FALL
Much of summer’s bounty remains through early fall, and as it starts to dwindle, it’s replaced by the late-harvest fruits and vegetables that will carry through the winter—apples, pears, winter squash, and a return of many of the cool-weather vegetables of spring. The combination of grilling and braising, of summer and winter, makes this a magical time to cook, and one with more options than any other.
1.
Spicy Escarole with Croutons and Eggs
You might add a bit of dried oregano, or garlic, or both to the croutons before toasting.
Cut good-quality bread into one-inch cubes; toss the bread with two tablespoons of olive oil, salt, and pepper and toast them until golden, about three or four minutes. Cook a bunch of chopped escarole in two tablespoons of butter for about five minutes, or until wilted. Toss the escarole with the croutons, a pinch or two of red chile flakes, freshly squeezed lemon juice, olive oil, and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Serve the greens and croutons in bowls with a soft-boiled or poached egg on top, along with more Parmesan.
2.
Mediterranean Poached Eggs
This is fine when the eggs are scrambled, too.
Slice a cup or so of mushrooms and a handful of black olives; chop an onion and two or three plum tomatoes. In a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, cook a smashed clove of garlic and the onion for about two minutes. Add the olives, mushrooms, and tomatoes and let the mixture simmer over medium heat. Poach four eggs and toast thick slices of peasant bread. Add a handful of chopped fresh basil and a couple of tablespoons of capers to the vegetable mixture; season with salt and pepper. Serve the vegetables and eggs on the bread, with lemon wedges on the side.
3.
Egg and Carrot Cake with Soy
Made with common ingredients, but unusual and delicious.
Grate a large carrot while you melt a tablespoon of butter in a skillet over medium heat; add the grated carrot and some minced garlic. Whisk four eggs with a couple of tablespoons of milk in a bowl and add them to the carrots; cook as you would a frittata. When the eggs are almost set, add a few dashes of soy sauce and a sprinkle of scallions and serve. (Good at room temperature, too.)
4.
Huevos Rancheros
For a less conventional version, replace the tomatoes in the salsa with peaches or pineapple.
Chop two large tomatoes, half a red onion, a small chile, and a handful of fresh cilantro; mix together with freshly squeezed lime juice, salt, and pepper. Warm a can of black beans (if you have homemade, all the better). While the beans are warming, make eggs any way you like: fried, poached, or scrambled. Top a warm tortilla with some beans, the eggs, and the salsa; garnish with fresh avocado and more cilantro.
5.
Breakfast Burritos
Basically a tortilla filled with eggs and other stuff.
Heat a can of black, red, or refried beans (or use homemade). Warm large flour tortillas in the oven, in the microwave, or in a dry skillet until just soft. Scramble a couple of eggs and cook them to the desired doneness. Spread some beans down the middle of a tortilla, top with grated cheese, eggs, and then anything else you like: olives, scallions, avocado, tomatoes, cilantro, bacon, sausage, salsa—you get the picture. Fold the short sides of the tortillas in, roll lengthwise, and serve.
6.
Brunch Baked Eggs
Really substantial.
Heat the oven to 400°F. In a pan over medium-high heat, melt a tablespoon or two of butter. Add a bunch of chopped spinach; cover the pan and let the spinach wilt. Add a half cup of cream, a cup of ricotta cheese, a handful of grated provolone, a couple of tablespoons of cognac (optional), salt, pepper, and a sprinkle of nutmeg. Bring this mixture to a simmer, stirring often, for about two more minutes. Divide the spinach mixture among four oven-safe bowls or ramekins (or cook in one big bowl); crack an egg over the top of each. Put the bowls on a cookie sheet and bake them for eight to 10 minutes, or until the whites of the eggs are just set. Serve with toasted bread.
7.
In-Shell Clam Chowder
A rustic spin on the classic.
Heat some olive oil in a pot, and cook a chopped onion for a couple of minutes until soft. Stir in some chopped celery, four cups of fish or clam broth (or water), and a cup each of heavy cream and dry white wine; add a few thyme sprigs, and a pound of potatoes, cut into quarter-inch dice. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Add a couple dozen scrubbed clams, season well with salt and pepper, and cover and cook until the clams pop open, just a couple of minutes more. Serve in shallow bowls, garnished with chopped parsley and lemon wedges.
8.
Mushroom and Nori Soup
Light, delicate, flavorful, and unusual.
In a pot over high heat, cook about three cups of mushrooms (any combination works; oyster and shiitake is especially good) in a couple of tablespoons of butter until they begin to release their liquid; add a diced onion, a minced garlic clove, and a chopped celery stalk and cook until the onion is translucent. Add about four cups of vegetable or chicken stock, a quarter cup of soy sauce, the juice of a lemon, a pinch of celery seed, salt, and pepper. Cook until the vegetables are tender. Tear or slice a sheet of nori into strips and put in soup bowls; pour soup over the nori (it will mostly dissolve) and serve.
9.
Lemony Red Lentil Soup with Cilantro
Red lentils cook very quickly, but allow more time if you substitute any other type.
Cook a chopped onion in olive oil in a saucepan until soft; add one cup of red lentils and four cups of chicken broth and bring to a boil; continue simmering until the lentils are soft. Puree a handful of cilantro with a few tablespoons of olive oil and a pinch of salt; set aside. If you like, puree half the lentils until almost smooth; return them to the pan. Add about two tablespoons of lemon juice or more to taste. Stir in the cilantro puree, adjust the seasonings, and serve with crusty bread or a mound of rice in the center.
10.
Egg Drop Soup
Nothing could be easier.
Bring a quart of stock (chicken or vegetable) to a slow bubble; gently pour four beaten eggs into the stock while stirring. Add soy sauce to taste and garnish with some chopped cilantro or scallions; a little sesame oil is nice, too.
11.
Curried Coconut–Butternut Squash Soup
You can buy pre-peeled, precut squash, and just cut it down to quarter-inch pieces.
Cook two cups of chopped squash in a few tablespoons of vegetable oil, along with a diced onion, a teaspoon of cumin, a half teaspoon of cinnamon, and a teaspoon of curry powder (or more to taste). Cook the vegetables and spices until the onion is soft, about three minutes. Add five cups of chicken broth or water and a cup of coconut milk; bring to a boil and cook for about six minutes or until the squash is tender and easily pierced with a knife. Serve the soup topped with fresh cilantro and crusty bread or a scoop of rice.
12.
Tomato Soup with Chickpeas and Greens
Fresh tomatoes and dried chickpeas cooked by you make this even better.
Drain a can of diced tomatoes and a can of chickpeas (if you cooked the chickpeas yourself, use some of their broth in the soup). Cook a diced onion, a diced carrot, and a diced stalk of celery in olive oil until soft. Add one crushed clove of garlic, the tomatoes, the beans, and about four cups of chicken or vegetable broth. Bring to a boil; add a bunch of chopped chard or beet greens (or spinach), reduce to a simmer, and cook for five more minutes. Meanwhile, brush sliced baguette or another good bread with olive oil, and toast. Serve soup with croutons on top.
13.
Broccoli Rabe and Garlic Soup
Some crushed dried chile flakes are nice here.
In a 450°F oven, roast a handful of smashed garlic cloves with a little olive oil for about five minutes. Bring about six cups of stock to a boil; add the garlic, stir in about a half cup of orzo or other small pasta, and a bunch of chopped broccoli rabe; continue cooking until the pasta and rabe are tender. Add lemon juice to taste, along with some salt and pepper. Serve, garnished with freshly grated Parmesan cheese if you like.
14.
Cream of Turnip Soup
This can be rich and creamy, or light and brothy.
Soften half a chopped onion in a couple of tablespoons of butter in a pot over medium heat, along with a smashed clove of garlic, two or three chopped white turnips, and a pinch of salt, for three to five minutes. Add six cups of hot broth, a quarter cup of cream, one bay leaf, and a teaspoon of tarragon, and bring to a boil. Simmer and cook until the turnips are tender, about five minutes. Add a cup of chopped turnip or other greens, stir until they wilt, and serve.
15.
Chile Sweet Potato Soup
Peel about a pound of sweet potatoes and grate or mince them in the food processor. Cook a couple minced cloves of garlic, some diced onion, and a chopped fresh chile in some olive oil until tender; stir in the sweet potatoes and add enough water to cover by about an inch. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a vigorous simmer, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sweet potatoes are tender. Stir in some fresh or dried sage and season with salt and pepper. Puree if you like, then add a splash of cream, heat through, and serve with croutons.
16.
Seafood Ramen
Shrimp, calamari, and scallops complement each other beautifully, but you can use any combination of seafood you like here.
Soak rice noodles in boiling water until tender (two to five minutes, depending on their size), drain, and set aside. Bring four cups of fish, chicken, or other stock and two cups of coconut milk to a boil. Add a pound of seafood to the pot along with a smashed clove of garlic, a handful of chopped scallions, a few dashes of fish sauce, and a thinly sliced hot red pepper. Continue cooking until the fish is done, about three minutes. Divide the noodles among bowls and ladle the soup over the noodles; serve topped with chopped cilantro and a squeeze of lime juice.
17.
Udon Noodle and Miso Soup with Fresh Shiitake Mushrooms
Make this heartier by adding a pound of seafood, sliced chicken breast or tofu, or thinly sliced beef.
Cook the udon noodles. Bring six cups of vegetable, mushroom, or chicken stock to a boil. Put one-third cup of miso in a bowl and add a ladleful of hot stock to it; whisk until smooth. Add the miso to the stock, along with three cups of sliced shiitake mushroom caps. Cook for about five minutes, then add the drained noodles, garnish with chopped scallions, and serve.
18.
Spinach Salad with Oranges and Goat Cheese
An instant favorite.
Heat the broiler. Finely chop a handful of pecans. Cut a log of goat cheese into half-inch disks; gently pat pecans on all sides of the goat cheese rounds and put them on a greased baking sheet. Broil on both sides until browned and warm, just a couple minutes. Peel two large oranges and separate into sections; thinly slice a small red onion. Whisk together about a quarter cup of olive oil, a few tablespoons of fresh orange juice, a teaspoon or so of mustard, salt, and pepper. In a large bowl, combine a big mound of well-washed spinach, the onion, and the orange slices; toss everything with the dressing and serve topped with a warm disk of pecan-crusted goat cheese.
19.
Endive and Warm Pear Salad with Stilton
Any good blue cheese can take the place of the Stilton here.
Cut three or four pears into eighths; toss them with a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, along with some salt and pepper. Thinly slice a shallot. Cook the pears and shallot in a skillet over medium-high heat until the pears are browning and the shallot slices are wilted; add a tablespoon of maple syrup during the last 30 seconds or so of cooking. Toss the warm pan mixture, and any remaining juices, in a bowl with endive and watercress (or any other greens you like), along with more olive oil and a bit of sherry vinegar. Garnish with crumbled Stilton and serve.
20.
Greek-Style Eggplant Salad
Peeling the eggplant isn’t necessary unless the skin is thick and tough.
Heat a broiler or grill (you can use a grill pan, but you’ll have to work in batches). Slice an eggplant into quarter-inch rounds; brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Broil or grill until seared on both sides and soft in the center, about five minutes. Thinly slice a small red onion. Put the eggplant, onion slices, crumbled feta cheese, a handful of pitted black olives (oil-cured are good here), and chopped fresh oregano in a bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper and serve over greens along with a big squeeze of lemon.
21.
Salad Lyonnaise
A classic.
Bring a pot of water to a gentle boil. Cut bacon or pancetta into small pieces, fry until crisp, and set aside. In a small bowl, combine about a quarter cup of olive oil, a couple of tablespoons of red wine vinegar, a teaspoon of Dijon mustard, salt, and pepper. Crack eggs into the boiling water and poach them for about three minutes, or until set on the outside but still runny on the inside. Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and drain completely. Toss a few handfuls of frisée or romaine with the bacon and the dressing and serve with a poached egg on top.
22.
Tofu Salad
If you like egg salad, try this.
In a large bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, mustard, soy sauce, and rice wine vinegar with some salt and pepper. Stir in chopped scallions, celery, red bell pepper, and some fresh minced chile if you like. Use your fingers to crumble firm tofu into the bowl and toss with a fork to combine and mash, adding more dressing ingredients if the mixture seems too dry. Serve the salad on a bed of watercress or Bibb lettuce, or rolled up in warmed whole wheat flour tortillas.
23.
Hummus with Pita
There is really no reason to ever buy hummus; homemade is undeniably better, even if you start with canned chickpeas.
Drain a can of chickpeas (or cook some) and reserve the liquid. In a food processor, puree the chickpeas with a few tablespoons of olive oil, a couple of tablespoons of tahini (optional), a large clove of garlic (more or less), a few tablespoons of freshly squeezed lemon juice, and about a teaspoon of cumin, along with salt and pepper. Slowly add chickpea liquid—or water or more oil—until you have a smooth puree; adjust the seasonings. Serve on toasted pita, drizzled with more olive oil and sprinkled with paprika.
24.
Tuna Sandwich with Fennel and Tarragon
If you don’t have tarragon, chop up some of the fennel fronds and toss them in.
Dice a bulb of fennel and a shallot or red onion. In a bowl, mix together about half a cup of plain yogurt, the fennel, the shallot, a drained can of tuna packed in oil, a teaspoon of chopped fresh tarragon, salt, and pepper. Serve in pita pockets, or rolled in large romaine lettuce leaves, with lemon wedges on the side.
25.
White Bean Toasts
Think of this as the Italian version of hummus.
Drain a can of cannellini or other white beans (or cook them yourself), reserving the liquid. In a food processor, puree the beans, some olive oil, a couple of teaspoons of fresh rosemary, fresh lemon juice, salt, and pepper; process until smooth, adding the reserved bean liquid as needed for consistency. Chop a handful of dried tomatoes (they can be dried or reconstituted) into thin strips. Spread the bean mixture on toasted peasant bread, top with a few bits of the tomatoes, and serve.
26.
Kale and Prosciutto Sandwich
This sandwich gets even better topped with a few slices of roasted red peppers or softened dried tomatoes.
Roll four leaves of kale and slice them into half-inch ribbons. Cook in olive oil until wilted and softened; season with fresh lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Toast slices of sourdough or other good-quality bread; spread the toasts with goat cheese and a heaping spoonful of the kale; top with a slice of prosciutto.
27.
Panini with Mushrooms and Fontina
If you can make grilled cheese, you can make panini; just use another pan or lid to press on the sandwich while it cooks in a skillet.
Cook about two cups of sliced mushrooms in butter; season with fresh oregano or thyme, salt, and pepper. When the mushrooms have released their liquid and dried out, divide the vegetable mixture among slices of good-quality whole grain bread with thinly sliced fontina or other semi-hard cheese on top; add another slice of bread on top and brush the outside of both sides with olive oil or softened butter if you like. Cook the sandwich in whatever press you have until the bread is toasted and the cheese is melted, adjusting the heat as needed.
28.
Gruyère Apple Grilled Cheese
Add a couple bacon slices for smokiness (and, of course, meatiness!).
Butter slices of good-quality sourdough bread. Layer Gruyère cheese and thinly sliced tart apples and top with another slice of the buttered bread. Cook the sandwiches in a few tablespoons of melted butter—you can use a press or an ordinary skillet with a bit of weight on top of the sandwich—turning once, until the cheese has melted and the bread is golden brown on both sides, about eight minutes total.
29.
Figs in a Blanket
The name says it all.
Heat the broiler (you can grill these too). In a small pot, bring a cup of red wine, a few tablespoons of honey, a cinnamon stick, and a rosemary sprig to a boil. Wrap half of a fresh fig in half a slice of bacon. Arrange the figs on an oven-safe pan and broil for several minutes per side, until well browned. Serve with the reduced sauce.
30.
Turkey and Pear Wrap with Curried Aioli
Leftover homemade turkey is ideal, but good-quality deli turkey is fine.
Mix half a cup of mayonnaise (or plain yogurt) with some minced garlic and about a teaspoon of curry powder. Lightly toast flour tortillas in a skillet for about 20 seconds per side. Spread the aioli on the tortillas; evenly layer a lettuce leaf, a thin slice of red onion, thinly sliced pears, and some turkey on top. Roll the tortillas tightly, cut them on the bias, and serve.
31.
Eggplant, Kalamata, Goat Cheese, and Dried Tomato Sandwich
You can sear the eggplant in olive oil if you like.
Heat the broiler or a grill. Slice an eggplant into one-inch rounds and lightly brush both sides of the rounds with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Broil or grill for two or three minutes per side, or until golden and softening in the center. In a food processor or blender, puree about a cup of pitted Kalamata olives, some dried tomatoes, and a couple of tablespoons of olive oil to form a paste. Spread goat cheese on ciabatta or other bread; top with a smear of the olive paste and a slice of eggplant.
32.
Seared Cauliflower with Olives and Breadcrumbs
To make this more substantial, start the recipe by frying a sausage or two (or a couple of chunked chicken thighs) in the pan first; break the meat into chunks as it cooks.
Core and roughly chop a head of cauliflower. Heat a film of olive oil in a large skillet over high heat and cook the cauliflower undisturbed, until it browns a little and begins to soften. Add a tablespoon of minced garlic and a handful of pitted olives; cook and stir for a couple of minutes, until the dish comes together and gets fragrant, adding a few more drops of oil to the pan as needed. Add fresh breadcrumbs and keep stirring until they’re toasted. Taste and sprinkle with salt if needed, lots of black pepper, and some chopped parsley. Serve hot or at room temperature with lemon wedges.
33.
Broiled Brussels Sprouts with Hazelnuts
For something meatier, fry up a couple of slices of bacon or some diced pancetta and add it along with the hazelnuts.
Heat the broiler. Trim about a pound of Brussels sprouts and pulse in a food processor—or use a knife—to chop them up a bit. Spread out on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with two tablespoons olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss. Broil the sprouts for about five minutes, until browning on the edges. Meanwhile, pulse a handful of hazelnuts (or chop them). Shake the pan to flip the sprouts; add the nuts and broil for another three minutes. Sprinkle with freshly squeezed lemon juice and plenty of fresh parsley.
34.
Flatbread Pizza with Figs, Goat Cheese, and Balsamic
Ripe figs make all the difference here, as does good balsamic vinegar.
Slice a couple of handfuls of figs into quarters. Brush olive oil on lavash or other flatbread and dot generously with goat cheese; spread the figs evenly on top of the cheese. Bake in a 450°F oven until the cheese melts and the figs soften. Drizzle with a tiny bit of balsamic and serve.
35.
Root Vegetable Stir-fry
For a more substantial meal, add strips of cooked chicken when you add the spices.
Use a food processor or box grater to shred a pound or so of one or more root vegetables: waxy potatoes, sweet potatoes, celery root, rutabaga, alone or in combination. Squeeze the shreds dry with your hands. Put a thin layer of vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s super hot, add a layer of the vegetables and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Stir-fry without stirring too much so that the shreds brown a bit and clump together. When the vegetables are just tender, season with curry or five-spice powder; stir a couple of times, remove to a serving plate, and repeat in batches with the remaining vegetables. Garnish with chopped cilantro or scallions and serve.
36.
Spiced Vegetables with Raisins
To make this a little more festive, serve on a bed of couscous topped with fresh mint and chopped pistachios.
In a couple tablespoons of olive oil, cook a sliced zucchini; a carrot (chopped into one-inch rounds); a couple garlic cloves, lightly crushed; a teaspoon each of cumin and ginger; half a teaspoon cinnamon; and some salt. Cook for about three minutes. Add a small can of tomato paste and a half cup or so of water, and stir until blended. Add two cups of precooked chickpeas (canned are fine), a handful or two of raisins, the juice of a lemon, and a little more water if necessary; cover and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the carrot is tender, about five minutes; then adjust the seasoning and serve.
37.
Butter Beans with Prosciutto and Mushrooms
Grate fresh Parmesan over this before serving if you like.
Cut a few slices of prosciutto into pieces about an inch wide, then cook it in a little olive oil until just crisp, about two minutes; remove and set aside. Add a cup or so of sliced mushrooms and drained precooked or canned (or frozen) butter beans to the pan. (There should be some fat left in the pan from the prosciutto; if not, add more olive oil.) Cook until the mushrooms soften a bit, three to five minutes. Add a quarter cup of white wine and continue cooking until the liquid reduces slightly. Sprinkle the vegetables with salt and pepper and serve, topped with the prosciutto.
38.
Stir-fried Mixed Vegetables with Ginger
Replace the broccoli with cauliflower, broccoli rabe, broccolini, or even celery.
Cut broccoli into florets and bok choy into strips. Blanch the broccoli in salted boiling water until crisp-tender; shock in ice water to stop the cooking; drain. Heat two tablespoons of sesame oil in a big skillet; add a tablespoon of freshly grated ginger and some minced garlic and stir; add a few chopped scallions, a diced fresh red chile, a few tablespoons of oyster sauce, a pinch of sugar, and the juice of a lime. Stir to combine well; add the broccoli florets and bok choy strips. Cook until the sauce is reduced slightly and coats the vegetables; add a bit of soy sauce, season with salt and pepper if necessary, and serve over noodles or rice.
39.
Garlicky Rabe with Pancetta and Pine Nuts
Adding more garlic is perfectly acceptable; the same goes for the chile flakes; and of course you can follow these directions for almost any vegetable.
Chop about a quarter pound of pancetta into small pieces and cook in a bit of olive oil until just turning brown, about three minutes. Add some minced garlic and a pinch or two of red chile flakes; continue cooking for another minute or two until the garlic is soft and fragrant. Roughly chop a bunch of rabe and add it to the pancetta: raise the heat a bit and add a splash of water to make some steam. Continue cooking, stirring and adding more water or oil as needed until the rabe is heated and crisp-tender. Adjust the seasonings, toss with toasted pine nuts, and serve.
40.
Fried Endive with Butter and Lemon Sauce
An elegant side dish for almost any fish or meat.
Trim endive heads and halve lengthwise. Cook them in boiling salted water with a squeeze of lemon added for about three minutes. Drain and dip the pieces in milk, then in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Cook in a few tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat for about two minutes per side; set aside. Add a few tablespoons of butter to the pan and continue cooking until it starts to brown, about 30 seconds. Add freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste and chopped parsley; let the sauce continue cooking to thicken a bit. Serve the sauce drizzled over the endive.
41.
Eggplant Stir-fry
Hoisin sauce (think of it as Chinese ketchup) is the main condiment for Peking duck and mu shu pork; it also makes a great dipping sauce for spring rolls.
Dice a medium-size eggplant into one-inch pieces and slice bok choy into strips. Cut firm tofu into one-inch cubes. Cook a teaspoon or so of grated ginger and minced garlic in sesame oil for about two minutes; remove. Add the eggplant and tofu to the pan and continue to cook until both begin to brown (work in batches if the pan is too crowded and add more oil as needed). Add the bok choy and the garlic and ginger, along with a few tablespoons of hoisin sauce and a little water; stir, then cook until the bok choy is wilted. Top with chopped scallions and serve with rice.
42.
Northern Beans with Spanish Chorizo
You can use any cooked sausage you like here, but chorizo is special.
Cut chorizo (Spanish smoked, not Mexican raw) into quarter-inch pieces and sear until slightly browned. Mix together some drained precooked or canned great northern beans or other white beans, a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, and a handful of chopped parsley. Add the chorizo and serve with crusty bread and a mound of arugula.
43.
Crisp Tofu ’n’ Bok Choy
They’ll take a few minutes longer to cook, but eggplant, broccoli, or green beans can all be substituted for the bok choy, with great results.
Cut firm tofu into thin slices. Shallow-fry the tofu in oil until it browns on both sides. Drain on paper towels; pour off the excess oil (you want about two tablespoons left in the pan). Cook some minced garlic and a teaspoon or so of freshly grated ginger for about a minute before adding a few handfuls of sliced bok choy; continue cooking the bok choy until soft. Add the tofu to the pan to warm and serve over rice or noodles.
44.
Eggplant Rolls
These can be served with tomato sauce, but a drizzle of good balsamic is all they really need.
Heat a grill pan or skillet. Trim a large eggplant and cut into quarter-inch-thick slices lengthwise. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook with olive oil over medium heat until golden brown and quite tender. Stir together about a cup of ricotta cheese and half a cup grated Parmesan cheese; add a handful of chopped fresh basil and some salt and pepper, and mix well. Spread a few tablespoons of the cheese mixture on each slice of eggplant, roll up, and serve.
45.
Braised Fish with Zucchini
Leave the skin on the fish if at all possible.
Season any sturdy fillets or steaks with salt and pepper. Slice a couple of zucchinis into disks; dice a couple of tomatoes (canned are fine). Heat a few tablespoons of oil in a skillet and cook the fillets, skin side down, until crisp, three minutes or a little longer; remove the fish. Add about a cup of white wine (or, even better, half white wine and half fish stock) to the pan along with the zucchinis and tomatoes and bring to a boil; reduce to a simmer and put the fish back in the pan on top of the vegetables, skin side up. Continue cooking until a thin-bladed knife pierces the fish with little resistance; put the fish in shallow bowls and stir some grated lemon zest and parsley into the sauce. Put the vegetables and broth in the bowls with the fish, drizzle with olive oil and a bit more salt and pepper, and serve.
46.
Walnut-Coated Fish
Pretty much any nuts—pecans, hazelnuts, peanuts, and pistachios—can be used to make this type of crust.
Heat the oven to 400°F. Put about a cup of walnuts in a food processor and pulse a few times until the nuts are just ground, but not too fine. Add a small handful of parsley, a tablespoon or two of chopped thyme (or a teaspoon dried), salt, and a pinch of cayenne; pulse another once or twice to combine. Slice any sturdy fish fillets into large pieces and rub with olive oil, then press the walnut mixture on it to form a crust. Put in an ovenproof dish, drizzle with more olive oil, and cook, turning once, until golden brown and done in the middle, six to 12 minutes depending on their thickness. Serve on a bed of watercress with lemon wedges or vinaigrette.
47.
Baked Fish with Oregano, Lemon, and Olives
Very classic.
Heat the oven to 475°F. Score the skin of some fish fillets (any kind, really). In a mortar and pestle or small food processor, mix together a few cloves of garlic, salt, pepper, and a tablespoon or two of fresh marjoram or oregano; add some olive oil and lemon juice to make a paste. Smear the paste on the fish, covering it well. Bake the fish skin side up for about eight minutes, or until a thin-bladed knife pierces it with little resistance. Chop a handful of good-quality black olives and a little more herb and scatter them over the fish before serving.
48.
Salmon and Sweet Potato with Coconut Curry Sauce
Use a spicy curry powder or a pinch of cayenne if you want more heat.
Heat some vegetable oil and cook a thinly sliced onion and a minced clove of garlic for a couple of minutes until soft; add a tablespoon or so of curry powder and stir until fragrant. Add a can of coconut milk, a couple of diced sweet potatoes, a generous squeeze of lime juice, a few dashes of fish sauce if you like, and some minced fresh ginger; bring to a boil and simmer until the sweet potato is almost tender, about five minutes. Cut a couple of skinless salmon fillets into half-inch cubes and add them to the pan; reduce to a simmer and cook until the fish is just done, about five minutes more. Garnish with fresh chopped cilantro and serve over basmati rice.
49.
Seared Tuna with Capers and Tomatoes
Don’t overcook the tuna, or it will become dry.
Sprinkle tuna steaks with salt and pepper, then sear in a very hot skillet or grill pan with a little olive oil, just a minute or so on each side. Add a couple of diced tomatoes (canned are fine), a few tablespoons of freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice, and a tablespoon or two of capers. Cover and reduce the heat to medium for about two minutes; you want to just warm the tomatoes while the tuna cooks a bit more. Serve the tomato-caper sauce spooned over the tuna.
50.
Stir-fried Shrimp with Chestnuts and Napa Cabbage
Frozen chestnuts work nicely in this dish.
Cook a tablespoon each of minced garlic and freshly grated ginger in a couple of tablespoons of hot vegetable oil until they sizzle; add a few handfuls of thinly sliced napa cabbage and cook, stirring, until it just starts to wilt. Add a cup or so of peeled cooked and chopped chestnuts and a handful of shrimp (chopped if they’re large). Reduce the heat and continue cooking until the shrimp turn pink, about three minutes. Add two or three tablespoons of water, then soy sauce and sesame oil to taste; top with cilantro and serve.
51.
Pan-Seared Fish with Spicy Lime Butter
Or try mixing the butter with chopped herbs, capers, anchovies, or roasted garlic (alone or in combination).
Stir together about a half stick of softened butter, a finely chopped shallot, the zest of a lime and a good squeeze of its juice, a minced red chile, and a pinch or two of salt. Pat any type of fish fillets dry, season them with salt, and cook them quickly in a tablespoon each of olive oil and butter. Turn the fish once and cook until golden and cooked through, about five minutes. Serve the fillets with a generous spoonful of the compound butter on top.
52.
Seared Scallops with Almonds
“Dry” sea scallops are the best.
Sprinkle about a pound of scallops with salt and pepper. Heat a couple of tablespoons of butter until the foam subsides; add the scallops and cook for about two minutes on each side, until nicely browned but still quite rare; remove and set aside. Add a handful of chopped almonds to the same pan and cook, stirring, until the nuts brown. Add a half cup or so of dry white wine and cook over high heat until it’s reduced to a syrup; add a bit more cold butter to thicken the sauce. Serve the sauce over the scallops, garnished with chopped parsley.
53.
Mussels in Tomato–White Bean Sauce
A handful of diced Spanish chorizo gives an extra boost if you want one.
Cook a clove or two of minced garlic in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil over low heat for about two minutes, or until fragrant. Add a large chopped tomato (a couple of canned ones are fine), two cups of drained precooked or canned white beans, and two to four pounds of cleaned mussels. Cook, covered, for about five minutes, or until all the mussels open (discard those that don’t). Sprinkle the mussels with chopped parsley and serve with lemon wedges and good crusty bread.
54.
Sesame Shrimp Toasts
Better than any version you’ve had in a restaurant.
Heat the oven to 475°F. Slice a baguette in half lengthwise, put the halves face up on a baking sheet, and set them in the oven while it heats. Put shrimp in a food processor with some butter, scallions, soy sauce, a few drops of sesame oil, and a pinch each of sugar and salt. Pulse until the mixture forms a chunky paste. Smear the shrimp paste all over the bread and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake until the shrimp paste is pink and cooked through and the bread is crisp, about 10 minutes. Cool a bit, then cut up and serve with a salad.
55.
Braised Chicken with Olives and Raisins
Toasted pine nuts make a terrific garnish.
In a food processor, combine about a quarter cup of olive oil, a tablespoon of chopped fresh oregano, a handful of raisins, a handful of pitted green olives, a quarter cup of dry white wine, and a pinch or two of salt; pulse a couple of times—you want large pieces, not a paste. Sear chicken cutlets in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, about two minutes on each side. Lower the heat, add the olive-raisin sauce, then cover and cook until the chicken is cooked through. Garnish with chopped parsley or toasted pine nuts.
56.
Stir-fried Chicken with Nuts
Cashews are my favorite, but peanuts or walnuts do just as well.
Put vegetable oil in a large skillet over high heat; when it’s almost smoking, add about a pound of cut-up boneless chicken and sear without disturbing for about a minute; stir and cook for another minute. When the pieces are well browned, remove from the pan and pour in a little more oil if you need it. Add a sliced red bell pepper, a chopped onion, and some minced ginger or garlic and cook another few minutes, stirring only when necessary, until the vegetables wilt. Return the chicken to the pan, along with about a cup of halved cashews, a couple of tablespoons of water, and a few tablespoons of hoisin sauce. Continue cooking until the sauce bubbles and everything is well coated. Serve, sprinkled with a few chopped cashews or some chopped cilantro, or both.
57.
Lavender-Thyme Braised Chicken
Rosemary is easier to find than lavender and works just as well, but lavender is a nice change if you can find it.
Season chicken cutlets with salt and pepper, then sear them in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil on both sides until brown, about four minutes total; set aside. Add a tablespoon more of olive oil or butter to the pan, along with some minced garlic, a tablespoon of crushed lavender flowers (or a tablespoon of finely minced fresh rosemary), and a teaspoon of fresh thyme; cook for about a minute. Add a half cup (or more) of Riesling and deglaze the pan. Add the chicken, cover, and continue cooking until it’s done, another four minutes or so. Spoon the sauce over the chicken.
58.
Chicken with Sweet-and-Sour Sherry Sauce
Also great with pork.
Heat the broiler. In a little olive oil, cook about a cup of roughly chopped shiitake or button mushrooms and about a quarter cup of chopped shallots until the mushrooms are browning on the edges. Add a couple of teaspoons each of honey and sherry vinegar and cook for about a minute, stirring to combine. Add about a quarter cup of dry sherry and a half cup of chicken stock and cook five more minutes, continuing to stir. Meanwhile, sprinkle quarter-inch-thick boneless, skinless chicken cutlets with salt and pepper, rub them in olive oil, and broil, turning once, until done, about six minutes. Spoon the sauce over the chicken and serve.
59.
Grilled Chicken with Prosciutto and Figs
One of my favorite flavor combinations.
Heat a grill or grill pan. Pound chicken cutlets to a quarter-inch thickness; season with salt and pepper. Grill the chicken, turning once, for about five minutes or until cooked through. Slice a handful of fresh figs in half and grill them, flesh side down, until soft and warm. Put slices of prosciutto on the chicken cutlets to warm for a few seconds; serve with the grilled figs and a drizzle of good-quality balsamic.
60.
Chicken Curry in a Hurry
Add more curry if you like.
In about a tablespoon of oil, cook a sliced onion, teaspoon of curry powder and some salt and pepper for about three minutes. Season chicken tenders with salt, pepper, and more curry powder. Nestle the chicken between the onions, and cook for about two minutes on each side; remove the chicken and set aside. Add a cup of plain yogurt (or sour cream if you want it a bit richer) to the pan and stir, cooking for another minute or so (do not boil). Return the chicken to the pan and cook for another few minutes, turning once, until everything is cooked and warmed through. Adjust the seasonings and serve over couscous or jasmine rice.
61
Chicken Puttanesca
Cut chicken cutlets into half-inch pieces and toss them with salt and pepper. Chop six or more olive-oil-packed anchovies. Use a bit of the anchovy oil mixed with olive oil to cook the chicken and diced anchovies, cooking until the chicken turns white, about three minutes. Add a tablespoon of minced garlic, a can of crushed tomatoes, a handful of chopped black olives, a few tablespoons of capers, and a pinch of crushed red chile flakes. Cook until the sauce thickens and the chicken is cooked through, just a few minutes. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve.
62.
Sesame-Glazed Grilled Chicken
Serve with wilted bok choy or steamed broccoli.
Heat the grill or grill pan. Pound chicken breasts to a quarter-inch thickness. Mix together minced garlic, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, sesame oil, and cayenne to make a thin paste. Brush on the chicken and grill (or broil) until cooked through, turning once, about five minutes. Lightly toast sesame seeds in a dry pan until just starting to color. Sprinkle the chicken with the sesame seeds and garnish with chopped scallion.
63.
Chicken Teriyaki Skewers
Make this, too, with salmon, tuna, beef, or pork.
Cut a pound of chicken thighs or breasts into chunks; thread them on skewers. Combine four tablespoons of soy sauce, four tablespoons of mirin (or honey thinned with water), two tablespoons of sake, two tablespoons of sugar, and a few gratings of fresh ginger in a bowl. Put the skewers on the grill or under the broiler and baste them with the sauce every couple of minutes; continue cooking (and basting) until the meat is cooked through and a little blackened outside, about eight minutes total.
64.
Braised Pork with Rosemary
These chops won’t dry out as long as you don’t overcook them.
Rub boneless pork steaks or pork chops with olive oil, a clove or two of minced garlic, a tablespoon of fresh rosemary, and some salt and pepper. Sear in butter or oil until just brown on both sides; remove and deglaze the pan with a cup or so of dry white wine over high heat, being sure to scrape up all the brown bits left from the pork. Return the chops to the pan, along with any juices, reduce the heat, and cover. Continue cooking until the chops are barely pink inside, just a couple of minutes. Remove from the pan, turn up the heat, and reduce the liquid to a syrup; add a tablespoon or two of butter to thicken the sauce and adjust the seasonings. Serve the chops topped with the sauce and garnished with a little more rosemary.
65.
Fennel-Orange Braised Pork
The anise and citrus flavors in this preparation also work well with firm white fish.
Sprinkle boneless half-inch-thick pork chops with salt and pepper. Slice a bulb of fennel and an onion very thinly—a mandoline works well here—and break a peeled orange into segments. In some olive oil, sear the pork chops for about two minutes on each side; set aside. Add the fennel, onion, and orange to the pan and cook for a couple of minutes. Add a half cup of freshly squeezed orange juice and return the pork chops to the pan; cover and continue simmering for another six minutes or so, until the pork is cooked to desired doneness (add a little more juice, or some water or white wine, if necessary). Serve the pork with the sauce, fennel, onion, and orange slices; garnish with minced fennel fronds.
66.
Grilled Pork with Shredded Brussels Sprouts
Use a mandoline or slicing blade on a food processor to make quick work of shredding the sprouts.
Heat the grill or a grill pan. Rub boneless pork steaks with some minced garlic, salt, and pepper. Very thinly slice about two cups of Brussels sprouts. Heat a few tablespoons of butter, add the shredded sprouts, and cook until just wilted but still crisp-tender, about five minutes. Add a few tablespoons of freshly squeezed lemon juice, a tablespoon of poppy seeds, salt, and pepper. Meanwhile, grill the chops until brown on both sides but still a bit pink in the middle; serve on the sprouts.
67.
Sausage and Cabbage
Savoy or napa cabbage makes this a bit more delicate.
Cut some sausages into chunks and cook them in a large skillet with some olive oil over medium-high heat until crisp and almost done, five to seven minutes. Drain off any excess fat, then add some minced garlic and a small head of sliced cabbage to the pan along with a splash of red wine or water and a sprig of thyme if you have it. Cover and cook for about four minutes. Remove the lid and keep stirring and cooking until the cabbage is tender and the sausages are cooked through. Serve with baked potatoes or thick slices of whole grain toast and lots of mustard.
68.
Sausage with Red Lentils
Red lentils cook very quickly, so you’ll want to keep an eye on them.
Slice a couple of sausages and cook them in a bit of olive oil until just beginning to brown; add a chopped onion, a chopped carrot, some minced garlic, and fresh thyme leaves. Cook a cup or so of lentils until done but not falling apart. Whisk together about a quarter cup of olive oil, a couple of tablespoons of red wine vinegar, a bit of Dijon mustard, salt, and pepper. Drain the lentils and add them to the sausage and vegetable mixture; toss with some of the vinaigrette, adding more as needed, and serve.
69.
Pork Tacos with Apple-Fennel Slaw
Pork from the shoulder is best here; and if you can’t find fennel, use celery.
Heat a grill or grill pan. In a small bowl, combine a tablespoon each sugar, cumin, chili powder, and paprika, and a bit of salt; rub it into slices of pork. Slice a tart apple and a bulb of fennel (this is a great time to use a mandoline if you have one). Toss the apples and fennel with olive oil and lemon juice. Grill the pork, turning once, until browned and cooked; cut into strips and serve it in warm corn tortillas along with the slaw.
70.
West Indian Pork Kebabs
Fresh fruit salsa is the perfect side here; try chopped citrus, pineapple, or mango mixed with some red onion, cilantro, chile, salt, and pepper.
Heat the broiler. In a bowl, combine some minced garlic, about a half teaspoon of ground allspice, a pinch of nutmeg, some fresh thyme leaves, a chopped small onion, and the juice of a lime. Toss this mixture with about a pound of pork shoulder cut into one-inch cubes. Thread the pork onto skewers and broil for about six minutes or until cooked through, turning to brown all sides evenly.
71.
Ham Steak with Redeye Gravy
A great way to use the morning’s leftover coffee.
Sear a thick ham steak in a hot skillet with a fair amount of butter or olive oil. Remove the ham and use the fat to soften a sliced onion. Add some flour to the pan to coat the onion in a paste, and when the flour begins to turn golden, pour in a cup or so of coffee and stir until it thickens into a sauce. Return the ham to the pan to heat through, then serve the steak with some of the sauce and onion on top.
72.
Grilled Steak with Gorgonzola Sauce
Stilton, Roquefort, Maytag, or any good blue can fill in for Gorgonzola.
Heat the grill or a grill pan. Season a three-quarter-inch-thick steak with salt and pepper. In a small pan, heat a cup of white wine, a couple of handfuls of crumbled Gorgonzola, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg; cook until creamy and slightly reduced. Grill the steak, turning once, to the desired doneness. Serve the steak sliced and drizzled with the Gorgonzola sauce.
73.
Miso Burgers
Really more like mini meat loaves.
Mix about a pound and a half of ground beef (or pork) with a tablespoon of dark miso, a handful of panko, and some chopped scallions. Form several fat burgers and sear them on both sides in a little hot vegetable oil. When browned, add a splash each of sake and soy sauce to the pan, lower the heat, cover, and cook to desired doneness. Serve the burgers and pan sauce over rice or somen, with pickles on the side.
74.
Beef Paillards with Leeks and Capers
Grill the steak quickly and don’t let it overcook.
Heat the grill or a grill pan. Cut beef tenderloin into four-ounce pieces and pound them to a quarter-inch thickness; season with salt and pepper. Slice several leeks into coins (be sure to rinse well) and toss with olive oil, lemon juice, and a spoonful of capers; partially cover and cook in the microwave until tender and juicy, just a couple of minutes. Grill the steaks over high heat (in batches if you need to) for a minute or less per side. Serve topped with the leek mixture.
75.
Beef Stir-fry with Ginger Noodles
I like rice vermicelli best here, but any thickness will work; you’ll have to boil them for a few minutes though.
Soak thin rice noodles in boiling water until soft, about 10 minutes; drain. In a tablespoon of sesame oil, cook about a tablespoon of grated ginger and a handful of chopped scallions for a couple of minutes, or until softened. Toss the ginger mixture with the noodles and set aside. In some vegetable oil, stir-fry thinly sliced beef for about two minutes; add a couple of handfuls of bean sprouts and cook for another two minutes. Add a little water and a little soy sauce and continue cooking until the sauce coats the beef and vegetables. Serve the beef and vegetables over the noodles.
76.
Lamb Chops with Cranberry-Rosemary Reduction
The perfect accompaniment is wild rice, but you’ll need considerably more time if you go that route.
Combine a couple of cups of cranberries, a couple of tablespoons of brown sugar, a cinnamon stick, a sprig of fresh rosemary, and about a half cup of brandy in a saucepan and bring to a boil; continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is reduced to syrupy consistency, about 10 minutes. Season lamb chops with salt and pepper; in a skillet with a couple of tablespoons of butter, cook the chops, turning once, for about eight minutes total (you want them well browned but still pink on the inside). Serve the lamb chops drizzled with the cranberry-rosemary sauce.
77.
Grilled Lamb Steak and White Bean Mash
The bean mash is a perfect bed for the lovely lamb juices.
Heat the grill or broiler; season lamb steaks (from the shoulder preferably, or the leg) with salt and pepper. In a food processor, puree a can of cannellini beans (reserving the liquid) or precooked beans, a large clove of garlic, a tablespoon or two of fresh rosemary, a few tablespoons of olive oil, and freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste. Add a few tablespoons of the reserved bean liquid as needed (half-and-half, cream, stock, oil, or water will all work, too) to get a nice smooth consistency. Season the bean mash with salt and (lots of) pepper and add more lemon juice if needed. Grill or broil the steaks until done (medium or so is best). Slice the steaks and serve alongside the white bean mash.
78.
Braised Lamb Chops with Prunes
Serve with good crusty bread.
Chop a handful of prunes (if they’re really tough, soak them in water for a few minutes first). Rub not-too-thin lamb chops with a spice mixture of ground cinnamon, ginger, cloves, salt, and pepper; cook chops in olive oil, turning once, for just a couple of minutes. Add the prunes and a glass of port, red wine, stock, or water; cover and cook until just done. Remove the chops and reduce the liquid to a syrupy consistency. Serve the chops topped with the prunes and liquid.
79.
Moroccan Lamb Chops with Couscous
A lot of chopping, but not much cooking.
Heat the broiler. Season lamb chops with some oregano, cumin, salt, and pepper; put them in one half of a shallow roasting pan. In a bowl, toss together a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, a few smashed cloves of garlic, a couple of handfuls of cherry tomatoes, a small eggplant, cubed, a sliced zucchini, salt, and pepper. When mixed, put the vegetables in the other side of the roasting pan. Broil the lamb and vegetables for about eight minutes; turn the lamb once and toss the vegetables so they brown on all sides. Serve the vegetables on a bed of couscous along with the lamb.
80.
Pasta with Balsamic Onions
This would be a cliché if it weren’t so damn good.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it; meanwhile, in a tablespoon or so of olive oil, sear a couple of sliced onions until nicely browned, stirring almost all the time. Splash some balsamic vinegar over all and sprinkle with salt and lots of black pepper; reduce the heat so the mixture thickens into a sauce. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water; toss the pasta with the onion sauce, adding some of the reserved cooking water as needed to moisten and serve; Parmesan cheese is optional.
81.
Pasta with Herbed Ricotta and Dried Cherries
For some crunch, garnish with finely chopped hazelnuts.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it; meanwhile, chop a handful of fresh parsley, some oregano, and a few sage leaves. Mix the herbs with a cup of fresh ricotta and about a half cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese; season with salt and pepper. In a tablespoon or two of butter over low heat, cook a couple of handfuls of dried cherries and a splash of red wine until the cherries soften a bit, about three minutes. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the cherry mixture and stir to coat, adding some of the reserved cooking water to make a sauce; taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve the pasta with a dollop of the herbed ricotta on top.
82.
Mushroom Pasta
Some reconstituted porcini added to the fresh mushrooms give this a terrific earthiness.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it; meanwhile, slice about two cups of fresh mushrooms and cook them in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil with some salt and pepper. When they’re dry, add about half a cup of white wine and some minced garlic; cook until the wine reduces and the garlic mellows. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Toss the pasta with the mushrooms along with a handful of freshly chopped parsley; add cooking water if needed to moisten the sauce. Serve with lots of freshly ground pepper and grated Parmesan cheese.
83.
Cheesy Corn Bread Dumplings
Enrich the cooking liquid with leftover chicken, beans, or cut-up vegetables.
Bring a deep skillet of salted water or chicken stock to a boil. Mix together a cup each of flour and cornmeal, with a teaspoon of baking powder and a pinch each of baking soda and salt. Beat an egg with a little buttermilk and a couple of handfuls of grated cheddar. Stir the wet mixture into the dry, adding a little more buttermilk or flour as needed to create a stiff biscuit-like batter. With the help of a rubber spatula, drop large spoonfuls of the mixture into the liquid; bring to a steady simmer; cover and cook until set and a toothpick comes out clean, about 10 minutes. Fish the dumplings out with a slotted spoon and serve, garnished with chopped parsley and some of the stock if you used it.
84.
Penne with Vodka Sauce
A contemporary classic.
Boil salted water for pasta and undercook it slightly; meanwhile, use a big skillet coated with olive oil to cook some minced garlic, a pinch or two of red chile flakes, and a pinch of salt until the garlic is soft and fragrant. Add a can of tomatoes (that you’ve crushed or chopped a bit) and simmer for about five minutes, then add about a quarter cup each of vodka and cream. Drain the pasta and add it to the pan; toss the pasta well and give it a minute or so to absorb the sauce. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with chopped parsley.
85.
Pasta with Spinach, Currants, and Pine Nuts
Use raisins if you must; and cut pasta (like farfalle or fusilli) really works best here.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it; meanwhile, toast a couple of handfuls of pine nuts in a dry pan until just fragrant and golden; set aside. In a few tablespoons of olive oil, cook a bunch of chopped spinach until wilted; season with salt and pepper. Add two handfuls of currants and continue to cook until warmed through. Drain the pasta (reserving some of the cooking water) and toss it with some olive oil and the spinach mixture, using enough of the water to moisten everything. Garnish with the toasted pine nuts and serve.
86.
Spicy Pork with Soba Noodles
Soba noodles cook in less than five minutes.
Boil salted water for the noodles and cook them; meanwhile, cut boneless pork into thin strips; toss with salt, pepper, and five-spice powder. In a couple of tablespoons of vegetable oil, stir-fry the pork until it’s cooked through, about three minutes. Add a bit more oil and a couple of tablespoons each of soy sauce and rice wine vinegar; cook for 30 seconds more. Drain the noodles and put in a bowl. Top with the pork, a handful of thinly sliced scallions, a handful of chopped cilantro, and a few sliced daikon radishes; season with salt and pepper and serve.
87.
Pasta with Fried Eggs
Add crumbled bacon, some fried pancetta, or a cup of breadcrumbs toasted in olive oil for a bit of crunch.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it; meanwhile, fry four eggs in butter, keeping them very runny. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water, and toss it with a few tablespoons of olive oil or butter, lots of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, salt, pepper, and enough of the reserved water to moisten; top with the fried eggs. Roughly cut the eggs up and toss the pasta again to serve.
88.
Pasta Gratinée
Mac-n-cheese, only more substantial.
Heat the broiler. Bring small cubes of waxy potatoes and a couple of cloves of garlic to a boil in a big pot of salted water; when the water boils, add a pound of cut pasta (like penne or rigatoni). Cook for about four minutes, then add some chopped cabbage. In a couple of minutes more, the pasta should be al dente and the potatoes tender. Drain and drizzle some olive oil over everything, season it with salt and pepper, and toss a couple of times. Transfer the mixture to a shallow ovenproof pan or dish, sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese and breadcrumbs on top, broil until bubbly, and serve with a big salad.
89.
Zucchini and Garlic Fusilli with Pistachios
Equally delicious is a combination of zucchini and yellow summer squash.
Boil salted water for the fusilli and cook it; meanwhile, slice two zucchinis into thin disks. Toast a handful of pistachios in a dry pan until just fragrant and turning golden; set aside. Cook some minced garlic in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil until fragrant, add the zucchini slices and two tablespoons of water, season with salt and pepper, and cook until soft. Drain the pasta, reserving the cooking water. Toss the zucchini and garlic mixture with the pasta, adding more olive oil and water if needed; add the toasted nuts and serve with grated Parmesan cheese and plenty of freshly ground pepper.
90.
Apple Cider and White Wine Slushy
Use any sweet white or sparkling wine you like.
In a blender or food processor, combine a cup of apple cider, a half cup of Riesling, and about a quarter cup of sugar. Add ice and pulse; continue adding ice and processing until the desired thickness is reached (about three cups total). Serve immediately with a sprinkle of nutmeg or a cinnamon stick or an orange slice if you like.
91.
Caramelized Pears with Mascarpone
If you have the time, let the pears cook longer to soften and darken more.
Slice a couple of pears into eight pieces each and toss with a few tablespoons of brown sugar. In a couple of tablespoons of butter, cook the pears, along with a handful of pecans, until they’re glossy on all sides, about four minutes. Whip together a half cup of mascarpone, a quarter cup of heavy cream, a tablespoon or two of brandy, and a tablespoon of sugar, until thick. Sprinkle the warm pears and pecans with a bit of allspice and serve them over the cream mixture.
92.
Pumpkin Crème Brûlee
It’s not a custard, but it’s good and serves a crowd of six to eight.
Turn on the broiler and put the rack about four inches from the heat. With an electric mixer or whisk, beat together a small can of pumpkin, eight ounces mascarpone, and a quarter cup of brown sugar; add a half teaspoon each of ground cinammon and ginger and a pinch each of allspice and salt. Spread evenly into an ovenproof baking dish or ramekins and sprinkle the top with a think layer of brown sugar. Broil for a few minutes, until the sugar melts, forming a crust. Serve immediately.
93.
Dark Chocolate Raspberry Pudding
As decadent as a fast dessert can be.
In a pan, heat two cups of cream with one-quarter cup of chopped dark chocolate. When the chocolate melts, about four minutes, add two tablespoons of cornstarch, two tablespoons of sugar, and pinch of salt. Stir until thickened, about four more minutes. Add a cup or more of fresh raspberries and mix to combine. Fill ramekins or pudding bowls with the chocolate mixture. Serve warm, topped with a few more raspberries and sliced almonds.
94.
Quick Lemon Upside-Down Cheesecake
The same flavors as a creamy cheesecake, but without the structure; serve in bowls.
Combine one cup each of softened cream cheese and ricotta with a teaspoon of vanilla, the zest of a lemon and its juice, and sugar or honey to taste; mix until evenly blended and smooth. Put the cream cheese mixture into a glass pie dish. In a food processor, combine one sleeve of graham crackers and a cup of walnuts; pulse until crushed and somewhat even. Top the cream cheese mixture with the crushed graham crackers and walnuts, chill if you have time, and serve.
95.
Pound Cake with Mascarpone and Marmalade
Also good with strawberry-rhubarb compote.
Spread mascarpone on slices of your favorite bakery pound cake and drizzle with warmed marmalade or honey.
96.
Chocolate Panini
You want excellent bread here, but not sourdough.
Sandwich bits or shavings of bittersweet chocolate between two thick slices of bread (like brioche, country-style French or Italian, or a sturdy whole grain). Butter both sides and grill in a hot skillet, using another pan on top with a couple of cans in it to weigh the sandwich down. When toasted, flip and cook the other side the same way. Meanwhile, thin a little strawberry or apricot jam with brandy, rum, or water. Cut the sandwich in quarters and serve hot, with the jam sauce on the side for dipping.
97.
Dessert French Toast
Called torrijas in Spain; the technique is slightly different from what you’re used to.
Heat about a half inch of olive oil in a large skillet until hot. Soak thick slices of good bread in a mixture of milk, sugar, and salt; then dip them in beaten eggs, let them drain a bit, and pan-fry until crisp on both sides in the hot oil. (Watch out—they will splatter a bit.) Serve with a sprinkle of cinnamon sugar, or drizzled with honey, syrup, fruit compote, or melted chocolate.
98.
Brown Sugar Apple in the Microwave
Pears work just as well.
Core four apples and stuff the centers with raisins, walnuts, brown sugar, and butter. Set upright in a microwave-safe dish, drizzle some port wine or brandy over each, partially cover and vent, and cook for about five minutes, rotating the apples as necessary and basting with the juices. Serve drizzled with their warm syrup and sprinkled with cinnamon.
99.
Apples à la Mode
Try sprinkling a little cinnamon over the hot apples.
Peel and core four apples and cut them into quarter-inch slices. In a few tablespoons of butter, cook the apples for about four minutes; add about a quarter cup of calvados and sprinkle with brown sugar. When the apples have softened and browned, turn up the heat and reduce the liquid to a syrup. Serve over vanilla ice cream.
100.
Caramel Fondue
Be careful with the sugar—it goes from amber to brown very quickly. And it’s hot.
In a pan, heat a cup of sugar with two tablespoons of water; cook until the sugar dissolves, swirling the pan occasionally. When the sugar turns amber, add six tablespoons of butter and carefully whisk until the butter melts. Remove the pan from the heat, add a half cup of cream, and whisk until smooth. Put the sauce in a bowl and serve with slices of apples, pears, or bananas, or with whole dried fruit for dipping.
101.
Sweet Couscous with Dried Fruit
Especially nice made with whole wheat couscous.
Bring three cups of water to a boil. When it does, stir in two cups of couscous, a handful of dried cherries, a pat of butter, and a drizzle of honey. Cover, remove from the heat, and let steep for five minutes or so (a little more for whole wheat couscous). Add some chopped cashews, chocolate chunks, or grated coconut (or all three!); fluff with a fork and serve warm.