Summer
The explosion of universally available fruits and vegetables makes cooking naturally quicker and more varied in summer than it is in other seasons, with the possible exception of fall. And the fact that this produce includes items almost everyone loves—tomatoes, corn, stone fruit, and much more—makes pleasing people easy. Almost as interesting to the cook is the abundance of herbs: These allow you to vary your favorite dishes by doing little more than switching a tablespoon of this for a tablespoon of that.
1.
Blueberry Pancakes
Substitute cornmeal for up to half of the flour, for crunch.
Combine two cups flour, two teaspoons baking powder, one-quarter teaspoon salt, and one tablespoon of sugar. Whisk two eggs with one and one-half cups milk and two tablespoons melted butter. Add wet ingredients to dry; stir to combine (it’s OK if there are some lumps). Cook with butter—make them big or small, your call—scattering blueberries on top of each cake; flip after the batter begins to bubble. Serve however you like.
2.
Muesli with Raspberries
In the winter, try this with dried cherries.
In a large bowl combine rolled oats (not the quick-cooking kind) with a mixture of chopped nuts and seeds; the usual ratio is three parts oats to two parts extras, but do whatever you like. Toss in some shredded coconut, a little brown sugar and cinnamon, and a pinch of salt. Serve with yogurt and fresh raspberries, drizzled with honey. Store the leftovers as you would granola.
3.
Matzo Brei with Cherries
To go savory, skip the maple syrup and add some fresh chopped sage or rosemary and lots of black pepper.
Pit a couple of cups of tart cherries (or use frozen; don’t bother to thaw them). For every egg (or two if you want more egg than cracker), run a sheet of matzo under cold water until it’s barely soft. Fry the damp crackers in lots of butter over medium-high heat, tossing and breaking them up a bit. When they start to crisp up, add the cherries and cook until dry. Then stir in the scrambled eggs with a pinch of salt and cook them until just set. Serve drizzled with maple syrup.
4.
Deviled Eggs with Crab
Buy fresh crabmeat if you can or use chopped cooked shrimp.
Make hard-cooked eggs; meanwhile, combine crabmeat with a spoonful each of Dijon mustard and mayonnaise or yogurt, lemon juice, diced red bell pepper, paprika, and cumin; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Run eggs under cold water, shell and halve them, and mash the yolks into the crab mixture; stuff the whites. Sprinkle the top with chopped parsley (or caviar for that matter).
5.
Tomato, Goat Cheese, and Basil Strata
You can assemble this the night before and refrigerate until you’re ready to bake.
Heat the oven to 400°F. Soften a chopped onion in butter; off heat, stir in chopped fresh tomato, six beaten eggs, a cup fresh shredded basil, a splash of milk or cream, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Top with bread cubes and dollops of goat cheese. Bake until just set, about 20 minutes; put under broiler quickly to brown top if necessary.
6.
Gazpacho
Try peaches or melons instead of tomatoes, or add anchovies for more flavor.
Core and seed ripe, juicy tomatoes and cut into chunks. Peel and seed a cucumber and roughly chop. Peel a clove or two of garlic. Cut the crusts from a couple of thick slices of good white bread and tear them up. Puree everything in a blender with salt, pepper, lots of olive oil, and a splash of sherry vinegar, adding just enough water (or ice) to thin the mixture. Serve garnished with a drizzle of olive oil and chopped basil or mint leaves.
7.
Zucchini and Dill Soup
Add fresh ricotta, sour cream, or yogurt while pureeing, for richness.
Grate a couple of zucchini. Cook a chopped onion in butter until softened, then add the zucchini and stir until softened, five minutes or so. Add vegetable or chicken stock and bring to a boil; simmer for about five minutes, then puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and lots of fresh chopped dill.
8.
Shrimp and Tomato Soup
Amazing with good tomatoes.
Boil one pound of shell-on shrimp in six cups of water until just pink; drain, reserving the liquid. Cook a chopped shallot in some olive oil (you can use the same pot), sprinkle with salt and pepper, and deglaze with a splash of white wine or dry vermouth. Add the reserved liquid and let bubble a bit; peel and chop the shrimp. Cut two or three ripe tomatoes into wedges and add them to the pot, along with the shrimp and chopped fresh tarragon. When just warmed through, serve in shallow bowls.
9.
Melon Soup with Pancetta
Sweet and salty.
Puree the flesh from a cantaloupe or honeydew with lemon juice and a little white wine or water until smooth. Put the soup in the freezer to chill (along with some serving bowls if you like) while you frizzle some thin ribbons of pancetta or prosciutto in a little olive oil. When crisp, add several grinds of black pepper and remove from heat. To serve, put the soup in bowls, and top with ham, chives, salt, and pan drippings.
10.
Avocado Soup with Crab
Lightning-fast luxury; instead of the crab, try cooked shrimp or lobster. Or use tortilla chips, ripe tomato chunks, or crumbled queso fresco.
Puree a couple of ripe avocados with two cups of whole milk and a pinch of salt. Season a mound of fresh lump crabmeat with minced fresh red chiles, chopped cilantro, and a squeeze of lime or orange juice. Serve the soup with a scoop of the crab.
11.
Smoke ’n’ Spice Fish Soup
Almost any seafood works here, as do bits of cooked chicken.
Chop an onion, a carrot, and a couple of celery stalks and cook in olive oil with minced garlic and salt and pepper until soft. Chop as much canned chipotle as you like (for less heat, remove the seeds) and add it to the soup along with some of its sauce (adobo) and six cups of chicken or fish stock (or water). Boil, then lower the heat a bit and add two or three chopped ripe tomatoes. When the mixture boils again, lay a couple white fish fillets in the soup, turn the heat to low, cover, and cook for about five more minutes. Break the fish into large chunks and serve with a dollop of sour cream, chopped cilantro, and warm tortillas.
12.
Charred Tomato Bisque
Good hot or cold.
Heat the broiler. Cut four or six large ripe tomatoes into thin slices and spread them out on a rimmed baking sheet, along with three smashed garlic cloves, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Broil until the tomatoes are beginning to blacken, turning as necessary, about eight minutes total; remove the garlic as soon as it turns golden. Puree everything with a cup of cream and a half-cup of basil leaves. Warm gently in a saucepan or chill for a few minutes in the freezer. Serve with grilled cheese sandwiches or breadsticks.
13.
Migas
Crouton hash, really; in place of the beans, any kind of protein works, from eggs (raw or hard-boiled) to nuts to sliced chorizo.
Cut several slices of old bread into cubes. Heat a film of olive oil in a large skillet and fry the bread, seasoning with salt, pepper, pimentón, and cumin as it cooks. Remove to a large bowl, add a little more oil to the pan if necessary, and cook precooked or canned chickpeas until they’re golden and beginning to crisp. Cut a bunch of Swiss chard into ribbons and add that to the pan. Stir-fry until the greens wilt, then toss the mixture with the bread cubes. Serve with lemon wedges.
14.
Goat Cheese Salad
Serve on a bed of greens, on slices of toasted bread, or on a baked potato.
Mash soft goat cheese with a tiny bit of minced garlic, salt and pepper, chopped fresh mint, thinly sliced red onion, chopped ripe tomato, and olive oil. Add a handful of pine nuts or pistachios if you like.
15.
Panzanella
Chewy and juicy all in one bite.
Cut ciabatta or other good bread into cubes. Chop ripe tomatoes, oil-cured black olives, anchovies, garlic, and capers; combine with red wine vinegar, olive oil, and lots of black pepper. Add the bread, tossing to absorb the dressing. Garnish with fresh chopped basil and shaved Parmesan cheese.
16.
Tuna Tabouleh
Serve on romaine leaves with tomato and yogurt.
Soak about one-half cup of fine-grain bulgur in boiling water to cover. Peel, seed, and chop a cucumber and toss with lots and lots of chopped parsley, scallions, and fresh mint. Squeeze the bulgur dry and add to the cucumber mixture, dressing with lemon juice (again: lots), olive oil, salt, and pepper. Use a fork to add a can or two of good-quality tuna; toss to fluff the salad and serve.
17.
Black Bean and Mango Salad
Super-colorful, and great wrapped in a flour tortilla with shredded lettuce.
Rinse and drain a can of black beans (or use a couple cups of homemade beans) and combine with a diced mango, a chopped red bell pepper, two or three chopped scallions, and some minced fresh chile. Drizzle with olive oil, lime juice, salt, and pepper. Toss with fresh chopped mint or cilantro and serve.
18.
Mexican Dry-Corn Salad
Use frozen corn if you’re feeling lazy.
Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add a small chopped red onion, a couple of cups of corn kernels, and a diced fresh chile; cook and stir until the corn is browned. Mash an avocado with a dollop of sour cream or plain yogurt and a squeeze of fresh lime or lemon juice; add chopped cilantro and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss the avocado mixture with the corn and serve in a bowl with some shredded iceberg lettuce, chopped tomato, and tortilla chips.
19.
Squid Salad with Basil Mayo
Try stuffing this in tomatoes.
Heat a grill or broiler. Toss whole, cleaned squid with olive oil and salt and pepper. Grill or broil for about two minutes on each side or until opaque but still tender. Meanwhile, toss together sliced radishes, chopped red bell pepper, thinly sliced red onion, and a squeeze of lemon; set aside. Finely chop one cup of fresh basil and stir in one-half cup of mayonnaise. When the squid is cool, cut into rings and toss with the radish mixture; serve on salad greens with a dollop of the mayonnaise on top.
20.
Summertime Shrimp Salad
Toss shelled shrimp in olive oil, salt, and pepper, and grill or broil until cooked through. Zest and juice a lemon and combine with olive oil, chopped cilantro, salt, and pepper. Add diced red onion, chopped cucumber, and chunks of ripe peaches, plums, or melon. Serve the shrimp on top or chop it up a bit and mix it right in the salad.
21.
Soba Noodles and Cucumber with Dipping Sauce
Perfect hot-weather food; add a bit of freshly grated ginger or wasabi for more spice and top with bits of cooked meat or tofu if you like.
Boil and salt water for pasta; meanwhile, combine a quarter cup of chicken stock or water, three tablespoons of soy sauce, two tablespoons of mirin, and a teaspoon of sugar in a bowl; mix to dissolve the sugar. Cook the noodles for about four minutes, then rinse under cold water. Serve a nest of the noodles along with sliced cucumbers in a bowl (set over ice cubes if you like), with a small bowl of the dipping sauce on the side, garnished with chopped scallions.
22.
Four-Bean Salad
A great picnic salad, because the beans only get better as they marinate in the dressing.
Cut about a cup of green beans into one-inch pieces and blanch in boiling, salted water until crisp-tender; drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. In a bowl, combine a cup or two each of cooked or canned (drain first) kidney or other red beans, cannellini or other white beans, and chickpeas. Add the green beans, a small, diced red onion, and some chopped parsley or chives. Dress with olive oil, sherry vinegar or some other good strong vinegar, Dijon mustard, salt, and pepper.
23.
Prosciutto, Peach, and Mozzarella Salad
Salty, sweet, creamy, and unbeatable.
For each person, cut a fresh peach into eight wedges. Tear prosciutto and sliced mozzarella into bite-size pieces. Dress mixed greens with olive oil, lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Toss in the peaches, prosciutto, and cheese and serve.
24.
Warm Corn Salad with Ham
Like substantial succotash.
Put a half pound or so of good chopped ham into a hot skillet with a little olive oil and a chopped onion. Brown, stirring once in a while. Add the kernels stripped from four ears of corn, along with a handful of frozen lima or fava beans; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and stir in a splash of wine vinegar and some chopped fresh parsley or sage. Serve with thick tomato slices.
25.
Avocado Crab Salad with Mixed Herb Salad
An impressive, restaurant-style dish.
Whisk together sherry or rice vinegar, Dijon mustard, olive oil, minced shallot, and some salt and pepper. Halve avocados and remove the pits (leave the skin on); cut a thin piece off the bottom of each half so it sits on a plate. Make a salad of fresh herb leaves and sprigs, using chervil, parsley, tarragon, dill, mint, or basil in any combination. Fill each avocado half with lump crabmeat and put a handful of the herbs and a few thin slices of lemon alongside. Drizzle the dressing over all.
26.
Shrimp and Cherry Tomato Salad
Soy sauce is the secret ingredient here.
Stir-fry peeled chopped shrimp and grated ginger in a little sesame oil. Set aside while you halve a pint or two of cherry tomatoes and toss in a salad bowl with a splash of soy sauce. Add the shrimp mixture and a handful of fresh basil (preferably Thai); let rest for a couple of minutes and then serve, with rice crackers.
27.
Arugula with Balsamic Strawberries and Goat Cheese
A surprisingly wonderful salad.
Hull and slice a pint of strawberries and put them in a large salad bowl. Toss with two tablespoons balsamic vinegar and several grinds of black pepper. Let sit for five minutes. Add a bunch of arugula, some crumbled goat cheese, and a sprinkle of salt; drizzle with olive oil, toss, and serve.
28.
Feta and Watermelon Salad
A terrific combination.
Combine watermelon balls (or cubes) in a bowl with crumbled feta cheese, sliced radishes, chopped fresh chives, and a few drops of olive oil; toss well. Spoon over a crisp wedge of iceberg lettuce, making sure to use all the extra juices left in the bottom of the bowl.
29.
Broiled Eggplant with Miso-Walnut Vinaigrette
Toss with soba noodles or serve on a bed of greens.
Heat the broiler. Halve small eggplants lengthwise (or slice large ones) and rub them all over with vegetable oil and salt. While they’re broiling, whisk together some miso, chopped walnuts, soy sauce, and rice vinegar. Cook the eggplant until it’s browned and soft, then remove to a platter and pour the dressing over all. Garnish with chopped scallions.
30.
Duck Wraps with Plums
Fresh fruit updates Peking duck.
Buy roast duck and take the meat off the bones. Cut several ripe plums into wedges. Heat vegetable oil in a skillet and add some thinly sliced leeks (the white part only). When soft, add the duck and stir-fry for a minute or two, then add the plums, cooking and stirring until they’re just warmed through. Roll in small flour tortillas or lettuce leaves, and serve with hoisin sauce for dipping.
31.
Summer Rolls with Barbecued Pork
An excellent use for any leftover meat or seafood.
Shred the pork and toss with a splash of fish sauce, some chiles, a squeeze of lime, and some chopped mint. Dip a sheet of rice paper into a bowl of hot water for about two seconds. Turn it and dip the piece you were holding in the water; lay on a damp towel. Put a little of the pork mixture at the bottom of the wrapper; roll and fold as you would a burrito. Serve with salted shredded cabbage tossed with sesame oil and rice vinegar.
32.
Sausage and Grape Bruschetta
Red grapes are prettier here.
Squeeze two Italian sausages from their casings and break the meat into a hot skillet with a little olive oil and a chopped red onion. Cook, stirring once in a while, until browned all over. Meanwhile, cut several thick slices of good Italian bread, brush with olive oil, and toast or broil until crisp outside but tender inside. When the sausage is done, stir in about a pound of grapes, mashing a bit to break some of them up. Cook until just warmed through. Top the bread with the sausage mixture and pan juices.
33.
Fish Tacos
Any firm white fish works well here; or try crab or shrimp.
Cook a chopped red onion in olive oil for a minute or two. When it’s soft, add a big pinch of ground cumin or coriander and some salt and pepper. Keeping the heat relatively high, add a pound or so of fish fillets and stir to break them into chunks, cooking until they’re just opaque. Off heat, squeeze lime juice over the mixture and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Warm corn tortillas and fill with the fish mixture. Top with shredded cabbage, chopped tomato or tomatillos, a splash of hot sauce, and a dollop of sour cream.
34.
Tuna-Anchovy Sandwich
You can use this to stuff celery sticks, too.
Mash olive oil–packed tuna with some anchovy fillets and minced garlic. Squeeze lemon juice over all and fold in some chopped black olives, halved cherry tomatoes, and chopped fresh basil or parsley. Spread on good crusty bread or serve with crisp lettuce cups for wrapping.
35.
Grilled Tomato Sandwich with Blue Cheese Spread
Thinly sliced roast beef will bulk this up considerably.
Mash blue cheese with a little softened cream cheese, chopped chives, and just enough milk to make it spreadable. Smear a thin layer on slices of good bread. Top with ripe tomato, salt, and pepper. Make sandwiches and slip into a buttered hot frying pan. (If you’re making more than one sandwich, assemble them on a baking sheet and broil them on both sides.) Press down gently when you flip the sandwich and keep cooking until golden and gooey. Cut on the diagonal and serve with pickles or chow chow.
36.
Shrimp-Tomato-Arugula Wraps
Just what it sounds like.
Mince garlic and cook in vegetable oil till just fragrant, less than a minute. Add peeled shrimp and cook until pink, about three minutes more. Make a dressing of plain yogurt, lemon juice, chopped cilantro, salt, and pepper. Warm large flour tortillas (whole wheat are nice), then spread yogurt mixture on each tortilla and add arugula, sliced seeded tomato, the shrimp, and some lettuce. Roll tightly, cut in halves or quarters, and serve.
37.
Caramelized Caprese Sandwich
Halve good crusty rolls or squares of corn bread or focaccia and toast under the broiler. Slice ripe tomatoes crosswise into thick rounds; spread out on a broiler pan, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and quickly brown on both sides. Serve open-faced: bread first (olive bread is awesome), then sliced fresh mozzarella and fresh basil leaves, topped with the tomato slices; drizzle with pan juices.
38.
Portobello Burgers with Tomato Mayonnaise
You can grill or broil the lettuce and tomato too, if you like.
Stem large portobellos; cut a large onion into thick slices. Brush both with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper, then grill or broil until tender. Meanwhile, puree a large ripe, seeded tomato in a food processor with good-quality mayo, a clove of garlic, and a few fresh herb sprigs if you’ve got them handy. Halve rolls or buns, spread them with the mayonnaise, and fill with mushroom and onion, adding lettuce and more tomato. Serve.
39.
Grilled Fish Sandwich with Chile-Lime-Carrot Relish
Mayo scented with chile and lime is good as a dressing here too; and use tomatoes if you can’t find tomatillos.
Grate two or three carrots and combine with lime juice, chili powder, minced garlic, salt, and pepper; press down to soften the carrots a bit. Brush any sturdy white fish with olive oil and grill until done, about three minutes per side. Split good-quality rolls; spread carrot relish on the bottom half and add sliced tomatillos, cilantro sprigs, and the fish.
40.
Five-Spice Lobster Sandwich
Or crab, or shrimp, or mixed seafood.
Combine a large pinch of five-spice powder with two tablespoons soy sauce, one tablespoon rice vinegar, and two teaspoons sesame oil. Add two chopped scallions, grated ginger, minced garlic, and minced fresh chile if you like. Mince a red bell pepper and add it to the dressing along with about two cups shredded cooked lobster. Mix well with a fork, taste, and add some salt and pepper. Spread on split baguette or rice cakes.
41.
Blackened Salmon Sandwich
Grind together some cumin seed, fennel seed, dried oregano, dried thyme, paprika, a little bit of cayenne, and salt; rub all over skinned salmon fillets. Heat a heavy skillet until almost smoking, add a film of oil, and cook salmon until well browned, about four minutes; then flip and cook until medium-done. Layer thickly sliced bread or rolls with thin-sliced onion, plain yogurt, arugula leaves, and salmon.
42.
Black Bean Tostada
In Mexico, this is called a clayuda.
Heat precooked or canned black beans, adding ground cumin, chili powder, fresh oregano, and salt. Shred cabbage and chop a few radishes or a chunk of jicama; grate some Mexican melting cheese like queso Oaxaca or cotija, and slice some smoked chorizo or other cooked sausage. Drain the beans and mash roughly. Lightly toast large tortillas under the broiler, then top with the beans, the cheese, and the meat. Return to the broiler to melt the cheese and serve, topped with the vegetables and a dollop of sour cream; put lime wedges on the side.
43.
Taco Slaw
Not your usual restaurant salad.
Load a big bowl up with shredded cabbage. Add precooked or canned drained pinto beans, a handful of corn kernels, lots of chopped tomatoes and red onions, sliced red bell pepper and avocado, bits of chopped smoked chorizo, and crumbled queso fresco. Break up some tortilla chips on top. Put a bunch of fresh cilantro in the blender with lime juice, olive oil, salt, pepper, and as much fresh or dried chile as you can stand. Give the mixture a good whirl, then use it to dress and toss the salad. Serve with crema for last-minute drizzling.
44.
Microwaved Honey Eggplant
Sort of amazing.
Combine a half cup each of chopped parsley and breadcrumbs with three tablespoons olive oil, two tablespoons honey, one minced garlic clove, and a pinch of salt. Cut one large or two medium eggplants crosswise into one-inch slices; then score the top of each slice. Put the slices in a dish and spread the breadcrumb mixture over the tops, pressing it into the slits. Partially cover with wax paper and microwave on high power for about five minutes. Remove the paper and cook another two or three minutes, until very soft. Sprinkle with lemon juice and serve with yogurt on the side.
45.
Balsamic Beef, Radicchio, and Romaine
Serve as a warm salad, or skip the lettuce and toss the beef mixture with pasta.
Shred a medium head of radicchio and a head of romaine lettuce. Brown about a half pound of ground beef in some olive oil with salt and pepper, then add a chopped red onion, a chopped garlic clove, and a chopped fresh red chile (or use a pinch of dried flakes). When the vegetables begin to get soft, add the radicchio, a splash of balsamic vinegar, and a little water. Cook until the radicchio is caramelized and the sauce thickens. Toss in a big bowl with the lettuce, adding more olive oil if needed; pass grated Parmesan at the table if you like.
46.
Swiss Chard with White Beans and Pancetta
Or bacon.
Dice a quarter pound of pancetta and sear in olive oil until golden and getting crisp. Meanwhile, take a large bunch of Swiss chard and chop, keeping stems and leaves separate. Add the stems to the pancetta; when they soften a bit, add the leaves. Stir until wilted, then add a quarter cup of raisins, a quarter cup of pine nuts, and a couple cups of precooked or canned navy beans (rinsed and drained). Warm until heated through and serve with toasted olive bread or toss with pasta.
47.
String Beans with Bacon and Tomatoes
Like stewed vegetables, only fresher.
Chop a fair amount of thick bacon and fry with some sliced onions in a deep skillet until the meat is cooked and the onions are soft. Pour off some of the fat if there’s a lot; add string beans and cook and stir until brightly colored and beginning to soften. Stir in chopped ripe tomatoes and cook until just breaking apart. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve over white rice or thick slices of toast.
48.
Zucchini with Tomatoes and Chorizo
Serve on crusty bread or pasta.
Cut zucchini into quarter-inch disks; cook crumbled (Mexican) chorizo in olive oil for about three minutes, or until beginning to brown, then add diced shallot or onion and minced garlic; continue cooking until the shallot is translucent, a couple of minutes more. Add the zucchini and some chopped tomatoes; cover and cook until the zucchini is tender, about five more minutes. Add some lemon zest and juice, season with salt and pepper, and serve.
49.
Shrimp with Toasted Coconut
Great over a bed of jasmine rice.
Toast some shredded unsweetened coconut, shaking the pan to keep it from burning, until just golden; remove and set aside. Add some oil to the pan, along with peeled shrimp and some curry powder, and cook until the shrimp are pink. Add enough coconut milk to make the mixture saucy, along with some soy sauce and the toasted coconut. Serve garnished with fresh cilantro.
50.
Lettuce Wraps
Incredibly easy and impressive.
Toss good-quality shredded cooked chicken, cooked ground meat, or lump crabmeat with minced shallot or red onion, chopped cilantro, sesame oil, minced Thai chile, salt, and pepper. Take the large outer leaves from heads of Bibb or Boston lettuce, put a couple of tablespoons of the filling mixture in the middle of each leaf, then roll up like a burrito to eat.
51.
Grilled Vegetables with Quinoa
Don’t hesitate to add leftover shredded chicken, crumbled sausage, or even some fried tofu.
Heat the grill and cook the quinoa. Thread quartered shallots or red onions on one skewer, and cherry tomatoes and quartered mushrooms on another (they’ll cook more quickly than the onions). Brush the vegetables with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill the vegetables, turning as needed, until browned and done, about six minutes. Remove the vegetables from the skewers and toss them with the quinoa in large bowl; mix gently, season with more olive oil and salt and pepper as needed, garnish with freshly chopped basil, and serve.
52.
Black and Blue Tuna
Combine sushi-grade tuna steaks with a lot of grated ginger, some minced garlic, and a splash each of oil, soy sauce, fish sauce, and lime juice. Marinate about five minutes, then dredge in sesame seeds. For rare, sear each side for about two minutes on a hot grill or in a lightly oiled, well-seasoned pan. Slice and serve over a bed of watercress.
53.
Tuna with Pineapple, Cucumber, and Avocado
Try using toasted nori instead of lavash for the wrap.
Cut sushi-grade tuna into quarter-inch-thick slices; slice avocado and pineapple into pretty much equal-sized pieces. Very thinly slice a cucumber. Mix together minced ginger, lemon juice, soy sauce, and a little fish sauce. Lay cucumber slices on lavash or other wrap-type bread, overlapping them slightly, then top with the tuna, avocado, and pineapple; drizzle with the dressing, throw in a few sprigs of cilantro, and roll up.
54.
Grilled Fish Kebabs
Try any solid, meaty fish here.
Make a paste from a few cloves of garlic; salt; pepper; lemon juice; chopped fresh oregano, marjoram, or parsley; and olive oil. Cut fish into two-inch chunks, rub well with the paste, and thread onto skewers. Grill for about five minutes, turning as needed, until the fish is firm and slightly blackened. Serve with lemon wedges.
55.
Grilled Fish with Peach and Tomato Salad
Again, use whatever fish is fresh and firm.
Brush the fish with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Slice an equal number of tomatoes and peaches and put them in a serving dish with diced red onion, chopped cilantro, olive oil, lime juice, salt, and pepper. Grill the fish, turning once, until just done, then serve with the salad and a slice of lemon or lime.
56.
Grilled Sardines with Summer Squash
Fresh sardines are fabulous on the grill.
Brush sardines (figure three or four per serving) with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and freshly chopped oregano. Slice zucchini and yellow summer squash into half-inch-thick pieces. Brush the squash with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill the squash until it’s softening, about four minutes per side. Grill the sardines a little less, two or three minutes per side. Serve the sardines over a bed of alternating green and yellow squash, with lots of lemon wedges on the side.
57.
Grilled Fish with Spinach and Tomatoes
Use any white-fleshed fish fillets or steaks here.
Brush the fillets with olive oil and season them with salt and pepper; grill until done. Meanwhile, cook a couple of cloves of garlic in olive oil until fragrant, then add spinach and keep cooking until just wilted, just a couple of minutes; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Thinly slice a couple of tomatoes, and layer on plates; drizzle with olive oil. Top with the spinach and fish and serve with lemon.
58.
Scallop and Peach Ceviche
Plums and pineapple are also terrific here.
Dice high-quality scallops and peaches into equal-sized cubes about a quarter-to a half-inch square. Toss them together in a bowl, along with finely diced red onion, finely chopped tarragon, lots of lime juice (the acid in the lime juice will “cook” the scallops in a few minutes), salt, and pepper. Adjust the seasonings and serve.
59.
Grilled Fish with Raw Pineapple Chutney
Any sturdy, meaty fish will work.
Combine diced pineapple with chopped scallions, chopped cilantro, salt, pepper, lime juice, and a little cayenne. Brush the fish with olive oil and season with salt and pepper and a squeeze of lime juice. Grill the fish until done. Serve topped with a couple of spoonfuls of the chutney.
60.
Braised Fish with Cherry Tomatoes
A lovely summer dinner served with good bread and a crisp salad.
Cut cherry tomatoes into halves. Sprinkle them and some sturdy white fish steaks or fillets with salt, pepper, and fresh or dried oregano. Heat some olive oil and add the fish; cook until it begins to brown, then turn and add a cup of not-too-dry white wine, some minced garlic, and the tomatoes. Bring to a simmer and cook until the fish is done (a thin-bladed knife inserted into its center will meet little resistance). Serve in soup bowls with the broth.
61.
Grilled Watermelon and Shrimp Skewers
Nice with basmati rice mixed with toasted coconut.
Light a charcoal or gas grill. Alternate chunks of watermelon and large shrimp on skewers; brush with olive oil and sprinkle with curry powder, salt, and pepper. Grill, turning as needed, until the shrimp is opaque. Garnish with chopped scallions and pistachios and serve with lime wedges.
62.
Crab Cake Burger
Dredging the patties in breadcrumbs instead of mixing them with the crab makes for a fantastically crisp crust.
Combine about a pound of crabmeat with a few tablespoons of mayonnaise, a tablespoon of Dijon mustard, a couple of tablespoons of freshly chopped parsley, salt, and pepper; form into patties. Gently coat the patties in fresh breadcrumbs and sear in hot oil. Cook the patties until they’re just golden, turning once. Serve on good-quality buns or rolls topped with lettuce and tomato if you like; garnish with slices of lemon.
63.
Shrimp with Cilantro, Garlic, and Lime
Serve alone, over noodles or rice, or even as part of a salad.
In a large bowl, combine a handful or so of chopped cilantro, some minced garlic, the zest and juice of a lime, a tablespoon of fish sauce, salt, and pepper. In vegetable oil, cook a pound of shrimp until pink and no longer translucent, three or four minutes. (Or use squid; cook it for even less time.) Toss the shrimp in the cilantro mixture and serve.
64.
Shrimp, Scallop, and Cherry Tomato Kebabs
Use chunks of firm fish here too, if you like.
Skewer shrimp, scallops, and cherry tomatoes, alternating fish and tomatoes. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill the kebabs until the fish is done and the tomatoes are soft and slightly blackened, turning as needed. Sprinkle with chopped parsley (or a mixture of parsley and minced onion) and serve with lemon.
65.
Bacon-Wrapped Scallops
Modernizing an old fave.
In a pan, cook the bacon until it’s pliable and golden, about five minutes; drain on paper towels and set aside. Season the scallops with salt and pepper, wrap each in a half-slice of bacon, and secure with a toothpick; sear the bundles, turning once, until the scallops are opaque and the bacon is nicely browned, about five minutes total. Dress greens lightly with olive oil and fresh lemon juice and serve the scallops on top.
66.
Stir-Fried Corn and Clams
Fun to eat with chopsticks or your hands.
Cut ears of corn crosswise into one-inch slices. Put a film of vegetable oil in the bottom of a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add some ginger and garlic and the corn and cook and stir until coated and beginning to color, just a minute or two. Add scrubbed clams, a splash each of water and white wine or sherry, and a handful of fermented black beans; cover and cook until the clams open. Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve, garnished with chopped scallions or cilantro and lime wedges.
67.
Grilled Lemon-Tarragon Chicken
Tarragon and chicken are a classic and wonderful marriage.
Mix the zest of a lemon with some chopped fresh tarragon (no more than a teaspoon or so; it’s strong). Brush thin chicken breasts with olive oil, smear with the zest and tarragon, and season with salt and pepper. Grill the chicken, turning it once, until cooked through. Squeeze more lemon juice over the chicken, then serve, with coarse-grain mustard on the side.
68.
Grilled Chicken Kebabs
It takes just a couple of minutes more to slice up some eggplant and zucchini and throw them onto the grill with the kebabs.
Cut boneless chicken breasts or thighs into chunks. Combine a teaspoon of paprika, a teaspoon of cinnamon, a dash of nutmeg, salt, and pepper together in a small bowl. Toss the chicken with a few tablespoons of olive oil and some fresh lemon juice; sprinkle well with the spice mixture. Thread the chicken onto skewers and grill until done, then serve with lemon wedges.
69.
Grilled Chicken Paillards with Endive and Radicchio
The grilled lemons make this spectacular.
Pound chicken breasts to quarter-inch thickness, brush them with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cut the endive and radicchio into halves, brush the cut side with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cut three or four lemons in half and brush the cut side with olive oil. On a hot grill, cook the chicken, turning it once, until it’s brown and done, about three minutes per side; cook the endive, radicchio, and lemons, cut side down, until browned, about four minutes. Serve the chicken with the vegetables, squeezing the grilled lemon over everything.
70.
Jerk Chicken
Serve with black beans and rice or couscous.
In a food processor, combine a half cup of white vinegar, two tablespoons of rum, one or two habanero chiles, a red onion, one tablespoon of dried thyme, two teaspoons of salt, one teaspoon of cracked black peppercorns, one tablespoon each of allspice, cinnamon, and ginger, and two teaspoons of molasses. Process until smooth. Cover a pound of boneless chicken (thighs or breasts) in this mixture and let sit for about five minutes (or up to an hour). Grill the chicken, turning once, until browned and cooked through.
71.
Chicken with Chinese Long Beans and Lemongrass
If you can’t find Chinese long beans, use regular green beans.
Cut Chinese long beans into one-inch pieces; cook in boiling, salted water until crisp-tender, about two minutes. Drain and shock in ice water; set aside. Soften a diced onion in a little oil, along with some minced garlic, for about a minute; remove. Stir-fry a pound of chicken that’s been cut into half-inch strips until the chicken turns white and is partially cooked, about three minutes. Add a tablespoon of minced lemongrass (the tender inner part only), a tablespoon of fish sauce, a teaspoon of ground coriander, a cup of chicken stock, and about two tablespoons of oyster sauce; mix well and continue cooking until the chicken is done, about three more minutes. Add the green beans, the onion, and garlic and toss well so that everything is coated in the sauce. Season with salt and lots of pepper and serve.
72.
Spicy Chicken Tacos with Chipotle Cream
Chipotles are hot, so use them to taste.
Mix a cup of sour cream with diced canned chipotles, along with a little of their sauce (adobo). Combine two tablespoons of brown sugar, a tablespoon each of paprika and chili powder, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Pound chicken breasts to half-inch thickness, brush them with oil, and coat them with the spice rub. Grill or broil the chicken, turning once, until it’s cooked through, about six minutes; meanwhile, dice a tomato, an avocado, and a red onion. Slice the chicken and serve it on warm corn tortillas with the vegetables, and chipotle cream; garnish with cilantro.
73.
Spiced Chicken with Mango Salsa
I grill this chicken, but you can just as easily cook it quickly in a pan with a bit of oil or butter.
Heat a grill or grill pan. In a small bowl, mix one teaspoon each of cinnamon, cumin, and paprika; a pinch of cayenne; salt; and pepper. Rub quarter-inch-thick chicken cutlets with the spice mix. In another bowl, combine a chopped mango, half a diced red onion, a handful of chopped cilantro, the juice of half a lime, a tablespoon of olive oil, salt, and pepper. Grill the chicken, turning once, until well browned and cooked through. Serve the chicken topped with mango salsa and lime wedges.
74.
Pork Paillards with Grilled Pineapple
Pound boneless pork chops or medallions cut from the tenderloin to quarter-inch thickness; slice a pineapple into half-inch rings. Brush both with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the pineapple until it’s well browned on both sides, about four minutes. Grill the pork until it’s cooked through, about two minutes on each side. Serve the pork and pineapple with a good steak sauce.
75.
Grilled Pork Skewers with Worcestershire
Mix a quarter cup of Worcestershire sauce with two teaspoons of lime juice. Slice a lime into eight wedges. Cut pork tenderloin into one-inch cubes, brush with the Worcestershire mixture, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Thread the pork and lime wedges alternately on skewers. Grill the pork, turning as needed to slightly blacken on all sides and brushing repeatedly with the sauce, until cooked through. Serve, squeezing the grilled lime over the pork.
76.
Spicy Grilled Pork with Peach Marmalade
If you like sweet and savory combos, you’ll love this.
Combine a quarter cup of peach (or apricot) preserves with some minced garlic, a tablespoon of olive oil, a tablespoon of soy sauce, a half teaspoon of dry mustard, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt. Coat thin, boneless pork chops with the marmalade and grill, taking care not to let the marmalade burn. Slice fresh peaches (or apricots) in half, and remove the pits; sprinkle with salt and grill flesh-side down for a couple of minutes until colored and just softening. Serve the pork with the grilled fruit.
77.
Grilled Pork with Basil Peanut Sauce
Use natural peanut butter, please (peanuts and salt, nothing else).
In a blender, combine a few handfuls of fresh basil, a lump of peanut butter (say, a quarter cup), a tablespoon or two of fish sauce, a clove of garlic, a small piece of fresh ginger, a pinch of red chile flakes, and a little water; process until you have a smooth, thick paste, then taste and add more of whatever you like. Rub the paste over a pound of boneless pork chops (about a half-inch thick) and set aside to marinate for a few minutes. Slice a couple of heads of baby bok choy in half; brush them with peanut or sesame oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lime juice. Grill the pork until it’s slightly blackened and cooked through; grill the bok choy until it wilts slightly and is tender when pierced with a knife. Serve together.
78.
Grilled Steaks with Rosemary Plums
Don’t bother to skewer the fruit if you’re feeling lazy; just lay the rosemary on top as the pieces cook.
Brush rib eye, strip, or sirloin steaks with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cut plums into quarters, remove the pits, and skewer them on rosemary sprigs. Grill everything, turning once, until the steaks are just done—five minutes or so, depending on their thickness—and the plums are soft and slightly blackened. Serve together, with garlic bread.
79.
Korean Barbecued Beef
Traditionally eaten with white rice, wrapped in lettuce leaves.
Slice a flank (or better: skirt) steak into half-inch pieces. Mix together one teaspoon of sesame oil, one tablespoon of brown sugar, three tablespoons of soy sauce, one tablespoon of mirin (or a little honey mixed with water), two minced cloves of garlic, and a pinch of red chile flakes. Brush the meat with the sauce and grill until it begins to crisp, about two minutes per side, basting frequently. Serve the beef sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds and chopped scallions.
80.
Grilled Skirt Steak with Tomatillo Salsa
Use tomatoes, peaches, or pineapple here.
Season a skirt steak with salt and pepper. In a food processor, puree three or four tomatillos, a handful of cilantro, a clove of garlic, a jalapeño or other green chile, a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, some lemon or lime juice, a dash of sugar, salt, and pepper; process until smooth, then taste and adjust the seasonings. Grill the steak to medium-rare, about three minutes on each side. Serve the steak sliced against the grain and drizzled with the salsa.
81.
A Very Good Burger
In a food processor, coarsely grind a pound or so of sirloin or chuck, cut in chunks, with half of a white onion. Season the meat mixture generously with salt and pepper, and form it into patties, handling it as little as possible. Grill the burgers on each side for about three minutes for rare, and a minute more for each further degree of doneness. Serve on buns or rolls with freshly sliced tomatoes, pickles, lettuce, bacon, avocado, or whatever you like.
82.
Hot-and-Sour Beef and Okra Stir-fry
High heat minimizes okra’s slime factor.
Trim okra and cut in half lengthwise. Put a film of vegetable oil in the bottom of a large skillet set over high heat. When hot, add the okra, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook without stirring until it sputters and browns a bit; stir and let it go a minute or two more. Meanwhile, cut a sirloin or flank steak into strips and chop up some garlic, ginger, onions, and fresh hot chile. Remove the okra from the pan, adding more oil if needed. Stir-fry the beef until almost done; then add the aromatics and chile and sprinkle lightly with sugar. Splash some rice vinegar and soy sauce in the pan to make a little sauce. Add the okra and some cilantro or Thai basil and give a good stir. Serve over rice.
83.
Grilled Lamb Chops with Lemony Yogurt Sauce
This is a lovely sauce whose flavor profile you can readily change by replacing the spices with chopped dill or mint.
Combine a cup of plain yogurt with a few tablespoons of lemon juice, a quarter cup of diced cucumber, and a teaspoon or so of ground cumin and paprika (or pimentón). Season the chops with salt and pepper; grill until medium-rare, about three minutes per side depending on thickness. Serve the lamb with the yogurt sauce.
84.
Grilled Lamb Chops with Summer Fruit
Grill whatever’s in season—nectarines, plums, peaches, and pears are all delicious.
Season lamb chops with salt, pepper, and a sprinkle of cinnamon; cut the fruit into quarters. Cook the lamb chops, turning once, until medium-rare (timing will depend on how thick the chops are). While the lamb is cooking, add the fruit to the grill and cook until it begins to soften and you have nice grill marks. Serve the lamb topped with the grilled fruit.
85.
Shrimp and Pasta with Pesto
You can always use store-bought pesto; but I wouldn’t.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it. Meanwhile, in a food processor, puree a few large handfuls of fresh basil, a large handful of freshly grated Parmesan, and a small one of pine nuts or walnuts; and salt, pepper, and enough olive oil to reach a smooth consistency—you don’t want the pesto too thin. In some olive oil cook about a half pound of small whole or large chopped shrimp. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water, and toss it with the pesto and shrimp, using some of the pasta water to moisten the mixture if needed. Serve warm or cold.
86.
Pasta with Cherry Tomatoes
This is sublime when summer tomatoes are at their peak.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it; meanwhile, cook a minced clove of garlic in olive oil for a couple of minutes, until fragrant. Add about a pound of whole cherry or grape tomatoes to the pan and cook over low heat. When a few have burst, turn off the heat. Drain the pasta and toss it gently with the tomatoes. Season with salt and lots of freshly ground pepper; serve with freshly chopped basil and/or freshly grated Parmesan.
87.
Pasta Salad with Beans and Herbs
Serve as a room-temperature salad, or warm as a main course.
Cook cut pasta, like ziti, then drain and rinse. Meanwhile, combine a couple of minced shallots; some drained precooked or canned kidney, garbanzo, and black beans; a few tablespoons of olive oil; some minced garlic; a teaspoon of red chile flakes; and lots of freshly chopped parsley, along with (if you have it) a little dill, mint, and basil. (Add some chopped or cherry tomatoes if you like.) Toss the pasta with the bean mixture and season well with salt and pepper.
88.
Pasta with Spicy Squid
Fastest, of course, with pre-cleaned squid.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it. Meanwhile, slice fresh squid into rings; cook some minced garlic and a diced red chile in olive oil. Add a splash of dry white wine to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and add the squid; cook until just done, about two minutes. Toss in the drained pasta, adding extra olive oil if needed, and season well with salt and pepper, and perhaps a little bit of red chile flakes, before serving.
89.
Cellophane Noodles with Shrimp and Papaya
Add some mango or pineapple, or substitute one for the papaya if you like.
Soak the cellophane noodles in boiling water until tender, rinse, and drain. Peel a papaya and dice it into quarter-inch pieces; thinly slice a few scallions; chop a handful of fresh basil; and mince a Thai (or another) chile. Combine in a bowl with a pound of cooked shrimp. Whisk together a few tablespoons of rice wine vinegar, a teaspoon of sugar, and a pinch of salt; then combine with the shrimp mixture and the noodles. Garnish with chopped peanuts and cilantro, mint, or more basil.
90.
Pasta with Spicy Shellfish
This works with peeled shrimp, squid, or crabmeat or shucked clams, oysters, or mussels.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it; meanwhile, soften a couple of minced garlic cloves and a pinch of red chile flakes in some olive oil; cook until fragrant, about two minutes. Add about a pound of fresh seafood to the garlic and chile flakes, and continue cooking until the fish is cooked (or in the case of crab, warmed through), anywhere from three to five more minutes. Toss the pasta with the seafood, along with a bit of the pasta cooking water if needed. Drizzle with more olive oil if you like; season with salt, pepper, and more red chile flakes if necessary; and garnish with freshly chopped basil or parsley.
91.
Pasta with Puttanesca Cruda
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it; meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix together two large chopped tomatoes, a handful of pitted and chopped olives (any kind, as long as they’re good), a couple of tablespoons of drained capers, a handful each of chopped fresh basil and parsley, several chopped anchovy fillets, a little minced garlic, a pinch of red chile flakes, and about a quarter cup of olive oil. Toss the hot pasta and about a quarter cup of the cooking liquid with the tomato mixture, adding more cooking liquid if necessary. Season with salt and pepper, and garnish with more chopped herbs.
92.
Poached Tofu with Broccoli
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Lower a brick of firm tofu into the water and cook until it just floats, five to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together equal parts soy sauce, sake, lemon and orange juices, and water with a little sugar and a few drops of sesame oil; break a head of broccoli into florets. When you remove the tofu, plunge the broccoli into the pot; count to 20 and then drain. Serve thick slices of the tofu with the florets, drizzling the dressing over all. Sprinkle with panko too, if you like.
93.
Blueberry Ricotta Cheesecakes
One of my favorite ways to make the most of fresh blueberries.
In a food processor, finely grind one sleeve of graham crackers. Combine the crackers with about three tablespoons of melted butter and press the mixture into ramekins. Whisk a cup of ricotta cheese with a cup of cream cheese (an eight-ounce package), a couple of tablespoons of honey, the zest and juice of a lemon, and a pinch of salt. Spread the ricotta mixture evenly in the prepared crust, top with lots of fresh blueberries, and serve, or refrigerate for up to a day before serving.
94.
Apricot Cream Upside-Down Pie
Equally good with fresh or dried apricots.
Halve and pit a pound of apricots; put them in a pan with a half cup of brandy and bring to a boil. Continue cooking until the apricots break down, about eight minutes. Whip a cup of cream, along with a tablespoon of brandy, until thick. In a food processor, pulse about eight graham crackers with a good handful of pistachios (pecans are nice here too), leaving the mixture slightly chunky. When the apricots are done, fold them into the whipped cream. Serve a heaping spoonful of the apricot cream in a bowl sprinkled with the graham cracker–nut crunch on top.
95.
Frozen Hot Chocolate
Serve this with biscotti or other not-too-sweet cookies.
Melt six ounces of good dark chocolate with a quarter cup of cream or half-and-half, being careful not to boil. Once the chocolate is melted, taste and add a little sugar if you like. Put it in the blender with three cups of ice and pulse until an even consistency is reached. Serve in small bowls or cups.
96.
Ginger-Lemon “Ice Cream”
Add more candied ginger if you like.
In a food processor, puree two tablespoons of fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped, with a half cup of sugar, two cups of cream, and the juice and zest of one lemon. Add ice, pulsing, and pushing down as necessary, until thick and icy; add a couple of tablespoons of chopped candied ginger at the end and process until just combined. Serve immediately, or freeze for up to several days.
97.
Peach Lemon “Cheesecake”
This works just as well with nectarines, raspberries, strawberries, or even mangoes.
Puree two peaches with the juice of one lemon, two tablespoons of sugar, and about six ounces of goat cheese—you want a nice thick mixture, so use more cheese as needed. Spoon the mixture into individual ramekins, smooth the top, and cover with a layer of chopped pistachios. Sprinkle the nuts with powdered sugar and a drizzle of honey.
98.
Fresh Fruit Gratin
Use stone fruits (peaches, nectarines, plums, or apricots) or berries.
Wash, pit, and prepare the fruit as needed; heat the broiler. Combine one cup of sour cream with about two tablespoons of sugar and one teaspoon of vanilla. Put two to three cups of fruit in a baking dish just large enough to hold it, top with the sour cream mixture, and sprinkle with a teaspoon of sugar; broil for about two minutes, or until the cream begins to brown.
99.
Blackberries with Champagne and Tarragon
Oddly appealing.
Finely chop a couple of teaspoons of fresh tarragon. Toss a quart of rinsed blackberries with a few tablespoons of sugar, a cup or so of sparkling wine, and the tarragon. Let the mixture sit for about five minutes, or longer if you have time, and serve in small bowls with your favorite sugar cookie.
100.
Ice Cream Sandwich
Use different flavors of ice cream or sorbet, or vary the jam (or skip it altogether).
Let vanilla ice cream soften for five minutes. Lay cocoa snaps or gingersnaps (or vanilla wafers) out in two rows and spread raspberry jam thinly on each one. Add a scoop of the softened ice cream to half the cookies and top with the remaining cookies to make sandwiches.
101.
Quick Summer Fruit Ice Cream
All you need is a food processor.
Freeze a pound of fresh sliced fruit (trimmed, seeded, or pitted as needed). When hard, put in the machine along with one-half cup crème fraîche (or yogurt or silken tofu for that matter). Add as much or as little sugar as you like and just enough water, a spoonful at a time, to let the processor do its thing. Scrape down the bowl as needed; but don’t overprocess, or the ice cream will liquefy. Serve immediately; or if you freeze for later, let it sit out for 10 or 15 minutes to soften a bit.