bluefin), sardines and anchovies, clams or mussels, crab, squid, lobster, and shrimp (again, wild), for which tasty, safe, and sustainable options are readily available, and substitutions are a little trickier.

Leftover Cooked Meat, Fish, or Poultry: These increase your options, as do cooked deli meats like roast beef, corned beef, rotisserie chicken, and turkey. All of these have a life beyond sandwiches, as some of these recipes suggest.

Eggs: Essential.

Cheese and Dairy: Parmesan—the real stuff, from Italy—is a must, and keeps for months as long as you buy it in chunks, not pre-grated. Other cheeses: sharp cheddar, Gruyère or another nutty melting cheese, and something fresh like mozzarella, feta, goat cheese, or queso fresco. For cooking, half-and-half or heavy cream is more useful than milk, but if you drink milk you already have it around, so that’s fine. Butter: unsalted, please. And sour cream and/or yogurt: At least occasionally, I prefer the full-fat kinds.

Long-Keeping Vegetables: Carrots, celery, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, eggplant, string beans, and summer squashes all keep for at least a week and are available virtually all year long. I also try to keep some fresh greens in the house for salads or stir-fries.

Long-Keeping Fruit: Lemons, always. Limes are nice for a change and virtually interchangeable with lemons. Oranges and grapefruit in the winter; apples and pineapples when they’re good.

Olives: Pick your favorite kinds; they’re virtually interchangeable.

Miso: Keeps forever and can produce a complex-tasting stock, sauce, dressing, or marinade in minutes. White is the mildest, red is the strongest, and brown (made with rice or barley) falls somewhere in between.

Fresh Herbs: Tricky. They can be expensive, and they have a short shelf life, but they’re invaluable in quick-cooking dishes. So I suggest you always have a bunch of parsley in the fridge. Beyond that, pick, say, one or two fresh herbs—oregano, sage, basil, chives, rosemary, cilantro, whatever—to buy each week. All fresh herbs store best like flowers in a little jar of water. Cover the tops loosely with a plastic bag and pluck leaves or stems as you need them.

In the Freezer

Meat and Poultry: Ground meat, chops, steaks, cutlets, and chicken parts all do well in the freezer provided they’re well wrapped to prevent freezer burn. (The only problem is that you’ve got to plan in advance before using them.) It’s safest to thaw animal foods in the refrigerator, but this process can take a couple of days. Your second choice is to soak the food in cold water. (The microwave does not thaw properly.) Fish doesn’t keep well in most home freezers.

Frozen Vegetables: No apologies. I’m a fan of frozen peas, edamame, and other fresh beans (like lima, fava, or black-eyed peas). Frozen corn kernels, spinach, and hearty greens like mustard or collards, rutabagas, and bell peppers are good, too. I don’t bother with carrots or string beans, or anything sauced or seasoned.

Frozen Fruits: These are fine for cooking and smoothies. Frozen raspberries, blackberries, and blueberries are better than frozen strawberries.

A Loaf of Really Good Bread: I keep a couple of baguettes in the freezer all the time. It’s not always possible to monitor the progress of the bread on the counter, and you don’t want to be stuck without any.

Anything You Make Yourself: Tomato sauce, beans, and stock especially. I can’t stress this enough.

Some Simple Substitutions

You can change virtually any recipe in the book according to season and work around whatever ingredients you have on hand (and remember that you can read this list back and forth from left to right or right to left).